KenW
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Thanks Alistair, Bob and Scott. As to the type of wood used for the masts: I used the dowel supplied by the kit which I assume is basswood. The main mast is a 5/16 inch dowel purchased at the local hardware store and thinned down to 9/32. It is probably pine. I stained both masts with Minwax 'Golden Oak' stain. I do have a question - While I'm still working on the lower mast's standing rigging, I am researching the rigging for the topmasts. The main topmast stay attaches to the main topmast with a mouse and the stay passes through a 1/4 inch block on the foremast. It then is seized to a 'fiddle' block (which I call a sister block) halfway down the aft side of the lower foremast. "A purchase is rove between a single-becket block on deck and the fiddle block, the hauling end being hitched to the deck block at its strap." Does anyone know, or have a picture of, how that hitch is done exactly? Thanks. -
Thanks Russ and Dave. I'm using the documentation for the Syren to help me with the rigging. The only thing is that when there is a difference between the Syren doc and the FA plans, I defer to the plans.
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Attached are photos of the lower main mast’s shrouds and stays. I was pleased that the ‘line of sight’ of the aft guns were unaffected by the lanyards of the shrouds. Hope the fore mast shrouds come out as well. I made the mouses from 1/8 inch dowel: first drilling the hole, then shaping the end and finally cutting off the finished mouse. I never realized that my fingers were so fat, and there are thinner lines and tighter spaces yet to come. I also see from one of the photos that I forgot to trim the lanyard of the main preventer stay.
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Thanks for the likes and comments. Gary: I was also surprised at the height of the masts. I guess that made her fast. The fids are to position the upper masts into the tops. They determine how far the top mast or top gallant mast 'drops down' into the slot in its top. As for the channels, I tried to make them as long as I could given the situation. I just finished installing the lower main shrouds and there is enough room for the two aft guns. Unlike the plans however, I have one shroud fore of its gun and the others aft of the gun. Hopefully I will have a photo tomorrow.
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Glad to see your build is coming along. I take it you are not painting the masts except for the mast caps. They look good - and I like the wooldings. Cheers.
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The masts are constructed. The top masts and top gallant masts are not glued yet, so they may not be perfectly straight. The hounds were a challenge but turned out all right. I followed the same painting scheme as Bob ‘rafine’. My main worry as I go forward is that I moved the guns slightly closer to each other to allow for the two aft guns to be further away from the housing front. This means that the dead eyes on the channels are crowded together, especially on the aft channels. I’m waiting to see what they ultimately look like.
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Hey Bob: You work place looks the same as mine. Its great to see I'm not the only one. Obviously it doesn't affect the quality of your work. Cheers.
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Just started reading this thread, and I see a lot of options on jib saw blades. Of course, before I get some blades, I need a saw. What are your recommendations? The Dremel Moto Saw? Thanks.
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Just to set the record straight. The above ship, Confederacy, was not done by me. That honor belongs to SawdustDave. Dave: I know my wood carving skills are negative; but I'm afraid that my clay sculpting skills are about the same.
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I see you are an excellent craftsmen yourself. I must say you look nothing like your avatar. Sculpey seems to be a type of clay. Do you find it easier to work with than sculpting in wood? Cheers.
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Hey Dave. Never heard of "sculpy". But at some point I want to start trying my hand at sculpturing figureheads and stern designs. I will look into it.
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Thanks Ed. I will have to watch out for splitting! Perhaps using a slightly larger drill will prevent that. Cheers.
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I installed the deadeyes. I had to use wire since I couldn’t find the ‘brass backing link’ that the kit used to supply. Bob (rafine) used something similar on his Fair American, but I couldn’t find anything similar in any hardware store here in Brooklyn. I guess it will have to suffice. I think I will have to redo that one second from the right. I don’t like the look. Still working on the upper masts.
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Well, I keep adding "likes", but you are still one of the master builders in my opinion. Cheers.
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Hey Ed: I replaced all the rigging with rope from Chuck Passaro. You can check out his site and order stuff from him at www.SYRENSHIPMODELCOMPANY.COM. If you go to this site, "http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS2260", and click "Documents", you can access the book of instructions that Chuck created for the ME model of the Syren. I use that documentation, along with Bob "rafine"'s FA log as the main resources for my FA build. The later chapters of the Syren doc. deal with building the masts and yards as well as the standing and running rigging. I get line thickness from his doc. (keeping in mind that the Syren is a1:64 model and the FA is 1:48 so some lines may be thicker). I also refer to the instructions from my previous model, which was also 1:48 scale. Chuck's documentation also is clear about the difference between standing and running rigging. He even recommends an order in which each line should be added to the model. Check it out.
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Thanks Gary and Victor. Sounds like you had a pretty exciting sail, Gary. Perhaps too exciting. I'm not bothered anymore that the wooldings are on the fore mast but not on the main. Does anyone know if the method of attaching a gaff rigged sail (rings) helped strengthen the mast? Just thought the rings might spread out the pressure whereas with a yard, all the pressure is all at the top of the mast. More comments, please.
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On the issue of wooldings: I recently acquired a copy of Howard Chapelle's "History of American Sailing Ships". He doesn't mention wooldings but some of the drawings in his volume show them. I know it is risky basing decisions on drawings, but what I see is that some boats of this period had them and some did not. Boats like the Syren with reinforced masts always had wooldings. However, the smaller boats, like the FA, are inconsistent. I feel they probably installed them if the captain felt that the masts required strengthening. Of course a mast with a gaff rigged sail didn't have wooldings. So at this point, I think I will keep them. As always, I welcome comments.
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Thanks Victor. I still am undecided on having a woolding only on the fore mast. You're right in that it probably wasn't needed. I like the look of them though. Still thinking.
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Hey Ed. You know, I'm going to have the same problem. I haven't drilled mounting holes yet either. Didn't think of it. Oh boy!
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Thanks Pete. I use Bob (rafine)'s blog as my major reference tool and your name has been mentioned on it. I find your techniques to very interesting as well.
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Hey Ed - Not that I know of. Let me find my notes and maybe I can send you (and Gary) the page on splicing. It isn't easy to explain.
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Hey Ed. I spliced a single block to the end of a line, ran the other end through a hole in the boomkin and seized the that end to the eye bolt on the hull. The splicing technique was something I got from a workshop given by David Antscherl.
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I believe I found the answer to how my gaff rigged mainsail should be mounted. In Howard Chapelle's, "The History of American Sailing Ships", he says that, "The gaff was always lowered to furl the sail, the so-called 'standing-gaff' that remained aloft was never popular in America." While Mr. Chapelle was not talking about the Fair American, I am going to assume that the gaff was lowered for furling.
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Thanks Russ and Scott. As for the head rails: The head rail was cut from a large, flat piece of scrap wood, so no bending was required. The middle rail was bent, as were the cheek knees. However, the cheek knees were each made from two pieces of wood, as per the instructions.
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Thanks for the welcome. I still have a lot of work left on my current build, so I don't worry about your speed. As a "friend" on this site (russ) says, "T'aint a hobby if you hurry". And besides, even if I started tomorrow, it would take me quite a while to catch up with you. So have fun, and I will keep watching. Cheers.
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