BareHook

The sweep ports are tough, I made a drill jig with 3 hole inline on an angle to drill pilot holes for the cutouts, then trimmed away at it until complete

Thanks Scott.
 
Rainy weather has cut down golf time and increased modeling time. As a result, I have made and installed the quarterdeck pin rails and also have done the quarterdeck hances and related moldings.
 
The pin rails are boxwood and were pinned and glued to the bulwarks. For the hances, I used the laser cut kit parts for the sculpted curved portion, but cut off the additional laser cut "molding" portion and replaced it with half round molding. The kit parts were nicely done, but very fragile, and it just seemed easier to use a less fragile alternative.
 
Now, I will do the cap rails for the bulwarks and transom.
 
Bob
 
 

Ken obviously has a different definition of 'light sanding'!  It took me several hours.
 
Despite careful application of masking tape, I still will have to retouch a couple of bits of the black paint.
 
After sanding, I applied 2 coats of Minwax Wipe-on-Poly Gloss.  I bought this accidentally, but was later unable to find the Satin version.
 
Recently I managed to get Feast Watson Satin Wipe-on-Poly, and these photos show the model with 1 more coat of that.  I plan to rub down and apply several more satin coats later:
 
 

 

 
 
For anyone starting this model, a hint.  The practicum leaves the oar sweeps until this stage.  It would be better to cut/drill them before sanding/painting/sealing.  I have just started making these and it is messing up my earlier sanding and artistry.
 
Here are a few different views.  I still think I am going to stick with sealed rather than painted.  The colour looks different with differing light conditions:
 
 

 

 

 
 
It's the middle of winter here in Brisbane.  Only 21.4 degrees.  That's Celsius!  For those from foreign parts, I think it equals about 70.5F.  We got it tough!
 
Cheers,
 
Brett
 
4 weeks to freedom.

Deck planking on the quarterdeck is now complete. I began by doing the center section of planking. This provided coverage around the hatches and masts and a base for the capstan and wheel. I left the aft section open to give a view of the cabin. After completing this , I tried out a variety of options for additional planking to mount guns. To my eye, the best was to do enough planking to mount the forward two guns on each side. I'm sure that others would probably come to different conclusions, but that is the choice I made. I did also add two small planking strips at the stern to support the transom knees.
 
I also made up the hatches and the ladderway coaming from boxwood with the kit gratings. As before, the deck planking is holly with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler "treenails", finished with Wipe-on Poly.
 
I'm in the process of making up cleats, ringbolts and eyebolts for the quarterdeck bulwarks. Drilling for them and mounting will be next.
 
Bob 
 
 

Hello friends.
Thanks to all for the kind comments and Likes.
 
 
 
 
modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/497-chaloupe-armée-en-guerre-by-jeronimo-1834/
 
 
 Karl    


 
 


 

Here is a blue shadow link for a build log of this kit, I have been considering this build as well.
 
Ken
 
http://www.van-vliet.org/dempseywoodworking/blueshadow.shtml

Leaving bits of skin looks more natural than gloves
The planking looks great! Give her a light sanding to remove the excess adhesive.
 
Ken

I got into a couple of those days when I just couldn't stop and completed all of the internal bulwark planking for the quarterdeck, including the transom. I also did the deck margin planks and waterways. The bulwark planking and waterways are boxwood and the deck planking is holly. I followed my usual procedure on this build with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler "treenails".
 
I'm going to do the center strip of deck planking before making a decision on how much more planking to do for gun mounting. I've narrowed it down to three choices: all of the guns on one side and none on the other; all of the guns on one side and a couple on the other side; a couple of guns on each side.
 
Bob
 

Ah, well Bindy, if the blue planks worried you, wait until you see my artificial seaweed attempts!     BTW, if you're serious about not seeing my oops, just click on the image, and you'll get a large view, that will reveal all!
 
This was the situation approaching the final belts of planks:
 

 
 

 
 
As the practicum suggested, I next used a 1/4" plank at the keel (others were 3/16" up to now).  I was left with space for 3 rows of planks.  Because I was staggering the joins every third row, it was simple to line up this row:
 

 
 
I managed to avoid any stealers at the stern, by occasionally cheating and cutting down a 1/4" plank, instead of 3/16" ones.  Again, this resulted in a couple of skinny areas, but I got there:
 

 
 

 
 
The green bits are vinyl glove remnants that pulled off with the CA I was using.  Not seaweed.
 
Tip for Australians - Parfix CA sticks badly to vinyl gloves (don't bother with latex!!!!).  The home brand CA from Woolies is more forgiving.  And don't use the runny Reject Shop $2 packs, either.
 
Now it's time to sand and see.
 
Cheers,
 
Brett
 
5 weeks to retirement, but who's counting?

Resembles Jabba's sail barge from Star Wars VI 
 

Another few items completed in the waist. I've made and installed the hatch, the barricade and the two ladders.The hatch has a boxwood coaming and uses the kit laser cut grating. The barricade is made up from boxwood posts and the laser cut cross piece from the kit. Using the kit part simplified things considerably, because it has the square holes for the posts cut in it. I chose to paint this assembly black and pinned and glued it to the deck. The ladders are boxwood. 
 
This completes the work in the waist, with the exception of the waist rails which are very fragile and will be left for a later time. I'm now working on the quarter deck area, doing the limited deck planking and the bulwark planking.
 
Bob

Lennart Petersson's book is a great source. To get some ideas go to the abbreviated version on the web:
http://www.all-model.com/Rigging-1/Rigging%20period%20ship%20models.html
 
Then click on any of the drawings that look of interest.

I used some popular dowel rods for the mast and yards. This set of photos shows the masts being made and stepped.

I'll call my official start date 6/14/2014
 
I found this kit on ebay, and wanted to build a Hannah without having to commit to a full POF scratch build. This will be a fun little build that will be for my youngest daughter Hannah. I want to try and improve the historical accuracy of this kit, but don't want to kill myself getting there, my main goal is a nice little intricate ship that represents the Hannah that my daughter will be proud to display in the future when she has her own home.
 
The kit included a solid hull, plans, printed deck on thin wood, wood dowels, wood strips, several cut pieces, rigging materials, cast cannons and sails. The box claims 1:48 scale but by best calculatuions estimate her as 1:80 scale. The cannon casting in brass or bronze are suprisingly decent and am considering keeping them as-is as they have a nice aged patina finish.
 
The upgrade will include planking over the solid hull, Planked deck, and complete full rigging following "Lennarth Petersson Rigging Fore and Aft craft" American schooner rigging info.
 
The hull has now been initially faired, I had to align the stem slot a bit to starboard to be it properly centered, but the rest was within reasonable limits. I now need to do final checks between P & S for conformity and shape then mark the hull with lines for planking butts and calculate planking bands and widths for tapering.
I remade the stem, keel and stern post from walnut so that it will match the walnut planking and give me the option of keeping the hull a natural finish. I will be planking with walnut strips for the hull and basswood for the decks. (Note: I have enough wood leftover from my AVS to complete these).
Last nite I started carving out the rabbet and hope to have the garboard strakes installed this weekend.
 
Ken
 
EDIT: I will also be using the Sultana practicum as a guideline for this build

I'll call my official start date 6/14/2014
 
I found this kit on ebay, and wanted to build a Hannah without having to commit to a full POF scratch build. This will be a fun little build that will be for my youngest daughter Hannah. I want to try and improve the historical accuracy of this kit, but don't want to kill myself getting there, my main goal is a nice little intricate ship that represents the Hannah that my daughter will be proud to display in the future when she has her own home.
 
The kit included a solid hull, plans, printed deck on thin wood, wood dowels, wood strips, several cut pieces, rigging materials, cast cannons and sails. The box claims 1:48 scale but by best calculatuions estimate her as 1:80 scale. The cannon casting in brass or bronze are suprisingly decent and am considering keeping them as-is as they have a nice aged patina finish.
 
The upgrade will include planking over the solid hull, Planked deck, and complete full rigging following "Lennarth Petersson Rigging Fore and Aft craft" American schooner rigging info.
 
The hull has now been initially faired, I had to align the stem slot a bit to starboard to be it properly centered, but the rest was within reasonable limits. I now need to do final checks between P & S for conformity and shape then mark the hull with lines for planking butts and calculate planking bands and widths for tapering.
I remade the stem, keel and stern post from walnut so that it will match the walnut planking and give me the option of keeping the hull a natural finish. I will be planking with walnut strips for the hull and basswood for the decks. (Note: I have enough wood leftover from my AVS to complete these).
Last nite I started carving out the rabbet and hope to have the garboard strakes installed this weekend.
 
Ken
 
EDIT: I will also be using the Sultana practicum as a guideline for this build

I'll call my official start date 6/14/2014
 
I found this kit on ebay, and wanted to build a Hannah without having to commit to a full POF scratch build. This will be a fun little build that will be for my youngest daughter Hannah. I want to try and improve the historical accuracy of this kit, but don't want to kill myself getting there, my main goal is a nice little intricate ship that represents the Hannah that my daughter will be proud to display in the future when she has her own home.
 
The kit included a solid hull, plans, printed deck on thin wood, wood dowels, wood strips, several cut pieces, rigging materials, cast cannons and sails. The box claims 1:48 scale but by best calculatuions estimate her as 1:80 scale. The cannon casting in brass or bronze are suprisingly decent and am considering keeping them as-is as they have a nice aged patina finish.
 
The upgrade will include planking over the solid hull, Planked deck, and complete full rigging following "Lennarth Petersson Rigging Fore and Aft craft" American schooner rigging info.
 
The hull has now been initially faired, I had to align the stem slot a bit to starboard to be it properly centered, but the rest was within reasonable limits. I now need to do final checks between P & S for conformity and shape then mark the hull with lines for planking butts and calculate planking bands and widths for tapering.
I remade the stem, keel and stern post from walnut so that it will match the walnut planking and give me the option of keeping the hull a natural finish. I will be planking with walnut strips for the hull and basswood for the decks. (Note: I have enough wood leftover from my AVS to complete these).
Last nite I started carving out the rabbet and hope to have the garboard strakes installed this weekend.
 
Ken
 
EDIT: I will also be using the Sultana practicum as a guideline for this build

I'll call my official start date 6/14/2014
 
I found this kit on ebay, and wanted to build a Hannah without having to commit to a full POF scratch build. This will be a fun little build that will be for my youngest daughter Hannah. I want to try and improve the historical accuracy of this kit, but don't want to kill myself getting there, my main goal is a nice little intricate ship that represents the Hannah that my daughter will be proud to display in the future when she has her own home.
 
The kit included a solid hull, plans, printed deck on thin wood, wood dowels, wood strips, several cut pieces, rigging materials, cast cannons and sails. The box claims 1:48 scale but by best calculatuions estimate her as 1:80 scale. The cannon casting in brass or bronze are suprisingly decent and am considering keeping them as-is as they have a nice aged patina finish.
 
The upgrade will include planking over the solid hull, Planked deck, and complete full rigging following "Lennarth Petersson Rigging Fore and Aft craft" American schooner rigging info.
 
The hull has now been initially faired, I had to align the stem slot a bit to starboard to be it properly centered, but the rest was within reasonable limits. I now need to do final checks between P & S for conformity and shape then mark the hull with lines for planking butts and calculate planking bands and widths for tapering.
I remade the stem, keel and stern post from walnut so that it will match the walnut planking and give me the option of keeping the hull a natural finish. I will be planking with walnut strips for the hull and basswood for the decks. (Note: I have enough wood leftover from my AVS to complete these).
Last nite I started carving out the rabbet and hope to have the garboard strakes installed this weekend.
 
Ken
 
EDIT: I will also be using the Sultana practicum as a guideline for this build

The Topsail Schooner “Eagle” had a length of 81’ 7”, beam of 22’ 8”, depth of 7’ 10”, and tonnage of 140 tons. Both the “Eagle” and her sistership “Arrowsic” were built in Arrowsic Island on the Kennebec River (near the present shipbuilding city of Bath, ME) in 1847 for the lumber and ice trade by builder Samuel Pattee. During the mid-19th century small schooners of this sort were widely employed in the East Coast trade; their schooner rigs an easy adaption to the prevailing westerly winds and economy in crew size.
 
The model was scratch built to a scale of 3/16” to the foot (1:64) using old Model Shipways plans by William Zakambell. Additional research was conducted at the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath, ME where a large scale model of the “Arrowsic” is on display. The model is plank on solid construction, with built up bulwarks, planked decks and topsides, coppered bottom, and scratch built deck furniture/fittings. Limited commercial fittings were utilized where appropriate, and the rigging is proportional linen line with Warner Woods’ blocks. The Topsail Schooner “Eagle” is my 3rd wooden ship model and my 1st scratch build.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thanks so much Scott.
 
Just returned from a trip up north to see the kids and grandkids and to attend my 50th law school reunion. Had a great time, but happy to get back to Essex.
 
I've completed the waist deck framing. The construction followed the materials and procedures used for the other deck framing ( all of which has been previously described ). With this step, all of the upper deck framing is now done. I've included a full profile photo of the model to this point. The next work will be the limited deck planking to be done in the waist.
 
Bob
 
 

Bow filler blocks and stern frames are installed. The dremel helped a lot with the sanding. Next up timberheads and knightsheads then fairing some more before planking.
 

 

 

I haven't posted in a while. I've been in consultation with the admiral about acquiring more space for the shipyard, it was getting crowded. Excess real estate was not allowed for expansion. So thinking out the box and remembering I had some plywood in the storeroom I decided that if I could not build out I would build up. I think I won that battle, and she is pleased with the result. YEA.
 

 

I've now made and installed the first part of the waist deck framing. As with the quarterdeck and forecastle deck framing, the beams, carlings, ledges and hanging knees are boxwood and the lodging knees are cherry. In addition, this portion of the decking required support stanchions. These were made from square boxwood strip with the round portions done with files and sandpaper. As always, the wood was finished with Wipe-on Poly. I am now working on the remaining waist deck framing.
 
Bob

Well that wasn’t too bad. I cut my first rabbet. It only took about an hour or so. I followed the practicum. It was pretty easy.
 
Next up installing the bulkheads.
 

 
I also installed the keel, stem and sternpost.
 
 

Hello everyone,
 
Time for an update.
 
I test fitted the bulkheads and marked the rabbet line. Most of the bulkheads fit perfectly, a few will have to be shimmed. I like that its easier to add than to take away. Next up cutting the rabbet. I’ve never cut a rabbet before, seems tough. First time for everything I guess.
 
By the way I’ll be using Bob Hunt’s practicum for this build.
 

 

 

 
 

All the reshaping of gunports and sanding the upper outer planking meant I had to redo the black paint on the wales and black strake.  I bought some decent quality 3M masking tape, and applied it carefully, then sealed it with clear sealant:
 

 
After that I redid the gunports and inner plank painting:
 

 
According to the instructions, next would be the cap rails.  As I stated before, I had trouble trying to figure out how these would work on the cabin area.  I knew I would have to cut down the planking there, as mentioned on 4th May, but I couldn't find any exact levels anywhere.
 
Finally I decided that the planks on the cabin deck would need to butt up to the inner edge of the cap rail there.  So I tacked a couple of pieces of scrap basswood to simulate the future planking:
 

 
Then cut down the planking, while constantly checking with my cap rail timber:
 

 
After much fairing, shaping, and tweaking, the cap rails and taffrail were ready.  This time I realised they should be painted before being glued.  And here they are:
 

 

 

 

 
 
Next will be the stress of the lower planking.
 
Cheers,
 
Brett