themadchemist

Cheers Max, we work the same way then.
 
I have been working with the tops. It's funny how fast this step feels after doing slow work like the ratlines.
 
What I've done is making holes for the  connections for the ropes/next level deadeyes holders.
 
I also tried to make the skanskläder for the mainmast:
 

 

 

 

 
 
/Matti
 
 

I am currently decorating and between coats As the sun is shining,I thought I would take some pics of where the build is up to at the moment.No pics of the gratings yet as I will photograph these when I start building them up with their combings which will be in Ebony.
   I have fitted the deck clamps back to roughly amidships.They extend right up to the deck underside.This isn't historically correct,however it is my intention to cut a 3mm deep rebate to take the lodging knees.This creates a flat surface for the knees to abut to,rather than contending with the severe tumblehome at this point.When assembled,the finished appearance will be the same as if I had built it historically correct.The hooked scarph joints are clearly visible.Both these clamps and the scarphed spirketting will be fitted with copper fastenings 0.8mm diameter extending completely through the hull as it stands now.I am undecided as to whether to represent bolt heads on the deck clamp fixings to illustrate proud bolt heads.
   Work is progressing at a slow but steady pace on the deck plank fastenings.I have fitted two staggered fixings per main beam and one central for each ledge.The hatch openings have been roughly cut to size.Final finishing will be done when the hatches are made up.The area in front of the main hatch has further planking to be added for the flat capstan base.I got carried away drilling holes,I could have left this section  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Actually shouldn't the Jingle Bells have audio coming from it?  Ask the Admiral about that one, because I'm sure know you can do it.
 
Someone hand Popeye another can of spinach, the confidence enhancing hybrid strain.
 
 

There were three options for the cabins: wood, canvas on a wooden frame and pure canvas like a shower curtain. 
 
All three versions of course were taken down in case of clearing the decks, but this is well known from the captains and admiral room bulkheads, as seen too in MaC ;-)
 
For the canvas I used washi paper for model planes, primed with clear varnish and put several thin layers of white and light rust paint (white paint with rusty stirring screws). Applied both sides of course.
 
For the gunners cabin I opted for the semifixed cabin with canvas on a wooden frame, as he surely had some material and documents to be kept off the reach of curious hands. The other cabins probably will be the shower curtains, just lets see how this works in the model.
 

 
Funnily the transparency turned out just like I wanted it too :-)
 

 
Took the cardboard template out and fitted the wooden frame accordingly onto the canvas ...
 

 
... opened the door ...
 

 
... fixed the bit in place and the gunner might move in. For sure he still will bring some chests, his kit and some bedding stuff to satisfy his nesting instinct and to feel home and cosy :-)
 

 
Also the first lieutenant has already his place fixed ...
 

 
... while those two little shipyard workers still discuss on how to proceed further ...
 

 
Cheers, Daniel

Thanks Mobbsie, Augie and Ben.  Mobbsie - the overheating problem hasn't been solved as such, but I'm keeping an eye on it and if necessary will do my sanding in shorter bursts to avoid the problem.  I figure that the worst case is that I will need to get the motor rewound at some point.
 
Resumption of Play
Testing of Frame Bolts
Jeff’s drawings indicate large bolts/treenails either side of the chocks on the double frames.  The drawings in AOTS show a significant number of additional bolts on these frames. Having seen these additional bolts added on Spanien’s build log on MSB, I decided that I would also add these.  As far as I can tell from the scantling list in AOTS, these bolts would be one inch in diameter. At scale that translates to 0.53mm. Compromising between accuracy and aesthetics, I have chosen to use copper wire of 0.9mm diameter.  I stretched the wire to breaking point to work harden it as well as to straighten it, giving it a final diameter of 0.8mm.  I’ll call that the diameter of the bolt head, not the shaft!  
 
These were inserted into pre-drilled holes in the frames and secured with epoxy.  Once the glue had set, the frames were sanded to remove excess glue and set the bolt heads flush. My dilemma now is whether to leave these as bright copper, or to blacken them (which I think would be a more accurate representation of iron).  I tested this with my Test Frame D1/D2, leaving one side “natural” and the other blackened.  The good thing about using copper in lieu of brass is that copper can be blackened with Liver of Sulphur (LoS), which can be painted on in situ and the excess cleaned off with water, without staining the surrounding timber.  Here’s a few pics of the test pieces.
 
Here is an overall shot of the natural copper bolts:
 

 
And for comparison, an overall shot of the blackened bolts:
 

 
A close-up of the natural copper:
 

 
And a close-up of the blackened bolts:
    I’m leaning towards the blackened bolts, but am not yet decided.  Opinions welcome!  
Here’s a couple of shots of the test frame in the jig:
      All looks good to proceed, so it's back to making frames and fitting chocks - properly this time!  

Thank you for the "likes" and comments.  
 
So far, nothing I thought was "horrible' was.  Easily fixable once I got over the shock of seeing it blown up.
 
This is part that Hahn gives minimal help by "leaving it up the modeler to fit and finish".   Last time, his recommended method didn't work for me.  It involved running the deck clamp to the stern frames and then tying in a couple of vertical stringers.  It just didn't look right nor was my craftsmanship good enough to get it consistant and proper.   So here's the plan:
 

 
Inside the red area is where I'll be focused next.  I'm now going to cut a piece of 1/8" thick cherry to shape, thin it down to the thickness of the frame forward and taper to half thickness where it ties into the stern frame.  It's pretty much a straight line according to the plans from above.. I'll finesse it in and then cut the doorway before mounting it.   The top of the piece (green) is the cut line for when the ship is removed from the buildboard so that's the upper limit.  It needs to be deep enough to catch the deck clamp as I'll need to add a beam on the gun deck as well as the clamp near the top for the quarterdeck.  It should be a lot sturdier for planking the inside and the outside and strengthen that stern framing some.
 
The doing should be a lot simpler than the describing.  We shall see what we shall see on the 'morrow after I fair the inside of the stern timbers. 

I've often heard that that it's not about the destination but the journey that's important.  I agree but this journey is currently being measured in inches and not miles. 
 
I added the timbers the taffrail will sit on and worked up and installed the two outer timbers for the counter. The whole stern area was then rough faired.  Final fairing will be just before planking. 
 
The taffrail timber needs to be shaped after cutting loose the stern (the red curved line).  I still have a lot of shaping to that curve and most can be done while it's in frame and on the build board but I need to set up the rest of the stern framing.   This will be filling in the area between the final cant frame and the stern frames with framing for mounting the quarter galleries and the hatchway from the Great Cabin.   I'm have some ideas on how to do this as this another area that Hahn is a little vague on how to do.
 
Anyway enough out of me, here's the photos.   Feel free to click on and enlarge them to see everything in horrible detail.   
 

 
 

Journeyman???  I'm just a mere apprentice still. 
 
After singing a chorus of "Alice's Restaurant" yesterday and a Thanksgiving meal that couldn't be beat... I got to spend time in the shipyard.. yippiee.
 
I've cut, shaped, and installed two more timbers.  Seems that all the curved timbers from port to starboard have different curves and one is canted at about 45 degree angle from the waterline.  I'm not sure why.   The two finally fitted are for the upper and lower sills for the lights. The top sill timber is also the last deck beam for the quarterdeck.  The lower sill is hidden behind the planking.  
 
I still need to fair these two before I go much further.   There's two more sets of timbers, one is for the counter and the other is for the taffrail to sit on.
 
Anyway, here's the picture I took for my checking as the camera shows more than the human eye (to me anyway).  I'm pleased with these two timbers and well turn to on fairing them in and trimming down the lower sill timber.

 

Forgot to post the pics.....
 

My dog makes a good dark background to show the thread, lol.
 
I now knot the two threads together, do this on each side. I trim off one of the threads & leave one hanging from the knot & trim it to its proper length. I then apply Fray Check to hold to keep anything from unraveling.

Thanks Grant & John. And thanks CaptainSteve for the tip on the reef points. I modified it a little. I'll try to show the steps I'm taking to tie the reef points. My camera doesn't get as close in as I would like I hope it show it ok.
 
First I pre-tie a knot in a line of sewing thread. I pull this through the reef band with the sewing needle - pulling the knot up to the sail. I cut it off on the un-knotted side with enough extra length to do some tying. Then I do the same thing all over again from the opposite way (through the same hole) each thread knotted on one side passing by each other through the sail with a knot on each side. Now each side has 2 threads hanging out - one knotted & one not knotted. 
 
 

Thanks, it's slow and maybe not as well done as it could be but I'm not displeased with it considering some of the troubles it's given me through out the build so far and I'm not as good at this as I use to be.
 
.....
 
not much more done today, I'm doing more reading than anything.
 
Installed the rudder, glued down the hinges and trimmed off the top of the rudder post.  After doing all the work on this rudder I think it would have been easier to just glued the rudder on after shaping and then faked in the hinges as they don't actually move anyways.
 

 
still have the pin nails to put in the hinges.
 
Then I shaped the tiller.  Wasn't too bad doing this but the piece gets pretty thin fast.  Just glad its a harder wood.
 

 
Instead of drilling out a hole, I just cut out the back end and I'll glue it on this way.   Easier to then adjust for the angle of the tiller.
 

 
Painted it red also and put on some finish,
 

 
Need to age the tiller and rudder yet.

Hey Nigel,
Beautiful work ...again. Hopefully the last practice run.
 
Is the Russian Master your referring to Roma's Le Requin as its gun deck gratings are single pinned. His build is the reason I purchase the ANCRE monography. I also love that he nailed the inside of the gun port doors, such a beautiful touch. It definitely deserves it's gold and Roma's passing was a great lose to this hobby.
 
You spoke of shaping, how do you plan to achieve the curvature? I think the single pin/nails is attractive, two is boarder line crazy, but we already know that    
 
 
By the way here is Roma's work, may he RIP.
 
gunports
 
 
gun deck grating
 
 
Look at this - 4 pinned masterpiece
 

And here comes another round of cardboard dummies with refined partitioning before I move on to produce the final ones.
 
As the Vic was an admirals ship in 1805 there were a lot of extra personal on board. This made me opt for a forth cabin as shown on Royal Sovereign in 1807.
ZAZ0083  http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79874.html

 

 

 

 

 
XXXDAn

So I decided that good is good enough, and I'm tired of painting black layers.  So, I decided tonight would be the night for the 'big reveal'.  How well did my masking work?  Was all of this a huge waste of time because the black bled all over the yellow ochre?  (insert drum roll here)
 
 
 

 
I can live with this.  This is prior to buffing (not fully dry on the final coat of black) and adding a couple layers of clear poly.  Needs a bit of touch up here and there, especially in the bottom and top of the gun ports, but certainly a paint job I can live with for my first run at wood painting.
 
As far as colors go, I painted 4 different color strips (3 different blues and a green) and laid them up against the hull to eyeball, and while the blue certainly adds a nice splash of color, I think I'm going to be different from every other AVS build I've seen, and leave the sheer strake black.  In the instruction manual, painting the sheer strake blue, red, or green is 'optional', and I'm kind of fond of the black right now.
 
Tomorrow I can put the taffrail on, and then apply a couple coats of poly to protect the paint, then it's time to start the 2nd planking of the hull! 

while I was messing around with the Harbor build,  I thought I'd flesh out another aspect of this build.   I was thinking about the ice maker.   first I thought of a grill along the bottom.......and two doors above it.
 

 
then I thought about an access panel on the side.
 

 
it now needs paint and brass detail......along with some fins in the grill,  but this is how it will look.
 

jee.......I didn't even get to the good part    I was going to show it,  but Gibbs had other ideas......he wanted to go in the living room.   I told him it was after 10:00 PM.........he might as well go back and lay with Kevin,  but he wouldn't have it.   you really ought to see him......it would make you laugh.   I ended up feeding his Frankenstein.  so here it is.........
 
safe to say that I have broken away from the Holiday build......but it doesn't mean I didn't do anything with it { I have a small update for that build too}.   after I was finished doing the rough draft on the reel,  I looked at the cap rails......yup.....I need to get them on the build.   the fore end of the starboard side rail was rounded off and slotted to fit over the extension I had fitted in the fore deck overhang.  I had also notched where it would run by the stanchion.
 

 

 
filler was used to take care of the imperfection at the tip.   I had to fix it at the stern,  because it ended up inwards too far.   I did the port side the same way.
 

 
after adding three bulwark posts to the transom bulwark,  the rail was cemented in place.   then it was trimmed,  and rounded to mimic the rest of the rail work
 

 

 
so........now it just the portholes that is holding back the paint work.   soon......my friends......very soon!
 
thanks to all of you who hit the like button.......And to those who commented! 

I finished the framing on the front wall.   now the objective here will be to get the wall sheeted and the side rails on.
 

 
after sheeting the port side lower portion,  the side rail was installed.
 

 
then it was to continue sheeting the wall with the bits and pieces I have lying around.
 

 
the starboard lower portion was put in place.
 

 
then the starboard side rail was added.
 

 
outside of the trimming around the door and windows,  the wall is done.
 

 

 
 
 
 

When we can no longer laugh at the small misfortunes of a hobby, the fun is gone...and Hobbies SHOULD ALWAYS be FUN.
 
I remember on my Petersboro canoe build, Midwest recommended wiping the outer surface with CA as a sealer. Seemed a strange idea...but I was new (my 1st)...needless to say I sealed it alright...to my hand   I guess that's why skin was created to grow back
 
One nice thing, I didn't have to worry about dropping it.

I'm not knocking the kit supplied anything, Alistair.
I'm just saying it is nice to upgrade If one wishes. One could say that filing the flashing seams on the white metal castings and adding photo-etched insignia and flint locks could be just as big an upgrade as new guns. Or one could simply paint the guns as they are, the originals probably has cast flashing and a much rougher finish then we simulate. Al I was saying is that its nice for a builder to have options and MSW teaches many differing ways to upgrade a kit, from modification to kit pieces, to completely replacing them.
 
The white metal castings of figureheads, quarter badges and stern pieces are another place where modifying or replacing a piece can make HUGE differences and whether modifying the kit pieces, or by buying a new piece, or making a piece completely from scratch, it is just a way for a builder to exhibit their personality. I personally enjoy seeing scratch built pieces, but as with anything, that requires skills, which we slowly accumulate over time and each build becomes better as we learn how best to modify the kit to our liking. That's a part of building I personally enjoy.
On a painted ship, one might question changing woods, but differing woods are easier to work with and give a better fit....or like in the case of the Holly decking, it just plain looks more striking then the kit decking.
It is really not about what one uses, so much as how one uses what they have. One who spends the most on extra parts doesn't have the superior model, but the builder that creates a more enjoyable and satisfying build for themselves has, as FUN is the measure of this hobby...and only the builder themselves can judge that in the end.

I'm impressed with all of you, frankly. I'm on my first build with the AVS and based on everyone's input, I've got some pear planking on the way to upgrade the decks from bass wood. But other than that, I planning to build straight from the box.

I've been watching this thread about the cannons and decided that if anyone ever wants the definition of "geek", this is a great example. I mean that in a good way and hope nobody takes offense.

But really, how many places in the world is there a conversation about upgrading the cannon castings for your wooden ship model?  

I have to agree with Keith.  I have not built straight from the box in years. Replacing parts that I did not like or that I could do a better job.  To me a kit makes things easier and quicker.  And if the kit part was better than I could do I would use it.
David B

Hi
Nice looking cannon there Brian. Can't believe you can assemble it without glue! I'd suggest you get the sides much tighter to the barrel but you probably already figured that. I just used the sharp end of a toothpick for the quoin handle on my Fly cannons - works just fine and is very fine in size but with the AVS you are at a larger scale so your effort there will show nicely. Good stuff.
 
Keith - I wouldn't knock the kit supplied cannons on the AVS too much. I used them and they came up really well I think. Fully rigged etc.At the time I had no idea you could get cannons from other sources so I didn't even try.

I agree, I wouldn't touch the original....and I'm thinking down the road after several other builds... then revisiting the first for a side by side. My DSotM wandered far from a pilot and at some point I'd like to rebuild a historic pilot, possibly even POF.
 
You also have that Hannah to consider....  

Here you go Keith.
 

 
The kit guns are really not bad at all.  They are a bit 'fatter' than the brass guns, but are reasonably clean and wouldn't have needed a great deal of clean up.  The Syren carriages come with far more parts, everything other than what you see here would have been made from various pieces of walnut (I presume - haven't actually read that part of the instructions) in the kit, rather than getting all of them nicely pre-cut.  I'd have had to drill out the barrels in the kit guns as well, as they are only indented slightly.
 
The Syren guns & carriages are actually 1:64 scale 6 pounders, but I printed out the plans from Chucks site at 1:1 scale and laid the kit barrels on top of them before I ordered them, and they are almost identical in length to the kit 4 pounders.