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Everything posted by Kevin
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well indy is certainly back, and i hope to complete her by the end of this month May 2025. just completed the mizzen yard lifts the stern copper plates, wore away from handling ( another tape error i have learnt, and will be replace before the rudder is fitted, the bow is not so bad i certainly understand full fat rigging now, just how many more lines should i have hade to put on the Caldercraft HMS Victory sorry about the pants photos the room is long enough but not the width, so hope to get her outside this week and the bois say hello
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i love Mountfleet kits, the metalwork does require a lot of cleaning up, but does turn out nice, this is my St Nectan, good luck with the rest of the build
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- Boston Typhoon
- Mountfleet Models
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good evening everyone thank you for comments and likes @hollowneck thats a lovely build @brunnels up to last week i have only ever used rattle cans and hairy sticks all five boats have had the outer coats changed from oils to matt white, i dont have the cradles fitted yet so not in any proper position taught myself to airbrush this weeks, by making up one of the Emhar 1/24 trucks
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San Felipe by Roy812 - OcCre - 1/86
Kevin replied to Roy812's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
you could cut the broken side panel and remove, and place some support under the deck and reapply -
good evening everyone been nearly a year since i did any work on indy, and now hope to complete her in the next few months I have not been away, lots of modelling done, but a lot has not been shown due to circumstances, i may just show then here, rather than bore you with build logs anyway one thing on building these long term builds are the ships boats, i dont like building them, and at times having done so, i hate how they turned out. so i bought a set from @chris watton at Vanguard Models the hulls are very nicely produced, and come with the supplied wood pack to finish them off although i thought a lot about what colour to do them i kept going back to the idea of simulating then in wood phot from https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/products/hms-indefatigable-boat-set using an airbrush i used various different Tamiya buff colours, and oil Burnt Umber (reeves) base colour allowed to dry painted inside the hull with oils, not to wet like a wash but not to thick either, diluted with Turpentine after 10 minutes pull a dry brush over the oils in the like of imaginary planking add thwarts etc, paint those with a more diluted oils then do the outer hull i will possibly redo the outer hulls prior to fitting
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good evening everyone thank you for the likes Generator room not my photo, found on the web kit contents. just a large box walkways removed to replace with mesh open the front up resembles nothing, does nothing, but far better than my first attempt new walkways kit railings adapted to fit the new shape and 1cm removed from the height
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Good morning everyone Thank you for comments and likes lesson learnt - Just because it is on yr bucket list- does not mean you have to buy and build yep to all those who said its just a very and expensive, badly detailed kit = i fully agree but i continue Apart from the barrel and all the to be replaced walkways, the rest of the kit now sits on the bogies Ihe two large side links are supposed to be separate units, and connected by a link system forward and aft so that they can move at different angles on curves, In the centre between the linkages are two large box sections , the after one is two halves where as the forward on is strangely only one section ( its the unit in the photo with the three large holes(, i have left it to late to do surgery on this, in real life chains were used to keep them from separating, being one piece would prevent it whole assembly from moving on a radius i will cover the breech assembly in the next update
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good evening everyone Track Base spent the last few days working on the base, i read that if the barrel to reduced to the correct size i will only need 3x30cm beds and the end caps so thats what i have gone with i had been hoping to use some trumpeter rolling stock on it as well but the track width distances are quite a way out, in grey primer and black top coat ballast reds and greys paints used for the wood XF-78 wooden deck tan oils burnt umber
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good evening, thank you for comments and likes the bogies had the forward sections planked, this replaced the plastic profile, and a grime wash added this completes these units other than the hand rails and storage boxes all the walkways have to be replaced as they are just a solid plastic profiles, but were steel mesh in real life, i found a cheap alternative to buy some for a fraction of the cost the walkways supports were constructed from wood, for my first attempt i think they turned out ok as you can see i am much further ahead in the build, but i am doing other jobs between paint drying. and not jump around to much if it stops raining i will get some outside shots
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Good evening everyone thank you for comments and likes All the plastic on the carriages is now complete with the exception of the rails, the plastic decking is being replaced by wood. Primed in Hycote spay grey primer, and using Greman Grey by Tamiya as the top coat Test patch with dark grey and German grey (recommended) opposite ends with most of the detailing on in primer makeshift spray booth German Grey top coat still in primer some now in German Grey
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Good morning I have not tried them on the actual rails yet, the photos are just on the kit plain track bed, had thought about replacing the wheels, for about 20 seconds, will look and see what they look like when in the final colours, im going to find it difficult the throw large amounts of cash at this project, when ships are my favourite subject, however i still want the final build to look ok. Went and failed to get Tamiya German Grey XF-63 paint yesterday as out of stock, purchased XF-24, instead, but after a test last night i have now ordered XF-63
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good evening everyone day 7 chassis well I cut the carriages in half, to equal 8 and never thought anymore about it for a day or so, and last night thought well it dont make any difference, i have not actually gained anything as the two chaasis beds are still tight against one another. spent hours on the web and came across the answer, i had two options 1 - take 2.5mm off each end that has been cut or 2 - move the pivots on the link bridge further apart, and when placed down onto the chassis they will force the new gap I chose option 2 link bridge having moved the pivots towards the ends i now have this gap at the same time i am continuing to complete the brake fittings
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