Ulises Victoria

Hey Kimberley: About Pirate ships. I thought this may be of interest to you!

http://www.mamolimodel.com/eng/mv82.htm

A nice good start in wooden building and with your preferred subject!

Good luck!

Looks like a nice ship to build. I'm not familiar with Euromodels kits and what you say about the "reference notes" in the web site is something I wish was more common in other kit brands.

Question: Don't you feel there are too many metallic parts? That's the impression I got from your pictures.

Best of lucks with your build!!!

Cheers!

Hello.

Any updates on this build? I hope you didn't quit! You sure chose a tremendous kit as your first!!!

Cheers.

Depending on what I'm doing, I use a 2.50 or 3.50 magnification reading lenses. They work great for me and the cost is barely an issue.

If you want the very best, I would wait for the Amati Victory in 1/64 by our own Chris Watton.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/985-amati-and-chris-watton/

Impressive Matti. Your build is an inspiration. You give me new goals to reach in my future builds. It's work like this that give me new challenges for the future. Thank you!

Depending on how much they are warped, you can sometimes straighten them with the same rigging lines.

Just thinking out loud here but perhaps there has been an increase in humidity and the rigging has got damp? If so, maybe very gentle drying with a hair dryer might help.

I thought waxing the lines would prevent this... or no? 

Way to go!!! Beautiful ship, and awesome build. This kit has been in my wish list for years.

You did a splendid job, Vince. My Congratulations!!!

Don't know where to get a hypo needle 

I don't know in your location, but here we get those needles in syringes at the drugstores with no hassle.

I'm definitely trying this tip in my next build

Thanks for the idea.  Is there any potential negative long term effect from a chemical incompatibility with the rosin and various rigging line materials such as cottton, linen, &tc? 

 

Thanks

 

Allan

Sorry. That I wouldn't know.

Would expect rosin to make every partial of dust into a cling-on.

jud

Thanks for your observation...

Dust will always be a problem in a non covered model... rosin or no rosin. If your model is covered I see no problem.

Depending on how subtle you want to be, you can also take a hypodermic needle of appropriate gauge, grind the angle off it, and "stamp" a circle on the end of the planks.  The indent on the wood will be visible, but the effect is a lot more subtle than the drill and fill method.

 

Colin

Aaaahhh! How nice tip!!! It sounds like better and quicker!!!! Thank you Colin.

I don't know what issues you guys are talking about. I use Google Chrome and never ever had an issue.

Amazon is always my first choice for online purchases.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_5?url=search-alias%3Dmi&field-keywords=rosin&sprefix=rosin%2Caps%2C256

Are you tired of retensioning those clove hitches in the middle of your shrouds? Or coming next morning to see the last knot you tied is now loose, and since you trimmed it off, you can't do it again?

Well... do yourself a favor and go to your neighborhood music store. Yes music!. Get yourself a cake of Rosin. The stuff violinists use to rub their bows with. Are you getting it? That stuff makes the bow "grab" the string and therefore, produce sound. That effect works on your rope the same way, and makes your knots unslippable. (sp?) Guaranteed! Just rub a piece of your thread or rope on it 2 or 3 times and voilá. 

If there is choices of hardness, go for the softer one. If you can get the stuff that is actually made from the tree sap, you will have the bonus of the smell!

Hope this helps.

Have you tried Downy or a similar fabric softener? I remember using that stuff to make realistic looking hanging ropes in one of my builds.

Thanks Joe,

 

I hope someone posts when the Victory is ready.

 

Richard

Fear not! There is a huge bunch of folks here waiting for that notice!!!

I drill holes and then stick round toothpicks which points I have previously dipped in wood glue, so I get 2 treenails per toothpick. A big waste but since they are so cheap, doesn't really matter. I have used the filling with filler and sanding method in my hull's nailing with fair success. (See my Vasa log, if you like).

What's good in both methods, is that the size of the "nail" (which isn't actually a nail in the real ship, but a plug) is determined by the size of the drill you use.

Yellowish wood glue works great for me.

Thanks Demonborger!

 

The only thing that I don't like about model ship building is that I end up awake late a lot of nights trying to figure out in what order do I add things to the model. If I add item A to the model now, will I be able to get at item B later. (i.e. Building the false gun carriages early on, while not placing the guns until much later). Drives me nuts sometimes and I find myself overthinking things

 

Frank

Hmmm...I thought this was normal!!!

Very true, Mark.

In fact, this approach works for every step in your build. If you are planking the decks, don't think about how you are going to plank the hull; worry about it when you get there. And concentrate not in "I'm planking the deck" but in " I have to place this little piece of wood in the most perfect way to the best of my abilities".

I like it, and I will try the gold leaf method in my future builds. The Royal Louis has some golden decorations. Not as many as Vasa, though.

Thank you very much for explaining how you do it.

Best regards.

Hello and welcome.

The Ranger looks like a nice kit to start with. It says Intermediate level, but that always is a very subjective term. I have seen beginners kits that say: "Next step: plank the hull"

I see you mention is your first build, but is not clear if you have had some experience with other types of scale modeling, (like plastic) or some woodworking experience or doing some other crafts. Any of these activities may provide you with some experience to start an "intermediate" level kit.

On the Ranger: Rigging does not seem too complicated and it's double planked, which makes it "a little" easier. If it looks good to you and its within your budget, go for it.

Start a build log here, and you will get all the help you may ask for to complement for poor instructions.

Best wishes.

That is a very long, explanatory and informative post by Fred Hocker.