Beef Wellington

Welcome aboard Bob, and thanks for the interest from all:
 
The upside of social distancing and resting in place is that there seem to be a few more hours in the evening with no commitments.  The remaining keel sections have been installed which is a little bit of a relief as it should provide a little more strength, especially at the sternpost.  The instructions indicate the thin center keel section is a little oversized and can be trimmed at the aft end.  I'm a little concerned that for some reason I needed to shorten this to the extent that the slot for the frame is noticeably narrower than others, which will surely require some attention before frames can be attached (center of 3rd picture below).  Open to suggestions on how this slot should be widened (centered, widen forward or aft).
 

 
Its very difficult to get a sense of size from isolated photos, and it must be said that this barge at 1:24 is far from small.  In fact, from stem to stern its nearly exactly the same length as His Majesties sloop of war Snake, but significantlymore susceptible to damage..
 

Great recovery, one important lesson is that most problems are fixable if you have the courage and ingenuity to try.  The second is recognizing that problems will occur and not getting frustrated.  Looking good!

Welcome aboard Bob, and thanks for the interest from all:
 
The upside of social distancing and resting in place is that there seem to be a few more hours in the evening with no commitments.  The remaining keel sections have been installed which is a little bit of a relief as it should provide a little more strength, especially at the sternpost.  The instructions indicate the thin center keel section is a little oversized and can be trimmed at the aft end.  I'm a little concerned that for some reason I needed to shorten this to the extent that the slot for the frame is noticeably narrower than others, which will surely require some attention before frames can be attached (center of 3rd picture below).  Open to suggestions on how this slot should be widened (centered, widen forward or aft).
 

 
Its very difficult to get a sense of size from isolated photos, and it must be said that this barge at 1:24 is far from small.  In fact, from stem to stern its nearly exactly the same length as His Majesties sloop of war Snake, but significantlymore susceptible to damage..
 

Or you may want to stretch to the hardback edition, a new copy going for $989 on Amazon...

Welcome aboard Bob, and thanks for the interest from all:
 
The upside of social distancing and resting in place is that there seem to be a few more hours in the evening with no commitments.  The remaining keel sections have been installed which is a little bit of a relief as it should provide a little more strength, especially at the sternpost.  The instructions indicate the thin center keel section is a little oversized and can be trimmed at the aft end.  I'm a little concerned that for some reason I needed to shorten this to the extent that the slot for the frame is noticeably narrower than others, which will surely require some attention before frames can be attached (center of 3rd picture below).  Open to suggestions on how this slot should be widened (centered, widen forward or aft).
 

 
Its very difficult to get a sense of size from isolated photos, and it must be said that this barge at 1:24 is far from small.  In fact, from stem to stern its nearly exactly the same length as His Majesties sloop of war Snake, but significantlymore susceptible to damage..
 

I'll join the audience, Jason. This is a beautiful model.

Looking really nice there.  Pretty soon you’ll be catching up to me

Disaster strikes! While bending the second top mahogany plank, I pulled a little too hard and snapped the piece.
not having another pice of mahogany and I really didn’t want to. Order a piece and wait around for it, I attempted a repair of this piece. I tried CA glue first. It would not set. At all. I only succeeded in creating shiny spots on the wood. I then used titebond very lightly. I put a couple clamps on it and let it sit for an hour. I found the joint to be good and tight and straight. I then took my Drexel with a nylon brush wheel and was able to remove the excess titebond and even some of the CA shininess. A little gentle sanding using 320 grit on top of the titebond bottle as my base to help maintain the curve and have a little “give” as I sanded. I am very pleased with the results and will use the piece. You’d never even know it was snapped in two.
I got the other side glued up and the oars started.
 

Or you may want to stretch to the hardback edition, a new copy going for $989 on Amazon...

Middle planks installed.

Small progress-fasle deck glued. Some additional balsa pieces applied, will add more before sanding.
 I do not darw to start sanding yet. Last time whole room was full of dust. Waiting nice weather to do it on balcony-Admirals idea.

Nailing has been completed.  Sanded down the excess and everything seems to have come out nicely.  Going to paint/coverup the few breakthroughs on the inside then move onto next step.


 
sorry for photo quality taken by phone
 

Or you may want to stretch to the hardback edition, a new copy going for $989 on Amazon...

Or you may want to stretch to the hardback edition, a new copy going for $989 on Amazon...

Keel Assembly:
 
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up.  There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
 
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me).  The plans were used to establish the various joint angles  of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these.  This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks.  Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
 

 
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet.  To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter.  Big mistake!!!  The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was  too short.  No option but to restart...
 
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled.  Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts.  Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
 

 
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square).  This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger. 
 
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping.  Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
 
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...

Great start, looking great and very clean so far, based on how you're approaching this kit I'm sure you'll have no difficulty with something a little more complex in the future.

Keel Assembly:
 
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up.  There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
 
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me).  The plans were used to establish the various joint angles  of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these.  This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks.  Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
 

 
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet.  To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter.  Big mistake!!!  The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was  too short.  No option but to restart...
 
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled.  Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts.  Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
 

 
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square).  This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger. 
 
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping.  Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
 
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...

Finally, now it start to look like a really nice ship... sorry I mean Slop-brig.
 
Me and my airbrush are not friends yet so it took a couple of hours to do this and i also sprayed the building stand just to make it abit more natural on my shelf when not Working on her. 
 
What do you think?

Good afternoon all
 
Well after reading so many excellent logs for some fantastic models, I have decided to build my own and share the experience...
 
After a lot of reading research I decided to go with the Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon in 1:64 scale, please don't ask me for a reason,,, whilst reading through a lot I really liked the look of her, the more I read the more I liked,,, in addition I also liked the look of HMS Diana,, Diana will come later...
 
Whilst I am not a beginner when It comes to modelling, I am a beginner when it comes to wood and ships, so please shout out when you see where I may be going wrong… This log hopefully captures my experiences both with kit and what I do to resolve any issues, I create and resolve
 
So here goes,,
 
These are the photos for the checking of the main keel and the bulkheads. As I planned on cutting into the bulkheads I required them to be fairly easy to put on and take off



 

Maybe we should establish a support group?
 
"Hello, my name is Michael, and I'm unable to build kits as intended!"
 
Anyways, todays harvest, a little work on the funnels. Funnel caps, the whistle platform and the center tube leading up to the ship's whistle. More tubework ahead!
 

Hi all
 
Got HMS Cruiser from stock clearance sale few weeks ago with really good peice (excuse for Admiral). It has been standing there for weeks now and decided to start with it.
 
My first build was(still ongoing) Terror by Occre. Somehow Cruiser cought my eye with natural finish apperance-i really liked it. Also its advertised as so called simple build, so would be hopefully simple and fast build.  So plan is to just sand and varnish it. Maybe paint or stain cannons cause plywood edges are visible.
One other reason why i like it is that i seems big. Its little longer than Terror but a lot more wider.
 
About the kit.
Box is nice but inside is full of wood bust from cnc. Also the lines are still full of dust. First thing i used vacuum to clean most of it but eouting lines are now hardened and wont come out easily.
 
Cnc part are nicely cut, didnt notice any errors so far. 
Fitting seem a lot better than Occre.
 
Wood is good quality except planks-some quanitu has quite “hairy” edges after cutting. With little sanding it should come off.
 
Instructions at first seem scary-7 sheets of drawings and few pages of text. Photo instructions make it mich easier. BUT taken into account experience with Terror and also im civil engineer then after checking i realised that drawings have much more info than photo instructions. Only problem is that they are so big-hard to keep them anywhere when you dont have workshop(like me).
One problem with instructions is that none of the fittings have markings so it takes some time to find exact one and always double check to be sure.
 
This build will be easier and also harder than Terror. Easier cause not so kany deck fitting but harder vause there isnt finished detail build log. 
 
About the start.
 
Dryfitted bulkwarks on keel and they fit like a charm. Very little sanding needed. I also like that its 5mm plywood so it can bare little more handling.
Glued bulkwarks to place and used cnc cut deck to position eberything to right place.
With the experience from Terror i now look 3-4 step ahead and check how other parts fit also(keels etc).
Problems that other builds had havent occured yet.

Keel Assembly:
 
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up.  There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
 
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me).  The plans were used to establish the various joint angles  of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these.  This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks.  Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
 

 
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet.  To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter.  Big mistake!!!  The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was  too short.  No option but to restart...
 
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled.  Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts.  Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
 

 
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square).  This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger. 
 
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping.  Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
 
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...

Keel Assembly:
 
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up.  There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
 
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me).  The plans were used to establish the various joint angles  of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these.  This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks.  Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
 

 
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet.  To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter.  Big mistake!!!  The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was  too short.  No option but to restart...
 
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled.  Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts.  Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
 

 
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square).  This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger. 
 
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping.  Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
 
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...

Keel Assembly:
 
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up.  There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
 
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me).  The plans were used to establish the various joint angles  of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these.  This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks.  Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
 

 
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet.  To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter.  Big mistake!!!  The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was  too short.  No option but to restart...
 
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled.  Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts.  Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
 

 
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square).  This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger. 
 
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping.  Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
 
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...

Keel Assembly:
 
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up.  There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
 
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me).  The plans were used to establish the various joint angles  of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these.  This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks.  Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
 

 
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet.  To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter.  Big mistake!!!  The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was  too short.  No option but to restart...
 
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled.  Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts.  Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
 

 
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square).  This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger. 
 
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping.  Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
 
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...