lambsbk
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Everything posted by lambsbk
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I never tried that Verne. I don't know. Rick (Radman) I think was going to try that some time ago. He may know how.
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Both of the lamp types arrived today. I tested them with a 12VDC 'wall wart' transformer and they lit up fine. The units that are in a can (the 'R2D2' looking ones) will probably work better but I need to test the brightness transmission to the lanterns on the build. I'll make a simple enclosure and post the result. The second unit (the array) was also tested today. It is a slightly different unit than what is pictured above: 12VDC 600mA putting out 620 lumens. OK, that did not mean much to me either. Then I plugged it in - 10 minutes later I was STILL seeing flash spots! It lit up like the sun. And it got hot. Very hot. Quickly. I consulted the seller and he confirmed what I already found out - it has to be mounted on a heat sink. A heat sink such as is used for CPU chips would suffice. Now, I like to make my own computers and have for years and like all computer buffs had saved all my old mother boards, CPU's, video cards, etc.(all of these have heat sinks). That is I saved them UNTIL last month! I made room for my future 'official' work bench for modeling by getting rid of the large plastic tub of collected computer 'junk.' Darn. You never need anything until YOU THROW IT AWAY. So - bottom line - it is hot enough that unless it is well cooled some of the heat will transmit to the fiber optic plastic cable and that my friends means it may melt it. The chip will need LOTS of cooling and the distance to the light receiver end of the optic cables will need to be extended to 4 to 6". But it DOES LIGHT UP A ROOM! The nice thing about these particular lamps is their ease of use. NO external resistor is required (although to be sure I did not burn out the array I used a 1ohm 10W resistor placed in line for my tests.)
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They are stationary Verne. Thick steel over a wooden circular core with a wide spiral chain guide. I believe these were fit in the 1923 refit. I am going to include a pic of the diagram from Marquardt's AOTS. It was used by me to guide my design but I do not know if they date to 1812. It is a pertial scan and I will try to get a better one to you. I posted this earlier in my build log to show the rigging of the bitt.
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Verne: It all looks good. The riding bitts look like the current ship which uses chain anchor cable instead of rope. I don't know if they will change back to the original riding bitts or not at her next refit (scheduled to start next year I think.) I hope you are having fun with the build.
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I'm still working out the details of the pumps and capstan Verne. It is hard to figure out where to put all the gun deck deck's furniture so they don't interfere with the Revell fittings as well. The ladders are going to have to be thought out a little more for my build and there are a couple ladders that I do not believe Revell included in the kit. Enjoy the reading. Nice price,
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Sjors: Depending on the type and extent of the pneumonia it could be several WEEKS before you are feeling like you have completely won this battle. Hang in there and report ANY backsliding to your doc....and a recliner at home is better than any hospital bed I can think of - hoping you recover sooner than later. Dave Smith, MD
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A couple of simple changes but here are the revised pics. I am hoping it is right but if not it is easy to change right now. Once the anchor cable is rigged rightly I'll work the rope and give it a little gravitational effect. From here...it's back to the never ending canons and a try at the tackle hooks and blocks.
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Just catching up Jerry. Very nice. I have never heard of using fiber glass like this before. I had always wondered how, after such a long time building these models anyone would float them on water (a possible sinking turn of events seemed unthinkable). But your resin cast is tough and waterproof. Again, very nicely done.
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Jerry: This diagram was in Marquardt's AOTS. Is this the configuration that you are describing? Thanks.
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Thanks Jerry. I'll re-rig it and get up another pic.
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I was getting a little bored with the breeching (arghhh...and that does not include the tackle for each gun!) but they are 75% done. Anyway I decided to put a few of the elements I have been working on for the last few months together (the 'mini-models' Verne ). So I worked the forward end of the gun deck. I did not like the look of the flimsy bow sprit bitt and so shored it up a little 'bit.' It is probably not quite vintage but there is only so much I could do (i.e. because of the bow sprit being molded to the existing Revell brace.) I added a longer anchor cable from Chuck's Syren Model Ship Co. (Tan 0.62 diameter) and dropped it through the corners of the midship cargo hatch. It is secured around the riding bitts but I think I will need to revise these moorings just a little.
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Evan I think your build log is starting to take on a life of its own.
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The online search (Revell 05062 and 85-0398) appears to be without a visible change. Although one of the 05062 kits I saw had the copper plates painted by the factory. In addition (although I do not know the kit number) I am sure the kit I bought as a teenager in the 60's had the copper pre-painted.
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Sjors: Get well soon. I hope the second round of antibiotics is a winner. Dave
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I have ordered the light sources for the fiber optic light box and should be able to experiment in a few days. I picked 2 types to test shown below. I will post the findings and 'how to' when finalized. These should both be adequate in lumen output and have 30,000 hours bulb life if they are powered correctly.
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I agree. In general I am happy with the Revel kit (except for the 3 way split in her deck!). I am adding the detail to my build for the fun of it. On the fiber optic placement one thought led to another. I knew what I wanted and then figured out a way to try to make that work. My early pics show how bad I got it on the first set of light sources for the build but I revised them to the point where I am happy...and that is what it is about. Anything else becomes, well, drudgery. I am certainly grateful to have a chance to rework and perhaps even finish this classic Revell kit.
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Of course not John. I am afraid I am not qualified for similar reasons ... except maybe as a ship's surgeon (splinters, sore throats, minor cuts, etc, etc.) Probably not enough to earn my salt on board. :) :)
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Uh..John: Is that project building her or are you signing up for the 4 week cruise to sail her?
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Daniel: nice pics! Verne: I too had doubts about the Revell model being able to mount the capstan on the gun deck. It is a CLOSE fit due to the hatches but it can be done according to my previous measurements. I have set aside the styrene in a plastic bag with the diagrams and will be getting to that project after the pumps. I am working toward the aft portions of the deck. I am looking forward to seeing your progress on this mini-project. BTW: I have taken the same stance and now look at each of these additional build works as models to themselves...the whole will be equal to the sum of the parts...good or bad. It's what keeps me going.
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Yes Kim part 13 is a strange breed. It is definitely oversized for the projects and I do not think I will be using it in the more visible areas of my build due to lack of strength of the part and it's scale discrepancies. I would be interested in seeing those pics Kim. Do you have a link to them?
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Ahh... I am eyeing that job on my Connie build. I have decided to scrap the plastic molded ones and try making them myself. But I have some trepidation about it not having done them before. Well, I will dive in when the time comes.
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Jus catching up on the build. It is a beautiful ship Sjors. Your hard work really shows through her.
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Mark: It looks like there are already a couple of good tutorials on the LED lighting techniques right here on MSW. I will add to that discussion when I build the light box for the optics. I am still looking at those variables. I would just add a tidbit: if the light reception at the optic is low it can be magnified by holding a flame from a candle or lighter NEAR the end of the optic. Watch it carefully for a slight melt and convex widening (don't let it turn over like a 'mushroom top') and this will increase the reception by 25 - 40%.
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The light source should be as close to natural light as possible. An LED rated at 3000K (low temp) should do the trick. It should also be bright - 5 ~ 7 watts. The only current source of such light is in the new natural light LEDs. The newest have high wattage, have good heat sinks, and can be incorporated into small circuit 'light boxes.' I'll describe this a bit in a week or 2.
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I think this will be my last post on this thread in regards to instructions for now. I welcome posts from other members to show modifications, suggest other possible approaches, or just to comment. I hope that this thread has helped you with ideas on how to achieve adding some life from lighting to your build. For me it has been challenging fun to make these lanterns and figure out how to make them. I plan on adding a flicker effect on 4 or 5 channels (http://www.northcountryradio.com/Kitpages/ctrlwiring.htm) to the optics from the base of the mount and am hoping to turn a bit of Blue Jacket transom Connie brass into a touch on/touch off switch. Hopefully in the next year or 2 or...
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