ianmajor

Things are progressing nicely and I am currently on the 'smart' plans. I wont upload the keel/false keel parts plan as that is quite simple and thus not that exciting. Here though is the smart sheer plan. I have also finally worked out how to get a viewable image out of turbocad. Save as a pdf. Open in pdf reader and screenshot it..
 

 
Next week I plan on starting on the framing plan.
 
Joss

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 175– Head Continued
Posted 1/29/13

In the first picture the rail to support the grating bars on the starboard side is being glued into place with some improvised clamping. The carling and three grating bars are installed on the port side.



 
Since the last post, I had to revise the grating areas. The center cross piece that defines the forward end of these sections was too far aft and would have interfered with the gammoning – a little drafting glitch – now corrected.

The next picture shows all the gratings completed and the shafts for the two forward “seats of ease” installed through openings in the grating.


 
The next picture shows the starboard false rail pinned in place.


 
The seats have been added to the tops of the square shafts. The aft seat on the starboard side has been fitted and is just visible above the back of the false rail.

The next picture shows both false rails and all the seats installed.



 
The aft seats give some additional support to the fragile tops of the false rails. This can be seen more clearly in the next picture.

 

 
The figure is still loose in this picture. She makes appearances at various times in these pictures.

The next picture shows the hull inverted for work on the head timber facings and the wash cants.



 
In this picture the curved, molded facing pieces have been installed on the head timbers. The wash cants are also installed. I was very happy to have the bunker over the wheel for this upside down work.

The next picture shows the current state from dead ahead.



 
These pictures are quite useful for finding little errors of alignment or worse – much better than viewing while bent over at an angle. I was pretty satisfied with the symmetry.

The last picture shows the whole model at this stage on a freshly painted shipway - re surfaced with a new copy of the plan.



 
The work on the head is essentially finished at this stage except for a trailboard, some bolting and the small scrolls just behind the feet of the figure. What next? Gun doors? Deadeyes and chains? Finishing the unplanked port side? Haven’t decided yet.


Ed

Thanks Aldo.
 
Completing Great Cabin
 
To complete the work in the Great Cabin the Lockers received two lids and a couple of fill-in pieces :
 

 
Next I fitted four planks to the Lower and Upper Inner Counters :
 

 
A Sill finished off the top of the planking, and Cover Timbers were fitted between the Lights over the framing :
 

 

 
  Danny

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 173– Head Continued – Rails and Knees
Posted 1/22/13
In the last part I showed the maquette that was used to model the starboard cathead supporter – which I erroneously called the cathead knee. The first picture shows the roughed out final version made based on the maquette – before molding the beads on its outboard face.

 
In this picture the rail and the supporter are still loose. The next picture shows the supporter and the cathead knee installed.

]

Both head rails are installed in this picture, but the figure is still loose. The supporter has been molded and installed. The next picture shows the bolster and the bolting of the two head rails to the lacing and hair brackets.


 
Bolts in the head rail joints have also been installed. The next picture shows the current state of the bow.



 
All the parts shown are now glued and bolted into place. The next picture shows more of the bow with the figure positioned.


 
The continuation of the shear rails on both sides have been installed forward of the cathead. The forward bits of the forecastle rails have yet to be installed. The next picture from a lower angle shows the relationship between the curves of the head rail and the upper cheek more clearly.



 
The cathead supporter ends somewhat awkwardly at the bolster. As I mentioned in an earlier post, this is due to the revision in the original draft to add the bridle port and the resulting displacement of the cathead further forward. The next picture shows the opposite side.


 
All the planking necessary to mount the head structure has been installed, bolted and treenailed. The trailboard is not yet installed. The lower cheek is being glued in this picture. As I mentioned earlier, there are still small bits of scroll to be made and fitted to the forward ends of the lower cheeks. The wash cants also need to be made and installed under the lower cheek. The last picture shows the current state from directly forward.


 
The figure is pretty well finished and polished. I still need to touch up the eyes – but just a bit.

The next step will be to make and install the six head timbers and the lower rails - another fun job.


Ed

Mike,
 
My pleasure. The discussion has greatly increased my knowledge as well. Any further info you get would be gratefully received.
 
Re my being brave - a case of fool's rush in...........perhaps.

Mike,
 
If you look closely at the NMM Lyme plan (zoom in as much as possible) you will see the hidden detail such as decks, companionway ladders etc marked faintly in red. The quarter deck is shown in line with the upper part of the main mast dead eyes and lower down in relation to the mizzen dead eyes. The red lines for the quarter deck end behind the foremost main mast dead eye. The gallows are also shown in red just ahead of the main mast. The quarter deck does not reach this far. The line of the upper deck can be seen in red just below the main gun ports.
 
There are other pointers that make me believe the Corel deck layout is inaccurate/fanciful.
 
1) The pump being positioned well aft up on the quarter deck. Would the ships designers place a pump at the highest point on the decks well aft of the lowest part of the hull where the bulk of the bilge water would lie? The pump mechanism and pipe in this position would pass through the main cabin. It would also get in the way of commanding the ship.
2) The position of the stove flue to one side of the foredeck. I am sure the designers would not put a heavy item like that to one side of the keel line (other heavy items like cannon are in balancing pairs each side of the keel line). Besides having the stove to one side on a fairly small ship would interfere with the operation of the cannon in that area.   
 
As my wife would say - all good fun so long as no-one loses an eye.

I have been preparing plans for the major surgery. Attached are some photographs with paper cut outs from the plans placed on the model to indicate the proposed new waist shape. I took the detail from Chuck's Winchelsea plans scaled down to 1:75 then slightly foreshortened (Unicorn was a smaller ship). These were altered with real cut and paste involving paper, scissors and glue. Hope Chuck doesn't mind my doing this - don't want to get into his bad books!
 
I post these now to invite any comment or views you may have - other than my insanity which is a given.
 
The cut lines will follow existing planking edges.
 
Two areas of concern.
 
1) From the second photo you will note the main mast will be moved forward by about half its diameter. In its original position and with chain pumps added it would crowd into the new companion way. Currently the leading shrouds would line up with the vertical centre of the mast. The new position would line them up with a tangent across the rear of the mast. I have seen plans with both of these alignments. This would be offset somewhat by a backwards rake of the mast by a few degrees as per the prototype.
 
2) The wider waist could put the plywood deck supports on view. They will need some work.
 
Photo 1 the current waist area.
 

 
Photo 2 shows a cut out from the plan showing the proposed new waist.
 

 
Photo 3 shows how the whole deck area would look with new shape waist. (This photo features my right foot since I stood on one of our chairs to take it.  )
 

 
Any comment or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
In the meantime I need to make some more deck fittings.
 
Ian M.   

Well I learned a bit of French today - didn't realize Licorne was french for Unicorn
 
I haven't done as much research as Ian on the Corel kit, but I think he is right that the kit is based on the British 1748 vessel.  For me, like Ian, I initially came into the hobby to just build nice kits, and not really get into all the research and accuracy stuff.  After doing a little research on the Badger for sail plans and the like, I'm actually excited to research the Unicorn and modify the kit.  I plan to order the AOTS Pandora book and will see if I can get any ideas from it.  Right now, besides scratching the stern galleries and transom area, I'm thinking about making some modification to the number/type of guns, as well the waist area like Ian is planning to do.  I'd also like to explore whether it's feasible to add a small boat or two.  I'm not looking for perfect historical accuracy (which would probably be guesswork anyway), but get to what I would think would be a somewhat reasonable design of such a vessel.
 
Ian, thanks for your thoughts on the portholes and line of the quarter deck.  Very interesting stuff.  I am including the Lyme plans from RMG below.
 
Ian, I have the Chapelle book which has plans for the Lyme class.  The plans are not very clear (or large), but it looked like the ladder placement to get to the waist area was fairly close to the center line of the ship.  I don't know if that is evidence that the waist was indeed narrow as per the Corel plans, but just wanted to throw that out there.  I didn't have much of a chance last night to study the plans, but will try to do so tonight and report back.
 
I went back and added pictures to the various posts of this thread since this has turned into a compilation of resources for the Unicorn.  Let's hope that MSW 2.0 doesn't crash 

Mike,
 
I think Peter has covered the cannon. I have bought some Caldercraft swivel guns. They are actually 1:64 scale so slightly too long (by about 2mm too long). They are next on my construction plan so I will let you know how they work out.

Mike,
 
Some of the references that I used are in my 4th posting in the Unicorn log.
 
I hope you start a log on your Unicorn soon. I would be interested in seeing some photos of the transom, gun carriage and other components before construction starts. 
 
The only paint on my ship is around the metal/plastic moldings so I can't comment on paint schemes. However if you look at Peter Visser's Unicorn in the gallery (link further back up this thread) you will see an example of a model that has been painted. I am sure if you do start a log Peter will look in and offer advice (he is very helpful and supportive).
 
There was another Unicorn build log which was lost with MSW 1.0 from which I have a few photos. I would like to credit the builder but unfortunately I don't know his name or if he is still a member. His log showed construction of the hull. (If you recognize the build as yours, perhaps we can prevail upon you to publish other photos of the build.    ) This example was painted around the deck areas but mainly used the natural colour of the supplied woods externally.
 
Here are some photos taken from that log.
 

 
 
 

Oh dear.
 
Oh well here is more then. The model in the photo is very well executed and looks a real treat. I notice the date of 1762 on the plate!
 
I have compared its rigging with the Corel instructions and it appears that it is as per the instructions. There appear to be some very basic additional running rigging to fit the sails. I don't think the mizzen mast would have had the lower (square) sail. This model is certainly good for a guideline if you go down the "sail" route.
 
The thing that spoils it for me are the dreadful Corel flags.

Ian - not sure if you have a used book online vendor, but I've managed to track down a number of used books for reference for relatively low cost.  In the US, for example, we have Abebooks.com, which functions similarly to a consortium of used book dealers that post their books for sale in a common forum.

Mike,
 
Nice idea. The running rigging as per the Corel instructions does not include the parts to handle the sails. Peter rigged his Unicorn using info from Lennarth Petersson's book "Rigging Period Ship Models" which gives a better basis to fit sails. I was going to get the Lees book for rigging, but the price tag frightened me. 
 
If you do fit sails it will look very impressive.

The model was built at the level of beams. On margin planks, small pieces of wood were placed, giving the view of components of frames. By building the gunwale and the counter at the prow, the hull took its proper shape. Some wooden supporting constructions, were also made in prow and stern.  





 
Thanks
 

I followed the plans of the hull of a real boat , and the method of planking on bulkheads. Plywood was used for the keel and frames and beechwood for all the external wooden parts. I also followed the traditional way of planking.  

I've made custom decals for several years and, for the most part all, the advice here is spot on...
But what I can't emphasize enough is for the surface to be absolutely smooth.  Applying several thin coats of clear gloss  with an airbrush is the best way.
 
Several thin coats will build up the surface without "globbing it up."
 
Once the decal is in place and you apply the SolvaSet (setting solution)  DO NOT TOUCH IT... and keep the surface flat...  
As the Solvaset  begins to attack the clear film backing, the decal will get all  shrivelly and krinkly..
Again, this is normal   DO NOT TOUCH IT...
 
When the solvent evaporates, the decal will smooth out and conform to a the surface contours, looking like its painted on..  
 
wait about 24hrs   before proceeding  ( this is the hard part!!!!)
 
Then once everything has dried,  apply several more thin coats of clear gloss... this will help seal the finish..
Finally, apply a thin coat of matte to kill the shine.  and you're done..
 
 
 
see attached photos
  Doing this on a Black surface is the hardest: see Mercury capsule...
 
 
 

Chris,
 
I applaud your sentiment. New technology is good for churning out repetitive items but to my eyes it all comes out cold, efficient and lifeless. It is the small variations that are produced by the craftsmen which produce the warmth and life around models. The same applies to music - compare a studio pre-recorded concert with "lip synching" artist(?) with a genuine live performance - high tech versus real talent - I know which I prefer.

Chris,
 
I applaud your sentiment. New technology is good for churning out repetitive items but to my eyes it all comes out cold, efficient and lifeless. It is the small variations that are produced by the craftsmen which produce the warmth and life around models. The same applies to music - compare a studio pre-recorded concert with "lip synching" artist(?) with a genuine live performance - high tech versus real talent - I know which I prefer.

Urb,
 
Go for it!   
 
Why not start a build log yourself and raise the flag for Yorkshire?  I think MSW would benefit from a more card build logs.
 
Have you seen the Royal Caroline by Doris? If not look at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/854-royal-caroline-by-doris-card-1749-140/page-1 and prepare to have your mind blown. She demonstrates that card is no second class modeling medium.
 
Another of my favourites is Revenge by Firdajan at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2059-revenge-by-firdajan-shipyard-card-1577-196/page-1.
 
Looking forward to your input.

Chris,
 
I applaud your sentiment. New technology is good for churning out repetitive items but to my eyes it all comes out cold, efficient and lifeless. It is the small variations that are produced by the craftsmen which produce the warmth and life around models. The same applies to music - compare a studio pre-recorded concert with "lip synching" artist(?) with a genuine live performance - high tech versus real talent - I know which I prefer.

Main mast...
Main topsail...
Main topmast...
Some blocks...

I think those are corelware for cooking, Bill. I haven't seen any kits for those!

Mike,
 
I have not seen this one before. The workmanship is very good. In deed it looks to have no modifications. There are extra details like crew and barrels.
 
The transom detail is the later variant as per your instance of the kit. The flags are the post 1801 version as supplied with the kit ie the union flag has red diagonals which is the version post unification of Ireland. The flags that were supplied with my ancient kit were poor. Apart from being wrong period, the red diagonal lines were on the centre line of the white diagonals rather than being correctly offset. Something else to be replaced in the kit.

-Cont'-
 
After the poop deck is done, I can finally glue everything on deck in place. Since I took out my bombard shots for photo shooting last time and did not seal them back, they have already rusted.

To solve it, I 're-blacken' them using my metal blackener. Surprisingly, it gave a better result! The surface became rougher, instead of shiny looks before! 


Bombard Shot After Re-blackening
 
To give a darker view, I coated with a layer of tyre shine.
 

Coated with Tyre Shine

And when I'm too bored...   
My 'Bomb-bell-shots Droid'... weirdo name.. LOL


'Bomb-bell-shots Droid'

Pin racks are on too.


Pin Racks On
 
Leftover shots stacked up. 

Leftover Shots Stacked Up
 
Well, the manual doesn't design ladders to the poop deck from the quarter, but I think it's better to have. Since I don't have enough pre-cut ladder left, I glued the other side directly on the bulwark. Like this: 


2 Ladders Added 
 
Now, with all the tritium vials left unused, I really have to come up with more ideas to utilise them! Since I've 2 bigger ones (1.5mm * 12mm), I will use one of them as poop deck lamp.

Using back the same technique as I did last time on smaller lamps, I've came up with this. 


Poop Lamp Design
 
And sprayed it to gold colour.
 

Completed Lamp

In position. 
Here's a good comparison on the brightness of a normal LED light and tritium vial. In light presence condition, you just can't see the tritium light. It's just a luminant body after all.


Lamp In Position


Stern View

Anyway, it looks good at night! And for 25 years!! 

 
 
-End of Day 30-

Making Light Frames
 
To make the Light Frames themselves I cut a channel using my Byrnes saw. This is 1.5mm wide by 1.0mm thick, and has a 0.5mm rebate in the middle to hold the acrylic "glass" which is 0.48mm thick :
 


 
To make the corners I cut the rebate out of one section, leaving it slightly long - this will be sanded back when it is completed :
 


 
I just made this piece up as a demonstration. I'll make a proper jig to assemble the pieces later.
 
  Danny