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lambsbk

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Everything posted by lambsbk

  1. Jay: I just read the reference you provided to the Batavia. It is a frighteningly ill-fated ship. In spite of it's history, the construct of the ship appears beautiful. Good luck.
  2. My original did not last as long as yours. Sadly, she was demasted (at least partially) when last I saw her. I am still working on the gun deck of this build. I'll post a progress pic in the next few days (hopefully). Barrel and scuttlebutt. I have been a little slower of late. We got some new Laz-e-boy furniture this week and I have been trying to 'break them in'.
  3. Thanks Azzoun for the kuddos. Yes, it's kind of interesting how we have both restarted this hobby which we loved as kids...I wonder what changed? For me the kids are grown and life has settled down a bit...but I really just had a strong desire to finally build and FINISH this model. MSW forum has raised the bar of my build. Following other modeler's techniques has really turned it, at least on my build, into a desire to produce a work of art. Like you I am not very sure of my skill level and MSW really has helped support those insecurities in applied modeling technique. Good luck and thanks for watching.
  4. Sailcat, I did not know there was a difference. I think some of the artists that painted the Connie did not know this either since her copper is sometimes painted green. I had not thought about it but copper pipe I believe bears you out on this: darker inside, green rust outside. Thanks.
  5. hmmm... I had assumed the B & W photo was from the 1860-70's based on the lantern style. The blocks in that photo definetly appear larger to me. I wonder if they have been down sized with time? Thanks John for getting these pics posted. I had not seen the retraction tackle for the guns before and the buckets are a nice addition. Are they for powder or water? Either way I may take a stab at making some of them.
  6. They are actually pretty simple. The barrels are 1/2" oak dowels and the bands are electrical shrink wrap tubing which were shrunk into position with a hot air gun. The staves were gouged out of the dowel with a dremel.
  7. I did not get much done tonight but I turned a couple of 300 gallon barrels for the galley area. I set them near there positions and will probably use only one. I still have to make their bases and secure them with line.
  8. Ok Rick: these are the "Hull Experiments." I hope they help. Flat black and terpentine wash next to copper only. Flat blue and Flat Green with terpentine wash Looking lengthwise down the hull gives a better sense of the variability in the rust pattern. These are next to unwashed copper.
  9. Thanks Russ. I was planning on doing just that. The change of position I was referring to is the 1/8" or so that closes together and tightens up the Gun deck to the bulwark when the Spar deck is glued into position. Since the tackle is pretty close on tolerences I do not think I can afford a change of position by that much. I am hoping that pre-compressing the sides will prevent that change from occuring. Thank you very much for your insight and thank you for following my build. Dave
  10. Rick: I will post a pic of the copper wash effect I used on the spare hull so you can compare. Like Sailcat I tried a couple of washes (black and copper rust patina) before going with the 'new' copper look. I was not as happy with the 'new' look but my wife really did not like the patina. Since I am going to display this build in the living room where she is going to see it as much as I am her vote definitely counted.
  11. Thanks Russ. Yes that is the question. That agrees with my calculations as well. And you are correct, there is not much room for the tackle at this scale. I have decided to 'pre-compress' the hull to the final configuration to prevent these blocks and tackle from changing position when I install the Spar deck.
  12. Russ: I don't know if I can get the block down to 1/16". Were you talking about the width or the length of the block. I am a bit naive here. Thanks.
  13. Rick: I think the variation is really cool. What you could do to speed up the process (and to keep the 'smooth line' metal look) is tape off an entire line of the copper hull and then all you have to worry about is the vertical lines to keep straight on the plate painting. It will be a little easier. That will cut down on some of the taping. Good luck. Dave
  14. John: I had seen this on the web...a very good detail peice with the sails and how about that water! Thanks. Russ: thanks for the feed back. I'll get started on these next week.
  15. I have been trying to work out the block size for the gun tackle. I am going to explain my methods in hopes that you more experienced modeler's can correct my math if it is in error. The only source I have for the block size is the below photo which I printed in 8 x 10" format. The angle to the block above the harness cask will be used. The scale is ratioed from the gun breech which is easy to measure in both the photo and the model. The block is viewed with a combination of 2 angles: 1) the angle of the camera to the block and in addition 2) the angle of the block to the bulwark. The block to camera angle is approx. 23 degrees and the tackle to the bulwark apprx. 40 degrees for a total of 63 degrees. The sin of 63 is .891. The inverse is needed to multiply the length so 1/.891 is 1.122. The block in the photo is 24/64" so multiplying I come up with a total length if veiwed from the block sideways of 27/64". The eye and hook work out to 25/64" using the same method. In my photo which I printed at 8 x 10" the gun breech is 45/64" and on the model it is 12.5/64". The ratio is therefore 0.277. Multiplying this ratio to the apparent block size makes the block size on the 1/96 model of 7.5/64" (the hook and block eye add another 6.9/64 inches). The "A" size block is 8/64". That is pretty close...and I THINK I can accurately use them for the tackle.
  16. Thanks Augie. That is indeed the info I viewed earlier. I will save the link as well.
  17. Oh how I hate those eye bolts. They do not hold up under pressure. I have only installed 20 so far and have broke one already. I have seriously considered using some brass ones.
  18. Andy: I think I saw a flag making forum here at MSW. I kind of made a mental note about it and I don't know if it was in MSW 1.0 or 2.0. I read through it and it was interesting but the flag mounting seemed, for me, eons away and I don't recall the particulars. If I find it again I'll pass on the link.
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