Ulises Victoria
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Everything posted by Ulises Victoria
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Thank you Sjors and Kimberley. Kim: I started like you, only younger. I was a kid when I started building ships, but there weren't things like this forum to learn things, so it was harder. I'm 65 now. Hang in there and soon you will be a master. -
Kimberley: The Santa Maria is one of those kind of ships where the "weathering" technique really shines. Those old used and abused little ships have to be built to look really old, dirty and poorly maintained. But that's your choice, of course. I will try to post some photos of my Heller's Santa Maria tomorrow, to give you an idea...
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Now, that is a neat idea, Jay!!!
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Hello there... I can not show you how to tie small knots, since to be honest, I don't see the difference of tying them with your hands or tweezers. A knot is a knot, and the only difference is the thickness of the thread you are using. If anything, make sure you use pointed tweezers able to hold those tiny pieces of thread and hold them under stress, aka when you are pulling them. Tweezers to pluck eyebrows work very nice. Look for the fine stuff, not the el cheapo. Also, make sure you have enough thread in your hands so you are able to handle the knot-tying. Thread is the most wasted resource in our hobby: You need a ridiculously large piece of thread to tie a very tiny knot, and then you snip off 99.99% of the thread. Here's a trick to prevent your knots from untying. Go to a music store and buy a cake of rosin. That's the stuff violinists use to rub their bows with. Rub your line several times over that cake on the area where you estimate the knot will be. Make sure the knot is where you want it... once done and tight, you will never be able to undo it. As a bonus, the smell of pine rosin is delightful. A perhaps simpler trick, is to put a tiny drop of diluted white glue, or FLAT lacquer on your knot. I'd suggest you never use CA for securing your knots. Hope this helps.
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Yes Kimberley. So if the chart said gold, you used gold that's alright. But hull bottoms were covered with copper plates, which later took a green patina. I'm posting some photos of a heavy weathering I did on a Revell's 1/96 Constitution hull. Someone said that although the weathering was nicely done, Constitution may had never looked like that, as maintenance on her was performed almost on a daily basis. (I have to say I never finished this "version" of Connie)
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Kimberley it looks very nice. If anything I would like to point out that the hull was covered with copper plates, not brass, which it's what it looks like with the color you used. No big deal, but maybe you want to take note for future buildings. Keep up with it. It's coming along very nice. I like your paint job on the decks.
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Kimberley: The Pinta by Heller may be an excellent choice. In fact, they used to have a kit that included the three Columbus' ships in 1/75. I have build them twice. If you look for them you may still find them as separate kits. I would go for the Santa Maria, though: a little bigger and better in my opinion. The other Pirate ship looks more like a toy, again, in my opinion.
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Popeye. In regards to the scale, if the model is 1/130 it means 130 feet of the real thing = 1 foot in the model, (not 1 inch); or 130 cms = 1 cm or 130 whatever = 1 whatever.
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Say no more!!!
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Kimberley. It's been a long time since I built plastic, but I remember the brand Heller had some of the best ship models you can get. I would not suggest you go after their Victory or Soleil Royale in 1/100 as they are really challenging projects, but I remember once I built a Royal Louis in 1/200 that was a real pleasure. If you can get your hands in some Imai/Ertl models, they are also great to build. I built the Golden Hinde in this brand and I had a blast with it. A few photos here. I modified the kit to add shrouds and fabric sails, but ultimately, if you build it "out of the box" its not that hard.
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Great build Michael. You are doing a double good job here. First the upgrading of the kit, and then with its execution. Flawless! I have always admired a clean job, like yours.
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I have that same plank bender, but found later that this item works better and it's cheaper. This curve was made without soaking the wood. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050QLCSI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It works better for me.
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I am using dark brown in my Vasa, but I think I will use gray in my next Royal Louis build. I like it better.
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How can I prevent "Sagging" rigging?
Ulises Victoria replied to wilnatp's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hello Nathan. I suggest you run your thread or rope lines over a cake of wax or even the side of a candle, and then over a lighter flame to melt the wax and let it sink in the thread. This will make your lines impervious to humidity, which is a very common cause for sagging lines. I use FLAT clear lacquer, used in plastic modeling, to fix my knots. This will not leave a shiny spot on your knot or make it brittle, and is strong enough to do the job. Diluted white glue also works well. Hope this helps. -
Kimberley. Your Connie looks very nice. You will see that you learn and improve with every new ship you attempt. I would suggest you put more attention in learning the art of painting your models. Your goal is to leave no single part unpainted. Then you will learn how to apply "weathering" and a whole universe will open for you. Your pirate ship is an excellent choice. Dont Rush! (See my signature )
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Mouse redux. I just was not happy with the mouse I posted in previous photos. Here is the new mouse. I also corrected the orientation, as this is how it looks in the real Vasa photos.
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Then it looks like it's actually a entry level kit. Keep on it Kimberley, and I think we would like to see some photos. As avsjerome here said, watch out with CA. In case of your fingers gluing together, DO NOT ttry to pry them apart, or it may hurt you. Use acetone, and slowly work the glue off. Acetone dissolves CA completely.
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Hello Kimberley. Hmmmm that's strange. OK. How long the ship is? If it's around 3 feet long, then it's the 1/96 scale. CA glue is CyanoAcrylate glue, also known as super glue, crazy glue or some other names. I very seldom use it in my ship building, plastic or wood, although it has its uses. My guess, and hope, is that you are using specific glue for styrene plastic. This glue works by melting and welding the two pieces together. Because of this it has to be used very sparingly or it may ruin your model. Put a drop in a scrap piece of plastic and see if it "melts" or dissolves the plastic. Then you know you're using the right glue. To fix your rigging knots, I would suggest you use either diluted white glue or FLAT clear lacquer. NEVER use CA to fix your knots. It will run through your rigging make it brittle and prone to break, besides, it will make your lines stiff and with some unwanted curves or angles. Glue or lacquer will fix the knot without leaving a shiny spot. Hope this helps.
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Can't answer your questions Floyd, but I will follow this thread with interest, as getting a Jim's saw to make my own planks is what's next in my ship building learning experience.
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Thank you marktiedens. Best investment you can make to improve your kit!
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Thanks Andy and Michael. I just asked that question in the Vasa site. I asked there also when Vasa Book II was coming out and Fred said something like he was getting tired of ansering that question. I totally understand him.
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Wow! Thanks all for your comments! Ferit. The blocks were purchased at JBModel in Europe, which unfortunately looks like it's out of businnes, and stained dark. See our own Chuck's blocks here: http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/ The mouse is a knot, yes. According to Fred Hocker, main authority in Vasa research, there were no servings at all in Vasa's shrouds and stays. I am still at a loss about how the mouse in Vasa was made, so this is not definitive yet.
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Hello all. A small update just to show I have not been procrastinating I finished placing all deadeyes in the shrouds, and I'm working on the stays at the moment. When they are done I will rig the lanyards and lastly the dreaded ratlines. Next: Running rigging. Again: Sorry for bad photos.
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