Ulises Victoria

Just admiring your rigging.Are you using Corel`s rigging plans or another source?My Sergal rig plans are totally wrong but I do have the Corel kit.I was thinking of using Corel`s rig plans.

Hello. I am using Corel's rigging plans, and was trying to complement with the book The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 by R.C. Anderson. However, trying to use both sources proved to be really confusing, so at the moment I am following Corel's plans.

Thank you, Guy.

Hello Kim. As Ken said.

The other type of standing rigging are the "Stays" These are rather heavy lines that go parallel to the sip's length and go from mast to mast, usually from the upper part of a mast to a lower portion of the mast in front. These usually had a "mouse built in them that went through an eye to prevent the line from "choking" against the mast. (See photos) In general: lines that move or run are running rigging, and lines that only hold, are standing. Hope this helps.

Ulises, post #28 here, showed an excellent way to make those tiny eye bolts. Thank you again.

 

 

More than welcome, Jay.I'm glad I helped a bit. Incidentally my post is #6. 28 is the date.

The curling iron is my favorite method also, as noted above by Mark. This plank was bent this way dry. It was a soft wood mind you, so I guess soaking may be helpful on harder woods.

The last issue of the Nautical Research Guild journal, features an extensive article by Chris Watton about his building of this amazing model.

Haven't had the time to read it yet, but that is a must read!

It may be too late, but take a look at this thread.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4490-a-video-about-making-metal-hooks-and/

"Give a lazy man some task to do, and he will find the easiest way to do it" 

Yes cnemo. Please!!!. We would love to have ANY information regarding the 1/64 Victory.

Excellent video! Thanks. 

If I may, I will show here another method to make rings or eye bolts. It's just a drill handle to which you attach different diameters (for different diameter of rings) of L shaped hard wires. Hold the ring wire with flat pliers and turn the handle to make the ring.I think the photo is self explanatory.

Hello all.

I am building my Vasa with all sails furled. I am placing the upper yards in their lower position. However, the photo in the box of my kit shows the model without sails and with the yards in the top position.

Was there a rule that said that yards with furled or no sails had to be in the lower position, or was this optional?

Thanks for your time.

Hello and congrats on your build.I can see you are doing some improvements to the kit. A friend of mine gave me this kit to build it for him many years ago, but he asked to be built and rigged first, and then just spray the whole thing with gold spray paint. He is a doctor and still has that model in his office. I can say it doesn't look bad at all.

Keep us posted.I will love to see this one finished.

Kim: Since I live in Mexico, its hard for me to tell you brands of threads and what to use.My suggestion is to go to a Michael's or a store where they sell knitting or sewing stuff. I have seen some threads that look very nice to use as rigging materials. Search for those that don't look plain. Buy several diameters in your choice of dark gray or dark brown for standing rigging and beige or manila for the running rigging. I wish I could be of more help.

Best regards.

I used this stuff extensively while gluing the metal figures to the wooden parts in my Vasa. This thing performs brilliantly for that job.

I am not sure how it's called in other countries. Here it's called "Repair Extreme" and is a thick paste-like substance that adheres dissimilar materials, and the excess, if you let it dry a small amount of time, can be withdraw with tweezers like rubber. I just love this stuff.

Thanks!!! I once bought one of these things. I really don't remember what for, since I am no fisherman. I just dug it out from the bottom of a box. It will have some use now!!!  

Kim: That book is an excellent source of information at your stage. It's old, but what's in it is perfectly valid. I still have it.

Once you read it, you may want to tackle something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002HZ37G/ref=s9_simh_co_p21_d1_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=left-3&pf_rd_r=0HRDEJCAWZK24JRERQ2K&pf_rd_t=3201&pf_rd_p=1280661842&pf_rd_i=typ01

This Victory will be a step up challenge for you

Wish you the best.

I built this kit 3 times. I used the deadeyes in the kit, but I used plastic cement to glue them. In my opinion, this joint is stronger this way than with CA, since plastic cement dissolves and welds both parts together, as opposed to CA that is just a mechanical bond, and more likely to fail with time.

One thing I always replaced were the shrouds and ratlines. I got aftermarket deadeyes and put rope shrouds and fabric sails.

Great kit to build.

Kim:

Yes the Pinta would be a nice choice also. In fact you can buy all 3 Columbus' ships in a single kit. My Santa María came from there.

This set is not very easy to get.

http://www.amazon.com/Heller-Hel52910G-Christopher-Colombus-Plastic/dp/B00B3S2RVI/ref=sr_1_96?ie=UTF8&qid=1383863535&sr=8-96&keywords=heller+ship+model+kits

It may be a bit expensive but you have all the 3 ships in a single package and I bet you will build a better Santa Maria the second time.

Another suggestion: Just go to amazon.com and search for "Heller ship" or "Heller model". You will find many more choices.

Regarding your paint job in the sails. It's OK... it just looks like you over did it. Remember that in this case, less is better. STOP before, not after.

Edit: Ooops I just saw the price of shipping the Heller 3 ship set in Amazon is $30.00 dlls. That makes the total cost around 100 bucks. That's way too high.

Best of luck.

Kim: Either of these two kits will be a more challenging but not impossible kit for you. (I think)

The Bounty may be easier on the paint, but the Golden Hind will be much more attractive to look at.

I would love to assure you that those ornaments are decals, but unfortunately, I don't know.

Heller is finer, in my opinion.

Hope this helps

http://www.amazon.com/Revell-RVLS5404-H-M-S-Bounty/dp/B0000AC9BD/ref=pd_sim_sbs_t_2

http://www.amazon.com/Heller-Golden-Hind-Model-Building/dp/B0002HZZ0Q/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1383848986&sr=8-27&keywords=plastic+sailing+ships

Wow Kim... you already finish it!!! Congratulations. Yes instructions sometimes leave a lot to be desired. In most ships that rear sail is called a "lateen" and it usually goes parallel to the length of the ship. See photos. Although here the sail is furled, you get the idea.

Let us know as soon as you can what your next build will be!!!

Thank you Pete for taking the time to extensively explain your points.

Thank you Michael. Soon you will be able to log into my Pen Web Site and purchase pens to your heart's content.

Bob:

CA may be an option, but I prefer diluted white glue or flat clear lacquer because these have enough strength to do the job and will not leave a shiny spot or a white residue, nor run through my lines making them stiff, brittle and prone to break.

Just my personal preference. 

Had to look up what a cow hitch knot was, and you are absolutely right!

Ebony is my favorite wood for making pens.

I will start tying ratlines in my Vasa pretty soon. I'm starting a mental preparation to get ready for hours upon hours of clove hitch knots tying. (Yes, this is the right knot to use here)

Patience, my friend.