demonborger

drill + jig

Have you considered just painting the masts?

Mamoli usually gives enough for the lime wood, but the walnut and "boxwood" amount is generally just on the mark or short of it...
 
It's a shame because I actually like the "boxwood" they supply for the second planking around the gunports, it is more orange and less yellow after oiled.

Same thing happened for me. When the gratings are one, and the ships boats, and the staircases, and the cannons, and the rigging and other deck furniture then it becomes an irrelevant quirk.
 
It's because the rectangle hole in the false deck is actually a trapezium. 

What are you trying to say?
 
1: of course the deck is widest where the red arrow is
2: The tops of the bulkheads (i think 7-11, i.e the ones in the middle) are thinner than the other bulkead tops because they will be cut off after your have planked the hull, so you can then plank the inside of them. The other bulkead tops are where the upper decks will go.
 
Between a slightly wider deck and the slightly thinner bulkheads you end up with a gap of a couple of mm.
 
Or if you are worried about the planks bending to one side then measure the gap between them as they go on the two smaller false decks aside of the hole where the gratings will go. 


The gaps on the outside are ok. The problem is to ensure the width right down the middle remains exactly the same as the planking branches off each side of the where the gratings will go.

If you plan on making the gallery windows clear then you should be able to see the entire upper gundeck. So plank the entire length in one effort, with special attention to getting the exposed planks (6 to 12) looking nice and pretty..
 
They way they have it silly, i think they were probably thinking "do the areas under the upper false decks first, add the upper false decks, then plank the exposed part of the lower gundeck" Not sure why though....
 
So plank the entire length of it in one application. Probably start from the centre and plank each way if it gives you a nice look there.

The 1x2mm wood is used on the masts and for the railings. 
 
A wooden wheel would've been nice but in the end it is not that visible in the build anyway (it's behind the dual staircase).
 
I wish a manufacturer produces nice slender wooden belaying pins at that size but sadly they tend to be very fat little things...
 
Mamoli kits use older build techniques (there is almost no laser cut parts other than the bulkheads, false keel and false deck on recent releases). So no fancy gunport templates ala Occre and Caldercraft. The wood quality is ok for some and a bit raggedy for others. Some fittings are really good (the metal anchors are the nicest I've seen).
 
One of the best things about Mamoli is they have some of the most aesthetically beautiful subjects, it's probably their greatest strength. The Freisland and Royal Louis are two of the most beautiful ship model kits on market.
 
Mamoli kits also have a very robust construction designs with a very solid false keel and a lot of bulkheads, so will provide a great base for kit bashing (as many do to avoid the metal gunports..which aren't that bad..   ). 

I did the adjusting during dry fit and then glued everything together 
 
The quarter deck, forecastle and poop deck (or the upper decks generally) can all be adjusted easily at anytime. When you do them their heights are important to give the gallery frames a nice snug fit. Too tight and you will be forced to grind them down a bit, too loose and you will need to pack the gaps (i made them a bit too loose..)
 
With the decks the main things to worry about are:
1) The quarter deck and forecastle deck are curved and not flat. For both that depends largely on the columns and beams. It is important because the galleries are also curved, and that of course it is historical practice. So that should be fine until you get to that stage.
2) The upper gundeck consists of multiple pieces and if you plan to have clear gallery windows so you can see the entire deck then you should try to get it as level as possible (it will probably have a slight elevation which is ok if not excessive), but even then you can only see so much and the columns are more important there.
3) The exposed part of the upper gun deck is the main concern imo as it is what is exposed and where the most trouble will be with the joints. Try to get it as level as possible. but remember the stairs and the cannons under them can hide small imperfections. I ended up using some filler to get the level right at the joints before covering it with the tanganyka planks.
4) getting the gunport level is probably more important again and the carriages have a lot of leeway in sizing options if you use them (they will actually probably need to be lowered on the exposed upper gundeck)
 
 
 
The biggest problem to solve with the decks is to get the columns and beams to be at the correct heights. That can be adjusted after, it might be a tiny bit fiddly at times due to awkward angles and lack of space but not impossible.
 
When you assemble the decks at the stern, do so with the metal galleries dry fitted, also dry fit the banisters, getting the right curvature is important, and ensuring the back isn't lopsided is vital.

I bought this as my second kit and while an expensive item, in Australia it is much cheaper than the larger kits from every other manufacturer thanks to Hobbyco having some very very competitive prices. 
 
 
It does say 1080mm but really that number is quite deceptive. The Mamoli HMS Victory is listed at over 1100mm and the Occre Santisima Trinidad at 1060mm, both at a nominal 1:90 (less said the better about scales)...but when you compare the size of the hull of each the Royal Louis is much much bigger and far more impressive.
 
The kit doesn't include lanterns, and when you mount the arch on the stern if you decide to use the castings then it has to be pinned from the weight. An interesting idea is to attach a lantern to the pins used to secure the arch. You're a fair way off that stage but it is something to consider.


 

There is a few metal parts but it's not that bad imo.
 
Some of the rigging items could've been wood perhaps.
 
 
I don;t mind the metal head rails, the galleries or the fences with the belltowers - they're all quite ok. I could see some making their own head rails if they wanted of course. The metal ships wheel is fair enough imo. My kit had wooden fibre boats rather than metal ones so can't comment there. 
 
One thing to think about is the "box wood" quantities supplied and if it is enough...mine was a few short which had to be supplemented by material form another mamoli kit.

I plank mine using my thighs as a clamp and as a table
 
The surface area of the hull below the wales is absolutely huge, it gives a sense of the size of a 120+ gun first rate much better than the Occre Santisima Trinidad.

What is the best gold spray paint brand?
 
What is the best gold paint (brush application)?
 
What techniques do you use to get the shiniest gold finish?
 
What finish should be applied over gold to keep it looking shiny?
 
Any other decorative metallic paint colours would also be helpful (brass, silver, copper).

I just plank them on the floor in the middle of the room :s 

I bought this as my second kit and while an expensive item, in Australia it is much cheaper than the larger kits from every other manufacturer thanks to Hobbyco having some very very competitive prices. 
 
 
It does say 1080mm but really that number is quite deceptive. The Mamoli HMS Victory is listed at over 1100mm and the Occre Santisima Trinidad at 1060mm, both at a nominal 1:90 (less said the better about scales)...but when you compare the size of the hull of each the Royal Louis is much much bigger and far more impressive.
 
The kit doesn't include lanterns, and when you mount the arch on the stern if you decide to use the castings then it has to be pinned from the weight. An interesting idea is to attach a lantern to the pins used to secure the arch. You're a fair way off that stage but it is something to consider.


 

Yep!!!! I buy almost all my hobby goods from them. Ordered dozens of times, quick dispatch, never had an issue

Yep!!!! I buy almost all my hobby goods from them. Ordered dozens of times, quick dispatch, never had an issue

Very good news!!

Very good news!!

Very good news!!

Very good news!!

I don't think there is a kit of that, or the Endurance. One would think that interest in Antarctic exploration would rank alongside the voyages of other explorers such as Cook and Columbus and even Darwin.

So, Amati makes a 1/72 Vanguard 3rd rate, and a 1/64 Victory 1st rate, and Caldecraft makes a 1/64 Agamemnon 3rd rate and a 1/72 Victory 1st rate.  
I suppose the question is, if a second rate was to be made by each, what scale would it be (hypothetically speaking)?

Obechi - similar to mukaly

Annegre - same as tanganyka pretty much, same application, Billings use this for decking

Bokapi - not sure

Dibetou - a walnut

Manzonia - similar to walnut

Mukaly - yellowish wood, used for deck planking (constructo kits use this)

Red Paduc - not sure but reminds me of sapele

Tanganyka - very very common wood for deck planking, light brownish. Italian companies wood of choice for decking.

 

Mostly these are African woods that are similar colours and properties.

 

Check out Constructo and Billings kits as these woods are supplied with those kits.

Most italian manufacturers and Caldercraft use tanganyka for deck planking

Obechi - similar to mukaly

Annegre - same as tanganyka pretty much, same application, Billings use this for decking

Bokapi - not sure

Dibetou - a walnut

Manzonia - similar to walnut

Mukaly - yellowish wood, used for deck planking (constructo kits use this)

Red Paduc - not sure but reminds me of sapele

Tanganyka - very very common wood for deck planking, light brownish. Italian companies wood of choice for decking.

 

Mostly these are African woods that are similar colours and properties.

 

Check out Constructo and Billings kits as these woods are supplied with those kits.

Most italian manufacturers and Caldercraft use tanganyka for deck planking

Obechi - similar to mukaly

Annegre - same as tanganyka pretty much, same application, Billings use this for decking

Bokapi - not sure

Dibetou - a walnut

Manzonia - similar to walnut

Mukaly - yellowish wood, used for deck planking (constructo kits use this)

Red Paduc - not sure but reminds me of sapele

Tanganyka - very very common wood for deck planking, light brownish. Italian companies wood of choice for decking.

 

Mostly these are African woods that are similar colours and properties.

 

Check out Constructo and Billings kits as these woods are supplied with those kits.

Most italian manufacturers and Caldercraft use tanganyka for deck planking