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KenW

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  1. KenW
    Just started following your build log. Very outstanding - both in showing your growing skills and as a set of instructions for someone like me who is thinking of attempting this kit bashed model for his next challenge. I look forward to watching your rigging adventures and advise. Keep it coming! Cheers.
  2. KenW
    The lower masts are made and the top masts and topgallant masts are carved out. The ship looks really good with the lower and top masts mounted, although nothing is glued so the alignments are not perfect. I took some photos and am ready to glue the lower masts and start rigging them. I’m still not sure if I like the look of the wooldings on the fore mast but not on the main mast. If the gaff is mounted with parrels, does it mean that the main sail was not brailed? Anyway, all rigging will have to wait until after the WC final.
  3. KenW
    I have been studying the plans that came with the kit and I believe that the gaff is attached to the mainmast with parrels. Therefore I believe that it was lowered and the gaff-rigged mainsail was not brailed. So I guess I will have wooldings on the foremast, but not on the mainmast. Also, the plans do not show a boom rest on the mainmast, just an eye bolt for a hook at the end of the boom. (Even though the kit comes with a dye cast boom rest.) So I will leave the boom rest off. Please, comments are welcome.
  4. KenW
    Thanks Gary. The cleats on the mast are from the kit.
  5. KenW
    It has been a good World Cup so far (except for the biting incident), and I have managed to do some work between games. The fore mast and the fore top are ‘done’, although I expect there will be some modifications when rigging starts. Some photos of the ‘completed’ fore mast parts are below. (Some paint touch ups are needed.) I also started work on the main mast. From looking at the plans, the main mast diameter is slightly larger than the fore mast. By my measurements, the fore mast is ¼ inch in diameter and the main mast is 9/32 inch. I didn’t have a 9/32 dowel so I went to my local hardware store. They only had a 5/16 inch dowel so I got that. But the thing you have to watch out for is that I had to go through the whole selection to get a dowel that was straight. I was able to scrape the dowel down to the required diameter and shape. But, the other thing I noticed is that the main mast has a slight rake to it. The instructions say to follow the plans. And the fore mast is at 90 degrees from the water line; but the main mast is 92 degrees. I don’t think I will be able to get that exact rake, but I will do my best.
  6. KenW
    Congratulations on an excellent model. On to the next project? Cheers.
  7. KenW
    I agree. Also, I hope to be able to get some help and advise from The Ship Model Society of New Jersey. I joined in January and they are very knowledgeable, friendly and helpful. You can read their news letter on the "Monthly Local Club Newsletters" page. Although the most recent issue is Feb., 2014. We just have to keep asking questions and hopefully sharing the answers we get.
  8. KenW
    I agree with you that the sail plans that come with the FA kit are poor. They are almost no help for installing the running rigging at all!. I am using the Syren documentation and it is helpful, but there are some things that I don't believe apply to the earlier FA. Another source I recommend is, "Rigging Period Ship Models", by Lennarth Petersson. He shows (on pages 47 & 70) that the tops have two pair of double blocks on the port side and two pair on the starboard side under the tops. One double block pair is for a spritsail brace and leech line, and another double block pair is for two bunt lines. (There is another single block pair for a sprit top sail, but the FA doesn't have one.) I hope I am able to make myself clear with all this.
  9. KenW
    I have the lower foremast and main top almost complete. I added rope wooldings and I do like the way they look. I am also going to add blocks for the bunt and leech lines. I still have to install the dead eyes, but everything is coming along despite the World Cup interruptions.
  10. KenW
    I was not going to include either wooldings or the 'extra' blocks on the tops for various rigging lines used for bunt lines, leech lines and chew lines. However, I still have time to change my mind. I like the look of the wooldings and if they are period correct, I should include them. Also, I have been thinking from the start that I would like to have reefed sails, so I should have those blocks (and perhaps the lines) as well. I will have to do some research on the number and location of the blocks.
  11. KenW
    I enjoy watching your build. And I was wondering - When is the boat show? I still want to see photos of the real boats (or replicas). Cheers.
  12. KenW
    Thanks Bob and Russ. I used the same philosophy in rigging the bob stays and bowsprit shrouds as I used when rigging the cannon: I rigged as much as possible before the bowsprit was mounted on the hull. That way I could get the dead eyes equally spaced. After gluing the bow sprint to the hull, I attached the lines to their eye bolts. The seizing was not tightened until the shroud or stay line was pulled tight. The result was the dead eye spacing and the line tightness looking right.
  13. KenW
    I have to admit, the World Cup is proving to be a major distraction. However, I did manage to install and rig the bowsprit and jib boom. The boomkins (sometimes called the bumkins) were also added and rigged. Everything seems to have turned out as planned with no problems. Once the games are played less frequently, I will work on the fore mast.
  14. KenW
    WOW! A lot of people seem to think my idea of Model Expo using Bob's model for their Essex kit and paying him for it is a good idea. Now we all have to is petition the ME folks.
  15. KenW
    Great workmanship. I think Model Shipways/Model Expo should redo their kit to reflect your fantastic job. What your are creating is a beautiful rendering of a Napoleonic era frigate. And they should pay you for your trouble (or enjoyment).
  16. KenW
    Just a status report – I’ve made the bowsprit and jib boom. They are not installed or rigged yet. I made both out of dowels and followed the plans.
  17. KenW
    Victorpapa - My cannons were painted black because I didn't know any better. Now I have been using Birchwood Casey Brass Black for things like the belaying pins, cleats, eye bolts etc. Haven't yet used it on a canon barrel, of course, but people on this site seem to like it.
  18. KenW
    Thanks for your comments Ed. I'm almost finished with the bowsprit and jib boom - entry and photos soon. My strategy is to follow Bob (rafine)'s FA blog. He made the masts from fore to aft and then rigged from aft to forward. On my previous model, I made all masts from dowels. I use the scraping method described in Bob Hunt's practicum for the Armed Virginia Sloop. I have been able to get the dowel 'cone-shaped' as per the plans and still retain a good roundness. Looking forward to seeing more photos of your work.
  19. KenW
    The last 4 guns have been rigged and installed. That completes the work on the hull, except for some items used for rigging, such as the channels and sheet horse. Also, I didn’t add the bow sprit bitts since that determines the final angle of the bow sprit. So I’m going to have a little private launch party and begin on the bow sprit and the rest of the rigging.
  20. KenW
    I have another question. The netting on the bow sprint rigging - did you tie it as the plans show, or did you use some netting or window screens? Thanks.
  21. KenW
    I have re-built my capstan to make it a bit smaller and improve the workmanship. I’ve kept the hex shaped design, however. The result is a definite improvement. I decided that the scale doesn’t matter as much as the look and feel of the piece. The rest of the deck furniture is also completed, but not glued. (I’m afraid the furniture might get in my way during the rigging phase.) Also, I still have to mount the final 4 guns. Once that is done, I’ m thinking of having a ‘launch’ party.
  22. KenW
    I don't pre-shape either. And, I don't soak the manila strips. But I found it is better to paint the strips, and let the paint dry, before gluing them. You can just press them down once you apply the glue. Pretty easy to work with.
  23. KenW
    Your work is looking good. Cheers.
  24. KenW
    I agree that your guns look great. Are your barrels from the kit? Did you paint them or blacken them? I use cut strips of a manila folder for my trunnions. Great job.
  25. KenW
    Thanks Russ. I don't intend to paint it. I think my workmanship can be improved and I can reduce the height down to the 3/4 inches on the plans. I feel that part of the problem is the model itself. It is a model of a model and the kit's scale is an issue. The housing front and captain's cabin door are only 3 feet high according to the scale. If an average man is 5 feet 6 inches. My capstan is 3 feet 9 inches which shouldn't be too high. I am thinking that what I need to do is reduce the height and redo the wood work and see what it looks like when all the guns and deck furniture are mounted. Thanks again.

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