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About Kevin
- Birthday 08/31/1958
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Somerset England
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Javlin reacted to a post in a topic: Phoenix by Kevin - Panart - 1/84 - Ex Amerigo Vespucci - restarted June 2020
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Kevin reacted to a post in a topic: Viking Drakkar by Knocklouder - FINISHED - Amati - 1/50
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as much as he will love yr comments @gil middleton hasn't posted on MSW in 3 years
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Kevin reacted to a post in a topic: Completed Model Gallery is for Completed models only
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Kevin reacted to a post in a topic: Le Chebec by Yvesvidal - CAF Model - 1/48
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Good evening everyone, thank you for comments and likes deck plates- not finished yet two sheets of plates have to be removed, separated and sanded, i numbered each piece of mine prior to removal, as i was bound to mix them, the instruction don't show much, other than where they go, but great online tutorial then sprayed all the edges with walnut, sanded them with 3500 grit pad, repeated, then sprayed over with Oak and sanded again Been 34 deg in the mancave, too warm for me, so im slightly behind, where i would like to be, not a race, im pleased with the way it is turning out, But wood glue, is a real bug bare, even with just using a cocktail stick to apply. So before she is completed, i will remove some of the worst offenders and open them to reveal the hold no plates are glued down at this stage
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good morning everyone took the build upto deck level, which is the height of plank 9 the frame is adapted again to fit the new keel width. Deck beams - Airbrushing i would love to have bought the wood dye the Pavel Nikitin uses, but would cost a fortune to order and shipping (about £60), a set is available on one of the market sites, but at the same price, so i purchased a set of OCcre wood dyes, Walnut and Oak
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Good morning everyone Thank you for comments and likes Day 8 Planking Having never done a clinker build, i was expecting it to be far more difficult than it actually is. The boards are made up in two halves, sanded then lined up against the rebates on the frames, frame 8 (bow and stern) is not a problem, but does need adjusting each time a run goes in, numbers 9 and ten, don't do much other than force the wood in the right direction Before starting a temp piece is put in, and removed at a later date, all the boards then butt up against this, it also extends along the keel board row number 1 row 2, and so on i am finding the boards very dry and brittle at times, especially around the kerf joints, the whole assu will be stained so will experiment on best way to fill, and ensure the stain will take to those repaired areas
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very nice indeed, i still have that soft spot for Mountfleet kits
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Good evening, everyone, thank you for comments and likes frames dry fitted the keel was placed into the jig, although at this time there are is right or wrong way of doing this, i marked the jig with frame numbers and decided to write fwd on one end, frames are cleaned up again, and glued onto the keel, the cross member 2-5 is not fixed at this time until the stringers are in place some time later day 4 having been left overnight to set the keel and fitted frames are removed from the jig, only to be put back in with the cross member clamps shaped stringers in place simple yet clever way of holding down the cross members whilst the glue sets as i mentioned yesterday the way frame zero goes in dictated fwd at aft of the build, now is the time Mast step out for the day another rent a field session with the bois and the whole assy removed from the jig
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keel no issues with making the 2 keel/centre pieces, these are offset sections to avoid weak sports, are glued together, allowed to set and then joined together, being held in the right place by 3mm inserts Frames 21 frames numbered from the middle - zero, up to number ten fwd and aft, most of these frames 0 to 7 are made up off 4 pieces, a 5 part is added later in the build when the frames are placed in the jig, frame zero has 2 extra parts to be added later, as this forms part of the mast support. lasered markings denote the tapering areas, which does not take long to do, apart from frame 8 which was a pain to sort out, i dont have a photo at present, but as the planking is clinkered and a lot of tapering i found getting the filing quite awkward
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Hello Kevin,
went onto Cornwall model web shop, I took your advice and bought the HMS HOOD plan 1/192. so i was looking at 1/350 0r 1/200 so that is a start now to get the materials, have a few books for reference. Have a few 1/700 and 1/600 to do then will get on and in between building the HOOD will still do the 1/72s full of stash about 100 kits.
Regards
Stephen
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Day 1 building jigs made from mdf, the instructions are easy to follow, but, not all steps are covered, and some of the parts are different shapes to that shown, ideally, the best bet is to work alongside the excellent online video Jig 2 is used after the keel and frames have been removed from jig 1 the hull is turned upside-down placed on top to allow hull planking
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Good evening everyone Having recently completed two large builds, Belle Poule and Indefatigable, and jumping straight in with the Santissima Trinidad, i wanted a quick build, just to reset myself, i wasnt even going to create a log, it was to be a build going on in the background, something i could play about with and if it went all wrong, no one would ever know, well what changed your mind, I hear everyone ask? well space, to do this the ST had to be put away, therefore for as long as this takes me, the other log has to wait. i bought the kit from @chris watton at Vanguard Models a few weeks ago and started her 3 days ago, so far i am real impressed, very heavy box, most of the weight though is from the MDF which makes up the two slipways, i actually built both of these up on day one, so lets go on another of Kevin's messy and cluttered journey, as i tackle this project
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