Kevin

First of all, thanks for all the thumbs up from everyone that is reading this. It's a great encouragement for a beginner like me.
 
Several things came together today and I feel that I can see some real progress.
 
First of all, the project with in the project, the hatches are finally complete (except for varnish). The tarpaulin turned out as I wanted. After wetting it was easy to form and with some tape to hold down the sides the heap got the impression of thick and heavy rubberized canvas that I wanted. The hooks was a bit tricky. They are made of aluminum from a cut up can, and are glued wit CA glue.
 

The railings and the painting of the hull is mostly complete. There are some extensions to be added on top of the railing in the fore and aft parts.
 
I took the opportunity to place (without gluing) the currently finished deck fittings and get a feel for it.

Cheers

For my second model ship project I will build Billing Boats "Will Everard". It is the first kit I bought. But due to delayed shipment I bought another kit (Swampscott Dory by BlueJacket) from a local hobby store and built it instead as my first build.
 
I originally selected this kit since I thought it "looked nice" and wanted to try model ship building as a hobby. I have since read a lot more about the hobby, the kit in question and about the ship itself. I still feel that it will be a fun kit to build, but now based on a bit of more understanding and knowledge.
 
The kit is labeled as a beginners kit on Billing Boats website, but on the box it says "The Advanced Beginner". I think that should be about my level of experience 🙂

The content of the kit looks OK. There are laser cut plywood parts, strip wood for planking of the hull and of the deck and a building board in MDF. Fittings are a mix of plastic and metal parts.
 
I have read in several places that Billing Boats instructions are lacking a lot of detail. After having read them I can confirm this. Even simple things, like that the numbering of the parts list is the intended order in which the parts should be assembled is not mentioned. I figured this out after studying the drawings for some time. Fortunately there are two good build logs for this kit here on MSW by Izzy Madd  and by Micklen32 they should help me along.
 
The hull of this kit is built in two halves, which are later glued together. It should (in theory at least) make it easier to do the planking. We will see... After reading the build logs mentioned I have noticed that Billing have made modifications to kit over the years (this is a rather old kit). In particular regarding how the bulkheads are mounted. The form it takes in my kit looks to be slightly easier than seen in Izzy Madds or Micklen32s builds.
 
 
 
 

i dont think i have posted on a car build before, thank you for posting,
love the video of the wire wheels makeup, lol where can i use that skill on my boats, 

i dont think i have posted on a car build before, thank you for posting,
love the video of the wire wheels makeup, lol where can i use that skill on my boats, 

i dont think i have posted on a car build before, thank you for posting,
love the video of the wire wheels makeup, lol where can i use that skill on my boats, 

Ahoy!
Skeleton of hull has been completed

good evening everyone
 
Fish Ponds
 
well that took a lot longer than anticipated, about 150 cuts of strip wood, took me most of the day, but for now it looks ok.
I still gave to adapt the bottom board to sit tight to the deck, and then see if i can simulate handles, or cut slots out to enable lifting, and then weather, and put back into the same position they were removed from, Real world DIY tomorrow so hopefully by the weekend

The engine parts were cut off the sprues, then the chrome parts were soaked in Super Clean to remove the chrome plating and clear lacquer.

 
The engine block and transmission were painted with Tamiya flat black before dry brushing with Mr Color aluminum.


 
The literature on the Cadillac V-16 indicates the intake and exhaust manifolds were ceramic coated, black. The cylinder heads were black. I've painted the cylinder heads with Tamiya semi-gloss black. The intake and exhaust manifolds were first painted with acrylic flat black, then a treatment of AK gun metal was applied. The AK metal colors in the tube come in various metal colors. They are in a wax base, applied with a brush. After application, they are buffed to achieve a glossy finish. This was the best way I knew of to try and capture the glossy, shiny, look of the manifolds as well as provide some contrast with the black cylinder heads.
 
  

Beautiful painting and finish Craig. You are a true artist.
 
Yves

Thanks Edward. 
 
Outdoor lighting gives a much better rendition of the actual color of the model.
When I went to mix my clear coat system, I found out my bottle of hardener had actually solidified completely, making it unusable. Now I know this stuff has a shelf life. I had used the 2K clear coat system on a few different models over the course of the past year, but by now, it had perished.
In lieu of the 2K clear coat system, I used Mr Color gloss clear for the clear coat finish observed on the model as it stands now.
 

I finally put some paint on this thing. Almost all chrome will be stripped away then repainted with a chrome finish. Just not too thrilled with the kit chrome. Down side is, stripping and repainting all the little chrome parts will be time consuming. Hopefully it will pay off at the end.
 

To solve my missing whitewall problem, I bought a salvaged Cadillac kit on Ebay. It turned out the salvaged kit I received was an earlier release than mine and as a consequence, the molded parts were much better than those found in my kit. Because the wheels were so much better, I decided to paint them in a factory color scheme and forego lacing my own wire wheels.
 
 

Slowly but surely. Still lots to do.
 

Looking good Kevin   each part you do is adding to her.
 
OC.

good evening everyone
 
Fish Ponds
 
well that took a lot longer than anticipated, about 150 cuts of strip wood, took me most of the day, but for now it looks ok.
I still gave to adapt the bottom board to sit tight to the deck, and then see if i can simulate handles, or cut slots out to enable lifting, and then weather, and put back into the same position they were removed from, Real world DIY tomorrow so hopefully by the weekend

good evening everyone
 
Fish Ponds
 
well that took a lot longer than anticipated, about 150 cuts of strip wood, took me most of the day, but for now it looks ok.
I still gave to adapt the bottom board to sit tight to the deck, and then see if i can simulate handles, or cut slots out to enable lifting, and then weather, and put back into the same position they were removed from, Real world DIY tomorrow so hopefully by the weekend

me again
thats the hatch covers nearly completed, just a bit more dry-brushing
 

good evening everyone
 
Fish Ponds
 
well that took a lot longer than anticipated, about 150 cuts of strip wood, took me most of the day, but for now it looks ok.
I still gave to adapt the bottom board to sit tight to the deck, and then see if i can simulate handles, or cut slots out to enable lifting, and then weather, and put back into the same position they were removed from, Real world DIY tomorrow so hopefully by the weekend

Thank you all!  I’ve been having a lot of fun with this build.  It has definitely been a good challenge.
 
I made some more progress last night.

I finished the rail, except for the hammock cranes.  The hammock cranes and netting will be one of the last deck fittings that I make.

I fixed a minor issue with the hatch going to the upper gun deck by the main mast.

I did not like the tops of the quarter galleries, so I made filler pieces that I did like.

Thank you very much!  Thank you all for all the likes!
 
Everything made last night is now painted:

The mast coats for the fore and main mast are made, painted and installed:

The stern bitts are made and installed, but not yet painted:

The forward foremast bitts and fife rail is made.  The pieces of sewing pins are my belaying pins.  Even at 1/72 scale, they are close enough to being in scale that they look like belaying pins.  At 1/98 scale, they look perfect (to me at least).

Bitts with a fife rail:

im fine thank you, as is the wife and doggie, i finished the Victory last year, and did a bit on the SD14, but presently have the St Nectan on the table, great to hear from you, and hope you will be around and staying with us

im fine thank you, as is the wife and doggie, i finished the Victory last year, and did a bit on the SD14, but presently have the St Nectan on the table, great to hear from you, and hope you will be around and staying with us