Beef Wellington

Arriving late I see, but, at least I'll see the finish.  Lovely boat Mobbsie and great artistic choice for the woods and colours.  Looks huge!

Arriving late I see, but, at least I'll see the finish.  Lovely boat Mobbsie and great artistic choice for the woods and colours.  Looks huge!

Arriving late I see, but, at least I'll see the finish.  Lovely boat Mobbsie and great artistic choice for the woods and colours.  Looks huge!

Arriving late I see, but, at least I'll see the finish.  Lovely boat Mobbsie and great artistic choice for the woods and colours.  Looks huge!

Count me in as well, great start!
I think you are referring to HMS Belfast, a Town class light cruiser which has a very storied history being also involved in the sinking of the Tirpitz.  Her largest guns are only 6in , so maybe 'big gun warship' is a little bit of a stretch 
 

Hello, Gaetan.
If memory does not fail, it seems in the first volume Budrio describes limber holl. There should also be a scheme with axonometry.

 
It shows how far these cuts should go. In the drawings in the top view it is difficult to disassemble, especially in the areas of the stems, where the desired line merges with the keel due to the bends of the frames and it is not clear how the limber holes should go. 

 
 
This is a very interesting system.

Especially when compared as a function of drainage was performed in different countries. 
The Dutch were very original. Here it is visible. 

They did not do the cuts, but made additional beams, which allowed the cladding to be fastened so that a slit was deposited to drain the water to the pumps.
If you read historical works, you can find very interesting stories about this system. During the Anglo-Dutch War, the British were greatly surprised that the captured Dutch ships had virtually no critical wood decay. This said that the  system drainage very good at its task.
Over time, the English have slightly modified the location of the limber canal. They began to make it close to the keel. This was justified, since the keel had the lowest point in the hold. Try to search in the works of Seppings, he describes this innovation. It's all a little lyrical digression.
During the construction of the seventy cannon ships, they had not yet guessed.
And again: you are not doing the right  a Recess. The channel must go perpendicular to the outer edge of the frame. Take a closer look, it's clearly visible on your own drawing. At you the propyl is made not absolutely truly. I tried to show this in your photo.
 

When I studied this element, I came to the conclusion that it is more convenient to do it a little later, when all the frames will be in place. Then, with the help of a thread, it will be possible to accurately mark the whole gagging immediately. And just saw through all the timbers at once. If done separately as you do now, you will not get a smooth line in the collection.

Very nice progress Sjors with the planking, and very brave to not do double planking!  So no stripes?  At the stern I wonder if you will need to do a little spiling or thinning to get the planks to sit properly around the sharp angle at the stern.  Otherwise the planks may become harder and harder to bend until its impossible, but of course it is difficult to judge with only seeing pictures.

Count me in as well, great start!
I think you are referring to HMS Belfast, a Town class light cruiser which has a very storied history being also involved in the sinking of the Tirpitz.  Her largest guns are only 6in , so maybe 'big gun warship' is a little bit of a stretch 
 

Thank you very much guys...
Moving right along I added the syren figures at the stern.   You can see how I dont have the acanthus leaves carved for the port side yet.   Not enough time in teh day !!!  I am gonna try and get the bust of queen Anne done next which goes on the outside of the tombstone transom.  These two Syren figures were the smallest I have made to date.  I could only merely suggest the details and hopefully your imagination will fill in the blanks.  At least that is what I hear is supposed to happen.  
 
Almost forgot...these are once again resin castings.  I will keep my sculpted originals as masters.
 
Chuck

 

 

Deck plan finalized
 
After looking over the snake plans and a few other brig deck plans it seems the beams were not equally spaced apart.  For sanity sake I just chose to have 3cm spacing with a four butt planking layout so I can cut 15cm planks.  some day when I'm scratch building I'll go all the way I promise.
 

 
Chamfering
 
I started fairing the bulkheads and I've found some spots that need shims.  I'm going to take my time and make sure I have a nice run for every plank.  You can see that No13 bulkhead was raised 1.5mm to fit properly and No12 still needs the shims.  interesting.
 

 
The plan is to fill in the first two bulkheads with basswood but without power tools it will be a lot of work.  You can see where I added some lime wood strip on the top of the keel to aid positioning of the bulwark strips.  It can come off after second planking if it gets in the way. 
 


 
Lots of sanding to be done!

Cheers Guys for your input and support, I think I did go down the right route for the treenails 
@ Steve, I didn't see the treenails on Chuck's build before I magnified the pics on his log, and as he didn't mention them in his blurb I assumed they weren't there.
On with the build.
The internal planking is completed, I used Boxwood strip.

9811
The Capping rails were cut out of Boxwood Sheet on the Scroll saw.

9817
No real problems here, it's just a question of sand, trial fit, sand, and when the size is close enough glue it on and finish the final sanding.

9822
At this point the paintwork required a further rub down and re-coat, once again the parts to be left natural were taped over.
The knee at the bow was also fashioned out of a bit of Boxwood and glued into place.
 Chuck makes reference to a 'fancy profile moulding along the edge of the cap rail'  I thought I would give it a go.

9831
Using a single edged razor blade I filed the profile which is a mere 1.7mm overall, basically two narrow slits close together with a fine point in the middle. The one on the right is the one used.

9852
Not sure how well this would work using the provided Limewood , too soft to get a clean line.

9846
I also made the thwart support stanchions out of some 1.5mm Boxwood square stuff.

9841

9842
Not quite got down to the elegance of Cap rail as demonstrated by Chuck, but move on we must.

9844
A little more fettlin' of the interior flaws that keep catching my eye before I move onto that tricky business of the panelwork.
B.E.
 
 

Great result.  In my opinion the fact that they are difficult to see, yet subtlely apparent, means that you've achieved just the right balance if the photo is anything to go by.  That side view shows your planking off really well.

Great result.  In my opinion the fact that they are difficult to see, yet subtlely apparent, means that you've achieved just the right balance if the photo is anything to go by.  That side view shows your planking off really well.

Hello all!
 
The rumours of my death have been greatly exaggerated!
 
Its been a busy year with wedding, honeymoon and then Christmas and a new job. Most of my free time has been absorbed in working on our garden, which is getting an extensive landscaping, and we still have stuff everywhere after well over a year in the new house!
 
Got round to having a tidy up of the kitchen table and made some room to work. The Hood is so large that it needs a fair amount of room!
 
I've started to lay down the 7" armour band using polyethylene sheet on the port side of the ship.
 
Also glued in place two sheets of brass etch on the super structure.
 
I'll try and ensure some better progress going forward.
 
Still looking for issue 119 btw....
 

Slowly moving aft and getting more carvings completed.   Actually I am concentrating on the sculpted parts now and I will finish the carvings once they are all completed.  Rather than use my master boxwood carvings for the model, I am using resin castings instead.  So all of the carving details you see below are resin. I will keep the original carvings as masters for when the molds wear out.
Chuck

 

 

 

Here is the idea of how frames join to the keel. The kind of filler added under the frame was to save wood.  I tried some to see what it look like. This is the kind of details which disappears when all the frames are assembled. With this  carpentry, a frame holds solidly on the keel.

Great result.  In my opinion the fact that they are difficult to see, yet subtlely apparent, means that you've achieved just the right balance if the photo is anything to go by.  That side view shows your planking off really well.

Great result.  In my opinion the fact that they are difficult to see, yet subtlely apparent, means that you've achieved just the right balance if the photo is anything to go by.  That side view shows your planking off really well.

Thinking about Treenailing.
To do or not to do, I am drawn by the effect achieved by both Mike Y and MikeB4 on their Pinnace builds regardless of the work involved but I note that Chuck did not add this feature on his own Pinnace build, a question of scale perhaps?
The smallest drill that would make the job even worth considering would be a 0.5mm ø. but this equates to a tad under ½"dia at full scale or a circumference of just shy of 1½" which seems somewhat over-scale.
Below this drill size, the effect would not be apparent, and above perhaps too much, but having said that regardless of scale the two Mikes result is very appealing to my eye.
Using a 0.5mm drill I have added the treenail holes but because my Boxwood strip was only 0.7mm thick before sanding, and slightly narrower than the kit stuff, I was concerned that using toothpicks may split the already very fine planks.
I have therefore used a fine filler toned mix to represent the treenails which border on subtle approaching invisibility. They are apparent to the naked eye from certain angles and light which is good enough for me.

9814
Difficult to photograph but this close-up shows  the effect before cleaning up the hull.
I expect the effect to be more pronounced once the hull is varnished.
B.E.

I love that Joe, really nice detail to add - its fun doing a little scratch work isn't it.  It reminds me of the shortened school buses that my kids find so amusing....
 

Looking great Joe.  I know I mention this already, but if you do plan to use carronades then you probably want to increase the port size soon to avoid messing up your nice paintwork.  The copper colour is gorgeous.

Joe, that copper looks fantastic, the jig you made is an excellent idea and to use the 'hollow' nail indents makes it look that much better.  Really great result and something definitely to try.

Joe, lucky I saw this in your signature or could have sneaked by.  Great start, love these ships and think the detailing on the Cruizer is slightly nicer than the Snake kit.  Are you going to enlarge the gun ports if you're switching to the carronades? Hard to tell from the photos whether you did that already.

I agree wholeheartedly with Martin, a waterline set too low creates an unbalanced look in my opinion, a higher line, besides being more historically accurate, provides more of a sense of "heft".  On my Snake the waterline is in my opinion too low (but not horribly so) which I did in blissful ignorance, but I see it everytime I look at her.

I agree wholeheartedly with Martin, a waterline set too low creates an unbalanced look in my opinion, a higher line, besides being more historically accurate, provides more of a sense of "heft".  On my Snake the waterline is in my opinion too low (but not horribly so) which I did in blissful ignorance, but I see it everytime I look at her.