BareHook
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galley
BareHook replied to toly.kol's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Those eggs could use a little black pepper! Other than that serve-em-up! Amazing! Ken -
Has anyone used Loctite 380 Black Max? This is a CA that is black, which might be usefull when attaching black metal parts?
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Got the file, thanks! though it turns out its the same as included with the kit. I fabricated the chainplates with a little bending fixture and took a couple pics with them loosly placed on the channels. This is where I discovered the middle sweep port happens to align partially behind the chainplates instead of between, due to the chainplates aligning to the rake of the mast. Now I need to decide if I can live with the sweep port behind the chainplates or fill and eliminate it (fill and paint bulwarks, redo 2 planks outside between gunports). I'm leaning toward leaving it as is, since I'm doubtfull I can cleanly remove the outside planks without causing additional damage. I blackened all the metalwork using black patina, it seemed to work pretty well. I was able to do all the brass with one dose, but had to double dose the brittania metal. With the brittania, most would buff off after the first dip, but a quick in-and-out a seconds time produced a durable black finish. The brittania seemed to pollute the solution pretty quick as well, while the brass solution lasted much longer. Next up: Finish up the cannons, install all the ringbolts and cleats, assemble & rig the anchors and bouys Ken
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Yes, please send it, can you zip it? Try khschnorr@gmail.com Thanks! Ken
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I believe it is also a natural repellent to insects that might want to have a taste of your creation.
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Working on my AVS, reposted questions here as well. The kit provided black coated steel wire for fabricating chainplates and block stropes. My concern is that this wire will eventually start to rust and stain the wood/rigging adjacent to it where installed. Should I find some .03 brass wire to use instead and blacken it? Should I reeve and space the deadeyes before installing one end on the chainplate and onto the hull and channels? Or install the deadeye/chainplate on the hull/channels, then reeve/space while on the hull? Thanks! Ken
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Couple questions regarding Chainplates. The kit provided black coated steel wire for fabricating chainplates and block stropes. My concern is that this wire will eventually start to rust and stain the wood/rigging adjacent to it where installed. Should I find some .03 brass wire to use instead and blacken it? Should I reeve and space the deadeyes before installing one end on the chainplate and onto the hull and channels? Or install the deadeye/chainplate on the hull/channels, then reeve/space while on the hull? Thanks! Ken
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What if you use a solid piece .032 thick with the windows glass area cut out and emboss the frame edges with a knife edge? Not sure how easy it would be to cut out the glass area though. Ken
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Ah, ok i'll have to check it out tonite. Need to remember to refer to those plans on occasion
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Hopeful, Can you define the "baseline"? is that the waterline? My difficulty is the only flat edge I have to reference to, is the bottom keel. Thanks Ken
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Thanks all or the info and comments! Alistair, yes that bowsprit angle will be interesting, I'll probably estimate the waterline angle in relation to the bottom keel, then determine the bowsprit angle from there. I've been working on the cannon carriages and trucks. I created an assembly fixture for bonding the carriages, shown in the pics and loosly assembled one for a quick veiw as assembled. I've also completed a lot of fiddly little things: painted the carriages and trucks assembled ringbolts cleaned-up brittania metal for blackening fabricated wood anchor cross pieces fabricated trunion straps and bolts Fabricate rope coil fixture similar to the "modeling for dummies" site type Fabricate channels, just need to add slots, waiting for creation of chainplates. Fabricate traveller, drill deck for install. Next up is blackening lot of little parts, completing cannon assembly, rigging cannons, rigging anchors & bouys, finish channels, make chainplates.
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- armed virginia sloop
- model shipways
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Painting brass fittings
BareHook replied to Monarch's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
See the Metal Blackening posts in this section. I had a hard time getting paint to stick, I switched to oil base flat enamel with 2 coats. I will shortly be getting into chemical blackening of metals which is the other option for making brass black. Ken -
I believe for the majority of builders, it comes down to aesthetics. I like to have some representation of treenails shown, but have only done imitation using putty fillers on the bulkheads. With a completely treenailed deck or hull, you may get the (what was referred to in a post on the old site) "measles" look, where it just gets too busy and sort of overwealms the visual senses at the scale it is modeled, it looks good on most larger models but trying to on a smaller scale may de difficult. Ken
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Thanks for the feedback, I'll create that bending fixture for my AVS chainplates, though they are single without the "link" part. Ken
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- bonhomme richard
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Truly inspiring , I cannot begin to guess as to how long you've been working on it. I like how you did the chainplates around the deadeyes, you did them without soldering and hiding the joints in the channels? Ken
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Working on finishing up the deck furniture. Those scary dark rigging clouds are looming on the horizon Installed the timberheads and decided to keep them with a natural finish. Fabricated the Bowsprit but still need finishing and details, just placed loose. Tried to do it the "planer/octagon" method and created scrap, had better luck with the drill motor and sandpaper. (would still like to achieve plabner skills, prob need better planer than $10 stanley trimming plane?) Catheads installed/Painted Swivel posts installed, I opted for a pair on the quarter deck instead of between the shrouds, plus provides a bit more firepower toward the stern area. Stairs were a pain in the butt, managed it but spiked my BP , (next time make a fixture). Working on the cannons. The laser cut trucks end up a bit small when made true round, so I used the large ones as the small and fabricated large trucks. Next up, blackening metal for all the various ringbolts, cleats etc. Question regarding cannon rigging. There is an eyebolt and a ringbolt on each side of the carriage. I know the size to use for the ringbolt, but what about the eyebolt? Large 3/32 or small 1/16 dia provided? It is where the hook on the block attaches.
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- armed virginia sloop
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Plank edge sanding
BareHook replied to rebekb's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Good to know, I've been considering getting one, but if they don't perform well I'll keep using a strait edge and free hand knife. Ken -
Plank edge sanding
BareHook replied to rebekb's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
What about the "Edge Strip Cutter" from Model Expo? You could adjust it to cut a thin slice and it should leave a clean edge. Ken -
So maybe a stronger mix for brass. How durable is the blackening once rinsed and dried, will it rib off easily down to metal or does loose black come off but black plating remains?
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I'll be trying it, found a local source - retail Ken
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If you plan on painting over the planking, you should experiment with exaggerated plank spacing or chamfering. This is adding a gap or chamfer to the plank edges so they show up after painting, otherwise you will do all this planking work and have it dissapear when painted. Ken
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Methinks amateur has is, the towers never matched any on the US ships, but I was guessing maybe it was early version before tower upgrade.
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Virginia or Minnesota? Ken
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Santa Maria kit - Novice question-but that's how we learn
BareHook replied to lmgoldstein's topic in Wood ship model kits
The decks have a curve that follows the keel and bulkheads, which allows for water drainage on a real deck. If you work out some creative clamping/holding (rubber bands, sticks etc...), you should be able to bond down the deck to the frame using 30 minute epoxy. If there are areas that will not be visible, you could use nails in those locations. I suggest epoxy for additional strength since you will need to flex the deck planks as well as the subdeck. Before bonding, do a trial fit/clamp in place, so you can be sure how it willl fit and where to do any adjustments. You may even be able to clamp in place and apply fillets of epoxy along all the joints where it touches the frame below, instead of on the contact surfaces. Ken -
Alistair, Thanks for digging into your memory, we'll all be feeling the loss for a while. I was lucky that most of my pictures were on the server at my work, but don't tell my boss . Ken
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