The Gimps Chimp

Hi Penfold, They're also looking good to me, you've done a good job there I know there's talk about the position of tholes and seats which are all valid and interesting but as long as it looks okay and you're happy with the result that's all that counts. On my model I've done quite a few things which may not be 100% accurate but they look okay to me. When members point out inaccuracies I try to learn from them and take it forward into my next build. Keep learning and keep up the excellent work! Chimp

Hi Capella, I see your concern here. I also had issues with my first planking if you look at my build log. To me, it looks like some of those planks don't appear to be sitting flat on the first bulkhead. As you get the planks closer to the bow not only do they bend in towards the bow (vertical plane) but they also start to roll over in the horizontal plane. A couple of the planks appear to remain vertical. You could just use plenty of filler and sand it all to shape and that does generally work well for the first planking. My concern would be that there may be some points where the inside of one plank sticks out further than the outside of an adjacent plank. This could result in you sanding through an entire plank when trying to get the high-points down. If you decide to go with the fill and sand method I would glue in thin slithers of wood between the planks where you have gaps to ensure there is plenty of wood there to provide strength to the structure. Alternatively if you cut out the offending planks and reset them flat on the bulkheads that may solve your problem. Don't worry about running short of the planks as I had enough to make two models. Hope I've managed to explain my thoughts here. It was clear in my mind what I was trying to say but maybe it didn't come out that well. (feel free to ask me to explain further) Chimp

Hi Capella, When I did my first planking on the Beagle it looked absolutely appalling. However, by the time I had filled and sanded the hull it didn't look too bad and I was quite happy with it. My advice would be to allow the planks to follow a natural path without applying too much force to make it fit. Looking at the last photo of your post I would say the top plank looks to be in the correct position. (maybe I've misunderstood your question) Chimp

Hi Capella, I didn't use the nails provided in the kit but preferred to use the clamp technique using small bulldog clips on the bulkhead and/or removeable noticeboard pins. Not sure if the supplied nails should be left in or removed. If they're left in then sanding down the planks once finished is very difficult. If they are to be removed then they shouldn't be pushed fully home otherwise it will be very difficult to pull them out once finished. Chimp

Hi Capella, Not sure if you've seen this very informative document: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf I would highly recommend it. I must admit I haven't been able to practice all of it yet but it's my plan to do so on my next build. Chimp

How about cutting a new one to fit from some waste wood? Chimp

Hi Capella, You're right in that it's difficult to see the difference but maybe the photo below will help. Your build is coming along great, keep up the good work Chimp

Hi Rob, Wow, that's a long list! Not wanting to make the list any longer but have you considered the rope? I see that you now get wooden blocks, deadeyes and belaying pins so hopefully the quality of the kit parts are being improved. If so, then maybe the quality of the supplied rope has improved. The rope I was supplied was poor so I decided to make my own which I very much enjoyed doing. Now I don't worry about being frugal with the rope I use You look to have made a fantastic start! I'm following your build log with interest. Chimp

Hi Capella, I've just measured the wood I had in the kit for the deck planking, it measured 0.5 x 5 x 600. In the parts list it mentions Sycamore, Lime wood and Sapele having a 0.5 x 5 cross-section. Now I can't remember three types, only two types - one dark and one light. Having said that it was quite some time ago now so may have been three Over the time of building this kit I have developed a love/hate relationship with the instructions (more hate than love dare I say). The build logs on this site are a fantastic source of information to supplement the instructions and are a good way to rationalise the instructions. Chimp

Hi Allan, You're absolutely right in what you say. However, when I did mine I wasn't aware of this and just followed the instructions. I don't believe there is any camber included on the bulkheads in the kit and are made flat. Of course you could modify the bulkheads to include a camber. Looking at the AotS for the Beagle, there doesn't appear to be much of a camber, and I would say much less than 9 inches. As with all these things in scale modelling, how far do you go? I must admit there has been so much about this kit which I've found frustrating but have learnt to accept it for what it is and use it as a learning process to try and hone my skills. As with any kit, it's a starting point. We are free to change any aspect of the kit we so choose to. I suppose the ultimate is to scratch build, but my skills are a long way from considering that unfortunately. As I said above, how far do you go? Chimp

Hi Capella, I think the sequence you are suggesting makes sense. From memory I recall my sequence being very similar: 1) Dry-fit bulkheads 2) Dry-fit UN-PLANKED deck 3) Glue bulkheads to keel 4) Plank deck 5) Glue PLANKED deck to bulkheads To be honest It amounts to the same thing. What I think is important is that you plank the deck before gluing it to the bulkheads. It will be so much easier to plank the deck on a flat surface rather than trying to plank it after it's glued to the keel. Chimp

Hi Capella, Many thanks for the words of encouragement. I'm currently a bit bogged down with other things and have lost my way a little with the build. I found the rigging of the masts became a little onerous with conflicting and confusing instructions. My intention is to restart the build very soon (New year and all that...). I'm hoping to get it finished soon as I have another kit waiting to go and I don't want to have two kits on the go at the same time. I'll be watching your build log with much interest Chimp

Hi Dean, your plans look like an Occre kit, how are you getting on with them? I find they can be a bit of a challenge at times. Chimp

Hi Dean, on that same sheet you should have 3 more views labelled A, B and C. They will be what you see when looking from the direction of those arrows. A is looking up the mast, B and C looking down. Regards Chimp.

Coming together nicely Kiwiron!

Many thanks for your words of encouragement SHJ. It's always good to get positive feedback Chimp

I guess I'm long overdue for an update, so here it is. I finished the ratlines on the foremast then moved onto the main and mizzen masts. As you can imagine there's not much to say here as it's just a repeat of the fore mast. I then fitted the backstays for the three masts. This again is not the sequence shown in the instructions or the videos but I feel it's a more logical order. I then decided the time was right to fit the bowsprit. This was a big decision as with the bowsprit fitted it makes the ship too long to comfortably sit on my very restricted work top and would now be prone to getting damaged as I manipulate the model. However, it has to be fitted at some point in time and now felt right. The bowsprit had been made many months ago and was rigged using the kit supplied thread. I've since discarded the kit thread and make my own rope as I wasn't happy with the quality. Having said that I've decided to keep the original rigging of the bowsprit for now. If it looks too much out of place I might decide to replace it. With the bowsprit glued in place I fitted the gammoning which went well. I then made and fitted the three gaffs to the masts and the boom to the mizzen mast. These were straightforward but a word of warning if fitting the mizzen gaff and boom after the mizzen shrouds and backstays. Make sure you fit them pointing aft. I know that sound obvious and it makes me look a fool, but I fitted them pointing forward, as it was easier to tie the thread around the mast. I then realised even pointing them upwards they were both too long to spin around to point aft as they caught on the backstays. I felt such a fool and had to cut them off and start again. I thought I would take a couple of photos of how she is now as I'm starting to feel I might be on the home run. Next I need to rig the bowsprit and finish the standing rigging. With the winter months approaching I should get time to finish her off before the end of the year Regards Chimp

Hi Allan, Many thanks for taking the time to add further clarification. What you describe makes perfect sense, it's just unfortunate that the drawings make the issue a little confusing for people like myself with only little knowledge of such things. I guess that's what we're all doing here, some teaching and some (if not all) learning. Thanks again for clearing things up. Chimp

Hi Allan, I was interested by your post regarding tholes and thwarts on small boats, though it took me awhile to understand as I'm not very knowledgeable in nautical terms. I'm sure that what you say is absolutely correct and I don't mean to question your post, but to understand the true picture. I'm also in the process of making these boats for the Beagle and in complete ignorance followed the instructions supplied by the manufacturer. I must admit I've found the supplied instructions to be limited and lacking in many areas during my build. I also make reference to the AotS for the Beagle, which I have taken to be far superior in detail. It looks like the manufacturer has also followed the AotS of this occasion as the two appear to be consistent. Looking at the 26ft yawl it shows the following: Have I misunderstood the drawings. It's difficult to know from the plan and side view if the tholes alternate. To me it looks like they don't but I can fully understand why they should. Has the AotS got it wrong? The whaleboats show a single thole as follows: This also has the problem of not showing alternating tholes. Best regards Chimp

Hi Penfold, You've made a very nice job of that small boat, I know how difficult they can be. The whole thing is starting to take shape, you're doing some good work there. I'm watching with interest Regards Chimp

When I had problems with one of their kits they wanted me to deal through the supplier. There wasn't any problems with getting replacement parts but they said it was easier for them to always deal through the suppliers. Your build is coming along well Kiwiron. I'm keeping an eye on it as I'm thinking of adding it to my list of future builds (if I can find the space) Chimp

Hi Michiel, Looks like you're making good progress with your build and all is looking nice. I too have found the scale of many of the items haven't been quite right, some like the pins to be well over sized. Having said that I've pushed on through with a view to completing the build. For me, I'm using my build as a learning experience and have many mental notes for my next build. I have found the kit supplied rope to be next to useless as it's very hairy. I've tried to improve it with rubbing on wax and even burning off the fuzz but now I make my own (which has been a pleasurable experience). I would suggest you consider your options here too. Chimp

Hi Penfold, Many thanks for your kind words of encouragement. I'm trying to keep focused but at the moment the progress is slow but at least it's steady. It's about time I posted another update. Chimp

Here is the latest progress with the rigging. After finishing tying the ratlines on the foremast I then moved onto the main mast. This time rather than using 0.5mm thread to fix the deadeyes I thought I would change to 0.7mm brass wire, which I have plenty of. I know this inconsistency may look a little odd but I don't think it will look too obvious on the finished model and I'm keen to try different things. Always with a view to learning for the next model. As far as I can tell the futtock iron and strap should be metal anyway. I started by making up the deadeye straps using the brass wire: Everything worked well with the brass wire holding the deadeyes but I'm not sure the alignment of the pre-drilled holes in the mast top was quite right which meant the deadeyes and wire ended up at an angle which messed up the spacings a little. Maybe if I had used thread there would have been a little more compliance but I don't think that would have changed the effect of the spacing of the deadeyes. With the deadeyes fitted I continued rigging the topmast. As you can see from the photo above there is another issue with the pre-drilled holes in the mast tops. The handrail clashes with the rigging. I've just had a look at the plans and it looks like the holes for the handrails aren't pre-drilled, so I could have made them a bit shorter than shown in the instructions, which would have avoided the clash..... be warned if you're looking to make this model. So all that part of the rigging was done off the ship. Then it was time to fit the masts to the ship. With the masts fitted and aligned it was then on with fitting the fore shrouds. Top ensure a consistent spacing of the deadeyes I made a pair of jigs to keep the deadeyes at a set distance. I saw this on someone's build log the other week. Sorry for not having their name to hand. With all the main mast shrouds fitted it was then back to tying the ratlines. At this rate I should have all the shrouds and ratlines finished in the next week or two, which I know is slower than most but I work on the principle of 'Slow but sure'. Chimp

I think it's, from left to right, 25ft Whaleboat, 25ft Gig, 23ft Cutter and Dinghy. Chimp