Beef Wellington

The ship is looking really nice on the stand Nils.  Looking at the lines, did you find the planking more straightforward on this hull shape?  The planks look to lie very nicely along the hull lines.

Starboard side is also done!  A huge milestone reached for this build. I have to admit I have to get used to the look now after she has been so long without her gun port lids. But I'm happy with the results. Needs some cleaning up here and there but that will be taken care of when I feel like it.
 
Hope you guys like it!
 

The ship is looking really nice on the stand Nils.  Looking at the lines, did you find the planking more straightforward on this hull shape?  The planks look to lie very nicely along the hull lines.

The ship is looking really nice on the stand Nils.  Looking at the lines, did you find the planking more straightforward on this hull shape?  The planks look to lie very nicely along the hull lines.

Update :
 
planking completed, except for that of the the uppest stern grating deck.....,  one of the side rails put on, but not complete yet, stand stained in cherry wood color, and bow- and stern post fitted....
 
Nils
 

the pencil-line marking (waterline) is marked all around, the underwater ship wil prbably be painted white later on....

 
 

 
 

 
 

Minesweepers in the Firth of Forth with North Berwick the Bass Rock and Berwick Law in the background
The picture now hangs in a house within sight of the location.
Jim

Some other pictures of lower masts (woolding hoops and wooldings, iron hoops).

After turning my attention back to deck fittings and furniture, the first item was to make up the guns. There are six 3 pounders (very small ). I decided not to use the carriages and white metal barrel castings provided by the Lumberyard (the barrels were too large when compared to the plans), and substituted carriages and brass barrels from Syren. I used the 1:64 6 pounders (1 11/64" barrels) which fit the plans almost perfectly. I made one modification. The trunnions appeared too small, but I did not want to get involved with trying to drill through the brass barrels to add larger trunnions, so I added tiny bits of tubing to build them up.
 
After making up the carriage kits, I added the needed eyebolts and ring bolts from blackened brass. I also added the quoin handles, using the smallest brass belaying pins that I had on hand. 
 
I then started to rig the guns with their breech ropes and tackles. For the tackles I am using Syren 1/8" (3mm) blocks, which are the smallest that I can handle at this point, and Syren .008 line. After rigging two of them, I had had enough, so decided to mount them and move on to something else for a while. After mounting, I added separate rope coils to the tackle lines.
 
Bob
 
 
 

For a while HMS HOOD had a catapult fitted at her stern 
Here is a Fairey 111F getting airborn.
Jim 

Hi Graham. Thanks for commenting. They were both of 'my era'. RN personel had a soft spot for the 'Shack' , they used to drop mail to us.
Here HMS Daring recieved her drop, somewhere in the Indian Ocean
jim

Alright, well, with just a little fudgery (Mirriam Webster: generous application of Squadron White putty, and re-scribing as needed, and a little reconcilliation of the wale edges) I think this is all going to work out just fine.
 
Interestingly, to me at least, the hull lines faired better below the lower main wale than expected.  The plank seams will need to be filled and re-scribed, but the run of the hull is pretty okay.  Definitely, working well over-size and in segments was the way to go; I was able to make micro-adjustments, along the way, without feeling the pressure of getting the joint angle and run of the hull correct in one go. Eighty grit paper works the plastic pretty quickly, so mistakes can happen before you know it, when you over-reach.  And, it seems, that there is ample extra material to plumb the stem without losing any of the width that I actually need.
 
Good day for the project.  The success of the whole thing was riding on this, so I am energized!
 

Hope to see some more progress Don, really nice start you have here.

Hope to see some more progress Don, really nice start you have here.

Hope to see some more progress Don, really nice start you have here.

Good Morning All, I trust and hope you all had happy holidays and are now back to the reality of life once again.
 I took the last five days off of my Trabaccolo build to do a little work on my neglected Pegasus, she was very happy to be in the shipyard once again.
First up was fairing the hull, sorry no pictures, then was to install the plywood gun deck. Before doing this supports were required as per so many other logs such as Mike's(Landlubber Mike). So you can see in the pictures how I accomplished this using some 3 x 3mm posts and 1.5 x 5 mm planks.
 

 
Next was the infamous plywood gunport pieces, I had little problems with these which still worries me  . I soaked them for about an hour then bent them using a curling iron. I needed to move them approx 5mm forward as one of the oar holes was being blocked by a bulkhead, but other than that it went smoothly.
 

 
While waiting for glue and paint to dry I thought I would put together the cannon carriages. Many have complained about the Amati carriages , mostly about the quality of the plywood. I am thinking they must have changed their stock as I found these ones to be quite durable and easy to work with, you can be the judge as to how they look. Amati does include 18 carriages and 16 cannons, I'm thinking these extra carriages will work fine as stocking stuffers next Christmas or even mount some chocolate in them and they could be a Easter bunny thing, at any rate they will not go to waste.
A point to note is Do Not paint the bulkheads black above the deck if you wish to paint red later    . Mine took a minimum of ten coats to cover then I just quit.
Here I am using the mill with the sensitive drilling attachment to drill the axles for the pins that hold the trucks on, then it was on to assembling.
 

 
A little out of order but here you can see the result of moving the gun port sides ahead by 5 mm. The stem post and bowsprit are not glued in place, looks so good I feel like making the real bowsprit now.
 

 
And here she is ready for a battle, well kind of, and loaded up for next stage of deck planking
 

 
Here the planking has started using the kit supplied planks. I decided on a four plank shift using 120 mm planks. I built the aft bits as they are noted for not fitting properly mine required minor adjustments and fit perfectly. So with the gunport sides causing no problems and now the bits fitting good I am really getting concerned about my usual not so good luck.  
 In my excitement to start planking I forgot I should have built the hatches first, I don't think this will pose too much of a problem, I will carry on as is and see what happens later with the hatches.
 

 
Have a Good Day

Thanks Bob and Ian.
Bob:Man I hear you on that one
Ian: I will try that next time, worth a try. Thanks
The wrinkles were driving me crazy, so I undid the sheet lines allowing me to hold the sail, then I painted the sail with water then using my portable ironing board( !/2" x 4" x 8" piece of basswood wrapped in dish cloth) I carefully ironed again avoiding the seams. Looks much better now.
 I have lived my whole life hardly ever ironing clothes and I'll wear clothes that have sat in the dryer for a week and don't worry about it. Now here I am spending an hour of my life on the edge of going for a drink and ironing a sail. What is it about this hobby?
Anyway here are some new pictures:




 

Good Morning all, well it's back to work Tuesday(in the shipyard that is!) and I have some progress to show. First of all a big Thanks for all the likes and comments. I've been busy with sails lately and the incredible amount of work they take, that's my excuse for such a small update!!

Here I am making a zip seizing to be used for the corner re-reinforcements of the sprit sail. I used .75 mm rope wrapped around a #52 (approx 1 mm) drill bit then coated with diluted Weldbond glue. Once dry I used a razor blade to cut one segment off at a time then installed in the sail.

Here is the finished sail, wires were installed into the two outside edges to help aid in shaping later on
 

A close up showing the corner reinforcement, a detail that won't be noticed but something I wanted to try. The outside diameter of the ring is approximately 3 mm.
 

The traveller, hooks were hand made and the ends have since been painted 

Here is how she looks, it does not look this wrinkled in real life. I will say, though, never ever ever wash and dry sails it does not end up well!!
 
I have started the other two sails, just need to attach the spars to them and they should be ready to install. 
You all have a Good Day

Good Evening All. Thanks for all the visits, comments and likes it is all really appreciated.
 This post is about the final stages of the ship's boat, I won't bother you with a bunch of chatter and explanations, however, if you have any questions please ask. I will be happy to answer, even though it maybe just made up.
 Here we go:
 





 
 There are a few flaws but as they say "she is good enough for me and the girls I go with".
 Next up is the bowsprit
 
 See You soon

And some more:
 
Installing knightheads( 3 x 3 mm) and top timbers
 

 
There are waterways to be installed, mine kept splitting on me so I spread some ca on them to strengthen them, and as you can see it bled though to the good side. Time to make new ones.
 

 
Then I decided rather than cutting out notches for all the top timbers in the waterway and going through more frustration I will install them on top of the waterway so..............
 

 
then I decided it was time for a change...the windlass. This was made from cherry turned on the lathe what you see here is the fourth attempt, I also replaced the supports and made them from cherry also.
 
This showing the filed down nail used to make the holes square. This is an idea I got from DocBlake.
 

 
Gluing .5 x 1 mm strips onto drum
 

 
The finished product, still needs one or two more coats of wipe on poly. The fancy ends are inspired by B.E.'s cathead decoration on his Pegasus

 
Thanks for stopping by
 
 

Good Morning All, Thanks to all who have visited, for the likes and the gracious comments. Much appreciated.
 Not a heck of a lot going on but having fun doing it, just a few pictures showing what';s going on:
 
The windless with it's poles(is there a proper name for these?)

 
The next few pictures are showing the process I used to make some demizanas

 
 
This one is showing the tools I used

 
This is showing what I have been mainly busy at this week, making shooter glasses. Normally I wouldn't show this but being we are drinking rum out of these so I thought it was a little nautical. It is a 60th birthday party with a Jamaican theme, hence the colors and Appeltons rum.
 

 
Here is the final demizanas, the small one still needs some refinement. They are about 30 and 10 mm tall.
 

 
And to end with, I have the port side deck rail installed and the top timbers re-installed. Now onto the starboard side
 

 
Thanks again for stopping in and have a Good One

Yes, indeed, I had the marks at the rabbet a smidge too high. I think they are parallel now. Easier to see in a photo than staring at the model itself. ..
Thanks again, Druxey.

Thanks, everyone, for this help with the wing transom knees. 
I have completed the gundeck waterways, ready for installation. I have pondered whether I can get these glued and clamped within the 5 minute "open time" for Titebond Original glue. I consulted with the ship cat, and she agrees that it would be risky. So a trip to the store to find some Titebond III, with an "open time" of 10 minutes. Good thing to have a smart ship cat.
 
Mark

Thanks Martin, Limewood is really only of any use as  first planking on a double planked hull, for any sort of  finished wood items it is useless. Limewood dowel is also very suspect particularly in longer lengths, warping is a perennial problem. I do wish kit manufacturers would be more selective in the purposes for which it is provided.
Bowsprit iron re-fit
I realised that I had fitted the bowsprit ring at the stem at the wrong angle, pointing down rather than upwards as indicated on the Medway boat.
The original was a bit tight anyway so I took the opportunity to re-make the item with a slightly longer stem. Again I used silver solder to fabricate the ring.
2530
Deadeyes and Chainplates.
The supplied Deadeyes are of 3.86mm Ø which equates to a full scale of 7.29"Ø. By comparison the Topmast Deadeyes of a 14 gun sloop such as Pegasus are 7"Ø.
According to Steel the deadeyes for larger boats such as carried by ships of 110 - 64 guns were of 5" Ø =2.64mm at scale; and for below that (ie smaller Longboats) thimbles were listed.
As the Medway long boat model which is the basis of our model  had deadeyes I have decided to go with Chuck's Syren 3mm versions.
Chainplates
The instruction indicate the use of 28 gauge wire to make these.
For those who may not know, the higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire. 28 gauge is the thinnest of the kit supplied wire and equates on the AWG scale to  0.32mm Ø wire. In practice the kit wire is 0.40mm.
I formed them as suggested in the instructions but I silver soldered along the join as a more secure method. I also formed the Chainplates for the Shrouds with two eyes so that the deadeyes can be hooked into the plates as with the contemporary 'Medway' Longboat.
It took a bit of thinking about how to attach the hooks to the Deadeyes, and the best size of hooks to use to avoid an overscale look.
I finally settled on Syren 3mm brass etched hooks. 28 gauge wire was passed thro' the hook eye and secured with a spot of silver solder; the wire was then passed around the deadeye, nipped and secured with a spot of ca.

2513(2)
These were fiddly little things to make and the combined chainplate/ deadeye strop is certainly the easier option.
Still some fettlin' to do to finish them off.
Fairly straightforward to attach the chainplates to the hull, just need to ensure that the pins go into the frames to secure.

2527

2544

2555

2567
 
Just about ready for rigging now.
 
B.E.
 
 

Preparations for the second planking
 
The raw hull was now treated repeatedly with filler and sanding to create smooth lines. To check those lines I relied on the plans of Bellona with cross references to Victory  using plans from the two books of the 'Anatomy of the ship' - series.
 
The platform in front of the beak head bulkhead was planked.
 
The plywood piece intended to cover the lower counter broke in two while I tried to fit it into the required concave form - despite the previous soaking in water. I then rebuilt the counter with some leftover planks and covered it with a second planking, leaving space for the two missing stern ports. Those were placed according to the Bellona plans.
 
While building the skeleton for the side galleries I made some alterations. First I decided to plank the hull fully and thus set the side galleries onto the second planking contrary to the manual. This follows the method used on the prototype and will need some adjustments of the  side gallery parts.
Those two side gallery frames which are directly below the windows were hollowed out into open frames in order to (hopefully) give some additional depth to the side galleries (and some space for the officers using them). I also doubled up the rips which will later determine the form of the gallery windows of the officers wardroom. The kits lower gallery is almost flat and I try to get a more convex form as seen on the Bellona. Similar adjustments will be necessary for the poop deck to form the upper part of the transom. Some problems will arise with the decorations, for the Bellerophon as they are made as three white metal pieces, which I will have to bend somehow...
 
All the gun ports without lids were framed because the second planking will run over the frames, finishing flush with the openings. Some of those frames were made up to three times because trials showed not enough headroom for the guns when placing the frames perpendicular to the planking. The frames were cut to give horizontal upper and lower sills.
 
Finally the keel and the stem where glued in place, leaving the sternpost off. It will be added after sanding the second planking.
 
 
first deck planking

 
 
lower counter first planking with marked stern ports

 
 
second planking on lower counter - altered side gallery frames also visible as well as the 3 lengthened rips which will determine the convex form of the transom


 
 
 
rough gun port frames in place
The wood strip was a bit too small even when setting it onto the inside planking. As the opening will later be painted I can use some filler to cover the gaps.

 
 
her nice lines are starting to show
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ultimately, I decided to work in more manageable thirds.  This top-most segment is the most important one; It allows  me to gauge the angle of the joint, and the subsequent run of the bow line.  You can see, in these pictures, that there is a slight depression at the joint.  In black plastic, and from most angles, this is not apparent at all.  A little putty, though, to fair out the surface, and then it won't be apparent at all - even when painted.  Also, bear in mind, that all of this will be heavily overshadowed by the bowsprit and head timbers, etc.



I'll fit the middle, hawser segment, so that the stem edge neatly aligns with the stem edge of the top piece; when I have a straight edge, from one piece to the next, that's when I know to stop fairing and fitting (because, previously, when I ground away the stem - I then straightened the edge).
 
Once all three segments are glued in place, I'll flatten the interior back surface of the joint, and re-enforce the joint with sheet styrene.
 
Lastly, I will devise an angled sanding block to true-up the stem joint, so that the stem pieces - once re-attached - run  parallell with each other and perpendicular to the table, so that the hull halves glue together nicely and easily, at the stem.