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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Keep in mind that the Fair American is only my second build. But, I had the guns built and I used them when I constructed the gun ports. Also, the gun barrels can be raised and lowered somewhat. In addition, I am not going to glue the barrels to their carriage until I am ready to install the guns. Just in case. Cheers
  2. KenW
    I am pleased to see another build of the Fair American and a build log to accompany it. I also have been using Bob's log as my practicum. My keel and bulkheads were NOT plywood either. I guess, as Bob says, it is a new thing. I look forward to following your progress. Ken
  3. KenW
    What type of solder do you use? Is it easy to acquire; along with a soldering iron? Never soldered before. Thanks.
  4. KenW
    I used a hair straightener that I bought from the local pharmacy. Just let the straightener get too hot. Worked fine.
  5. KenW
    Believe me, close up the paint job doesn't look as good as the photos. But, it may be the best I can do.
  6. KenW
    I hope all had a Happy New Year; and wish all the best for 2014. Now I am back in the ‘shipyard’. I finished the port side of the outer bulwark planking and wales. I also added the cap rails (both on the fancy rail and the main rail) and painted according to the plans – except I painted the inner side of the rails black. It was all pretty straight forward except I have to improve the line between the black and gold painting.
  7. KenW
    I'm really impressed with those windows. Your craftsmanship is outstanding. Gives me something to strive after. Great work.
  8. KenW
    I finished the starboard side of the outer bulwark planking and wales, and there were several problems. I had almost completed the planking above the black strake when I realized I had used 1/16th planks when they should be 1/32nd. So I had to tear everything down and start again. The thinner planks do look better; but I left the thicker planks as the door on the unused gun port. I like the look better, even though I realize it’s probably not historically accurate. Also, the fashion piece had to be redone since the first one was too small and not adequate at all. On the finished starboard planking, I left the new fashion piece and the wales extending beyond the counter. They will be trimmed once the counter planks have been added. The ochre planks are boxwood and I will leave them unpainted. That is a big step from my last (and first) build; so I am pleased with the results so far. Ship building definitely slows down during the holiday season.
  9. KenW
    Hi Russ. I'm interested in your modified close pin clamps. Are they made by simply gluing a square piece of wood to one side of the pin? I assume you can then push up as well as in. Thanks.
  10. KenW
    I have yet another question: On your quarter badges, you have the window divided into 4 frames. Did you use the two unused window frames from the stern? If not, how did you create them? Thanks.
  11. KenW
    Thanks. I am using a 74. Can you order just one size from someplace? Or, do you have to order a whole set for just one bit? Inquiring minds want to know.
  12. KenW
    Thanks russ. I attach another photo that takes a closer look at the treenails. They aren't perfect, but probably not noticeable to anyone who doesn't build models.
  13. KenW
    I finished the planking the deck and drilled all the treenails. I decided to follow the color scheme of the Roberts Collection model; at least to a point. Chuck Passsaro has placed photos from his trip to Annapolis in the Gallery section under, “Contemporary Models from Museums and Private Collections.” I should go down to Annapolis myself since it isn't that far. Next up is to plank the outer hull along with the wales. You can get to Chuck’s photos from here: ‘http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/448-fair-american-rogers-collection-annapolis/’.
  14. KenW
    What size drill do you use for the treenails? I may be using one that is too small since I keep breaking it. Thanks.
  15. KenW
    The cabin front is created. I followed the plans that show a planked housing and the door is my own design. For the window ‘glass’, I used the window from window envelopes. Since all my monthly bills come in window envelops, I have an unlimited supply. The glue called, Krazy Glue, sold here in the states, holds the ‘glass’ in place. I put the molding across the entire front because, to me, it looks like a coaming that keeps water out of the cabin. That means that the door must open inwards and that means the hinges are on the other side of the door.
  16. KenW
    Thanks. I will see if I can find acetate sheet here. Also, I will research the Uhu glue to see if it is available here. I appreciate your help.
  17. KenW
    What is the best thing to use for windows? I don't like wax paper because it is too 'foggy'; and I don't like the clear plastic wrap. I think it should be something in-between. Thanks.
  18. KenW
    Russ: I agree, the treenail problems will probably go unnoticed. This brings up the question as to why we bother with treenails in the first place. Bob: I agree with you as well. You can always do with more sanding. Thanks.
  19. KenW
    All the treenail holes are drilled, the deck is sanded, and the result is satisfactory. It is not perfect due to two oversights I made earlier in the building process. Where the deck planks meet, one of the planks is not always the same height as the other. This must be due to an error in my process of cutting and squaring the planks. Also, when the two planks meet, the join must be in the exact center of the bulkhead. A center line should be drawn on top of each bulkhead. If these issues are corrected, the tape used to line up the treenail holes can simply follow the plank joins. Next up is the housing; and there is always more sanding that can be done.
  20. KenW
    Thanks for the tips. I am definitely not going to do the whole deck in one sitting. I did two beam lines and just tried to align the treenail holes with the plank ends. The first line is off, however. It is closest to the bow, so there will be a lot of stuff covering the error. I will try the tape method. Thanks again.
  21. KenW
    I finished the deck planking and thanks to the helpful advice of Bob, Russ and Alistair, it doesn’t look bad. So, I am ready to drill the ‘treenails’. I did some tests and I am using the pine plastic wood from DAP since my local hardware store doesn’t carry the Minwax wood filler products. The color looks good, so I’m satisfied with that. I can see that I will be drilling a lot of holes in the next few days.
  22. KenW
    I 'marked' the edges of the deck planks with pencil to simulate the caulking between planks. Marking one edge of each plank is definitely better - looks the same and helps keep your fingers cleaner. Have fun with your first build.
  23. KenW
    WOW. Thanks Alistair, Russ and Bob. I will try to use less glue, of course; but not using the damp paper towel/cloth sounds like great advise. And, I will wait to do my sanding and scraping. Also I will only use the pencil on one side. Thanks for your help and great, constructive advise. Cheers.
  24. KenW
    Actually, that's the way I do it. It's just I keep hearing that you can 'edge bend' planks but I could never get it to work. Thanks.
  25. KenW
    What is your technique for bending the plank for your cap rail? That is what I call a "sideways" bend, and I have not been able to accomplish it. Thanks.

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