hexnut

Lucky me, a mini only had 8 valves, and these are far, far larger ...

And so, wi’ his sails now lashed using Chuck’s ropes, and the newly installed rigging works, it doest thus becometh necessary to re-apply some o’ the bird poopin’s.
“I shall also be a-touchin’-up me parrels with a little dry-brushin’,” he were to mention, “They just be too shiny fer me liking.”
 
Now, so very, very close to bein’ done wi’ his Launch, CaptainSteve didst haveth this to say …
“But a-forehand, there be the matter o’ a little surprise I didst promise ye”, he were to mention.
 
For Our Hero were to be lookin’ at his boat just the other day, and were to be somewhat displeased wi’ the fall o’ the sail cloth.
 
“Thusly, I didst settle upon-eth an idea,” he stated, somewhat ominously. “This ‘ere test upon a spare piece o’ raw sail-cloth may giveth you some idea o’ what I be thinkin’.”

 
"I were to liberally paint some Fray-Check onto the test-piece, and thereupon didst tie-eth it to me pedestal fan," he said.
Thence, Our Hero did turn the fan on, and head out the door to his local for a pint and a counter lunch. Upon his return, the test-piece were to be lookin' like this ...

 
For, verily, Our Hero hath decided that he doth prefer the look o’ billowing sails …

 
“And, so,” he were to close, “here be me boat as she doth stand currently.”

 

Well, as mentioned, Our Hero didst most verily experience-eth a “light-bulb moment” upon reading Mark’s message …
“Ne’er in a million years,” he were to mumble ‘neath his breath, “wouldst I a-thought o’ doublin’-up me ropes to the belaying pins.”
 
Wi’ new-fired vigour, and armed with the new information, Our Hero didst attack-eth his rigging a-new.
“I didst only have to be moving four o’ me ropes from their original positions …”
 
But, a-fore commencing, CaptainSteve didst make-eth up a batch of rope loops to hang from his belaying pins.
“I be not sitting in me boat and tying these up,” he explained. “So instead, I didst form a jig in order that they be a-lookin’ tidy an’ uniform in they appearance.”

 

 
In truth, these not be the actual rope loops that Our Hero were to finally use.
“These be the first batch,” he didst go on. “I be a-binning them, as they were to prove too small in stature.”
Verily, a loop length o’ 3cm didst prove-eth to be most pleasing.
 
After a-fixin’ his ropes, thence cutting them out, re-doing and re-fittin’ them, CaptainSteve didst take a few close-ups.
 
“These be for the Horde,” he spouted. “For I doth know-eth that you lot doest thrive upon pictures.”

Finally !!! A photo where ye can be seeing me oar-grooves !!
 

Oh yeah, I forgotteth to mention that I didst add-eth me anchor ...
 

I have not posted in a while, but I'm still working on it.
I finished planking the hull and completed sanding. I used shellac for surface preparation before painting. Talking about painting, I went recently to the Cape Ann museum in Essex to look at the Ben Latham model from Eric Ronberg. I decided to paint the deck grey, and will paint the waterway white, along with the semi circles on the deck.
The transom gave me a lot of headache, hopefully it will turn out ok.
As for the rudder, the third version is finally giving me satisfaction !
As a note, I am keeping a log to see how many actual hours I am spending on this model here.
 
I will post pictures soon
Cheers

Good progress during the holidays.

Work in progress; I completed belts "A" and "D" and belt "B" is in progress.
I am trying to go by the book, although I took some liberty, especially when when it comes to nibbing.
I think end result will be fine, although I am still worried about this transom piece...

Hi everyone, especially those that left comments and Likes.
 
All are greatly appreciated!
 
Progress has been a bit slow this week, however I've started to paint the mast and boom (more painting still to be done later).  I've also added two more handrails to the deck just forward of the mast, as well as the spinnaker pole on the foredeck.
 
A lot of time has also been spent doing the eyebolts in the deck and masts, in readiness for the rigging and sails, but these are too small for me to photograph.
 
Still more heaps more work to go, though.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 
 
 

Well - - - today I took Remco up to his challenge - - - the mine bin door hinges 
First I tried using a #11 Exacto blade but that proved to be too dangerous, could not get a good angle on it.  Hmmm, a "router bit" would be better    Soooooooooh - - - I took that revamped broken 0.5 mm drill bit in the Proxxon moto tool and carefully let the side flutes do the routing first horizontally and gradually rotating the tool vertical.  I didn't go all the way through the hull plating, which is 2 mm thick but the slot is deep enough that with some dark grey pain in it it looks acceptable.
 
Had to do some touchup with the green paint and presto - - - we have dummy hinges on all the dummy mine bun doors.  Doesn't look too bad actually and I'm happy with it.
 
In the course of "routing" these slots my optivisor got caught in one of the antenna wires and dislodged it from the antenna mast and also stretched it.  So I had to fix that before I could work on the dinghy cradle.  Yeah, dummy me, didn't think about it and had to pay the price but it was fixed in no time flat
 
What I decided to do for the dinghy cradle is to bend up two small U pieces of brass sheet stock that'll fit the keel.  I located the dinghy center line and cemented these two U channel pieces to the pressure hul inside the dinghy "hangar."  I also made a few eye bolts to tie the dinghy down with and cemented them into the pressure hull plates.  
This may not be how the original dinghy is secured below deck but it'll have to suffice.  Again, it's a victim of afterthoughts, but for display purposes the dinghy will be hanging in the loading boom.
 
This then may very well be the last of the details I'm going to add to the O19 - - - at least for the time being.  As I have mentioned before I'll continue to add some spares and crew members.
 
The next task is the display board and final pictures for the gallery, so don't go away yet 
 
Here are a few pics of today's efforts:
 

Here we have the dummy hinges on the mine bin doors Port side.  I elected to use dark grey instead of black, the grey is less conspicuous.  I tried the black but that was much too bold.
 

This is the starboard side, not too bad a blend.  Standing at arm's length from the model you can hardly find the real door.
 

Here is the dinghy cradle arrangement I finally came up with.  I also installed a few eye bolts to secure the dinghy in its cradle.
 

 
Cheers,

Hello everyone.  I have had a few very busy days that kept me out of the dockyard but today was rainy so I spend quite some time cutting, fitting and gluing the side trim moldings on, at least those for the sides.  The top finishing pieces may come tomorrow.  
 
I made a picture of the board so you get an idea how it'll look like.  It was a little cramped working there because Gwen's car was inside and it was raining.  Not a big problem, it worked out okay.
 
Before I can glue the top trim pieces on I have to do some sanding.  I have hammered small finishing brads into the side pieces to secure them to the board frame and to act as clamps for the glue.  I tapped them in with a nail-set.  I have used some fine wood putty to fill these dimples and all that need to be dressed. 
At least we are making progress.
 

The dark spots on the wood is from water where I wiped excess glue away.  I laid out the final top trim pieces to show where they go, the one on the left side is laid loosely on the board.  
 
Cheers,

OK........so I made these ladders...... the shorter one is for the mani deck,  abd the longer one will go from the fore deck to the roof.  
 

 
the way the plans show the ladder to the roof of the pilot house would look weird,  if I were to put two curved pieces of brass rod in the top of the uprights.......you know.....drill a hole and insert them.   I decided that I would bash them a little......sounds funny in relation to a scratch build........don't it.   well.....it can be done.......I added grab rails.   drilling all the holes......I set in some support bars for the rails.......and then the rails over the top of them.   in hindsight,  I probably should have made them entirely from brass rod and solder.......but this was more fun  {I'll have to play with the other idea}.
 

 

 

 
I had set them in place and drilled holes in the decks for the placement........in the bottoms of the ladders,  small pieces of rod was cemented in,  to serve as locators.   I put the main deck ladder in place to see how this one would look.......it's not supposed to have grab rails.
 

 
the other grab rail was cemented in place on the roof ladder.
 

 
once both sides looked somewhat even,  as far as the curve goes,  it was set in place to make adjustments.
 

 
when I was happy with it,  it got a coat or two with primer.
 

 

 
I looked at the roof ladder..........then I looked at the main deck ladder.......and then started to think how I would pull off doing the grab rails to the main deck ladder,  especially when it reaches the fore deck.  there are railings on both sides.
      I'll worry about that later      on went the support bars!
 

 
....and the rails themselves!
 

 
setting it in place..........yea....I might be on to something 
 

 
I also made up another bracket for that pulley.........it's a little crooked......I'll have to fix it,  but it's on there.   there are also guide blocks filling in those holes I drilled,  in that piece off of the gangway.
 

 

 
I would have gone further,  but I was rung out......  so I climbed into me bunk..........sad to think the work week {end} is here.    I'll finish this off and continue on Tuesday.  thanks for looking in 

March 30th, 2015
 
Hi all, here I am with another update from my shipyard!
During these 2 weeks I managed to complete 4 tasks on the deck structures:
- completion of the bulwarks internal planking
- completion of the waterways, with the addition of those at the transom
- planking of the transom
- preparation and fitting of the 6 sheave blocks in the bulwarks
 
The first internal plank at the bottom of the bulwark is a wider one and needs some adaptation to match the curvature of the waterways. The technique I used is described in the previous post, so no need to repeat.
The next picture shows two planks with their paper templates...
 

 
... this shows the first strake completed, with a bent plank for the second strake ...
 

 
... and this shows the last strake of the starboard bulwark fixed and glued...
 

 
The transom required a special attention due to its double-curvature: I had firstly to prepare the waterways for this area... the plans are not very clear about this, they show what appears to be a smooth transition from the deck planking to the counter planking more than a sloping waterway as for the bulwarks. So I prepared a sort of margin plank, only creating a small step to house the deck planks on one side and the counter planks on the other side.
The counter planks are curved and tapered and are interrupted in the middle for the rudder hole. The starboard transom margin-plank is done (just left to cut to final length) and the port one is being shaped...
 

 
Note that the transom gunports are shut: I had to add a thin layer of pear to get the correct thickness of the gunport lining. I re-opened the gunport just after planking the transom.
So, here are the bulwarks, counter and transom completed with their internal planking. The waterways are still temporarily positioned, not glued yet. The bulwark planking is 1mm thick boxwood, while transom-counter planking is just 0.7mm thick.
 



 
The bulwarks are not completed without their multiple-sheaves blocks. There are 6 of them: two with 6 horizontal sheaves each at poop, two with 5 horizontal sheaves each at the waist and two with 1 vertical sheave in the forecastle area.
The multiple blocks are as wide as the bulwarks, so tapering upward from 5 to about 4.5mm. They are 5.5mm high and about 15.5mm large to house two series of 3 sheaves. The slots for the sheaves are about 1mm high, as can be measured on the plan, so I had to build a block 5.5mm high with 3x1mm slots, and the remaining thickness is left for the 4 spacers... just 0.6mm each!
I think I reached the limit of my KS230 table saw, or very close, as I managed to slice 0.6mm layers from my 8mm thick boxwood with almost no imperfections... I’m a big fan of the Proxxon machines, even if this table-saw is a bit underpowered it always gives me great satisfaction!
Next I prepared the spacers, 1x1mm, and also a 6.5mm square batten for aligning the spacers while gluing. Here are the steps:
 



 
One slot in two of the above blocks is than blanked with a scrap piece of boxwood, so to create the 5 sheaves waist blocks. Preparation of the vertical single blocks was similarly accomplished, just with different measures.
All the blocks were left wider than the thickness of the bulwarks, to permit a following better and easier finishing.
 
The following task was to locate the blocks’ positions and to create their housings: easy-peasy for the forward-most 4 blocks, but it was a nightmare for the 2 rearmost blocks which are upward sloping and almost in contact with the transom.
 



 
I had to partially dismantle the bulwarks where they join the transom in order to create the housings, then rebuilt them after having positioned, fitted and glued the blocks. Here is the result:
 


 
After all the blocks were glued, I only had to sand them flush with the internal and external surfaces of the bulwark, and the job was completed with a good pass of abrasive paper for a smooth finish. The sheaves will be added later: they are 1mm thick (or slightly less) and 5mm in diameter... I'm thinking of using styrene plasticard ... will see how it works!
 
The fourth and fifth pictures above also show the completed oarports, from inside and outside: their pearwood lining is also partially visible. The gunports are similarly prepared, but will be cut only after applying the second planking or, depending on how I will schedule the works, before fitting the gunwale.
 
Finally, yesterday I’ve spent 3 hours cutting the deck planks with the table saw.
The deck has a central area of thicker planks, 3mm, where all the deck fittings are installed (companionway, pumps, capstan, bitts, binnacle, boat supports and so on) and two side areas where the planks are thinner at 2mm. These thicknesses are referred to the top of the deck beams, so must be diminished by the thickness of the plywood false deck (i.e. 0.8mm).
 
The central area has planks of different width, not too much but very evident. The central plank, along the ship center-line, is 5mm wide; then there are two planks each side of it, of 6mm width; finally another plank per side of 5.5mm width (total 7 strakes). These measures are taken at bulkhead 0, or M1/M2 in the model, where the planks have their maximum width. Then they are tapered toward bow and poop (with the exclusion of the central one) and slightly curved inboard.
 
JA has found a brilliant way to set a guide for planking the deck with all the above variations, that is gluing to the false-deck several paper strips directly taken from (a copy of) the deck plan: this gives a continuous reference for the planks width to be used, as well as  for tapering, greatly helping in preventing any error or inattention... thank you very much JA!!
So, here below is the deck prepared with the paper guides:
 

 
After this, I glued all the waterways pieces and smoothed their joints with some wood filler: these will be painted black later.
Finally I started laying the center-plank from stem to stern: lot of care is required to lay correctly this first strake, as it will be the guide for the remaining deck planks.
About the wood: it is Ramin for all the deck planks with the exclusion of the two “king” strakes, those by 5.5mm width at the boundaries of the central thicker band, which will be light pearwood.
 


 
In the last picture the first plank of the second strake is being glued. To build this plank I measured its width at the stations were the paper guidelines are set (bulkheads nn.VIII, VI, IV and II), and pasted these measurements to the plank; next I tapered the plank with the disk sander. This plank will not be bent, because the center strake is not tapered nor curved, but with the following strakes I will have to add a slight bend after the tapering... hope it works, or I will need to take advantage of the full original plank width (10mm) to cut-out the correct shape including bending and tapering (that's to say spiling it!): this is why I only cut the amount of planks sufficient for the central thicker area, just in case they do not fit!
Last details:
- the planks are cut to 200mm length, equivalent to a bit less than 10 real meters.
- I used a plank shift equivalent to two bulkheads
- the butt joint of the planks with the waterway is apparently flat in the plans, but only the central portion of deck planking is shown. So I’m planning to use joggled planks starting from when the planks need to be mitered about 45° to match the waterways... same method as explained in the fantastic tutorial by Ed Tosti, a method that I’ve also used in my Pinco:
 

 
To conclude, I have a consideration about deck planking: the deck fittings were fixed to the structures (beams) under the planking, so in theory they could be installed right now and then the planks cut to fit around them. I tried this approach with the Pinco, but then had lot of difficulties with the deck sanding, right because of the many obstacles in the way.
So I’m now trying to add the fittings ‘on top of’ the planking, by cutting the required slots where needed for greater strength (for example for the bitts and pin-rails).
 
That’s all for today... my best regards
Fam

March 13th, 2015
 
Hi all
another small update from my “Brick de 24” shipyard...
 
I’ve been working all these days (slow paced, I admit) on the inside of the bulwarks to prepare the gunports and oarports framing.
 
First step, after locating the position of the oarports, was to drill and cut them. My conclusion from the above discussion was that the slot for slipping through the oar blade must be positioned backward and upward, so this was the result from outside:
 

 
Note how the oarports are aligned to the plank strakes... this was the leit-motiv for all the alignment checks, greatly helping this difficult task also for the framing.
 
Next was the preparation of the oarports framing: I decided to work on the bench, because it’s easier, quicker and less time consuming. So cut several strips of pearwood, the same lighter quality I’ve already used for the transom gunports lining.
They are 2mm thick and wide enough to match the maximum thickness of the top-timbers at the bulwark base. I cut much more strips then I needed for the oarports, as they are the same also for the gunports framing. Then cut a couple of these strips into 5.5mm pieces, which is the width size of the rectangular ports (see above drawing). Material preparation took no more than 5 minutes, the table saw is great for this job!
I then sacrificed 3 of these pieces for preparing a very simple jig: they just serve as spacers for the two long battens, fixing their correct distance. Then marked on both battens a series of 4.5mm long segments parallell to each other, and simply glued the remaining pieces between the battens using the markings for their alignment. The result is visible below for two ports, but I managed to prepare 7 framings at a time in this way!
 

 
Each framing is well spaced from the next, because my intention was to use the long legs as a replacement of the top-timbers that I was going to remove. Here it is how:
 

 
Almost the same procedure was used for the gunport framing, but this time I worked directly on the model because the framing structure is not boxy-like, so needs a more attentive positioning to respect the required alignments.
Firstly I had to transfer to the planking inside the gunports markings, then (with the positions of the battens defined) I cleaned the internal surface of the planking from any residual of glue and prepared for a good matching with the battens. I cut them slightly longer than needed, to let for some fine adjustment, and then glued them in position...
JA had warned me that I was going to encounter some difficulty, because of the many top-timbers interfering with the framing positioning... well it was partly true but only slowed down my job because I had to proceed per steps:
- firstly I glued the battens in the free positions, and let them dry
- then, with the installed battens strengthening and supporting the bulwark, I cut the interfering top-timbers
- most of them were only narrowed, leaving as much material as possible to avoid weakening excessively the bulwark: it was a time consuming and delicate job, with small shavings at a time, then cleaning, then shaving, then cleaning...
- a couple of top-timbers had to be completely removed
- when all the vertical battens had been glued, I started with the horizontal gunport sills: measurement was important in this case, because they must be parallel to the deck and to the gunwale (top edge of bulwark) and exactly at 16.5mm from the gunwale.
- again, in most cases I had to remove portions of top-timbers where they are located exactly in the middle of a gunport.
The following are shots of the works in progress and of the final result (starboard side).
 


 
As you can see I had to proceed in parallel port and starboard, in order to wait for the glue to set.
After this job was completed, I had to reduce the thickness of all the framing pieces to match the correct thickness of the bulwark structure: 3.5mm at the base, 2.5mm at the top, another very long job to be done, because the correct alignment of all these battens is affecting the flow of internal planks!
 
Once again, JA method was much easier and quicker but I’m not sure if my good friend managed to get the variable bulwark thickness with his method... I will ask him
 
Finally, this is a shot of yesterday evening work: the first internal plank is glued!
 

 
This plank is the most difficult of the first (lower) strake, because its lower edge has to match the rising waterway while the upper edge has to remain parallel and 16.5mm down from the top of the bulwark... this also means that this strake is wider than the other, because the combined height of the waterway and 1st strake needs to match the total height of two strakes on the outside.
I had to use one 8mm thick boxwood piece (the maximun I own), and sliced it into 1.25mm thick planks... luckily I had just bought a new “Super-cut” blade for the table saw, because the older one was too worn to go through this hard wood!
Having the table-saw set, I also cut all the planks for the bulwark inside: 5mm wide (to be reduced), 1.25mm thick.
 
The shape of the above plank was defined by slipping a piece of thick paper between the waterway and the bulwark framing (another reason for not fixing the waterway! ), then the pencil was run along the waterway upper border (thus marking the lower plank edge shape) and along the top of bulwark external planks. The latter marking gave me the reference, when lowered by 16.5mm, for the upper edge of the plank.
This template was then transferred to one 8mm wide plank and cut. Then curved (as usually, by water and heat), measured, fine trimmed below and above, until I was totally satisfied. Note how the upper edged of the plank matches the sills of the first two gunports!
And finally... it was glued in position! 2 hours to get this result...
The forward waterway piece was left in position for a while, just to be sure that the plank was correctly positioned, and then removed to avoid it to remain glued by any excess of glue from the above plank, which I want absolutely to avoid!
 
The next job should be slightly easier, as the remaining planks of the 1st strake are constant width... just a matter of matching the distance between the top of waterway pieces and the gunport sills.
 
Stay tuned
 
Best regards
Fam

Planking is finished!
Still couple of things left, to trim the end of the planks at the bow, add the false stem, the keel and the rivets, do a massive amount of fairing and possibly paint.
 

 

 

 
The transom looks ok, I think the important thing is the pair of planks at each chine to line up. Again a lot of fairing is needed.
 

 

Hello fellow shipbuilders
 
Last days I worked on two or three different things. The frontmast, a hole for the postside trawl gallow and I have lenghtened the spraydeck.
 
First I marked the position of the opening. This opening was added to the ship ten years after she was build. It was necessary because of the extra trawl gallow (which was placed to guid the portside fishingline to the fishingbeam).
Then I cut it out and sanded/filed everything smooth. Some halfround to make it all look good and finished.
 

nice and clean
 

Marked

Super handy this disk cutter
 

cut, sand, file... and relax
 
 
 
 
 
some halfround to have a good finish

Yes! It fits.
 
 
 
Then I did some work on the fronmast. I gave hem his final position and I adjusted him to the spraydeck.
 

The frontmast in his position
 

 
 And then the extension of the spraydeck. This also was done ten years after build. It was made to protect the fishermen against the waves. Some years later the extension was removed again.
 

 

 
 

After some adjustments I gott it right.
 

 

It doesn't makes the ship more beautiful but I think it looks very sturdy this way. With all the additions you can really see that the ship is a true workingship.
 
 
 
 
And now a nice pic of the ship with both masts in place. Looks good hey?
 

 

I didn't want to "Blow" anyone's chance to guess by posting more than the date...
 
The dialog I posted is from a different film-- let's just say "The holy grail" of sea movies...

Snappy dialog for 1951... At least the conversation wasn't:
 
Now, in fairness to all of you...
I'm honor bound to ask this question.
Is there anyone here who does not wish
to be a member of Her Majesty's Navy?
Me, sir.
Is there anyone else
who is reluctant to serve?
Right.
If, by chance, some of you may feel
that the discipline on this ship...
is a trifle on the harsh side of strict...
let me remind you that it is our duty
to seek out and destroy...
Her Majesty's enemies...
 
Give them a taste of the lash
before they've done anything.
- Preventive punishment, that's the principle.
- Yes, sir.

My friends have built two ships from the "PacificCrossRoads" 
 
 
 
 

As you are such projections ??? 
 
 
 

A little bit of work done on the bulwarks. The model looks much better now all the raw parts have their finishing touch. Now some more work in detaills on the inside of the bulwarks and the some adjustments to the front of the ship and her structure. Pics will follow soon.

Kind Regards, Kees

Hi Jack, I studied, that aircraft along with the one from Old Warden in England. my model had wing warping as well.
 
I never finished it and gave it to the local air museum, along with all the drawings and research photographs, the drawings were from Old Rhinebeck.
 
here are a few shot which is all i have.
 

 

 

 
I was particularly pleased with the "canework" on the seat. the bentwood was formed from layers of birch veneer formed over a bent piece of stainless steel. After the layers had cured for about a week i filed and sanded the laminate to shape.
 

 
The canework was woven from some plastic bag material from a local shoe shop, it had just the right tan colour. I cut strips of the plastic about 1/16th wide then stretched it out until it reached it limit of elasticity, it was then reduced in width to about 1/32 and had a slight convex cross section. it took two tries to get the weaving right, and the toughest part was keeping the strands all the same way up with the curve of the "Cane" on the top side.
 
This would be a great way to make one of those cane seats in one of the Adirondack Guide boats
 

 
Michael
 
 

Bob, Carl, thanks for the kind words. And to all who visited and showed their appreciation.
 
Just a small update.
 
The trial shaping of some springs and the fitting of the valve spring keepers.
 
The first picture shows test fitting the valve into the .052" slot of the keeper, they are .110" on the major diameter and .081  on the minor diameter and .070" high.
 

 
The raw springs, these are just freehand off the mandrel which is an .067"  drill  which creates an internal diameter of .081"
 

 
Trimmed up a bit.
 

 
Trial fitting on the block.
 

 
Now I need to get some consistently formed springs made. The second from the left is the best one so that is the goal.
 
Michael
 
 

Thanks for all the kind comments. It was neat to go back down memory lane on the Bleriot.
 
My tool for the Dremel seemed to work OK The shaft is a really tight fit into the 23/32" hole, I will add a locking screw for security for future work. it did work well shaping the cutting faces on the valve seat cutter.
 

 
I have done the first seat, and then I needed to make a new split holder for the valves so that I could machine them to length, I decided to make the holder the exact length of the valve stem so that it would be easy to slip the valve in then trim off the excess, it worked fine for the first one, the second valve would not slide through the same as the first.
 
Now I understand the Go- No-go gauges and what such a small difference at a couple of tenths of a thou make.  I ended up fiddling with it for a couple of hours, and working on the valve polishing off the offending .0002" which was not easy, I probably could have made a new valve in the same time, but did not want to reset the tooling.
 
the valve seat cutter worked well but slower that I thought it would. cutting the bevel from .093" to .120" diameters
 

 
The new springs are better.
 

 
I will take some pics today of the cutter and of the slit holder to the valves
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Thanks Bob! You've got the metalworking thing down to a science.
 
Well, I got a very little bit more done. I went ahead and started thinking about how to make a display case. I decided to go with a maple base. It's plain old vanilla, slab sawn, but it will look nice underneath the boat. I built a mitered framework around it out of mahogany. I wrapped the maple base in cellophane so the miter joints wouldn't stick to it when they were glued up. I slotted the mahogany pieces to take the glass panes. It will basically be a mahogany and glass box, with glass on five sides, that will slip down over the maple base. I'll hold the box and base together with removable pins. It's all bare wood right now.
 
I also took a semi-circular cut out of the bottoms of the feet the boat sits on. They were looking too bulky. Next comes a water scuttle, a gaff and boom, and the running rigging.
 
Thanks for looking.

News flash: Shenandoah is armed...with four popguns. I think they look a little silly. Maybe they used them for duck hunting.
 
Working with metal is much harder than working with wood, and I'm glad they're done. Thanks for reading!
 
Steve
 
 

These days I focused on ropes of every type...
First of all, I finished the ratlines of the main mast! :cheers:
 
Since I was forced to evaluate the rigging of the mizzen mast, I prepared the two sails of the mizzen mast.
As said before, I cannot proceed further with the main mast until I attach the mizzen mast stays on the main mast base.
That can be seen in one of the photos, where the multiple blocks are showed (the decorative bundles of ropes are not yet placed).
the mizzen mast it is not yet glued.
 
The short term objective will be to complete the two bilge pumps.
I prepared the pieces, but are not yet ready.
 
after that, I will return to the main mast rigging, with all my clouds of doubts, that surround it like a mist...