Stuntflyer
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from dcicero in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.
Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from WackoWolf in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.
Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.
Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Mike Y in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
A big thank you to Chuck, Pops, Ryland, Andy, Mike Y, Sam, David B. and others who have looked in. I really appreciate all the positive comments and words of encouragement.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from WackoWolf in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
Transom frieze
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from HIPEXEC in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I finished the oarlocks, the horse located in front of the transom and red paint work today.
Looks crude but it works. Made from scrap 3/32" aluminum stock to even out the oarlocks using a file.
The oarlocks were painted with the same wood tone color that I used on the belaying pins in order to lighten the color of the wire. I then did all the red painting as necessary including the oarlocks. All of the red was then sprayed with the Testors clear dull coat. I sprayed the clear into an airbrush container and used the airbrush to spray. This gave me finer control over the area being sprayed. Even though you can't see it in the photo the red has no shine at all and looks very evenly toned now that it has been sprayed with the Testors Dullcoat.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I finished the oarlocks, the horse located in front of the transom and red paint work today.
Looks crude but it works. Made from scrap 3/32" aluminum stock to even out the oarlocks using a file.
The oarlocks were painted with the same wood tone color that I used on the belaying pins in order to lighten the color of the wire. I then did all the red painting as necessary including the oarlocks. All of the red was then sprayed with the Testors clear dull coat. I sprayed the clear into an airbrush container and used the airbrush to spray. This gave me finer control over the area being sprayed. Even though you can't see it in the photo the red has no shine at all and looks very evenly toned now that it has been sprayed with the Testors Dullcoat.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I finished the oarlocks, the horse located in front of the transom and red paint work today.
Looks crude but it works. Made from scrap 3/32" aluminum stock to even out the oarlocks using a file.
The oarlocks were painted with the same wood tone color that I used on the belaying pins in order to lighten the color of the wire. I then did all the red painting as necessary including the oarlocks. All of the red was then sprayed with the Testors clear dull coat. I sprayed the clear into an airbrush container and used the airbrush to spray. This gave me finer control over the area being sprayed. Even though you can't see it in the photo the red has no shine at all and looks very evenly toned now that it has been sprayed with the Testors Dullcoat.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I finished the oarlocks, the horse located in front of the transom and red paint work today.
Looks crude but it works. Made from scrap 3/32" aluminum stock to even out the oarlocks using a file.
The oarlocks were painted with the same wood tone color that I used on the belaying pins in order to lighten the color of the wire. I then did all the red painting as necessary including the oarlocks. All of the red was then sprayed with the Testors clear dull coat. I sprayed the clear into an airbrush container and used the airbrush to spray. This gave me finer control over the area being sprayed. Even though you can't see it in the photo the red has no shine at all and looks very evenly toned now that it has been sprayed with the Testors Dullcoat.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from samueljr in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I finished the oarlocks, the horse located in front of the transom and red paint work today.
Looks crude but it works. Made from scrap 3/32" aluminum stock to even out the oarlocks using a file.
The oarlocks were painted with the same wood tone color that I used on the belaying pins in order to lighten the color of the wire. I then did all the red painting as necessary including the oarlocks. All of the red was then sprayed with the Testors clear dull coat. I sprayed the clear into an airbrush container and used the airbrush to spray. This gave me finer control over the area being sprayed. Even though you can't see it in the photo the red has no shine at all and looks very evenly toned now that it has been sprayed with the Testors Dullcoat.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Mike Y in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I finished the oarlocks, the horse located in front of the transom and red paint work today.
Looks crude but it works. Made from scrap 3/32" aluminum stock to even out the oarlocks using a file.
The oarlocks were painted with the same wood tone color that I used on the belaying pins in order to lighten the color of the wire. I then did all the red painting as necessary including the oarlocks. All of the red was then sprayed with the Testors clear dull coat. I sprayed the clear into an airbrush container and used the airbrush to spray. This gave me finer control over the area being sprayed. Even though you can't see it in the photo the red has no shine at all and looks very evenly toned now that it has been sprayed with the Testors Dullcoat.
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Stuntflyer reacted to tlevine in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I used Testor's reflectance reducer to topcoat my friezes. There has been no yellowing after a year.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
Transom frieze
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from tlevine in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
Transom frieze
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Mike Y in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
Transom frieze
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from dgbot in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
Transom frieze
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
Transom frieze
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
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Stuntflyer reacted to tlevine in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Are you planning on edge-bending the planks or spiling them? If you are using basswood, edge bending will work. Castillo is much more difficult to edge-bend, even with these thin planks. If you are planning in spiling them you will need to plan on wider planks so that they can be fit in place.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from samueljr in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
Transom frieze
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from jburchfield1@wowway.com in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
Transom frieze
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Let's say that at the hulls widest point 12 planks will be needed to cover that bulkhead from the keel to the shear line. Since the garboard plank does not go full length from stem to stern, the bulkheads in front of it get fewer than 12 planks. How many planks depends on how many more are necessary in order to touch the next bulkhead. On mine it was 2 more. If it takes 2 more planks to touch the next bulkhead then that bulkhead will only need 9 more planks to cover it, since 3 are already in place. A tick strip at that bulkhead divided by 10 will yield the widths needed to cover that bulkhead. The plank that first touches this bulkhead might not be the exact width of the tick marks but that will not be a problem as you move along. The top tick mark should be lined up with the shear line before the marks are transferred to the bulkheads as it is more accurate than working from the bottom up. I think that using 11 planks makes the scale too large for this boat. 12-13 seems better and 12 seems ideal.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from bp1535 in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Let's say that at the hulls widest point 12 planks will be needed to cover that bulkhead from the keel to the shear line. Since the garboard plank does not go full length from stem to stern, the bulkheads in front of it get fewer than 12 planks. How many planks depends on how many more are necessary in order to touch the next bulkhead. On mine it was 2 more. If it takes 2 more planks to touch the next bulkhead then that bulkhead will only need 9 more planks to cover it, since 3 are already in place. A tick strip at that bulkhead divided by 10 will yield the widths needed to cover that bulkhead. The plank that first touches this bulkhead might not be the exact width of the tick marks but that will not be a problem as you move along. The top tick mark should be lined up with the shear line before the marks are transferred to the bulkheads as it is more accurate than working from the bottom up. I think that using 11 planks makes the scale too large for this boat. 12-13 seems better and 12 seems ideal.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Mike Y in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Let's say that at the hulls widest point 12 planks will be needed to cover that bulkhead from the keel to the shear line. Since the garboard plank does not go full length from stem to stern, the bulkheads in front of it get fewer than 12 planks. How many planks depends on how many more are necessary in order to touch the next bulkhead. On mine it was 2 more. If it takes 2 more planks to touch the next bulkhead then that bulkhead will only need 9 more planks to cover it, since 3 are already in place. A tick strip at that bulkhead divided by 10 will yield the widths needed to cover that bulkhead. The plank that first touches this bulkhead might not be the exact width of the tick marks but that will not be a problem as you move along. The top tick mark should be lined up with the shear line before the marks are transferred to the bulkheads as it is more accurate than working from the bottom up. I think that using 11 planks makes the scale too large for this boat. 12-13 seems better and 12 seems ideal.
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Stuntflyer reacted to David Spindle in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Mike, I think you aren't seeing any taper because you are using the tick strip you used for the longest bulkhead to mark plank widths for all the other bulkheads. Bear in mind, I have never done this myself and am just giving you my impressions based on what I read. I could be completely wrong!
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from jburchfield1@wowway.com in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Let's say that at the hulls widest point 12 planks will be needed to cover that bulkhead from the keel to the shear line. Since the garboard plank does not go full length from stem to stern, the bulkheads in front of it get fewer than 12 planks. How many planks depends on how many more are necessary in order to touch the next bulkhead. On mine it was 2 more. If it takes 2 more planks to touch the next bulkhead then that bulkhead will only need 9 more planks to cover it, since 3 are already in place. A tick strip at that bulkhead divided by 10 will yield the widths needed to cover that bulkhead. The plank that first touches this bulkhead might not be the exact width of the tick marks but that will not be a problem as you move along. The top tick mark should be lined up with the shear line before the marks are transferred to the bulkheads as it is more accurate than working from the bottom up. I think that using 11 planks makes the scale too large for this boat. 12-13 seems better and 12 seems ideal.
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