harvey1847

Hello All!
 
I have finished the drafting of the lower deck. I´ve used AOS HMS Diana to “inspire” me. I have done two versions, one with carlings in the middle of the horizontal axis (“X”) and another one with none. I think It looks stronger the V_01 version. I guess would be easier to do version two with no ledges in the middle. Do not know what to do. What do you think?!
 
The pdf´s are non-scaled. When I´ll take the decision I´ll attach them on 1:48 as I did before with the fore and aft plattforms.
 
I have omitted all the cabins. I´ll draw them this weekend. I was much more excited about the structure of the deck than the final fittings. That´s why I have not detailed the hatches frames or the ladderways.
 
 
lower deck V_02_ok.pdf
 
 
Waiting for your answers or suggestions,,,
 
 
Daniel.

hELLO!
 
A small update. I have mixed the keel, the disposition of the frames and the interior decks using photoshop. I have printed it out just to check the scale and is accurate. the size is an A1.
 
I hope it will help you in order to set the location of the inner deck clamps and more. I am trying to print it with more quality, this one has only 100 pps.
 
(updated) If you want the higher version on 300 pps, just PM me and I will send it to you via mail. It wheights 4.2MB.
 
 
keel_frames_decks_PS_100.pdf
 
Ahoy!
 
daniel.

Helloo Boys and Girls!
 
Still working and alive. i do not Know what is harder to make, CAD drawing or sanding frames...
 
If I end this who Knows when,,, I will gift myself a present like a plastic ship in a nice beautyful box, with intructions to read, plans of how to be painted, some decals and thousands of pieces numbered...
 

 
I have been drawing since yesterday. Now I´m going to sand and sand again.
 
best wishes to all!
 
 
Daniel.

You are right John, it is quite different.
 
Here is the version 2 of the stay with bought wooden beads. They are a bit smaller and more uniform than those I made on the lathe.
 
In the second picture is the bigger of the two fore small masts being turned. Is not installed yet.
 
Alexandru

Started to work on the rigging.
 
First thing I'we looked at is the main stay which in this case is covered with wood balls for some reason. Maybe because the smaller two masts in the front are attached to it and to protect the stay from their wind and wave induced movements.
 
The wood beads in my case were done on the lathe one by one from round stock. Problem with them is that they are not quite identical and they are to big for the scale of the model. When on the stay and in the final position as can be seen it the last two pictures - I didn't liked them at all.
 
I tried to do some of smaller size from 1/8in stock but it will take many more and forever to do. Biggest problem I have with this thiner stock is to properly centre the hole in the middle of the piece of wood. Wood bends sideways when spinning drill bit bends too as is smaller diameter and if the hole is off centre the beads on the string look bad. You can see some in the bigger size to in the pictures. 
 
I will go see a beading store later today to check if I can find some ready made in proper size - at least all will look the same.  

Not much done for this model just a "temporary" stand that risks to be used quite a long time.

Cherry ready for the bandsaw
 

 
The cherry cut and ready to be milled.
 

 
It was worth the time and effort.
 
Tulip on the left and Cherry on the right
 

 
Start of the new build in cherry.
In the back ground is the one made from tulip.
 

Good morning Daniel,
 
The clamps are of the 'G' type having a length of 1200mm (48"). I just had the idea of bolting two together, to obtain an overall working length of 210cm (84").

Well folks, I ordered The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780. I had to tell someone and my family and freinds really don't care. I figured you guys would understand how this is an important thing.  :-)
I hope it is worth the money.
 
Richard

At that rate I will never be able to catch up with you! Looking good

Nicely done on framing and good on you for fairing the bow and stern before adding the middle framing.  Makes things a lot easier.     Congratulations on the milestone.

Hello all!
 
Finally I´ve been able to get a camera ( a 2004 one from my mother). I will put lots of pictures at last!!
 
In the last post all the frames forward from the stern were set but not glued.
 
It took me a while to cut different pieces as spacers to put on the keel. I numbered this chocks because I removed all the frames and glued only some of them aft and the cant frames forward.
 
 
 
I have started sanding both, the aft and fwd. frames. Before starting to sand I reinforced the frames at the ends with some chocks of pine and spacers of the same width like the ones I numbered on the keel. Since there were no frames in the middle of the hull the sanding was easier. The bevel goes pretty steep on those. It is a Good advice that Randy or Bubblehead told to me once. Thanks to them.
 
 
 
I have put lots of chocks between the frames, some a strip of timber, other ones made from a same piece of pine wood cut in half to ensure that in both sides (PS and SB) is the same width.
 
 
 
The handmade sanding blocks were pretty useful. I started with a #3 grit paper. I´ll sand it later with smaller grains. I have glued the paper to the block using “contact glue”. Hope the pic attached will talk by itself. One that has been the best is just an ikea spoon, specially working on the cant frames.
 
 
 
Once the aft frames were much more or less sand I secured the hull adding two 4x4mm beams.
 
Then I have moved to glue all the square frames of the middle. Put the rest of the chocks between the frames and back to sanding again.
 

 

 

 

 
Right now I am cutting the patterns for the hawse pieces and for the keelson. My intention is to strength more the hull by adding the keelson and the at least the #9 thick stuff and #12 lower deck clamps. Then I´ll glue four or five temporary #14 lower deck beams to strength again the hull and get ready of the 4x4 beams…
 
I have completed the hull on November 16th of 2013. She looks beautiful. While sanding her with my hands once and once again sometimes I close my eyes and just feel the shape of the hull. It feels funfantascic, is like touching a sculpture… Anyway I use a 4x1mm ribband to see where I have to sand more or less. It is very helpful.
 Lot of work to do ahead but I feel kind of happy seeing the main whole thing completed.
 
Happy Wiiiiinter!
 
Daniel.

Congrats Daniel on your recent work progress - she is looking quite good. I hope to catch up to you on this progress in the next month or two. I am taking vacation next week so maybe I can get a bunch of work done on these frames. So much fun, so little time......
 
Richard

Hello Shipmates.
 Thanks for your kind words Jeff
Another few photos with the Orlop deck fitted into its position. Not yet glued as I have the top surface to sand and clean up.
 

 
Approx 5mm to trim off the pump house.

 
Temporary spacer plank to mark the amount I need to remove from pump house height.

 
View looking down onto deck.

 
Thanks for looking in
 
Regards Antony.

Thank you very much Pete!
 
Ahhhrrg the Hawse pieces...I am so scared... the easiest part it´s done. The patterns are cut. We´ll see how many times I have to cut them again and again.
 
Thanks again.
 
 
Daniel.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 23 – Forward Half Frames
 
 
American Clipper Note: In the last part, the three types of frames were discussed.  To shed some further light on that subject, before moving to the half frame work, I have included some images pf patterns that illustrate the types and also the way the shape of Young America’s hull changed from midship to the bow.
 
The first image shows one of the midship patterns.
 

 
Young America had relatively flat floors for an extreme clipper compared to the early versions like Griffith’s Sea Witch, McKay’s Staghound or Webb’s own design for Challenge.  In all these ships the angle of the lower timbers to the turn of the bilge was much greater giving the midship a pronounced V shape.  By 1853, designers were learning that extreme deadrise did not contribute to speed to the degree previously thought.  Later extreme clippers had fuller bodies, like the one shown above.
 
Moving forward the next image shows frame a, the most forward of the half frames and the last one going forward to be set at right angles to the keel.
 
 
 
The most striking feature of this pattern is the extremely sharp v-shape of the hull at this point – a defining characteristic of all the extreme clippers. Notice that the frame is in two pieces separated by the keelson in the center.  These will be bolted to the sides of the keelson.   Also note that the bolt holes are becoming perilously close to the forward (green) outer profile at the top.  This is necessary on this highly beveled frame pair so the bolts can be driven through this forward frame of the pair and not break through the inside profile on the aft frame.  Some are actually over the line, but remember that the sidings on the upper segments are reduced so the bolt holes will actually be inside of the profile when the sidings are reduced.  The pattern is at the forward face of the wider floors.
 
Finally, the most forward cant frame, f, is shown below.
 

 
This pattern shows the extremely narrow section just aft of the hawse timbers.  This frame, when assembled with is aft partner, will fit into the forward score of the five cut out in the last part.
 
So, with that background the installation of the forward frames may be less confusing.
 
The first picture shows assembly of the two sides of the first half frame pair.
 

 
The vertical strip between the frames was used to size the separation at the keelson for an easy fit.  Next is a picture of a later frame with two horizontal temporary cross-spales to allow the frame to be installed like a full frame.  This is much easier than dealing with two separated frames.
 

 
Unfortunately the first frame was a bit loose on the keelson, so the bottom cross-spale was removed and replaced with two pieces, each glued only on one opposite side.  This allowed the joint at the bottom to be closed up with a clamp as shown below.
 

 
The next [picture shows a close up of the other side during assembly.
 

 
Note that the bottom of the frame is aligned with the top of the keel rabbet.  The lower cross-spale resting on the keelson was installed to set this height.  When the glue had set at the keelson, the usual spacers were installed above to maintain spacing and adjust the centering – as shown in the last picture.
 

 
In the next part, the most forward cant frames will be set.
 
 
Ed

Today was rather productive tackling detail work.  I made and installed the "teeth" a k a net / cable cutter on the bow antenna attaching brace.  
Then moved a little further aft and cemented the torpedo loading dolly tracks to the forward deck.
As the cement ( 5 minute epoxy) was curing I started to make the dive plane guards.  I made them from 1.5 mm brass rod, bend them in shape, drilled holes in the appropriate places in the hull and epoxy cemented them in.  I used the O 21 model drawings and several photos for the location.  The lower one needs to stay clear of the side anchor.  As you can see I have marked the location.  I think that they made the anchor closing door hydraulically operative.  I may want to simulate it open with the anchor showing or lowered to the display board.  Hmmmm, that would look rather nice    Tomorrow everything will be soldered and net / cable cutter teeth made and soldered on to the guard leading edges..
Not much to show for a day's work but it's all very time consuming.
 
Okay, here are a few pics for all yuns to look at.  We don't want to disappoint Sjors now, do we?      
 

Here the net /cable cutter teeth have been soldered to the antenna brace.  It's still raw and needs to be dressed yet.  The small vertical rod is the bow flag post.  It sticks into a small brass tube cemented into the deck.
 

I have used sewing pins to secure the track in position ready to be cemented on with 5 minute epoxy.
 

Here the track is being cemented an I am using a bunch of rivet bucking bars to hold to down to the deck.  All my sheet metal tools still come in handy     
 

I found that I could cement two tracks at the same time after I "pinned" them in the right place.  Mixing small batches of epoxy began to annoy me     
 

All four tracks are now cemented to the deck and neatly cleaned up.  I'm happy.   
 

The trim plane guards are cemented in with 5 minute epoxy and waiting to cure. 
 

This shows all the detail work I did today from above the bow.
 

This is a head-on bow shot with today's work.
 

I made an annotated copy of what was done today.  I still need to make more teeth and solder everything together.  I also need to make hydrodynamic fairings around the forward parts against the hull.  I'll make them from basswood and cement them on with epoxy.
 

I couldn't resist putting a couple of the 10 mm brass (torpedo) tubes in the launching area to show their future home   
 
 
Cheers,
 

Hello Alex, Brass can be either free machining or not and sometimes the yellow brass is rather gummy or sticky. the best is to use a scraping type tip that is very sharp, the breakage of the drill bits usually happens as the bit cut through and the brass grabs it and snaps the bit. Ask me how I know.
 
If you can sharpen the bit in the normal way then using a small slip Arkansas stone and "Lapp" a small flat on the leading edge, like the one on the right. The flat prevents the bit from grabbing, it is also important to use some supporting material underneath the brass that you are drilling either some more brass or a very hard wood, this also helps to prevent the bit from breaking through too fast (the other cause of grabbing)
 
It only takes a couple of minutes to modify the bit after you sharpen it.
 

 
The Arkansas stone is in the white  stone next to the other type of drills that watchmakers use.
 
 

 
I hope this is helpful.
 
Michael

Hello,
 
I started working on the rudder and I progress quite fine until I get to drilling holes in the pintle straps. The brass I have is so hard that I already broken the 1mm mill bit into it (only one I had) and on the drill press the 1mm bit seems it just won't cut into it. I don't really know what to next with them. Only thing I can think of is to heat them red and try to drill after. So any idea will be greatly appreciated.
 
Thank you,
 
Alexandru
 
 

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This is the model as of today. I will be working on the channels and gunport lids this weekend.

What a nice work!
 
At the end of this building, plus the Naiad, plus The Victory you will surely achive the PhD in Naval Modelling if you haven´t allready got it!!
 
Always a pleasure to read and re-read your posts Ed!
 
 
Daniel.

This set of photos shows the guns and lower capstan on the upper gun deck. The blue tabs of masking tape are where the spar deck supports go.  

This is the upper gun deck planking.