Beef Wellington

Thanks Bob and Ian.
Bob:Man I hear you on that one
Ian: I will try that next time, worth a try. Thanks
The wrinkles were driving me crazy, so I undid the sheet lines allowing me to hold the sail, then I painted the sail with water then using my portable ironing board( !/2" x 4" x 8" piece of basswood wrapped in dish cloth) I carefully ironed again avoiding the seams. Looks much better now.
 I have lived my whole life hardly ever ironing clothes and I'll wear clothes that have sat in the dryer for a week and don't worry about it. Now here I am spending an hour of my life on the edge of going for a drink and ironing a sail. What is it about this hobby?
Anyway here are some new pictures:




 

Good Morning all, well it's back to work Tuesday(in the shipyard that is!) and I have some progress to show. First of all a big Thanks for all the likes and comments. I've been busy with sails lately and the incredible amount of work they take, that's my excuse for such a small update!!

Here I am making a zip seizing to be used for the corner re-reinforcements of the sprit sail. I used .75 mm rope wrapped around a #52 (approx 1 mm) drill bit then coated with diluted Weldbond glue. Once dry I used a razor blade to cut one segment off at a time then installed in the sail.

Here is the finished sail, wires were installed into the two outside edges to help aid in shaping later on
 

A close up showing the corner reinforcement, a detail that won't be noticed but something I wanted to try. The outside diameter of the ring is approximately 3 mm.
 

The traveller, hooks were hand made and the ends have since been painted 

Here is how she looks, it does not look this wrinkled in real life. I will say, though, never ever ever wash and dry sails it does not end up well!!
 
I have started the other two sails, just need to attach the spars to them and they should be ready to install. 
You all have a Good Day

Good Evening All. Thanks for all the visits, comments and likes it is all really appreciated.
 This post is about the final stages of the ship's boat, I won't bother you with a bunch of chatter and explanations, however, if you have any questions please ask. I will be happy to answer, even though it maybe just made up.
 Here we go:
 





 
 There are a few flaws but as they say "she is good enough for me and the girls I go with".
 Next up is the bowsprit
 
 See You soon

And some more:
 
Installing knightheads( 3 x 3 mm) and top timbers
 

 
There are waterways to be installed, mine kept splitting on me so I spread some ca on them to strengthen them, and as you can see it bled though to the good side. Time to make new ones.
 

 
Then I decided rather than cutting out notches for all the top timbers in the waterway and going through more frustration I will install them on top of the waterway so..............
 

 
then I decided it was time for a change...the windlass. This was made from cherry turned on the lathe what you see here is the fourth attempt, I also replaced the supports and made them from cherry also.
 
This showing the filed down nail used to make the holes square. This is an idea I got from DocBlake.
 

 
Gluing .5 x 1 mm strips onto drum
 

 
The finished product, still needs one or two more coats of wipe on poly. The fancy ends are inspired by B.E.'s cathead decoration on his Pegasus

 
Thanks for stopping by
 
 

Good Morning All, Thanks to all who have visited, for the likes and the gracious comments. Much appreciated.
 Not a heck of a lot going on but having fun doing it, just a few pictures showing what';s going on:
 
The windless with it's poles(is there a proper name for these?)

 
The next few pictures are showing the process I used to make some demizanas

 
 
This one is showing the tools I used

 
This is showing what I have been mainly busy at this week, making shooter glasses. Normally I wouldn't show this but being we are drinking rum out of these so I thought it was a little nautical. It is a 60th birthday party with a Jamaican theme, hence the colors and Appeltons rum.
 

 
Here is the final demizanas, the small one still needs some refinement. They are about 30 and 10 mm tall.
 

 
And to end with, I have the port side deck rail installed and the top timbers re-installed. Now onto the starboard side
 

 
Thanks again for stopping in and have a Good One

Yes, indeed, I had the marks at the rabbet a smidge too high. I think they are parallel now. Easier to see in a photo than staring at the model itself. ..
Thanks again, Druxey.

Thanks, everyone, for this help with the wing transom knees. 
I have completed the gundeck waterways, ready for installation. I have pondered whether I can get these glued and clamped within the 5 minute "open time" for Titebond Original glue. I consulted with the ship cat, and she agrees that it would be risky. So a trip to the store to find some Titebond III, with an "open time" of 10 minutes. Good thing to have a smart ship cat.
 
Mark

Thanks Martin, Limewood is really only of any use as  first planking on a double planked hull, for any sort of  finished wood items it is useless. Limewood dowel is also very suspect particularly in longer lengths, warping is a perennial problem. I do wish kit manufacturers would be more selective in the purposes for which it is provided.
Bowsprit iron re-fit
I realised that I had fitted the bowsprit ring at the stem at the wrong angle, pointing down rather than upwards as indicated on the Medway boat.
The original was a bit tight anyway so I took the opportunity to re-make the item with a slightly longer stem. Again I used silver solder to fabricate the ring.
2530
Deadeyes and Chainplates.
The supplied Deadeyes are of 3.86mm Ø which equates to a full scale of 7.29"Ø. By comparison the Topmast Deadeyes of a 14 gun sloop such as Pegasus are 7"Ø.
According to Steel the deadeyes for larger boats such as carried by ships of 110 - 64 guns were of 5" Ø =2.64mm at scale; and for below that (ie smaller Longboats) thimbles were listed.
As the Medway long boat model which is the basis of our model  had deadeyes I have decided to go with Chuck's Syren 3mm versions.
Chainplates
The instruction indicate the use of 28 gauge wire to make these.
For those who may not know, the higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire. 28 gauge is the thinnest of the kit supplied wire and equates on the AWG scale to  0.32mm Ø wire. In practice the kit wire is 0.40mm.
I formed them as suggested in the instructions but I silver soldered along the join as a more secure method. I also formed the Chainplates for the Shrouds with two eyes so that the deadeyes can be hooked into the plates as with the contemporary 'Medway' Longboat.
It took a bit of thinking about how to attach the hooks to the Deadeyes, and the best size of hooks to use to avoid an overscale look.
I finally settled on Syren 3mm brass etched hooks. 28 gauge wire was passed thro' the hook eye and secured with a spot of silver solder; the wire was then passed around the deadeye, nipped and secured with a spot of ca.

2513(2)
These were fiddly little things to make and the combined chainplate/ deadeye strop is certainly the easier option.
Still some fettlin' to do to finish them off.
Fairly straightforward to attach the chainplates to the hull, just need to ensure that the pins go into the frames to secure.

2527

2544

2555

2567
 
Just about ready for rigging now.
 
B.E.
 
 

Preparations for the second planking
 
The raw hull was now treated repeatedly with filler and sanding to create smooth lines. To check those lines I relied on the plans of Bellona with cross references to Victory  using plans from the two books of the 'Anatomy of the ship' - series.
 
The platform in front of the beak head bulkhead was planked.
 
The plywood piece intended to cover the lower counter broke in two while I tried to fit it into the required concave form - despite the previous soaking in water. I then rebuilt the counter with some leftover planks and covered it with a second planking, leaving space for the two missing stern ports. Those were placed according to the Bellona plans.
 
While building the skeleton for the side galleries I made some alterations. First I decided to plank the hull fully and thus set the side galleries onto the second planking contrary to the manual. This follows the method used on the prototype and will need some adjustments of the  side gallery parts.
Those two side gallery frames which are directly below the windows were hollowed out into open frames in order to (hopefully) give some additional depth to the side galleries (and some space for the officers using them). I also doubled up the rips which will later determine the form of the gallery windows of the officers wardroom. The kits lower gallery is almost flat and I try to get a more convex form as seen on the Bellona. Similar adjustments will be necessary for the poop deck to form the upper part of the transom. Some problems will arise with the decorations, for the Bellerophon as they are made as three white metal pieces, which I will have to bend somehow...
 
All the gun ports without lids were framed because the second planking will run over the frames, finishing flush with the openings. Some of those frames were made up to three times because trials showed not enough headroom for the guns when placing the frames perpendicular to the planking. The frames were cut to give horizontal upper and lower sills.
 
Finally the keel and the stem where glued in place, leaving the sternpost off. It will be added after sanding the second planking.
 
 
first deck planking

 
 
lower counter first planking with marked stern ports

 
 
second planking on lower counter - altered side gallery frames also visible as well as the 3 lengthened rips which will determine the convex form of the transom


 
 
 
rough gun port frames in place
The wood strip was a bit too small even when setting it onto the inside planking. As the opening will later be painted I can use some filler to cover the gaps.

 
 
her nice lines are starting to show
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ultimately, I decided to work in more manageable thirds.  This top-most segment is the most important one; It allows  me to gauge the angle of the joint, and the subsequent run of the bow line.  You can see, in these pictures, that there is a slight depression at the joint.  In black plastic, and from most angles, this is not apparent at all.  A little putty, though, to fair out the surface, and then it won't be apparent at all - even when painted.  Also, bear in mind, that all of this will be heavily overshadowed by the bowsprit and head timbers, etc.



I'll fit the middle, hawser segment, so that the stem edge neatly aligns with the stem edge of the top piece; when I have a straight edge, from one piece to the next, that's when I know to stop fairing and fitting (because, previously, when I ground away the stem - I then straightened the edge).
 
Once all three segments are glued in place, I'll flatten the interior back surface of the joint, and re-enforce the joint with sheet styrene.
 
Lastly, I will devise an angled sanding block to true-up the stem joint, so that the stem pieces - once re-attached - run  parallell with each other and perpendicular to the table, so that the hull halves glue together nicely and easily, at the stem.
 
 

Looking good, Mark. However, is it the angle of the bow photo, or does the wale appear to widen at the bow?

After exploring how to shape with machines the hooked scarphs for the wales, I have determined that the geometry changes for each piece, and that it would be more effective to cut them by hand. I then recalled Gary (garyshipwright) installing wales for his beautiful model of HMS Alfred. (I have tried to attach a link to his site, but it appears to go to the end rather than to the relevant pages. It is somewhere around page 4).
 
Gary temporarily attached a batten above the wale, to which he clamped the upper strakes  for a fair run. Subsequent lower strakes were clamped to the upper strake. It seems like a good idea, and I will try it. I also see that Gary laid up the wales in two layers, practicing on the first layer. I will see how well I can cut and bend 8 ½" thick pieces before deciding if I will do this in two layers as well. Getting in some practice on these complex pieces makes it feel less daunting...
 
Gary, I haven't seen a post from you for a while, hope you see this!
 
I tried string on the port side for fairing and decided that the tape gave me something to draw against. Now that I am determined to cut each piece to fit, I will want to draw the individual parts on the model sides to know where I am going. The tape also helped me visualize whether the two sides are the same.
 
Mark
 
 
 

Soooooo some more progress: port side done!
 

The lids are attached firmly and provide some extra protection for the cannons. The lanyards might be a bit overscale but I'm going to leave it as it is. I'm happy with the results!
 

Love what you've achieved with the masts, cleats and tops, should all look stunning all in place.  The deadeye plates do look convincing, nicely done.

I spent a good deal of time trying to decide what to do for my next project. The choices ranged through scratch builds and modified kits, cross sections and full ships, and even some thought about doing a plastic or resin warship. In the end, I quickly rejected the modern ships because I just don't think that at my age (76) with arthritic hands and diminishing eyesight, I could do justice to anything in those very small scales.
 
A framed scratch build had strong appeal, but ,as I've explained in other logs, after doing the Triton cross section, I concluded that without power tools (I have nothing but a Dremel) a full framed model was just more than I wished to take on. That left the possibility of another cross section. I was drawn to the Admiralty Models Echo project and the Granado cross section project. The Granado held particular appeal, both because of it's unique subject and the wonderful models that had been turned out by Rusty, Grant and Mobbsie. I was almost set to do this when I realized, while doing the Cheerful rigging, just how much I enjoy rigging and would miss doing it on a cross section.
 
All of that led me to look at the build logs and great models of Granado done by Joe V. and Timmo. I was really impressed at what could be done with the kit with some modifications. Thus, the choice was made.
 
I now have the kit and the AOTS Granado book and I'm trying to figure out just what I'm going to do. I've not done a Caldercraft kit before or any kit with the ply gunport strips. Nor have I done any model with double planking in many years. Some things are clear: I will replace the kit wood with boxwood for the second upper hull planking and holly for the deck planking, as I've done on my recent builds. I'm still undecided as to what to do for the second lower hull planking. I'm inclined to use holly as I did on Fair American, rather than painting some other wood white, but this would also involve replacing the kit's stem, keel and sternpost parts with scratch built holly parts at the outset of the build. A quick decision is in order.
 
I'm looking forward to getting started, and hope that you'll follow along with me.
 
Bob

Thank you guys, the answer to the jdbondy question: See the picture in my post dated 4 August. There is an aid tool which I use to make networks. After thread stretching is important thoroughly to overlap the netting with diluted PVA glue. After drying is possible to cut the netting into the required shape.
Work is now slower, thanks to my own stupidity, I often have to make some parts agani and again. Some pictures from lower mast production for today.

To Ilhan: Parts of hammock cranec are made from different messing tubes and profiles. Individual parts are then soldered together with silver soldering paste.
Installation of hammock nettings and swivel guns - the last part of the hull at this moment. Now I am going making the masts, tops, yards etc.

Finally finished the step. 
Small tip in between: If all sides are stabilised with CA, one can cut 0,25 slices with the resin saw from a wooden 4 mm batten :-)

What that for? For the sheaves in the mast :-)
And that brings us back on the track. Foretop and fore topmast done.




And here compared with the "original"


Especially the wrong angle is corrected :-)


And the new detailing. The cheat in the heel is corrected, sheaves and a decent lock are fitted and the cap is made smaller, as it was the same size as the main cap.


XXXDAn
 

Another small update; the funnel and steam waste pipe are coming along. the spider bands for hold-down/support chains and bands to imitate the collapsing section still to be added.  The funnel is being made by the same guy who made the screw - a bit of a wiz at metal!

cheers
 
Pat

Fitting out
With the spars completed the iron work for the Bowsprit is put into place.

4292
A little bit of fiddling to get the position right and give the Bowsprit a slight downward tilt. A shallow notch was cut into the first Thwart to assist a secure fix.

4274

4284

2377

4286

2418

2402

2413

2410

2371
Now back to the exterior to fabricate the deadeye chainplates.
 
B.E.
 

Hi Guys!
 
So it has been a while since I've posted here.
 
I made some progress.
 
I did some weathering, added the transome, refitted the lanyards for hthe gunport lids, added the lids and some more
 
One question, what do you guys think of the lanyard attachment to the lid? Does it look ok? Any tips? 

It's been a while again but I look at it as I have a permanent Dr.'s note!
Progress on the tops. Made the rails. Began tapering/shaping the top masts. This is how I mark pieces that are eight sided like these are in places. Shows me exactly where the edges need to be. I started out scraping them with a razor blade. Just getting this far causes me to have excruciating pain throughout my body especially in my back and shoulders. I intended to keep going a bit longer but our cat Izzy decided she wasn't going to let me. She got right on my lap and would not stay down and out my way so we retired to my chair for the evening.
 
More to come soon,
Jesse
 

hi david,
 
i used a 1mm drill bit. made lots of holes and then used mini files to finish the job.  took time but in the end i felt it was worth it. your deck is great. thank you for sharing the deck jigs.
all the best
mort

Great to see you back Mark and I hope all remains well for you.  Nice adaption to the tool - now that is thinking outside the box.  Like Dan, I tried the flap wheels, but just could not consistently keep that "light touch' he mentions - may have to look at something similar to what you have done
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for the likes and comments...
 
It's been too long since this was updated... so this is a short update about a pesky, self-induced problem.
 
Between doing things around the house and yard, numerous medical visits for both Janet and myself and trying to sort my brain out and what's what, I've been pounding my head over a problem.   If we go way back to cutting out the frames, I put some "tits" on the frames to allow for positive placement of the deck clamps (I think that's right... brain fart).  But.. I've forgot how I was going to deal with them when I did the inner hull planking.   My bad... and my notes are no help.   
 
Here's one frame.. those "tits" are highlighted by the red arrows.

 
After much angst, occasionally thinking of just burning her in the stocks, I started to hand sand them with a thin piece of scrap sanding stick, I punted.   The sanding stick was taking forever and I wasn't pleased with the lack of control and also damage from my fat fingers.   
 
Here's the area I was dealing with... you can see a couple of the offending pieces highlighted in red.

 
What I finally came up with is the below tool..  a felt buffing piece with some sticky-back sandpaper attached. I'm using my mini engraving tool as it's small, lightweight, and the lowest speed is a good 3000 RPM less than a Dremel.   It seems to be doing the job.   Once I've got the sanding done, I'll finish the planking.
 

 
Anyway, I'm still at this and hope to have another update as soon as time permits.