Nirvana

I am using Chuck's cleats in the building of the Bluenose, see the latest picture in my build log where I had to alter them according to the plans.
Take a look at this picture of the fife rail, and where you have the base legs.

I am using Chuck's cleats in the building of the Bluenose, see the latest picture in my build log where I had to alter them according to the plans.
Take a look at this picture of the fife rail, and where you have the base legs.

John, you can't go wrong with kits from BlueJacket Inc or a kit from Chuck Passaro.  Both of them are sponsors.
Use the search feature in the build logs for the name of ship you like to build.
Take it from there. Good luck in your search. 

Time to glue down the fife rail, the boom support is not completely finished.
Somehow I like the contrast in-between the rail/boom support/belaying pins. This instead of having it all white.

So I got the fife rail together, for awhile I didn't know whether to go with painted or varnished version, I went for the a latter.

Somehow it got a more weathered appearance.

At this stage, the "rail" is not glued into place, cleats are to be added to the base legs. This has to happen before the final glue down.

I am running an older Proxxon. It's not being used much so I can't justify a Byrnes........ yet!
However the tips link is useful for me as well.

Closing out the weekend with the gun ports and sweep ports framed. I also started the initial sanding on them. I took Chuck's advice and sanded a bit in between each color frame. This gradual process definitely works well. Also, for the sweep ports, I used some leftover 1/8 x 3/8 basswood. Cutting at 3/16 gave me the perfect width. With that, I just had to sand or cut for length. 

That planking looks great! What kind of tool did you come up with?

I am running an older Proxxon. It's not being used much so I can't justify a Byrnes........ yet!
However the tips link is useful for me as well.

Popeye, thank you for the kind words. 

I am running an older Proxxon. It's not being used much so I can't justify a Byrnes........ yet!
However the tips link is useful for me as well.

That planking looks great! What kind of tool did you come up with?

Well, I got the hatch made.
In Bob Hunts practicum it's mention that the top is to be umber colored, but since I had mahogany laying around. 
I used that material instead, turned out nice in my opinion. 

Maybe just to hard on myself.....the height is perfect. 

Thinking about making a jig to get the assembly aligned properly. 

Vallejo has a white foundation paint, which I used on the waist and stanchions at the port quarter area.
Good or bad I don't know but I have a feeling this base might good enough for a single layer regular white.

It's bright but probably a good contrast as well.

28 days later!

Decking complete! Minor touch up needed before proceeding. 
Nibbing boxwood is hard.😎

The anchor pads doesn't have any material description, and when looking at the has been provided in the box I found that the brass piece was just right size in thickness and width. After having this painted black or blackened I think it will be just perfect.
I will make indication of nails to hold the pads down. Like they can replaced after wear.


I have no idea if Bluenose in real world had a wood or metal pad. My mind says metal, but I could be wrong.
But considering the wear at this area, metal make sense to me. If anyone else know more, please let me know. 
 

The fife-rail is a challenge.
Here I made sure all parts had been treated with poly-wipe-on, 
The lower square leg are slightly larger than the plans, but with the "plank" on top and additional parts I think it will turn out fine.
Here 3/4 of the assembly is dry mounted for check up.
Since the parts are all going to be white I am not to worried for slight marginal error.

 

My Syren Yellow Cedar Deck
 

Dear all
 
I will need many shackles for my 1:10 boat but at £1.5 each, they are incredibly expensive. I would very much like to make them myself.
 
Michael Mott has posted a very elegant way of making shackles in this scale. Today I experimented in my garage and tried to standardised a much simpler version, using tools that I (and probably most modellers) own. So here it goes.
 
Very very important: There will be clouds of flying debris and brass dust so do not attempt unless you have goggles that completely seal the eyes (they cost £1). A few more tools will be needed.
 

 
Start with 2 mm brass rod, cut to lengths a bit over 2 cm. 
 

 
Mark the edges that will later be hammered flat with permanent marker.
 

 
Then, secure the rods to a drill, just at the marked edge. Do not worry, it will be adequately rigid and secure. Set both the drill and the dremel spinning and with a high grit sanding drum, thin the middle of the rod. Then use 240 grit sanding paper to smooth the marks left on the rod.
 

 
It should now look something like this.
 

 
Now anneal the metal. This needs to be done regularly otherwise the rod will break.
 

 
On a flat surface, hammer the edges.
 

 
Anneal and hammer again. Use a sanding disk or files to shape and round the flat edges of the rods.
 

 
Then bend around an appropriate steel rod/pin secured in a vice, carefully so that this is done symmetrically. (One rod broke in the middle). Half bend initially, anneal and then bend all the way, otherwise the rod will break. Do not do any minor adjustments without annealing again, the rods will break very easily, bending puts huge stress on the metal. It should now look like this:
 

 

 
Drill the flat parts, no need to align the holes.
 

 
Then take a length of 0.8 mm brass wire, pass through the holes, then with pliers crush the ends flat and trim the excess. Polish with a steel wire brush.  Shackles are ready. 
 

 

 
They can actually be made reasonably fast, best to do many at a time. They are not very uniform but I think with practice they should improve.
 
Vaddoc
 
 
 
 

I have the Bluenose practicum,  but barely used it. Worked majorly from the plans.

The anchor pads doesn't have any material description, and when looking at the has been provided in the box I found that the brass piece was just right size in thickness and width. After having this painted black or blackened I think it will be just perfect.
I will make indication of nails to hold the pads down. Like they can replaced after wear.


I have no idea if Bluenose in real world had a wood or metal pad. My mind says metal, but I could be wrong.
But considering the wear at this area, metal make sense to me. If anyone else know more, please let me know. 
 

The fife-rail is a challenge.
Here I made sure all parts had been treated with poly-wipe-on, 
The lower square leg are slightly larger than the plans, but with the "plank" on top and additional parts I think it will turn out fine.
Here 3/4 of the assembly is dry mounted for check up.
Since the parts are all going to be white I am not to worried for slight marginal error.

 

I have the Bluenose practicum,  but barely used it. Worked majorly from the plans.