Stuntflyer
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from PeteB in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
I completed all of the bulkhead and filler pieces today using PVA glue. Only one false keel slot had to be adjusted to allow for a 90° bulkhead fit. All of the laser cut bulkheads had just the right amount of slot clearance and no additional work was necessary. Very impressive since the false keel was .230" thick and the bulkheads slots had to be adjusted for this when the laser cutting was done, I think. The 3 piece port fillers call for an overall thickness of 3/4" so I added a 1/16" soft ply filler piece to make up the difference.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Archi in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The completed stem post and keel assembly is now glued to the false keel. I used a # 4b pencil to darken the seams. Treenailing was done using Chuck's method as described in chapter one of his Cheerful practicum. Once completed, the stem post and keel were given a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The WOP was buffed immediately in order to prevent a gloss finish.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from ZyXuz in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Welcome to my build of Chuck's HM Cutter Cheerful. Most of the parts will be scratch built. Others like the false keel, windlass, rigging material and blocks will be purchased directly from Chuck. The wood for this project (all sheet stock) was purchased from Jason at Crown Timberyard. The quality of his wood is excellent and I am looking forward to working with it. As with my other builds, there will be many new things to learn and I will rely heavily on the knowledge base from MSW to help guide me through the process. So please don't hesitate to post your comments along the way. Thanks!.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The completed stem post and keel assembly is now glued to the false keel. I used a # 4b pencil to darken the seams. Treenailing was done using Chuck's method as described in chapter one of his Cheerful practicum. Once completed, the stem post and keel were given a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The WOP was buffed immediately in order to prevent a gloss finish.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Archi in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The two halves of the false keel are joined using 1 hour epoxy. A 1/8” x 1/16 rabbet strip is glued along center of the false keels edge. The false keel has been tapered from the bearding line to the rabbet strip.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from egkb in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The completed stem post and keel assembly is now glued to the false keel. I used a # 4b pencil to darken the seams. Treenailing was done using Chuck's method as described in chapter one of his Cheerful practicum. Once completed, the stem post and keel were given a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The WOP was buffed immediately in order to prevent a gloss finish.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from tarbrush in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The completed stem post and keel assembly is now glued to the false keel. I used a # 4b pencil to darken the seams. Treenailing was done using Chuck's method as described in chapter one of his Cheerful practicum. Once completed, the stem post and keel were given a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The WOP was buffed immediately in order to prevent a gloss finish.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from KenW in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The completed stem post and keel assembly is now glued to the false keel. I used a # 4b pencil to darken the seams. Treenailing was done using Chuck's method as described in chapter one of his Cheerful practicum. Once completed, the stem post and keel were given a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The WOP was buffed immediately in order to prevent a gloss finish.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from qwerty2008 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The completed stem post and keel assembly is now glued to the false keel. I used a # 4b pencil to darken the seams. Treenailing was done using Chuck's method as described in chapter one of his Cheerful practicum. Once completed, the stem post and keel were given a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The WOP was buffed immediately in order to prevent a gloss finish.
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Stuntflyer reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
That looks quite good I would keep some blue painters tape on the bottom of the keel to protect it from getting nicked and scratched once the bulkheads are in position.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Mike Y in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The completed stem post and keel assembly is now glued to the false keel. I used a # 4b pencil to darken the seams. Treenailing was done using Chuck's method as described in chapter one of his Cheerful practicum. Once completed, the stem post and keel were given a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The WOP was buffed immediately in order to prevent a gloss finish.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The two halves of the false keel are joined using 1 hour epoxy. A 1/8” x 1/16 rabbet strip is glued along center of the false keels edge. The false keel has been tapered from the bearding line to the rabbet strip.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from KenW in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The two halves of the false keel are joined using 1 hour epoxy. A 1/8” x 1/16 rabbet strip is glued along center of the false keels edge. The false keel has been tapered from the bearding line to the rabbet strip.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from alde in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Welcome to my build of Chuck's HM Cutter Cheerful. Most of the parts will be scratch built. Others like the false keel, windlass, rigging material and blocks will be purchased directly from Chuck. The wood for this project (all sheet stock) was purchased from Jason at Crown Timberyard. The quality of his wood is excellent and I am looking forward to working with it. As with my other builds, there will be many new things to learn and I will rely heavily on the knowledge base from MSW to help guide me through the process. So please don't hesitate to post your comments along the way. Thanks!.
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Stuntflyer reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
William L. Crothers
I am very sorry to report that Bill Crothers passed away on Friday, May 1. He was in his 103rd year. Bill’s research and writings on American clippers and packets, in particular his intensive exploration of the structures of these ships, place him at the forefront of contributors to our knowledge of these subjects. I am personally indebted to him, for without his work there would be no framed Young America model, nor perhaps more excellent examples to follow. It was my special privilege to have briefly known Bill and to have his valuable comments on my work. I will always value the interest he showed in the model, no less than the writings that made it possible.
Ed
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from qwerty2008 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The two halves of the false keel are joined using 1 hour epoxy. A 1/8” x 1/16 rabbet strip is glued along center of the false keels edge. The false keel has been tapered from the bearding line to the rabbet strip.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from GuntherMT in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Welcome to my build of Chuck's HM Cutter Cheerful. Most of the parts will be scratch built. Others like the false keel, windlass, rigging material and blocks will be purchased directly from Chuck. The wood for this project (all sheet stock) was purchased from Jason at Crown Timberyard. The quality of his wood is excellent and I am looking forward to working with it. As with my other builds, there will be many new things to learn and I will rely heavily on the knowledge base from MSW to help guide me through the process. So please don't hesitate to post your comments along the way. Thanks!.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The two halves of the false keel are joined using 1 hour epoxy. A 1/8” x 1/16 rabbet strip is glued along center of the false keels edge. The false keel has been tapered from the bearding line to the rabbet strip.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from rafine in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The two halves of the false keel are joined using 1 hour epoxy. A 1/8” x 1/16 rabbet strip is glued along center of the false keels edge. The false keel has been tapered from the bearding line to the rabbet strip.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Canute in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The two halves of the false keel are joined using 1 hour epoxy. A 1/8” x 1/16 rabbet strip is glued along center of the false keels edge. The false keel has been tapered from the bearding line to the rabbet strip.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Augie, your build is certainly on my must see list. Everything looks just great! Your excellent workmanship really shows itself as she slowly comes together.
Mike
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from GLakie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Augie, your build is certainly on my must see list. Everything looks just great! Your excellent workmanship really shows itself as she slowly comes together.
Mike
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
All of the deck planking, waterways, stanchions and pre-planking are now finished.
It was more time consuming doing the upper deck this way. 1/32" edge joints are fragile. The only real advantage being that it's easier to sand the planking off the ship. Just something I wanted to try.
The deck planking glued to the false deck
The last 2 planks and those in front of the grating were installed and covered by the waterway.
Upper deck with stanchions, grating, hatch and pre-planking installed. The bulwark template has been thinned down gradually exposing the inboard planking at its top edge. This will make the bulwark 1/16" thick after the second layer planking is completed.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
● After Cubbridge Head: The After Cubbridge Head and false deck were completed with stanchions below the false deck in place. The false deck has a strip of boxwood glued to its forward edge to maintain uniformity.
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Stuntflyer reacted to mtaylor in Crown Timberyard, evaluation of some wood sheets
Lou,
You're not "bad". This topic got previously hijacked, to put it simply.
We all have our methods and reasoning for what we use and how we use it. I, for one, am amazed at the tolerances of some suppliers and also by the lack of tolerances by some others. Consistency is what I look for and if I have to use a Crown or a Hobbymill to get it, so be it.. In other words, if I'm slicing 1/16" planks off a slab that's supposed to be 1/8" for 1/16"X1/8" planking, I don't want to find out that it wavers all over the place and in some places is less than 1/8" thick. I'll thickness it down, but I can't add thickness to it.
For you and others, milling your own wood is great. For people like myself, not so great. I don't have the time, space, or equipment. This is truly a topic of "whatever floats your boat". I'll slice planks off a slab, etc. but dealing with anything bigger than 1"X 4" is out of the question.
And for the record, I do take umbrage with someone (not you) painting scratch builders who don't mill their own wood are somehow less than those who do. An artist is an artist, doesn't matter if they grind their pigments and mix their own or buy them in a tube. We have artisans (not me by a long shot) here who do mill their own, others who don't.
I'll go quietly now....
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