robdurant

For a first kit from Caldercraft, you might want to consider HM Schooner Pickle... it's the model I started with, and as one of their later decelopments, meaning, it has more detailed instructions and goes together nicely. The older kits (Caldercraft's Sherbourne for example, which I have also built) require a lot more reading between the lines and prior experience is helpful
 
Just my tuppence. Whichever way you decide to go, welcome to the forum. You'll find lots of help here... I know I have 

Wow thank you everyone some great advice and really making me feel welcome too so yeah thank you. getting paid soon and birthdya next week so hopefully not long and i can purchase my first kit! will keep you all updated! Thanks again

Just a brief update... progress is gradually being made.  Thank you to all those who are looking in   It's a true encouragement.
 
The first shaped planks are on. I put four strakes on each side without shaping - one more than Vanguard suggest - but it seems to be turning out okay at the moment. Ultimately it's only the first planking, so if it isn't entirely neat, it'll all get covered up anyway. I figure it's good to try and do a nice job, because then I'm getting the practice. I'm sure i could do without stealers at the stern, but this feels like it will make the runs more simple. Time will tell.

Okay - so having had my immune system attack my brain (explained here... An enforced and hopefully not permanent hiatus), I'm currently unable to think at the kind of level required to make any progress on the projects I had going before (Barque Stefano, HMS Bristol (1775), and Nordkap). To be honest, I can't quite believe I ever even attempted them at all! I'm now having to learn a whole bunch of stuff all over again (new neural pathways, apparently!), and this build is part of my exploring what I'm able to do now  Progress is encouraging! Over the past month, I've gone from managing one step of a lego model per day, to being able to use a scalpel again without terrifying everyone within arm's length, to building and painting the brand new 1:48 Airfix tiger moth kit (picture below). I can recommend that kit, btw... it's a fun build! (And no, I didn't attempt the wires between the wings... )

Now, I'm excited to be taking on this beautiful kit as the next step. Having built a model of Lady Isabella before (below), I knew the instructions, kit design and support from this forum, and the simplicity of the build as a whole would be the best shot I have at getting back into this wonderful hobby! So thank you, Chris of Vanguard Models for such an excellent kit!

It will be interesting to see how close I can get to this in this new build... I'm hoping to invest in the more detailed sails for Erycina (a rough set are included with the kit, but I can confirm that they aren't a patch on the sails that I purchased alongside Lady Isabella, which I presume are of the same quality as Erycina's separately sold sail set). That Vanguard sells them separately also means I can get them as a separate purchase and spread the cost . Hooray!
 
There are already lots of excellent build logs of this kit, so I'm not expecting to exhaustively cover every step, but I will share my thoughts on it, and if I digress from the kit (not the plan!), I'll note what I've done and why, and you are very welcome to follow along and comment if you'd like to.  
 
Anyway - Erycina arrived today, and I shall get stuck in tomorrow. Thanks for reading this far. I'm sure progress will be slow! But slow and steady is just fine More sleep, first! Updates to follow.
 
Rob

Just a brief update... progress is gradually being made.  Thank you to all those who are looking in   It's a true encouragement.
 
The first shaped planks are on. I put four strakes on each side without shaping - one more than Vanguard suggest - but it seems to be turning out okay at the moment. Ultimately it's only the first planking, so if it isn't entirely neat, it'll all get covered up anyway. I figure it's good to try and do a nice job, because then I'm getting the practice. I'm sure i could do without stealers at the stern, but this feels like it will make the runs more simple. Time will tell.

A very brief update.... three strakes on one side, and four on the other... from this point on I'll need to taper the planking, but it's making for a good solid base for the second planking. The large number of bulkheads make the planking a pleasure to do, and being able to edge bend the planks with the rib-bending iron mean very little pressure is every required.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 

For a first kit from Caldercraft, you might want to consider HM Schooner Pickle... it's the model I started with, and as one of their later decelopments, meaning, it has more detailed instructions and goes together nicely. The older kits (Caldercraft's Sherbourne for example, which I have also built) require a lot more reading between the lines and prior experience is helpful
 
Just my tuppence. Whichever way you decide to go, welcome to the forum. You'll find lots of help here... I know I have 

Just a brief update... progress is gradually being made.  Thank you to all those who are looking in   It's a true encouragement.
 
The first shaped planks are on. I put four strakes on each side without shaping - one more than Vanguard suggest - but it seems to be turning out okay at the moment. Ultimately it's only the first planking, so if it isn't entirely neat, it'll all get covered up anyway. I figure it's good to try and do a nice job, because then I'm getting the practice. I'm sure i could do without stealers at the stern, but this feels like it will make the runs more simple. Time will tell.

Just a brief update... progress is gradually being made.  Thank you to all those who are looking in   It's a true encouragement.
 
The first shaped planks are on. I put four strakes on each side without shaping - one more than Vanguard suggest - but it seems to be turning out okay at the moment. Ultimately it's only the first planking, so if it isn't entirely neat, it'll all get covered up anyway. I figure it's good to try and do a nice job, because then I'm getting the practice. I'm sure i could do without stealers at the stern, but this feels like it will make the runs more simple. Time will tell.

For a first kit from Caldercraft, you might want to consider HM Schooner Pickle... it's the model I started with, and as one of their later decelopments, meaning, it has more detailed instructions and goes together nicely. The older kits (Caldercraft's Sherbourne for example, which I have also built) require a lot more reading between the lines and prior experience is helpful
 
Just my tuppence. Whichever way you decide to go, welcome to the forum. You'll find lots of help here... I know I have 

For a first kit from Caldercraft, you might want to consider HM Schooner Pickle... it's the model I started with, and as one of their later decelopments, meaning, it has more detailed instructions and goes together nicely. The older kits (Caldercraft's Sherbourne for example, which I have also built) require a lot more reading between the lines and prior experience is helpful
 
Just my tuppence. Whichever way you decide to go, welcome to the forum. You'll find lots of help here... I know I have 

A very brief update.... three strakes on one side, and four on the other... from this point on I'll need to taper the planking, but it's making for a good solid base for the second planking. The large number of bulkheads make the planking a pleasure to do, and being able to edge bend the planks with the rib-bending iron mean very little pressure is every required.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 

A very brief update.... three strakes on one side, and four on the other... from this point on I'll need to taper the planking, but it's making for a good solid base for the second planking. The large number of bulkheads make the planking a pleasure to do, and being able to edge bend the planks with the rib-bending iron mean very little pressure is every required.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 

A very brief update.... three strakes on one side, and four on the other... from this point on I'll need to taper the planking, but it's making for a good solid base for the second planking. The large number of bulkheads make the planking a pleasure to do, and being able to edge bend the planks with the rib-bending iron mean very little pressure is every required.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 

A very brief update.... three strakes on one side, and four on the other... from this point on I'll need to taper the planking, but it's making for a good solid base for the second planking. The large number of bulkheads make the planking a pleasure to do, and being able to edge bend the planks with the rib-bending iron mean very little pressure is every required.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 

Time for an update. The sub-deck has been put in place. It clips in nicely, and once glued provides a good solid structure,
 

Once in place, the doublers at the stern can be glued in, and I added some slightly watered down carpenter's glue to give these areas some strength before continuing with some fairing to get ready for the bulwarks. This area is quite vulnerable, but with a little care and attention it hasn't caused me any problems.

After getting the fairing near to where I felt it should be, the keel parts are glued into place (thus saving them being sanded away unintentionally... 


 
I like this way of doing things. It gives you the double benefits of good access to sand, and a neat finish. Kudos, Chris!
 
Now the bulwarks can be fitted... They aren't glued above the sub-deck, but can be clamped... Again, it all seemed to go very smoothly.


Having waited again for things to dry overnight, the sub-counter was soaked, clamped in place, and allowed to dry overnight - again - and then glued in place... 
 


Then - having allowed it all to dry again - it was time to start the planking... 

And that's where I've got to so far...  Thanks for looking in. I'm really pleased with how things are going
 
Rob

Time for an update. The sub-deck has been put in place. It clips in nicely, and once glued provides a good solid structure,
 

Once in place, the doublers at the stern can be glued in, and I added some slightly watered down carpenter's glue to give these areas some strength before continuing with some fairing to get ready for the bulwarks. This area is quite vulnerable, but with a little care and attention it hasn't caused me any problems.

After getting the fairing near to where I felt it should be, the keel parts are glued into place (thus saving them being sanded away unintentionally... 


 
I like this way of doing things. It gives you the double benefits of good access to sand, and a neat finish. Kudos, Chris!
 
Now the bulwarks can be fitted... They aren't glued above the sub-deck, but can be clamped... Again, it all seemed to go very smoothly.


Having waited again for things to dry overnight, the sub-counter was soaked, clamped in place, and allowed to dry overnight - again - and then glued in place... 
 


Then - having allowed it all to dry again - it was time to start the planking... 

And that's where I've got to so far...  Thanks for looking in. I'm really pleased with how things are going
 
Rob

Time for an update. The sub-deck has been put in place. It clips in nicely, and once glued provides a good solid structure,
 

Once in place, the doublers at the stern can be glued in, and I added some slightly watered down carpenter's glue to give these areas some strength before continuing with some fairing to get ready for the bulwarks. This area is quite vulnerable, but with a little care and attention it hasn't caused me any problems.

After getting the fairing near to where I felt it should be, the keel parts are glued into place (thus saving them being sanded away unintentionally... 


 
I like this way of doing things. It gives you the double benefits of good access to sand, and a neat finish. Kudos, Chris!
 
Now the bulwarks can be fitted... They aren't glued above the sub-deck, but can be clamped... Again, it all seemed to go very smoothly.


Having waited again for things to dry overnight, the sub-counter was soaked, clamped in place, and allowed to dry overnight - again - and then glued in place... 
 


Then - having allowed it all to dry again - it was time to start the planking... 

And that's where I've got to so far...  Thanks for looking in. I'm really pleased with how things are going
 
Rob

Time for an update. The sub-deck has been put in place. It clips in nicely, and once glued provides a good solid structure,
 

Once in place, the doublers at the stern can be glued in, and I added some slightly watered down carpenter's glue to give these areas some strength before continuing with some fairing to get ready for the bulwarks. This area is quite vulnerable, but with a little care and attention it hasn't caused me any problems.

After getting the fairing near to where I felt it should be, the keel parts are glued into place (thus saving them being sanded away unintentionally... 


 
I like this way of doing things. It gives you the double benefits of good access to sand, and a neat finish. Kudos, Chris!
 
Now the bulwarks can be fitted... They aren't glued above the sub-deck, but can be clamped... Again, it all seemed to go very smoothly.


Having waited again for things to dry overnight, the sub-counter was soaked, clamped in place, and allowed to dry overnight - again - and then glued in place... 
 


Then - having allowed it all to dry again - it was time to start the planking... 

And that's where I've got to so far...  Thanks for looking in. I'm really pleased with how things are going
 
Rob

First.
Thanks everyone for watching, liking and comments.
 
Building the upper part of the hull at the waist. We change from fraims on the inside of the planking to standards on the outside. Planking is quite thin here, only about 4cm 1/1 scale.
First the stadards, luckily some of these remained. And my standards were created based on them. One by one, time consuming

Glue the standards in place after dry fitting

Then the planking on the rear castle is neatly cut.

The first plank


The second plank, all hands (clamps) on deck.


Additional supports around the gun ports.

Glued the middle rail in place

And the top rail.


The starboard side is ready, the tops of the rails still need to be shortened slightly. 
I'm happy with the look of this part, if I say so myself 

Proper stays now installed.   



I was looking at the shrouds and thinking how to keep them spread for the ratlines.  I then realized this kit does not include the lower futtock shrouds and catharpins needed to spread the shrouds and to secure the top platform deadlines from below the top.   I suppose Heller didn't see these as necessary since their shroud tool does the job.  So I can fabricate these myself.   

Post One hundred and Seventy-one
Album photo's
I have at last got around to taking the completion photo’s which will form part of the Photo build record book that I’m currently putting together.

4395
4361A

4392

4364

4365

4391

4390

4396

4369

4405

4395

2161A

2145a

4397

2162a

2164a

4380

4379

4388

4494a
I am currently faffing around with a clinker built 18’ cutter, and ‘Indy’ is yet to be enclosed in her case, so the story has not quite ended.
 
Then there’s the 26’ Launch, still on my mind.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

A little more progress today, putting the framework together.


Lots of this goes together dry, and then diluted PVA is added later to fix the whole together. Even without the glue, it's very solid. The only potential gotcha I'd point out is step 17, where a doubling part is glued in place, but you'll want to make sure it's lined up well, because in step 19, you'll insert a positioning tab (32?) that will rely on that glued piece being in the right spot. Having built another Vanguard fishing boat I spotted that coming, and so, although I took a break between these steps, it didn't catch me out. Anyway - we're spoiled by the quality of these instructions! And if you're setting out to get started, you could do much worse than just reading through the whole instruction booklet a few times and getting familiar with the sequence before you start out. It'll help you see these things coming, and prepare you for the kits you may move onto, where your hand will not be held in the same way
 
Thanks for looking in, and happy building
 
Rob

Yes, most will not be seen, as I have to take into account the depth of the carronade carriages and the various openings down the centre of the deck. When I started this, my main thought was that I want to include a ships stove, and it kind of progressed from there.
 
However, as some build logs of Sphinx and Indy has shown, the modeller can choose how much of the upper deck is planked, and this one will be easier due to the sub deck being much less prominent, and the beams being flush with the upper surface of the ply deck.
 
I always think back to the excellent Tamiya kits I have, where they have details that are almost, sometimes completely covered up once fully built. 

Harpy also has 17 bulkheads with lots of bracing, so very structurally sound..
 
Yesterday I clamped and then glued the final iteration of the gun port patterns - as usual for this sort of kit, no gunports or oar ports need to be marked and cut out, these will be already done.
 

Here you can see the ply pattern clamped and glued in place. No pins were used at all in fixing these. They were first clamped in place and then brush glued. Note there are no kinks in the lower edges at all, all fits nicely. The second pic shows were I am up to, checking the very first iteration of the outer bulwark skin and main wale, just clamped loosly in place to check general fit. The final ones will have engraved detail. Next job is to first plank the hull, which I shall start next week.