Daliab

Finally finished building the model, built the display case, and installed the glass.

Well the base is built.  It's huge.

Holy Cow! Spent $250 for the oak lumber to build a similar display case built 2 years ago (pictured).  Checked on the price of double pane glass for the display case.... $360.  Total $610.  The case will almost cost more that what I paid for the Mantua/Panart 738 kit.  Crazy.

Made a new display stand for the Victory today from Olha Batchvarov's Youtube video. Although the original design was for a smaller model, it also worked with a 57" long model with very little modification.  Next I have to build a new display case similar to the one the Smuggler is housed in.

Over the last year and a half, I keep reading about missing parts in kits from members of this forum. I to have been short changed in parts and have emailed the manufactor's sponsored UK store where I originally purchased the kit only to hear crickets in return. As everyone can agree these kits aren't cheap,  not counting shipping.

Why, as a forum, we don't publish a listing of kit manufactures with their contact info that we as individuals can use to get the missing parts replaced. Hobby store only sell the products thus the reason for the unanswered emails. Going to the manufacturers goes to the source where the problem can be fixed.

This forum, with all its members, can make or break a manufactor's kit based on the quality and workmanship of their kit. When parts are missing, I don't care how good the quality/workmanship is, it's a ding against their product and doubly frustrating when you don't hear back from them when you reach out to them for replacement parts. I'm sure manufactures zero in on sites like this to see what they say about their products. I've seen new, upcoming, kit manufactures be very responsive to individuals on this site but this not the norm..... but we're buying from these new upcoming manufactures. Manufactures want you to buy their products and not pirated kits that are cheaper. What say you? Is it possible to publish contact info of kit manufacturers?

On 12/4/2020 at 3:49 PM, rkwz said:

Amazing work and congratulations! She is an absolute stunner

 

Also I am extremely impressed you completed this in just over a year 

Retired + COVID = lots of time to build the model.

HMS Victory Finished

A year anniversary in the making of the Victory. 90% complete.

Completed the main mast this evening with exception of some of the lines temporarily omitted so as not to interfere with the detail work on the mizzen mast tomorrow.  I'll add those lines when yards, sails, and lines are added.

David56... Glad to hear things are on more of a positive path for you and your family. As for your new build log, I'll be on the lookout for it. After building Mantua's Victory, I too would have been tempted to build the Caldercraft version of the Victory after your Mantua version was destroyed by a house fire.  I was more motivated by price and didn't realize at the time the kit had changed as much at it has, in particular to the the stern cabins. I think the Caldercraft version looks better from the builds I have seen. I think you might be happier with the new choice if you didn't mind paying a higher price. I'll be watching with great interest. Thank you for your past help and advice on my build.  It help a lot!

Stay healthy and safe and prayers to you and your family.

Moving right along with furling sails and adding the rigging on just the bowsprit and foremast.  Moving to the mainmast tomorrow.

Taking a break on installing ratlines and moved to adding furled sails using silkspan.  I like the looser look on the furled sails and to me it may not be correct, but has a better presentation of the model's sails.

While waiting for missing parts to arrive from model ship venders, I managed to build/mount all three masts.

Warning: For those who may order a Mantua/Panart HMS Victory 738 kit, I was missing 70 each 7mm single blocks, 11 each 7mm double blocks, the wrong size belaying pins.  Pins were to short to extend below the belaying rack holders to tie ropes on each one.  Some may say you should have done an inventory of pieces supplied.  Problem the kit they currently sell today is the same kit sold years ago and the instructions show pictures of stuff they don't even cover.  All of the accessories were packaged in a hard plastic units that were mounted on a cardboard panel.  You can't loose any pieces unless you open everything and loose track of the parts.  Unfortunately, you don't know what your missing until you get to that part of the build when those parts are needed.  I've emailed the Mantua vender in the UK where I purchased the kit from and still haven't heard back from them... don't expect to either.  The issue is with the worldwide pandemic, lots of modelers are spending time on their models.  I've noticed that a lot of suppliers are out of models and accessories parts with no date when they expect to be resupplied.  I do have to say that the Mantua/Panart HMS Victory 738 has been a fun build, just a little irritated that parts were missing.

Getting better making sliksapn sails.  Many will say that the furled sails are too loose.  You're right but, I wanted to expose more of the sails in a furled position than a sail rolled up in a tight mass.  To this novice, I think it looks better for the overall presentation of the model.

Took Tom Lauria's advice and used silkspan for the sails instead of the lightest weight muslin the local fabric store carried. I think this one looks less bulky and when wet, it was much easier to fold and tie to the yard. I believe I will use silkspan on all of my furled sails.

UPDATE: conversed via email with Tom Lauria about one of his posted videos.  He made a suggestion of using silkspan for the furled sails instead of the heavier weight fabric I used in the above picture.  I took his advice and and removed the furled sails and waiting for silkspan material to arrive in the mail Monday.  Let's see the difference.

On my very first model, I put sails on it that were fully deployed.  This time, I decided to put sails on the Vic but have them furled.  This is my first attempt to add them to a ship furled. I didn't want to hide all of the rigging.  I tried this a couple of times and didn't like the sails so tight against the yards and ended up with is pictured below.   I wanted the sails to be a little loose to show some of the sail.  

Working on the bow and found an easier way to thread the rigging around the bowsprit.  Didn't have a needle long enough to thread the rigging around the the bowsprit but ended up gluing the thread to a thin piece of wood and used it as the needle.  Sure made it much easier.

If you know your plan on adding sails to a tall ship (HMS Victory), when should you do it... After the mast is complete and installed on the ship or as you are building the mast and before installing on the ship?

Thanks Kevin.  I've had that build log earmarked to view.  Only got half way through.... large build log.  BUT... great information towards the end.  Thanks for your comments.

13 minutes ago, Kevin said:

i deleted the message after i posted and went to find the book to give the info, but it has been put away, so  juat taken a photo of mine, no doubt thats wrong as well, but i went by mcKays and others, the fact that mine is the caldercraft should make no difference

Kevin, out of curiosity, where do the four of these lines go to on your model?

Kevin, one of the moderators on the website pointed out that he thought the small deadeye was incorrect in the above channel.

Upon further research, I went to John McKay's Anatomy of the ship, The 100-Gun Ship Victory.

He was correct.  The Mantua blueprint is incorrect.

The first picture is from the blueprint (INCORRECT INFO).  The second one is from John McKay's book (CORRECT INFO).

Thanks Kevin

All channels and lanterns installed.

Anyone notice the difference between the number of deadeyes that are on the model's middle channel and what is shown on the blueprints?

Only one of a number of inconsistencies between the model and the instructions/blueprints supplied.

Great point... Thanks John!

19 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Daliab,

 

I assume you are speaking about the cannon barrels not the casks? 

 

For the cannon balls, which guns?  I believe she carried 32, 24 and 12 pounders.  Assuming the 12 pounders on the upper deck, and your scale of 1:78, the diameter of the cannon balls would be about 0.058 inches (1.5mm)   Even the smallest bird shot (number 10) is a little bit too large (0.070 - 1.7mm)    You may be able to find micro marbles (color coated glass) that are close as they are available at 1.5, 1, and 0.5mm diameter.  

Allan

Thank you for the reply Allan.

Sorry, I was talking about the kegs on the deck.  Although not with the kit, I liked something in the wide open space and saw another manufactor's online build use two barrels tied down.

I too was thinking of #10 bird shot but thought those would be too big also.  Now I'm thinking of going to JoAnn's Fabric store and look in their bead department.  Maybe they will have something small that I can use in the place of bird shot.