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barkeater

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About barkeater

  • Birthday 02/18/1953

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    barkeater@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1.    ERS Rich reacted to a post in a topic: Planking disaster
  2. barkeater
    You're ok, just taper the remaining planks. The first planking in a double planking is really just a base to apply the second planking to. I would get rid of the nails as has previously been noted. You can't sand them. Use some wood filler and sand nice and smooth to receive the second planking. Have fun. Rich
  3.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: Dauphin Royal 1752 - 1:48 - French 3-deck 110-gun ship
  4.    robert952 reacted to a post in a topic: Planking precision and wood filler
  5.    Some Idea reacted to a post in a topic: Planking precision and wood filler
  6.    ERS Rich reacted to a post in a topic: Planking precision and wood filler
  7.    SiriusVoyager reacted to a post in a topic: Planking precision and wood filler
  8.    Ryland Craze reacted to a post in a topic: Planking precision and wood filler
  9.    RossR reacted to a post in a topic: Planking precision and wood filler
  10.    Knocklouder reacted to a post in a topic: Planking precision and wood filler
  11. barkeater
    Here's a tip I don't think anybody has mentioned. The tapered surface of the plank should always go against an already installed plank. The planks free edge is therefore straight and any gap that needs to be corrected is against an installed plank and readily apparent before glueing. Also, if you use steam bending, let the finished plank sit overnight in place before gluing. Wet wood swells. Degree is minimal but you want to get the tightest fit you can. Rich here's a tip I don't
  12. barkeater
    I've been working on the first planking. I thought I ordered natural strips but I either hit the wrong button or they sent me the wrong color. Doesn't matter as this will all be covered up. It does look though like it would glow in the dark at this point, however. Not quite sure yet how the planking is going to wind up at the stern. I may be able to continue or put in an additional piece. oh well, that's part of the fun figuring it out. Rich
  13. barkeater
    Welcome aboard. Have fun. Rich
  14.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: Block size calculations
  15.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: L'Invention 1799 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:48
  16.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: L'Invention 1799 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:48
  17. barkeater started following L'Invention 1799 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:48
  18. barkeater
    The bulkheads have been installed as well as the sub decks for both the main deck and quarterdecks. There is a foredeck, but this is open to the main deck along its aft portion. I will not do a subdeck but rather a single plank on beams. I found two slightly different sets of plans from the NMR. One has two masts while the other has three and the quarterdecks are different lengths. I went with the 3 masts as this is how she is depicted by John Cleverly the Younger on her Nordic expedition with the Racehorse. Next job is fairing.
  19.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: LA CREOLE/ LA GUADELOUPE by matiz - 1:48 - by Tiziano Mainardi from Boudriot plans
  20.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: Planking calculator advice.
  21. barkeater
    Ronald, Think of the hull as one big batten instead of dividing it up into multiple smaller battens. I plank from the keel up. Now, I know at the top planking at the bulwarks, if I've cut out my bulkheads correctly, I will have a true or correct run of the planks. The needed taper of planks in between the keel and the top plank can therefore be calculated. Using the entire hull gives me the advantage that I can correct any tapers that need to be made gradually rather than having to make larger or greater corrections in a briefer run. This is especially useful along the stern where you can have an area where you need to increase your widths and have another area where you need to taper. I don't mean to disparage other methods, but this method works best for me. Rich
  22. barkeater
    I measure the run of each bulkhead once the first planking is done and pencil them in on the hull at their appropriate bulkhead. I then do a run of 10 planks and remeasure allowing me to adjust plank widths ahead of time repeating every 10 planks. This prevents me from running into trouble and having to use a drop a plank or stealer. I do trenails and plank lengths in scale. To help facilitate this I may add false bulkheads where needed to allow me to stay below 20 feet to a plank in scale. Rich
  23. barkeater
    Mark, As Jim said, you can purchase milled lumber which is actually easier than milling your own for the planking or deck. The exception would be if you want to include exotic woods such as yellow heart or ebony where milled pieces can't be obtained. The one machine I would find tough to replace by other means is a scroll saw for cutting odd shapes. I have a table saw and a thickness planner. I find the thickness planner very useful for making sure the stock I personally milled is uniform. I also have a mini lathe. I don't have a drill press. Welcome to scratch building. It's a lot of fun and it opens up a lot more opportunities as to what you can build. Rich
  24. barkeater
    What scale? I've used the liquid glass product before, and it works well as long as your openings are not too big. I work in 1/48 scale. If your window is divided into multiple panes, it makes it easier. I've used thread to make panes in the frame. Also, the liquid glass is semi opaque. Lastly, I have bought mica chips which I'm going to try on my current build but have no experience with yet. Rich
  25. barkeater
    Rabbet line is done, and bulkheads have been cut out. I will trim them to fit the keel assembly as I go. Also next up framing out the stern assembly. Rich
  26.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: need references to do some model repairs in Northern Virginia/DC/Maryland area
  27. barkeater
    If you are talking about furniture (steering wheel, ships bell, catheads etc.), I pin these with one of the brass-colored nails they include in kits. For glue I use cyanoacrylate on the nail shank and a small bit of wood glue on the wood parts where applicable (areas free of varnish). Rich
  28. barkeater
    I use room temperature water, but I would think 20 minutes should do it for 2mm. Mahogany tends to be a bit brittle. Don't overly force it. With a tight bend you may need to partially bend it and repeat your water bath before bending more. Rich
  29. barkeater
    The Carcass bomb vessel saw action in the Seven Years War as well as the American Revolution. Horatio Nelson served on her as a midshipman during the arctic exploration of 1773. The build will be double plank on bulkhead. Plans are from the National Maritime Museum. It will be as originally commissioned with mortars which were removed for the arctic exploration. Rich
  30.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: Anybody know how to attach this block to the gaff boom? (HM Sherbourne Vanguard)
  31. barkeater
    Congratulation. I redid part of a barn two years ago for my workshop and love it. Rich
  32. barkeater
    Gregg, I noticed in your drawing that there isn't a yard arm cleat. I don't know where you are on your build, but these help your lines from slipping when under tension. They are a lot easier to do before the yard is hung. They are easy to fabricate, I first drill the cleat for the trenail. Then I glue it in place and drill into the yard itself then insert a glue coated trenail. They varied over time and country of origin. The ones I did would be from 1660 to 1815 according to James Lees "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War Rich

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