KenW
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Hey Alistair - Sorry you don't like the capstan. It was a hard piece to construct because it is so small. The height is @7/8 inches, which is taller than the plan's capstan at 3/4 inches. The diameter is the same as the plan's (5/8 inches). I like the hexagon shape; but I may want to try to reduce the height. I'll have to take some time to think about it. Cheers. -
I looked at several sites that featured capstans and their designs. But, finally I realized that the answer was right in front of me – on the plans. So I did my best to create a capstan that matched the one on the model’s plans. I think it came out alright and I like the look better than the capstan that came with the kit. (Still need to add the pawls, of course.)
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I agree that your workmanship on the Cutter Mermaid indicates that you can build any model you set your eyes on. As to what woods to use: I like to avoid painting as much as possible to let the workmanship show through (even though my workmanship is not as good as yours). So on my current build I chose boxwood, which is yellowish, and holly, which is white, to create a hull that has the same look as the recommended painted model. If you want to go that way, look at the color of the original ship and choose woods that are (about) the same colors. (On my next model I have to look into ebony to replace the black wales.) If you like this idea, the Hobby Mill web site, "http://www.hobbymillusa.com/milled-wood-strips.php", has a great selection of different wood types. Just a thought.
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Looking good Bob. Outstanding workmanship as usual. Ken
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I think your model is a really good piece of work. One question, is the model painted on one side (starboard) or does it just look that way in the photos? Personally, I like the natural look better. Great job.
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Thanks Russ and Bob. And Bob: I got the idea of breaking gun installation into manageable batches from you.
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Thanks Gary. I have a photo of rafine's capstan and I will check out the other sources.
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You are building a really great looking boat. Excellent workmanship and I like the color scheme. Really well done. Cheers.
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I now have a total of 10 guns mounted. I also added the bilge pumps and the aft gallows, although it isn’t glued. I acquired a new spool of 28 gauge wire that is annealed and it is much stronger than the wire I was using that I got from a craft store. It’s much easier to work with. My method for rigging the guns is to do everything before the carriage, with barrel attached, is installed on the deck. The holes on the bulwark are drilled and the eyebolt for the outhaul tackle is in; and the barrel attached to the carriage before installation. I do agree that the whole process of setting up the carriage/gun is lengthy, but I try to break it up by doing 4 guns and then working on some deck furniture. So I have 10 down and 4 to go. Next up is the capstan – and I’m not pleased with the kit supplied one. I’m going to have to create my own somehow.
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My two cents: First the work is outstanding as we are accustomed to here. As far as the gun rigging, (and we need some input here from someone who really knows) is that during action the in haul tackle is used to haul the gun in and secure it while it is being loaded. Recoil may not bring the gun all the way into loading position. Once it is loaded, the out haul pulls the gun into position ready for aiming and firing. I also agree that the in haul tackle would be stowed when not in use since it stretches across the deck and is a hazard.
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Just thought I'd add my two cents. Your work is looking good and I like that you show the entire process in photos. My variation is to do everything I can before the gun carriage (with barrel attached) is installed on the deck. Once attached, all that remains is securing the breech line eyebolts to the bulwark; then fastening the two rigging ends to the bulwark and tightening the lines. The lines are glued to the deck, trimmed and a pre-made coil is put over the end to look like a continuation of the rigging. I like having everything done off the boat first. But there is more than one way to do it and your way yields great results.
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She is one beautiful boat!. Great work. I look forward to seeing photos of the real ones. Cheers.
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Just to add my compliments to the growing list. The finished model looks like a real tribute to these type of boats. Seems like there was lots of love there. Congratulations.
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Ollie: I'm impressed with your workmanship; hard to believe it's your first model. I favor the guns rigged as if awaiting an admiral's inspection (i.e. with coils and side tackles). There are a lot of possibilities that are period correct. Again, great work and I will continue to follow your build. Cheers.
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Hey wq3296. I think one of the main things I have learned from our discussions on this and other sites is that wooden ships of the period did not have a static appearance. Even the guns looked one way when the ship was 'cleared for action' and another way when sailing in heavy seas. Even in port, they were rigged one way for normal daily routine and another when awaiting an inspection by an admiral. As modelers, we research these appearances and get to choose how we want our model to be displayed. "Its all part of the adventure." Cheers.
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Gary: I am definitely going to rig the remaining 8 guns as I did the first. The 'defi' Victory build log seems to be a great source of photos and modeling techniques. (Thanks Alistair). I now have another site to use as a reference.
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Thanks for the reply. I don't have that source, but I find it interesting. I will do some research. I still like the look of the out haul rigging, however. Thanks again.
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Gary: I have been thinking about whether the outhaul tackles (and possibly the inhaul tackles) were stored when the ship was not "cleared for action". A ship not involved in combat was still sailing on the sea in all types of whether. These guns must be prevented from 'moving around' at all times. I would think these lines were needed to keep the guns in place. I have rigged the guns "out hauled", i.e. pulled up against the water way assuming that they were therefore not able to move about. Would this be sufficient? I don't know. I do know that a 'run away' gun was dangerous to both the ship and its crew. I would like to hear what others think.
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I mounted four more guns using recommendations made by Russ and Alistair. I adjusted the placement of the eyebolts for the outhaul and breech lines. And, I threaded the blocks and attached them to the carriage before mounting the guns. It was much easier. However, I noticed that because I made the gun ports closer together, there was less room between the guns. So the outhaul coils had to be wound tighter. I’m glad that Chuck Passaro’s line is so easy to work with. So, I have 6 guns installed and 8 more to go. But I’m going to work on some deck furniture next as a break from gun installation, and install more guns next week. (I notice that when I took the photo the inhaul eyebolts weren’t there; but they are now.)
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I will have to look for steel wire. I don't know what mine is made of. I only know it is 28 gauge. Cheers.
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For deck coils, I use diluted white glue (around 50-50). I apply it with a paint brush and it looks good when the glue dries. I also found that Chuck Passaro's line is much easier to work with than the kit supplied line. Good luck with the coils and gardening.
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I have decided to have the out haul tackles (side) but not the in haul tackles (rear). (I think have the names correct.) And my family really thinks the coils look neat. So, my boat is in harbor and the admiral is due to inspect at any moment.
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Hey Alistair, thanks for the advise. I see why putting the tackle bolts wider does give you more room. The breeching lines can easily go closer together. I will make that change on the rest of my guns. I will continue using 28 gauge wire until it drives me crazy. My wire seems to break easily - are there different types of wire; some stronger than others? I got mine from a jewelery shop as well. My fat fingers are probably just too rough. My blocks are 3.2mm (or 1/8 inches); I don't think I can handle the 2.5mm ones. Your line thicknesses look to be very close to mine. Thanks again for the help; and I am enjoying following your HMS Fly build.
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Hi wq3296, good to hear from you. I enlarged the gun ports to be 3/16 square. This was done by several builders due to the size of the gun barrels that came with the kit. As a result, I kept the 1/8 inch plank between the water way and the gun port, and added a 1/8 inch plank above the ports. So the height of my bulwarks above the water way is 1/8 + 3/8 + 1/8. I hope this answers your question.
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Thanks Gary. I know I have the outhaul tackle eyebolts closer to the gun port and above the breech line eyebolts. I did this based on what I saw happening on other models, including my last build. I have no idea which is correct. I am also considering using thread to strop the blocks and either tying the eyebolts or seizing them to the strop. I am also interested in what others think. Cheers.
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