ianmajor

Cog: No, I use acrylic paint, so there are no issues. I still stretch the paper as if doing watercolour, though!
 
Alan: Whatever gives you the impression that I make no misteaks?
 
I repainted the decorative work to the correct length, cut the pieces out and glued them to the model. The cut edges are not an issue here, as they are hidden by mouldings top and bottom, and also overlapped at the ends.
 
The friezes installed, I then cut, shaped and painted the planksheer rails above the decorative work and glued these to the model. The coach is still removable at this point, so giving a clear field of operation.
 
Aft of the coach is another thwart with what appear to be mooring posts attached. These are next on the list.

Igor,
 
That is utterly amazing. I don't know how you do it.

A little progress was made at the pump, the hardest part is still to come. I want to have the ability to have a "working" pump, driven by a small motor, so I cannot solder all parts. 
 
Pistons with basic rods

 
"A-Beam" before soldering. It is enough to hold the parts with pins, no extra form needed.

 
Both Beams soldered, they wil carry the pump lever, and one side wall also fixed.

 
Thank you all for watching,
Regards
Gerhard
 
 
 

Hello once more
Thank you all for the (so many) likes!
 
The first steps to the decks pump are made, the center of the handles, the pistons, and the cylinders with their case are cut from different brass material.
The center of the handle bar


 
The pistons before soldering

 
Cylinders soldered to the basic case, smaller parts in the foreground


 
Regards
Gerhard
 
 
 

Igor,
 
That is utterly amazing. I don't know how you do it.

Igor,
 
That is utterly amazing. I don't know how you do it.

The next update: second pair the davits, arch-arc of the towing device, marking and drilling of holes for the pins, on which will mounted the deck components and the continuation of work on the masts.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the checking of the masts
 
 

 

 

Thank you all for the comments and Likes .
 
I've moved to the External Planking of the Port side, as one of the next steps on the inside is fitting the Port Liners which need to be done after the external planking goes on.
 
First up is the Wales, which are 4 1/2" thick (real size). The upper strake is parallel while the two lower strakes are in "Top and Butt" configuration. I've made them from Ebony.
 
The smudges on the wales are from water, as I'd just fitted them and cleaned off the excess glue. I've sanded a very slight bevel on the edges to make them stand out a bit better. The top and bottom strakes have a significant bevel where they meet up with the thinner strakes above and below :
 

 

 
  Danny

Glenn,
 
Fabulous. A piece of machinery that I would be mesmerised by when watching it turning over slowly.

John and Mike, thanks for your replies.
 
John looking at your suggestion I could push the "Option 1" front forward. I was looking to keep the distance between the front support and the rear scroll to be the same as the distance between the two scrolls. As you point out that is not the case with the NMM 6th rate model so pushing it forward should do the trick.
 
An interesting thing about the NMM model is that it is not the usual Admiralty type. The NMM notes say that it is ballasted with a lead keel suggesting that it is a sailing model.
 
I look forward to seeing how you get on with your fresh supply of pear wood. I love the smell of wood freshly cut from fruit trees. Takes me back to my Father's plum orchard.
 
Looking back at the swivel posts I thought you might be interested in how I "turned" the circular top part. I made a rose bit to do this. They are not hard to produce, only needing a drill press, bits, files and some mild still rod to make.
 
Below are some photos of how I did it. The first four are of an experimental one for use in a holder but show the basic process.
 
I had a 2cm piece of 10mm diameter mild steel to hand for this. I filed the ends square then drilled deeply the centre of the end. The diameter of this hole determines the diameter of (in this case) the end of the post.
 

 
I then drilled the centre of the other end with a larger bit most of the way through leaving a couple of mm's length of the smaller diameter hole. This is to stop the work binding in the hole particularly if using a rose bit to produce dowling.
 

 
I then used a fine blade saw to cut a shallow cross on the small diameter hole end. The middle of the cross being the centre of the hole. This was to act as a guide to filing.
 
Next I used a permanent marker to blue the end. Then with the rod in the vice with the small hole upper most and I filed the ends with the file at the angle shown in the next photo. The file was kept to the right of each saw cut.
 

 
I continued filing each face until the blueing between the file mark and the next saw cut just disappears. The next photo shows two faces approaching this point.
 

 
When all four faces have been treated this way you are ready to go. Here is the one I used on the posts.
 

 
The way I used it was first to cut around the post, using a knife, at the point where the round part of the post meets the square part - this acts as a stop cut. I bevelled the end of the post very slightly then simply used the rose bit like a pencil sharpener. (Cue gasps of horror from the guys who do things properly). 
 
Actually, when I get around to it I am going to make a holder for my rose bits to go on to the tool post of my lathe. I will be able to make fairly long lengths of brass and wood doweling in a variety of sizes.
 
Rose bits have been around a very long time. Another example of their use in MSW can found in <Garward's Montanes log> . There he makes the end of the cannon axles by putting the rose bit in the lathe chuck and mounting the axle in the tool post.
 
Unless disaster strikes I should have a set of 26 rail supports machined up by tomorrow - that or a pile of splinters.

Mike/Mark, again thanks for the input.   I have to admit I have put off this part of the modification for some time. I have been debating with myself at length about the best compromise.   Mike, you are right about the rail in option 1 ending shy of the leading edge of the quarter deck (drat, I thought no-one would notice), this is illustrated in the two top views below. I am now hooked on using 3D modelling rather than scraps of paper for my modification plans.   Option 1 top view
  Option 2 top view
  I gazed long and hard at the various plans. I had made the end of the bulwarks as per the Corel plan. This resulted in the two scrolls at the fore end of the bulwarks being very close together when compared with other plans/models. Below is an extract from the Corel plan to illustrate this. The Corel deck follows the line of the trim marked by the red arrow. The unmodified quarter deck front edge is indicated by the blue arrow.     Now back to the wood cutting........   Compare this with the Chapman diagram on which the Corel kit purports to be based. Below is an extract from that plan. The vertical position of the quarter deck is marked by dotted lines. My interpretation is that the pair of lines marked by the red arrow show the thickness of the deck planking and its height along the centre line of the ship. The single dotted line marked by blue arrow is the height of the deck at the bulwarks. I measured up and the solid bulwark is about 2'6" above the deck - which seems low to me. There is no indication of a rail which I believe there should have been. It is also unclear exactly where the leading edge of the quarter deck actually is - it sort of peters out in the middle of the main mast. In the original of this plan Chapman has another ship alongside where these details are more clearly set out.     Next is an extract of the Lyme plan showing leading edge of the quarter deck indicated by the red arrow. This shows the open rail terminating a roughly the same point.     The above three make an interesting comparison.   When in doubt, in these circumstances I consult Chuck's Winchelsea or in this case look at photos of the Winchelsea model held by the NMM. Below is an extract from one of the NMM photos the original can be found <here>  . Although the rail(s) are more complex than my offering a close look reveals that the high rail stops short of the leading edge of the quarter deck. So there is a precedent to my having a "short" rail - well at least that is my excuse.         Now - back to the wood cutting.......  ​

I am making steady (slow you may say) progress on the open rails. I have fitted the 8 swivel posts around the quarter deck.     For the rail I had bought some 5x2mm beech strip which would make it the same width as the cap. Looking at BE's <Pegasus>  and Dan Vadas' <Vulture>  I realised the rail should actually be narrower. So I ripped it down to 3x2mm.   Since the gap twixt cap and rail would not be as wide as Pegasus/Vulture I looked at other models for inspiration on supports and for the shape of the ends. The nearest was a contemporary model of a 24 gun sloop at the NMM which I am working towards. Below is an extract from a MNN photo the full version can be seen <here> .     I cut mortices in the rail to accommodate the swivel posts and had a trial fitting. To spport the rail at the rear I have fitted a length of 2x2mm beech stained black on top of the cap.     Looking at the rear of the rail in the photo I think I could attempt a tafferail which would have to sit on top of the quarter rails. If I go this route it will make it easier to mount a stern lantern.   The question then comes up about the shape of the leading end of the rail.   I have been following thibaultron's log on "going From a 2D Drawing to a 3D Printed Part Tutorial" <here> which inspired me to have a crack at using Sketchup to look at the rail options.   After a couple of evenings playing around I came up with the following two 3D plans. The first is in the style of the 1740 24 gun sloop, the second is in the style of a reduced version of the Pegasus/Vulture rail.   I think I am biased towards the first one. Any views on this? My Sketchup rendition is a bit ropey but not too bad for a first effort.  
  My wife watching me using Sketchup for the first time reminded me that I had sworn to turn my back on technology during retirement. As a result she says my epitaph will include the phrase "A Failed Luddite". I gave me such a severe attack of the giggles that any further work that evening was abandoned.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 158 –Deadeye Chain Plates
 
The deadeye chains (aka chain plates) on ships of this period were iron bar forged at each end with holes to take bolts.  I made these about 1” thick and 2 ½” in width, certainly stronger than the 11” shrouds.  These could have been made by the method used in the last post for the backing plates, namely by soldering tube at the end of a plate then slicing them off.  This would involve a lot of metal sawing and a lot of material wastage on these long pieces.  Also since the lower ends of these are bolted under the backing plates the rounding of the bolt eye need not be absolutely perfect.  The first picture shows the progression followed in forming these after the copper strips were cut to approximate width.
 

 
I used a paper cutter to cut the strips then straightened out the curls by stretching the strips in a vise as was done many months ago with the iron hull strapping.  Pulling these also hardens them, though that hardness is soon lost when they are annealed under the soldering torch.  The strip at the top has been drilled for the lower bolt.  In the center piece the lower eye has been roughly shaped.  At the bottom is the finished piece with its width reduced to the 2 ½” (.035” actual).
 
Before these parts could be sized and assembled with the deadeyes, the length of each chain had to be determined.  The next picture shows the positions of the chains on both starboard main channels being set out with the aid of a string taped at the height of the top on a dummy main mast.
 

 
Notches for the chain plates were then filed out and each plate fitted as shown in the next picture.
 

 
On this channel I set the backing links first, then pinned the chain plate at the bottom, bent the angle at the lower channel as shown. The top edge of the top channel was then marked on the plate, the plate removed and then trimmed to size.  The top of each of these was then crimped with pliers to make flat fore and aft surfaces to seat the iron deadeye straps.  In the next picture one of these straps has been formed around a 16” shroud deadeye.
 

 
The copper wire was wrapped around then crimped at the bottom.  The ends were then filed off square and then flattened with pliers.  On the ship these were bolted through the tops of the chain plates just above the channel.  I entertained the idea of bolting these until confronted with the small size – too small to drill – at least for me.  The next picture shows a strap and chain plate assembly after forming the chain at its position on the fore channel and before silver soldering the pieces together.
 

 
The next picture shows the pieces being soldered using a small propane torch.
 

 
Copper phosphorus solder was used because it blackens well with the liver of sulfur that I use to blacken the copper.  After soldering, these were dropped into a Sparex® solution.  After rinsing the deadeyes were fitted into the ring as shown in the next picture.
 

 
This entire assembly was then dipped in liver of sulfur solution to blacken the copper. 
 
The next picture shows the fore channel with the lower shroud deadeyes installed. 
 

 
These are bolted (nailed) into the 6” thick wale planking with the top bolts in the uppermost wale strake.  All the chains are shown being restrained from unruly behavior by bits of masking tape.  The smaller chain plate forward of the last shroud chain will anchor the eyebolt for the standing end of the upper topsail halyard.  This lighter duty chain has no backing plate and was made from 20-gauge copper wire flattened a bit.  I may replace this with a rectangular bar – like the others but smaller.
 
 The channel capping rails will be added after the remaining chains for other rigging are fitted.  When that is done all the chain plates will be straightened. At present the soft annealed copper on these is a bit deformed from handling. The deadeyes will be aligned neatly at the top later when the ship is rigged.  The last picture shows the main channel after fitting of the six lower shroud chains.
 

 
Ed

Glenn,
 
Fabulous. A piece of machinery that I would be mesmerised by when watching it turning over slowly.

A small update with some progress made on the yards.  The metal block you see is a jewellers block that allows a clean cut at 90, 45 or 60 degrees for round or square material; this has been quite handy for these very small bits.
 
The design for these yard arm iron work is for the bent piece to slip over the end then the rings are slid over that.  I used a small jewellers anvil to splay some brass tube to get the angled inner diameter before slicing off the thin rings.
 
Some of the yards have had some of the additional fittings/furniture added but still need to be cleaned up and stained.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
   

Quarter Deck
 
 
Thanks Bob and Elijah,
 
First some last details before fitting the quarterdeck: the Skid Beam Assembly and the Fore Brace Bitt Assembly.
First the Skid Beams: I varnished the beams dark brown (Wenge), and used matt black (Revell) for the frame. This black kills the wood, but it helped to finish with a matt transparent varnish, which brings some life back.
 
 
 
 


The quarterdeck bitt pins have 3 sheaves, and the head ends are covered with zinc (I guess).
 



In the model I simulated reality as much as possible with a brass platelet on the head ends, finished with matt, transparent varnish, and I added 2 sheaves per pin (2 and 4 mm). On the quarterdeck the pin should have 3 sheaves. The manual does not mention them and there is only room for 2. After long thinking about the option of thickening the pin, I have decided to fit 2 sheaves. Not 100% true to reality, but visually OK and fairly realistic. The head ends were primed with MetalPrimer, then painted with metal paint and finished with matt, transparent varnish.
 
 


Finally a dry fit of the quarterdeck:
 
 

 

Thanks for the comments and the "likes"...
 
Here's the rudder ready to hang.   Once the cudgeons are on the hull, I'll add the rudder coat and mount it.  I'll probably pin it to the sternpost from the inside of the hull just to keep it in place as I'll be flipping the hull over a few more times before cutting it loose and mounting it to a cradle.
 
I made a judgement call after testing on some scrap about the bolts.  Not going to happen.  If the bolts are visible, they're oversize by an order of magnitude.  If' they're just the right size, they're invisible.  
 
I also did some testing to compare Jax Black to Birchwood Casey Black.  Not much difference except maybe the Birchwood Casey is a bit blacker and also seems to cover silver solder better.
 
Been a busy of testing this stuff.  
 
Ok.. pictures.....
 
First piccy shows the old and the new together.  I'm happier with the new and the old is hitting the scrap box.   The second pic has a dummy sternpost next to it.  I've got a big smile on that one.  
 

 

Sometimes research is like a big puzzle, everyone can bring in a piece and suddenly one gets a complete new picture :-)
 
Happend in our german forum, I was in resaerch of a detail on the poop railing and came out with something completely different but nice and surprising. Being pointed from two different friends towards one detail, once to be seen on the contemporary 1765 model of the Vic and once on a Turner sketch after Trafalgar, one could make out something that was most possibly not a mere decoration frieze but a helm indicator!
 
And on we went immediately.
    The build was rather simple, a simple slide for an indicator moved by some thin rope to the left and to the right.   The pointer was bit itzy bitzy teeny weeny, a 0,3 mm drill into som 0,6 plastic ...     ... and the test assembly ...         ... and on my tryout model on location :-)     Looks smart and ingenious, learnt something new, added a nice detail to all things Victory and beyond and I am happy.   Hope you are too :-)   Cheers, Dr. dafi

The bulk of the rigging is now done. Lots of clean up to do particularly where the stays meet the deck, but overall it's the best I can do. I now have to add the aerials. I have used two diameter rigging line, the smallest the size of a human hair and just as hard to use but comes up OK.

Glenn,
 
Fabulous. A piece of machinery that I would be mesmerised by when watching it turning over slowly.

Glenn,
 
Fabulous. A piece of machinery that I would be mesmerised by when watching it turning over slowly.

Glenn,
 
Fabulous. A piece of machinery that I would be mesmerised by when watching it turning over slowly.

Cheers for the comments guys, ive just passed my 2nd year, yes already, I have not done much really since the new year, My drone building hobby has taken over a bit. I have just resumed my spars, three now completed

This week I nearly completed the feedwater pump.  We know the type of pump and location from a post that is bolted into the cylinder timbers at the after end of the crosshead slide.  A linkage to the crosshead would have moved a lever that activated two pumps.  A low pressure pump (aft side of post) would have drawn water through the side of the vessel somewhat below the waterline and pushed it into the preheater (shroud around steam exhaust).  A more heavily constructed high pressure pump then pulled the water from the preheater and delivered it to the boilers.
 
Pumo lever and linkage.

 

 
 
Support posts for the pump.  I cut these a little long and the cross piece at the top is only temporary.  The top end will be cut off at the upper deck and fastened to the upper deck beams. The plates on the sides of the post will guide the reach rods.

 
Pump lever linked to cross head.  Fitting the shroud around the steam exhaust.

 

 
Determining the run of the reach rods and plumbing.  With the water lines and reach rods it gets pretty busy in this area.  I didn't quite get it all together and will have till next week to finish.

 
The low pressure pump is still a little too tall but I left it in to give an idea about the whole set-up.