Beef Wellington

Here is the idea of how frames join to the keel. The kind of filler added under the frame was to save wood.  I tried some to see what it look like. This is the kind of details which disappears when all the frames are assembled. With this  carpentry, a frame holds solidly on the keel.

Great result.  In my opinion the fact that they are difficult to see, yet subtlely apparent, means that you've achieved just the right balance if the photo is anything to go by.  That side view shows your planking off really well.

Great result.  In my opinion the fact that they are difficult to see, yet subtlely apparent, means that you've achieved just the right balance if the photo is anything to go by.  That side view shows your planking off really well.

Thinking about Treenailing.
To do or not to do, I am drawn by the effect achieved by both Mike Y and MikeB4 on their Pinnace builds regardless of the work involved but I note that Chuck did not add this feature on his own Pinnace build, a question of scale perhaps?
The smallest drill that would make the job even worth considering would be a 0.5mm ø. but this equates to a tad under ½"dia at full scale or a circumference of just shy of 1½" which seems somewhat over-scale.
Below this drill size, the effect would not be apparent, and above perhaps too much, but having said that regardless of scale the two Mikes result is very appealing to my eye.
Using a 0.5mm drill I have added the treenail holes but because my Boxwood strip was only 0.7mm thick before sanding, and slightly narrower than the kit stuff, I was concerned that using toothpicks may split the already very fine planks.
I have therefore used a fine filler toned mix to represent the treenails which border on subtle approaching invisibility. They are apparent to the naked eye from certain angles and light which is good enough for me.

9814
Difficult to photograph but this close-up shows  the effect before cleaning up the hull.
I expect the effect to be more pronounced once the hull is varnished.
B.E.

I love that Joe, really nice detail to add - its fun doing a little scratch work isn't it.  It reminds me of the shortened school buses that my kids find so amusing....
 

Looking great Joe.  I know I mention this already, but if you do plan to use carronades then you probably want to increase the port size soon to avoid messing up your nice paintwork.  The copper colour is gorgeous.

Joe, that copper looks fantastic, the jig you made is an excellent idea and to use the 'hollow' nail indents makes it look that much better.  Really great result and something definitely to try.

Joe, lucky I saw this in your signature or could have sneaked by.  Great start, love these ships and think the detailing on the Cruizer is slightly nicer than the Snake kit.  Are you going to enlarge the gun ports if you're switching to the carronades? Hard to tell from the photos whether you did that already.

I agree wholeheartedly with Martin, a waterline set too low creates an unbalanced look in my opinion, a higher line, besides being more historically accurate, provides more of a sense of "heft".  On my Snake the waterline is in my opinion too low (but not horribly so) which I did in blissful ignorance, but I see it everytime I look at her.

I agree wholeheartedly with Martin, a waterline set too low creates an unbalanced look in my opinion, a higher line, besides being more historically accurate, provides more of a sense of "heft".  On my Snake the waterline is in my opinion too low (but not horribly so) which I did in blissful ignorance, but I see it everytime I look at her.

I agree wholeheartedly with Martin, a waterline set too low creates an unbalanced look in my opinion, a higher line, besides being more historically accurate, provides more of a sense of "heft".  On my Snake the waterline is in my opinion too low (but not horribly so) which I did in blissful ignorance, but I see it everytime I look at her.

It's been a little slow going, but I've planked the next section of the hull (the area between the plankshear and the wale) with ebony.  So far, so good, no issues really.  I decided to complete the second planking at this stage, because the wale on this ship isn't a separately defined row of planks - instead it's just thicker planks from the top of the wale down.  
 

 
For the next section, I'll be using a thicker first planking, which I'll sand back to the thickness of the planking above, and then add the ebony second planking so that there is a clear definition.  I won't be planking the rest of the hull in ebony because I'll be coppering the hull.  So, at some point below the copper line, I'll probably just feather the ebony planks into the first planking rather than add a second planking to the entire hull.  We'll see how it looks, as I can always throw on a second planking, not caring what it looks like since it will be covered anyway.
 
Speaking of the copper line, the plans how two levels for the copper line.  A higher line which seems to be the historical line, and a lower line from the 1983 restoration (which appears to still be the copper line for the ship currently):
 

 
Most models of the Morgan that I've seen go with the lower line.  A benefit of the higher line is that the hull would need a lot less ebony for the planking - I think midships there are only three or four strakes above the copper line.  On the other hand, I wonder if the higher copper line would overwhelm the ship.  I think I have enough ebony sheets for the higher line, but not the lower line, so I might just go with the higher line. 
 
I'm curious what others think.  The first picture is of a model with the lower line.  The next few are with the higher line.  I really like the oxidized green copper look of the second model below - I'm wondering if i can achieve that with the copper tape that came with the kit.
 

 

 
 

Hi Mike -- I know nothing about coppering a hull, but I agree with you that the oxidized look on model #2 looks pretty good -- no, really good.  I also would lean toward the higher coppering line because it seems to compliment the particular shape of the hull -- the lower line of the ebony planking creates the appearance of a top-heavy hull.  Just my aesthetic opinion.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Working on bees, bowsprit cap, yard sling saddle, jack staff, etc.
 
Jesse

That looks awesome and looks like it'll work, great solution!  I'm intrigued as to where you'll go with the stern decorations, its a great excuse to get familiar again with Greek mythology (for fun out of school).
 
A final suggestion would be to check out is the alignment with the anticipated lower cheek placement, you'll probably want to ensure that the bottom of the figurehead (or tail!) aligns with this.  You should have some wiggle room, but if there is one thing I've learned is that on this ship it takes a lot of forward planning to avoid getting sucked into problems when its too late, especially with making custom modifications.

Very innovative solution Rob, looks great.  Not sure if you've done it already but it could be worth checking the bowsprit alignment if you can.  I seem to recall that the plans show this presenting a smaller angle than the AOTS, but even with a steeper rake there is precious little room between the bowsprit and the top of the figurehead, even the supplied Diana figurehead.
 
Now get back to those gunports!

Thanks Jason,
 
Yes, the more I thought about it overnight the more I came to the same conclusion... the figure overall is about 1cm longer than the Diana figurehead, and most of that extra height is above the head (although the legs are longer too). Thankfully Aethelion gives a solution - for the brave! I launched in to remodel the figure to have a dolphin's tale - one fluke on each side of the beakhead... I can't claim credit for the tail - it was part of a plastic dolphin ordered on Amazon.
 
After a LOT of hollowing out using a Proxxon drill/engraver, the figure sat much lower on the beakhead, and was able to lean forwards more. That solved the clearance issue, and then it was "simply" a case of cutting off the legs with a mini-hacksaw, splitting the dolphins tail vertically with a craft knife, and using 1mm wire and CA glue to strengthen the join between the figure and the halves of the tail.
 
There's still a little work to do to make the join invisible, but here's the progress so far (with some shots against the plans to show how the jib boom at AOTS angle should clear the figurehead).
 
Here's the figure with the dolphin tale attached, but no filling / painting. The white is where I've carved the tail back to fit the figure.
 

 
And after some filling / painting:
 

 
A bit of work to do to hide the join, but I think I'll make his clothes come down to the join - that'll hide the join more easily.
 

 
Oh, yes... and I got two more gunports lined... onwards and upwards! Thanks for all the advice, likes, and encouragement.
 
Rob
 

Thanks for the comments, guys.
 
Finally made a start on the rigging.  The shrouds for the mizzen lower mast are now basically in position.  They've been attached by the lanyards but the lanyards are still to be fully tightened.  The mizzen stay has been looped around the masthead but hasn't been attached to the main mast yet. >>>
 In the pic above the stay had been incorrectly looped inside the trestletrees instead of outside -- that has since been rectified.  The heart block has also been seized into the lower end of the stay since the photo.
So that I could get the gaff and boom from flailing around loosely they've been rigged, but only after the mizzen top and topmast were fitted. >>>

Petersson's book shows the line for the boom topping lift going to a block on the mizzen channel then to a belaying pin on a side pinrail.  Leopard has no side pinrails on the poop deck so I led it via a double block to a pin on the central pinrail immediately behind the mast  >>>

 
The gaff vangs and boom guy pendants have also been rigged >>>



There is one thing that these photos have revealed that is virtually invisible to the naked eye --- and that is all the 'fuzz' on the rigging threads, so I'll have to get some bees wax on the job.
 

Thank you Albert and Alex.
Forecastle and quarter deck planksheer is installed now (including timberheads).

Quarter deck breastwork with hammock cranes and netting. I spend the next few days at the lathe - I have to make swivel guns and carronades.

Shipyard Update
Top Mast Shrouds and Breast Stays:
 
View of how she looks so far.

 
So what has been added since last post ?
 
Checked the rake of all 3 Masts.
The Mizzen is not raked enough by approx. 1 maybe 2 degrees.
Not sure how I got this wrong, as I checked it was right before I glued the collar in at the deck.
And that is where the error crept in, and now too late to rectify.
 
TopMast Shrouds.
Shroud Jig:
My arms and hands got so tired when I fitted the lower shrouds, in-situ, I decided to try "off the boat" using a jig to make the shrouds.
First step was to make all the shrouds with the loop at the top.
Second was to mark the length of the leading shroud of each pair and transfer to the jig.  
Third, I transferred the shroud(pair) to the jig and tied off(do the rope work) the end to the dead-eye.
Some pictures of the Jig below.
 
The front pair from the Port and Starboard sides of the Fore TopMast.

On the left I have some "pegs" in holes that I can move to simulate where the loop is in relation to the dead-eyes below.
On the right I have a sliding plate which moves accordingly with the length of the shrouds.
 
Close up of the dead-eye end.

The small board was not very stable, moving about when I made the first set above.
Upgrade to Jig.
So I attached the small jig board to a large piece of wood, fitted snugly between 2 runners, so it can slide left/right.
I did this so one could get your hand around the dead-eye end.
 
The next pairs of shrouds(stern side) with the shrouds crossed to simulate the rake aft. 

It might not be perfect but at this scale pretty much close enough.
Saved my hands being up in the air for ages trying the knots.
 
View on Fore - Top Mast

 
View on Main - Top Mast

 
Breast Stays:
Either side of the TopMasts are Breast Stays leading down the the channels.
5mm single block on the lower end of 0.45mm rope.
 
Fore TopMast - Breast Stay fall

Just got temp. lines holding the block, so I can take it off when I do the Rattling lines.
Tackle to go on after the Rattlings.
 
And the Main TopMast - Breast Stay fall

Again temp. lines holding the block, so I can take it off when I do the Rattling lines.
 
Next jobs for the shipyard to look at:
- the Fore & Main TopMast Backstay pairs
- Fore & Main Stays(main and preventor) forward.
- then onto the Rattling Lines to all the Shrouds. Can't wait for that little task to start.
 
However, most of the above will have to wait, as the Admiral and I are off on a holiday to Italy. 
Bwon a sera
Arri ved erci
 

The first set of skids I patterned were the ones that frame the waist ladder.  I left the outboard profile oversize in order to make extra allowance for fitting close to the hull, but also because the parts, themselves, can be a little fiddly and difficult to handle if they are too thin.
 
Here's a pic of a set installed, but before thinning to final shape:

 
While the outboard profile follows the tumblehome nicely, the steps appear set back too far, and the overall impression is that the skid timbers are too heavy.
 
Here's a shot after fairing the skid timbers closer to the hull:
 

 
Now the treads are more visible, yet still protected by the skids.  There are a few spots where a skid saddles a wale, where a spot of filler is needed, but the inletting was pretty close, overall.
 
Here are a couple of side by side pics for the sake of comparison:
 
 


 
Next, I'll pattern three more skids per side, following the same process and to the same proportions.

Okay - so I said I was feeling a bit jammy, because I'd had a cunning plan about figureheads. I know enough about my own abilities to know that I'm not about to carve / sculpt a figurehead out of a block of wood or fimo or (insert your medium here), and choosing to model Ethalion instead of Diana meant that the kit-supplied figurehead wasn't going to work! (Ethalion was a bloke for starters, and then he (was) turned into a dolphin!).... so... back to the internet to pursue a solution. And I think I have one. You can let me know what you think.
 
It's a UK based website called http://www.irregularminiatures.co.uk/. Just to be clear, I don't have any relationship with these guys other than this transaction, but this transaction was as good as I could have asked. It's a simple payment process where you email the address on the site and let them know which figures you'd like (I chose the 54mm figures (red links at the bottom of the home page), Greek Peltast with javelin and Spartan Hoplite - it's the Peltast who'll be gracing the bow of Ethalion... they were £3.75 each, which is a steal! You can get them painted, too if you want. Anyway - I ordered on Wednesday, and they sent a paypal link for payment, and they were waiting on the door mat on Monday when I got home from camping.
 
Here they are literally as they arrived in the post without any further cleaning up at all.
 

 
 
And after I did a little basic surgery... with the boxwood beakhead insert for Ethalion...
 

 
And next to the dolphin I'm intending to use to replace the feet and show the beginning of the transformation that Ethalion underwent... (shouldn't have argued with Bacchus!). I shall move his left leg back a little and cut out his back a little to allow him to sit better on the beakhead, but I think it should be doable.
 

 
For those of us who aren't up to creating our own figureheads (at least, for the model we're building today), perhaps this will be of help
 
Happy building
 
Rob
 
 
 

I couldn't resist hollowing out the slot for the beakhead and putting some paint on Aethalion today, along with his buddy... let's call him Acoetes, as per the captain of the same ship that was overtaken by Bacchus in Ovid's tale.
 
Here's the result so far...  (with the Caldercraft-supplied Diana figurehead next to it for comparison)
 




 
And his buddy, Acoetes... standing guard.
 

 
Now... back to the gunport lining on the port side. Two down - twelve to go!
 

Count me in as well, great start!
I think you are referring to HMS Belfast, a Town class light cruiser which has a very storied history being also involved in the sinking of the Tirpitz.  Her largest guns are only 6in , so maybe 'big gun warship' is a little bit of a stretch