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barkeater

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About barkeater

  • Birthday 02/18/1953

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    barkeater@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: LA CREOLE/ LA GUADELOUPE by matiz - 1:48 - by Tiziano Mainardi from Boudriot plans
  2.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: I Have an Itch to Scratch
  3.    John Murray reacted to a post in a topic: Planking calculator advice.
  4.    robert952 reacted to a post in a topic: Planking calculator advice.
  5.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: Planking calculator advice.
  6.    Ronald-V reacted to a post in a topic: Planking calculator advice.
  7. barkeater
    Ronald, Think of the hull as one big batten instead of dividing it up into multiple smaller battens. I plank from the keel up. Now, I know at the top planking at the bulwarks, if I've cut out my bulkheads correctly, I will have a true or correct run of the planks. The needed taper of planks in between the keel and the top plank can therefore be calculated. Using the entire hull gives me the advantage that I can correct any tapers that need to be made gradually rather than having to make larger or greater corrections in a briefer run. This is especially useful along the stern where you can have an area where you need to increase your widths and have another area where you need to taper. I don't mean to disparage other methods, but this method works best for me. Rich
  8.    John Murray reacted to a post in a topic: Planking calculator advice.
  9.    robert952 reacted to a post in a topic: Planking calculator advice.
  10. barkeater
    I measure the run of each bulkhead once the first planking is done and pencil them in on the hull at their appropriate bulkhead. I then do a run of 10 planks and remeasure allowing me to adjust plank widths ahead of time repeating every 10 planks. This prevents me from running into trouble and having to use a drop a plank or stealer. I do trenails and plank lengths in scale. To help facilitate this I may add false bulkheads where needed to allow me to stay below 20 feet to a plank in scale. Rich
  11.    SaltyScot reacted to a post in a topic: I Have an Itch to Scratch
  12.    No Idea reacted to a post in a topic: I Have an Itch to Scratch
  13.    GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic: I Have an Itch to Scratch
  14.    Jim Lad reacted to a post in a topic: I Have an Itch to Scratch
  15. barkeater
    Mark, As Jim said, you can purchase milled lumber which is actually easier than milling your own for the planking or deck. The exception would be if you want to include exotic woods such as yellow heart or ebony where milled pieces can't be obtained. The one machine I would find tough to replace by other means is a scroll saw for cutting odd shapes. I have a table saw and a thickness planner. I find the thickness planner very useful for making sure the stock I personally milled is uniform. I also have a mini lathe. I don't have a drill press. Welcome to scratch building. It's a lot of fun and it opens up a lot more opportunities as to what you can build. Rich
  16. barkeater
    What scale? I've used the liquid glass product before, and it works well as long as your openings are not too big. I work in 1/48 scale. If your window is divided into multiple panes, it makes it easier. I've used thread to make panes in the frame. Also, the liquid glass is semi opaque. Lastly, I have bought mica chips which I'm going to try on my current build but have no experience with yet. Rich
  17. barkeater
    Rabbet line is done, and bulkheads have been cut out. I will trim them to fit the keel assembly as I go. Also next up framing out the stern assembly. Rich
  18.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: need references to do some model repairs in Northern Virginia/DC/Maryland area
  19. barkeater
    If you are talking about furniture (steering wheel, ships bell, catheads etc.), I pin these with one of the brass-colored nails they include in kits. For glue I use cyanoacrylate on the nail shank and a small bit of wood glue on the wood parts where applicable (areas free of varnish). Rich
  20. barkeater
    I use room temperature water, but I would think 20 minutes should do it for 2mm. Mahogany tends to be a bit brittle. Don't overly force it. With a tight bend you may need to partially bend it and repeat your water bath before bending more. Rich
  21. barkeater
    The Carcass bomb vessel saw action in the Seven Years War as well as the American Revolution. Horatio Nelson served on her as a midshipman during the arctic exploration of 1773. The build will be double plank on bulkhead. Plans are from the National Maritime Museum. It will be as originally commissioned with mortars which were removed for the arctic exploration. Rich
  22.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: Anybody know how to attach this block to the gaff boom? (HM Sherbourne Vanguard)
  23.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: Bending small (approx 5x15 mm) plywood pieces?
  24. barkeater
    Congratulation. I redid part of a barn two years ago for my workshop and love it. Rich
  25.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: RRS Discovery 1901 by gak1965 - 1:72 - First Scratch Build
  26.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: Start planking with gun ports, pros and cons?
  27. barkeater
    Gregg, I noticed in your drawing that there isn't a yard arm cleat. I don't know where you are on your build, but these help your lines from slipping when under tension. They are a lot easier to do before the yard is hung. They are easy to fabricate, I first drill the cleat for the trenail. Then I glue it in place and drill into the yard itself then insert a glue coated trenail. They varied over time and country of origin. The ones I did would be from 1660 to 1815 according to James Lees "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War Rich
  28. barkeater
    Easier would be to do each block on their own line going round the yard twice then lashing the afferent and efferent portions tight to grip the yard. If you do the two-block idea one line with the third used to tie it all together it becomes more complicated. Especially tying in that third line while keeping the other two tight to the yard. For looks you want all blocks to have the same length, and this is a lot easier to do doing one at a time. Added to this, you want your port to match your starboard. Easier to get it exact if you match up port and starboard blocks one at a time. If you really want to put 2 on 1 use a clove hitch and do the third separate. Rich
  29.    barkeater reacted to a post in a topic: Mahonesa 1789 by a.sorolla - 1:32 - 34-gun frigate - monography by Adrián Sorolla, plans by F. Urtizberea
  30. barkeater
    Well, not a lot of Petersson fans out there. In 1/64th scale you are not going to be able to copy exactly how the rigging was done. Be aware that some of the knots at that scale cannot be seen or identified with the naked eye. Rich
  31. barkeater
    Try, Lennarth Petersson "Rigging period ship models" Rich
  32. barkeater
    I install all sections of the masts and platforms prior to adding the shrouds. Even if you tied in the shroud just distally, you still have to have the platforms in place as your lines need to go outside of the crosstrees and bolsters. Plus, you attach the shrouds in a specific order. The order could get messed up if hanging free for any length of time. You have to leave enough room to fit in the heel of the topmast or topgallant and this is tight. Easier to fit the lines one at a time rather than all at once and still keeping them looking neat and in correct order. Also, the topmast and topgallant have to a fit tightly together and adjustment with shrouds in place may make it more difficult. You want to get your masts all aligned midline and with the correct angle. I feel for me this is easier to set this up all at once and glue it rather than doing it in stages. Rich
  33. barkeater
    You could try fly tying thread. It comes in many colors and thicknesses. Rich

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