Mike 41

Hi Grant, this is a copy of the jig (Building Board) I am using.
Mike
Building Board.pdf

Portia Takakjian ignited the single-foothook HMY Fubbs fire (as rebuilt 1724) 33 years ago.
Romero wrote a great book a little later and Bob Hunt made 30 nice kits after that.
Some kit-maker needs to step up and make the WW guys a worthwhile offer.

Hi Grant, this is a copy of the jig (Building Board) I am using.
Mike
Building Board.pdf

Frames continued:
When Mike Shanks assembled the hull, he used a vertical stacking system. He described ever step with detailed photos and easy to understand instructions. The prototype went together quite well, all the frames are square and level.
 That being said, I am more comfortable with a horizontal build using a jig I have used for many years. I made a vertical stack as a dry run to check the bevels and general alignment. Everything looked good.
 I left the keel open ended. There is no space between the frames, and it is hot and humid in Myrtle Beach which adds to the expansion / contraction problem. It is easier to trim the keel than rework the frames.
I added spacers at the top of the frames, with centerlines to help with the frame alignment with a string line, level and square as each frame is added.
A few words about the jig I am using. I designed and built this one in 2012 and have used it for many models. If anyone is interested in the jig, I will post a PDF file here.
Thanks for looking in on the build log, any comments are welcome.
Mike
Progress photos:

Hi Grant, this is a copy of the jig (Building Board) I am using.
Mike
Building Board.pdf

Thank you guys for saying...
 
In preparation to install the second layer for the wales, the carved fashion piece was added first.  This is a resin casting prepared in the usual way with gel stain.  Like I did for the Winnie carvings.   It is easier and cleaner to add the carved fashion piece first rather than have to cut and shape the back side to fit over the wales.  I will add the fashion piece first and then just butt the wales up against the forward side next.
 
The resin carving will bend to conform to the hull shape.   No worries there.  I glued the lower end in first and waited for it to dry using CA.   This locked in pretty good so I could then push the top end of the fashion piece to bend it and secure it with CA as well.  I filled any gaps with filler but there shouldnt be many.  It should fit pretty tightly.
 
Note that the QBadge is still just temporarily tacked in position.  Its not permanent yet.
 

 
Then I added the second layer of the upper and lower wales.  I used 1/32"  strips of Yellow cedar.   You could use 3/64" thick strips as well but I am personally partial to thinner wales.   I did knock-off the top and bottom edges of the wales to just soften them up.   No hard edges for me.
 
I also painted the top and bottom edges black before gluing them on the model.  This keeps it nice and neat so I dont have to try and paint that edge on the model.  It makes a big difference and its finally starting to look like a ship model!!!
 


 
In addition to softening the upper and lower edges of each wale strip before gluing them on, I also tapered the forward end thinner.  It should diminish in thickness to a thin almost knife sharp edge going into the stem.  The taper started about 3/4” from the forward edge.   I sanded it to a thin pointy forward edge so it appears to enter the rabbet as it should based on contemporary practice.   It should appear to be the same thickness as the other planks entering the stem rabbet or nearly so.   
 
Then I proceeded to carefully paint the top layer for both wales strakes completely black.  I use Utrecht Brand Acrylic...Mars Black this time around.  Take your time with this and do it neatly because its a huge part of the overall look and feel of your model.  I also finally added the finish to the model using wipe on poly and some "Old Masters" fruitwood gel stain.  Up until this point there was no finish applied.   This gives the wood a nice natural brushed appearance with some deeper color that I like.   The cedar looks great after this application in my opinion.  Wipe on poly was added first...then some gel stain.   The gel stain was wiped off immediately after applying it so it wouldn't get too dark.   By "re-wetting" again with some wipe on poly, and buffing it off you can achieve a nice "brushed appearance".    It doesnt look too sterile or yellow in case you want a different look.  I wanted to try something different this time around.    Just compare the planking and frames in these photos with those in my previous post to see how different they appear.  It is subtle, but you can see the difference.  
 

 
Next up some fancy molding....and odds and ends.
 
 

Frames continued:
When Mike Shanks assembled the hull, he used a vertical stacking system. He described ever step with detailed photos and easy to understand instructions. The prototype went together quite well, all the frames are square and level.
 That being said, I am more comfortable with a horizontal build using a jig I have used for many years. I made a vertical stack as a dry run to check the bevels and general alignment. Everything looked good.
 I left the keel open ended. There is no space between the frames, and it is hot and humid in Myrtle Beach which adds to the expansion / contraction problem. It is easier to trim the keel than rework the frames.
I added spacers at the top of the frames, with centerlines to help with the frame alignment with a string line, level and square as each frame is added.
A few words about the jig I am using. I designed and built this one in 2012 and have used it for many models. If anyone is interested in the jig, I will post a PDF file here.
Thanks for looking in on the build log, any comments are welcome.
Mike
Progress photos:

Frames continued:
When Mike Shanks assembled the hull, he used a vertical stacking system. He described ever step with detailed photos and easy to understand instructions. The prototype went together quite well, all the frames are square and level.
 That being said, I am more comfortable with a horizontal build using a jig I have used for many years. I made a vertical stack as a dry run to check the bevels and general alignment. Everything looked good.
 I left the keel open ended. There is no space between the frames, and it is hot and humid in Myrtle Beach which adds to the expansion / contraction problem. It is easier to trim the keel than rework the frames.
I added spacers at the top of the frames, with centerlines to help with the frame alignment with a string line, level and square as each frame is added.
A few words about the jig I am using. I designed and built this one in 2012 and have used it for many models. If anyone is interested in the jig, I will post a PDF file here.
Thanks for looking in on the build log, any comments are welcome.
Mike
Progress photos:

Frames continued:
When Mike Shanks assembled the hull, he used a vertical stacking system. He described ever step with detailed photos and easy to understand instructions. The prototype went together quite well, all the frames are square and level.
 That being said, I am more comfortable with a horizontal build using a jig I have used for many years. I made a vertical stack as a dry run to check the bevels and general alignment. Everything looked good.
 I left the keel open ended. There is no space between the frames, and it is hot and humid in Myrtle Beach which adds to the expansion / contraction problem. It is easier to trim the keel than rework the frames.
I added spacers at the top of the frames, with centerlines to help with the frame alignment with a string line, level and square as each frame is added.
A few words about the jig I am using. I designed and built this one in 2012 and have used it for many models. If anyone is interested in the jig, I will post a PDF file here.
Thanks for looking in on the build log, any comments are welcome.
Mike
Progress photos:

Frames continued:
When Mike Shanks assembled the hull, he used a vertical stacking system. He described ever step with detailed photos and easy to understand instructions. The prototype went together quite well, all the frames are square and level.
 That being said, I am more comfortable with a horizontal build using a jig I have used for many years. I made a vertical stack as a dry run to check the bevels and general alignment. Everything looked good.
 I left the keel open ended. There is no space between the frames, and it is hot and humid in Myrtle Beach which adds to the expansion / contraction problem. It is easier to trim the keel than rework the frames.
I added spacers at the top of the frames, with centerlines to help with the frame alignment with a string line, level and square as each frame is added.
A few words about the jig I am using. I designed and built this one in 2012 and have used it for many models. If anyone is interested in the jig, I will post a PDF file here.
Thanks for looking in on the build log, any comments are welcome.
Mike
Progress photos:

Frames continued:
When Mike Shanks assembled the hull, he used a vertical stacking system. He described ever step with detailed photos and easy to understand instructions. The prototype went together quite well, all the frames are square and level.
 That being said, I am more comfortable with a horizontal build using a jig I have used for many years. I made a vertical stack as a dry run to check the bevels and general alignment. Everything looked good.
 I left the keel open ended. There is no space between the frames, and it is hot and humid in Myrtle Beach which adds to the expansion / contraction problem. It is easier to trim the keel than rework the frames.
I added spacers at the top of the frames, with centerlines to help with the frame alignment with a string line, level and square as each frame is added.
A few words about the jig I am using. I designed and built this one in 2012 and have used it for many models. If anyone is interested in the jig, I will post a PDF file here.
Thanks for looking in on the build log, any comments are welcome.
Mike
Progress photos:

Magnet clamps?  WOW!  Such a cool idea!

Frames:
It has been a while since I built a kit and the first time, I used laser cut frames. The large scale 1:24 made the parts easy to handle the eight pieces are joined with lap joints Making them very easy to assemble, with the exception of frame #25 the forward frame. It was cut using a CNC machine and uses scarph joints that fit perfectly together.
 
After removing the frames from the shipping box, I sorted the frames. Each part has the frame number etched on the aft side of the frame making the orientation easy to maintain. The bevel lines were also etched into the frame parts also. After sorting the parts I bundled them by frame number and divided them into five stacks. Divide & Conquer LOL.
 
Removing the char was not too bad using a spindle sander, but using the port on the machine for the vacuum left a lot of dust in the air so I clamped the hose about a quarter inch off the spindle that removed almost all the dust.
 
I assembled the frames by placing the frame drawing on a sheet metal plate and using magnets to hold the parts in place while the glue dried.
 
When the glue dried, I formed a vertical stack to check the bevels.
 
Progress photos:
 

Frames:
It has been a while since I built a kit and the first time, I used laser cut frames. The large scale 1:24 made the parts easy to handle the eight pieces are joined with lap joints Making them very easy to assemble, with the exception of frame #25 the forward frame. It was cut using a CNC machine and uses scarph joints that fit perfectly together.
 
After removing the frames from the shipping box, I sorted the frames. Each part has the frame number etched on the aft side of the frame making the orientation easy to maintain. The bevel lines were also etched into the frame parts also. After sorting the parts I bundled them by frame number and divided them into five stacks. Divide & Conquer LOL.
 
Removing the char was not too bad using a spindle sander, but using the port on the machine for the vacuum left a lot of dust in the air so I clamped the hose about a quarter inch off the spindle that removed almost all the dust.
 
I assembled the frames by placing the frame drawing on a sheet metal plate and using magnets to hold the parts in place while the glue dried.
 
When the glue dried, I formed a vertical stack to check the bevels.
 
Progress photos:
 

Section Limits:
This set of five drawings show the size of the model from different viewpoints. The model is Navy Board Style with stub masts and no rigging. 

Ship History:
His Majesty Yacht (HMY) Fubbs was laid down at Greenwich shipyards by Phineas Pett in 1682.
By Royal Navy standards yachts would be the size of a typical harbor dispatch vessel or lightly armed gunboat. HMY Fubbs sported a keel length of only 63’ with at a specified 148 tons fully loaded. With a 21’ breadth and only 9’6” depth in hold these small ships carried a crew of up to 30 and could be armed with 8 – 12 3 pounders.
Royal Yacht duties primarily consisted of tending to the affairs of the royal household. Charles II must have enjoyed yacht class vessels as he had 23 of them during his reign – more than any other English king. HMY Fubbs was the most lavish of his fleet of Royal Yachts. Visually, the hull of a Royal Yacht has the look of a 6th rate but is more akin to a ketch-rigged sloop.
 As such, she has a mizzen mast that passes through the small great cabin and no true orlop deck at all. As will be shown later, the stern ports are too close to the waterline and are not actually accessible from inside the ship. What look like stern quarter galleries are more like quarter badges. Most contemporary modelers and many artists tend to imagine HMY Fubbs as a larger ship than it really is due to the illusion created by the artistic style of the ship.
Charles II employed well known Baroque period artists Van de Veldes younger and senior. Their artwork had a direct influence on the highly decorated HMY Fubbs.
 HMY Fubbs was named after the mistress of Charles II, the Duchess of Portsmouth, Louise de Keroualle. “Fubbs” was the nickname for Charles II mistress with the meaning of a chubby contemptuous child.
HMY Fubbs remained in service for more than 80 years before being broken up in 1781. During that time, it went through 2 refits. One in 1701 and again in 1724. During the 1724 refit, most of her carvings were salvaged and replaced by painted frieze work.
The Model:
The concept of the stern section was developed by Mike Shanks and DocBlake. They acquired the drawings and reference material used for the HMY Fubbs 1725 rebuild kit from Bob Hunt at Lauck Street Shipyard. Mike Shanks created the drawings using this and other resources. Mike has a well-equipped shop with laser, CNC, and 3D printing capabilities which he used to build the prototype for the model. Jodie Grein developed the artwork and 3D drawings for the décor, Mike used the artwork along with all the parts for ten kits. This model is made from one of the kits. Weasel Works is a private club, and the kits are not available to the public.
The frames for the section are a style used by Portia Takakjian in the 1725 rebuild drawings she made, and Bob Hunt used in his kit. Although not historically correct they produced an accurate representation of the hull.
Kit Contains:
This is a few photos of the parts included in the kit.

Frames:
It has been a while since I built a kit and the first time, I used laser cut frames. The large scale 1:24 made the parts easy to handle the eight pieces are joined with lap joints Making them very easy to assemble, with the exception of frame #25 the forward frame. It was cut using a CNC machine and uses scarph joints that fit perfectly together.
 
After removing the frames from the shipping box, I sorted the frames. Each part has the frame number etched on the aft side of the frame making the orientation easy to maintain. The bevel lines were also etched into the frame parts also. After sorting the parts I bundled them by frame number and divided them into five stacks. Divide & Conquer LOL.
 
Removing the char was not too bad using a spindle sander, but using the port on the machine for the vacuum left a lot of dust in the air so I clamped the hose about a quarter inch off the spindle that removed almost all the dust.
 
I assembled the frames by placing the frame drawing on a sheet metal plate and using magnets to hold the parts in place while the glue dried.
 
When the glue dried, I formed a vertical stack to check the bevels.
 
Progress photos:
 

Frames:
It has been a while since I built a kit and the first time, I used laser cut frames. The large scale 1:24 made the parts easy to handle the eight pieces are joined with lap joints Making them very easy to assemble, with the exception of frame #25 the forward frame. It was cut using a CNC machine and uses scarph joints that fit perfectly together.
 
After removing the frames from the shipping box, I sorted the frames. Each part has the frame number etched on the aft side of the frame making the orientation easy to maintain. The bevel lines were also etched into the frame parts also. After sorting the parts I bundled them by frame number and divided them into five stacks. Divide & Conquer LOL.
 
Removing the char was not too bad using a spindle sander, but using the port on the machine for the vacuum left a lot of dust in the air so I clamped the hose about a quarter inch off the spindle that removed almost all the dust.
 
I assembled the frames by placing the frame drawing on a sheet metal plate and using magnets to hold the parts in place while the glue dried.
 
When the glue dried, I formed a vertical stack to check the bevels.
 
Progress photos:
 

Frames:
It has been a while since I built a kit and the first time, I used laser cut frames. The large scale 1:24 made the parts easy to handle the eight pieces are joined with lap joints Making them very easy to assemble, with the exception of frame #25 the forward frame. It was cut using a CNC machine and uses scarph joints that fit perfectly together.
 
After removing the frames from the shipping box, I sorted the frames. Each part has the frame number etched on the aft side of the frame making the orientation easy to maintain. The bevel lines were also etched into the frame parts also. After sorting the parts I bundled them by frame number and divided them into five stacks. Divide & Conquer LOL.
 
Removing the char was not too bad using a spindle sander, but using the port on the machine for the vacuum left a lot of dust in the air so I clamped the hose about a quarter inch off the spindle that removed almost all the dust.
 
I assembled the frames by placing the frame drawing on a sheet metal plate and using magnets to hold the parts in place while the glue dried.
 
When the glue dried, I formed a vertical stack to check the bevels.
 
Progress photos:
 

Frames:
It has been a while since I built a kit and the first time, I used laser cut frames. The large scale 1:24 made the parts easy to handle the eight pieces are joined with lap joints Making them very easy to assemble, with the exception of frame #25 the forward frame. It was cut using a CNC machine and uses scarph joints that fit perfectly together.
 
After removing the frames from the shipping box, I sorted the frames. Each part has the frame number etched on the aft side of the frame making the orientation easy to maintain. The bevel lines were also etched into the frame parts also. After sorting the parts I bundled them by frame number and divided them into five stacks. Divide & Conquer LOL.
 
Removing the char was not too bad using a spindle sander, but using the port on the machine for the vacuum left a lot of dust in the air so I clamped the hose about a quarter inch off the spindle that removed almost all the dust.
 
I assembled the frames by placing the frame drawing on a sheet metal plate and using magnets to hold the parts in place while the glue dried.
 
When the glue dried, I formed a vertical stack to check the bevels.
 
Progress photos:
 

Frames:
It has been a while since I built a kit and the first time, I used laser cut frames. The large scale 1:24 made the parts easy to handle the eight pieces are joined with lap joints Making them very easy to assemble, with the exception of frame #25 the forward frame. It was cut using a CNC machine and uses scarph joints that fit perfectly together.
 
After removing the frames from the shipping box, I sorted the frames. Each part has the frame number etched on the aft side of the frame making the orientation easy to maintain. The bevel lines were also etched into the frame parts also. After sorting the parts I bundled them by frame number and divided them into five stacks. Divide & Conquer LOL.
 
Removing the char was not too bad using a spindle sander, but using the port on the machine for the vacuum left a lot of dust in the air so I clamped the hose about a quarter inch off the spindle that removed almost all the dust.
 
I assembled the frames by placing the frame drawing on a sheet metal plate and using magnets to hold the parts in place while the glue dried.
 
When the glue dried, I formed a vertical stack to check the bevels.
 
Progress photos:
 

Frames:
It has been a while since I built a kit and the first time, I used laser cut frames. The large scale 1:24 made the parts easy to handle the eight pieces are joined with lap joints Making them very easy to assemble, with the exception of frame #25 the forward frame. It was cut using a CNC machine and uses scarph joints that fit perfectly together.
 
After removing the frames from the shipping box, I sorted the frames. Each part has the frame number etched on the aft side of the frame making the orientation easy to maintain. The bevel lines were also etched into the frame parts also. After sorting the parts I bundled them by frame number and divided them into five stacks. Divide & Conquer LOL.
 
Removing the char was not too bad using a spindle sander, but using the port on the machine for the vacuum left a lot of dust in the air so I clamped the hose about a quarter inch off the spindle that removed almost all the dust.
 
I assembled the frames by placing the frame drawing on a sheet metal plate and using magnets to hold the parts in place while the glue dried.
 
When the glue dried, I formed a vertical stack to check the bevels.
 
Progress photos:
 

Druxey: Thanks for the information. We are not planning on building another Fubbs model, but I find the ship very interesting.
 

Druxey: Thanks for the information. We are not planning on building another Fubbs model, but I find the ship very interesting.
 

Hi Druxey,
Our focus is on building a nice-looking model using modern building methods.  We are not naval historians, just a few old guys that enjoy building model ships as a hobby. We used Portia Takakjian’s as a resource for the structural components of our model.
Has the Stuart Yacht Research Group published their findings on the 1682 version of the ship? I would be interested in seeing the original drawings of the ship.