Ulises Victoria
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Everything posted by Ulises Victoria
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Well Sjors, thinking about it, placing shrouds is one operation; tying deadeyes is another different operation. In my case, I think switching between operations is less efficient. But that's just me! -
Yes Sjors. No deadeyes yet. Still undecided about order of things here: First ALL shrouds then deadeyes?, or place deadeyes after each mast or part of mast is completed?. My guess is that that is just a mater of choice, unless someone else has a different opinion?
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I am sorry for not answering those Happy Birthday wishes from all of you. Even though I am supposed to be following this thread, I get no email notices that posts have been made. To all of you a big THANK YOU!!! I am posting just a few photos of a very small advance in my build. I had all the shrouds of the fore mast placed with their deadeyes. Somehow I did not like how they were coming out, and with great pain, took a pair of scissors and cut them off to start all over again. So here is just a few photos of how the shrouds are placed around the foremast. Now I am happy . Again, sorry for my lack of photographing skills.
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Best glue for rigging: CA & GS-Hypo
Ulises Victoria replied to Beef Wellington's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
CA IMO is the worst you can use in your rigging, points in case: 1- it will run through the line making it stiff. 2- Will leave a glossy/shiny spot 3- will make your line prone to break. I use a drop of diluted white glue or Testors Flat Clear Acryl. Either makes a fine job of keeping my knots tied without all the problems of CA. Just my 2 cents. -
Decided to build the USS Constitution 1/96 Scale Model
Ulises Victoria replied to kmgreene's topic in Plastic model kits
Great choice. I have built this kit 3 times. One fully sailed, with the plastic sails included in the kit, one without sails and one with furled (fabric) sails. In every case I modified the kit by putting real shrouds and aftermarket purchased deadeyes. Some people think that building a wooden ship is necessarily harder, but by my experience, the rigging in a plastic ship, being the same as in a wooden ship, is a bit harder to accomplish in plastic, because this is much more flexible than wood, and tensioning the lines properly is a big challenge. -
I have never been a fan of black black colors. Real life things are seldom black black. My favorite black paint color is one called "weathered black" by Floquil (unfortunately this will not be available anymore as Floquil is now dead) This was a grayish black which looked gorgeous in things like black ship hulls or car/airplane tires. For my standing rigging I am now using a very dark brown color, but that gray you show looks very nice.
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I didn't see this message when posted, and it humbles me. Thank you Michael!!!. Your words are really encouraging. Too bad my work on my Vasa has been slow due to some other things I have to do.
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Polo... I have the Ropewalk machine by Jim Byrnes. Whenever you want to see it in person, just call me. Cel: 8110-442233
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Do you think one of these paint sets will be enough for Chris' Victory?
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I ordered The Art of Modelism (Spanish version) from them. The book I received came in an unacceptable condition (apparently used). I emailed them sending some photos, and a second brand new book was received within a few days, no question asked, no returning of bad book asked. This has been my experience with ANCRE. Kudos.
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In the second photo, just at the sides of the hole for the mizzen mast, there is a couple of cannons inside some walls. I don't think they had room to recoil. Where those like that in the real ship???
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Any news on this amazing new kit? I know I want it. Don't know if I will ever build it, but I want it!!!!
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Nice going JanV. I'm following this build with interest. I specially want to see you paint job finished. About a comment above about "aging", remember Vasa sailed only one mile and a half. She did not have time to "age" at all.
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Ferit. I just don't know what to mention that I like most of your build... but I'll try anyway: Your cleanliness. Everything looks so cleanly made. How you modified and built the doors and windows; the rigging of your deck cannons, your ratlines... man you are doing a tremendous job there. You are making a jewel out of a relatively unknown kit. My congratulations.
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JanV. I'm planning to get blocks for my Royal Louis (most likely my next build) from Chuck Passaro here. http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/
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Hello Sjors. Hmmmm... Don't ask me why. That's how I have always done it, and has worked for me so far. I am aware that the shrouds have to come first and then the stays, mistake that I did in the foremast. This only shows my lack of experience.
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Thank you Ferit. No the blocks and deadeyes are not from the kit. I bought them from Jerzy at JBModel.eu, who apparently is out of business. However, check Syren (http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/) owned by a member of this forum, for excellent blocks and other things. There is no plan for sails in the kit, so I am following some other sources for the rigging of them. Thanks for your comments.
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Hello all. Some new photos of my Vasa build. At this moment, all the woodwork of the kit has been finished. Masts and yards have been built, furled sails have been placed on masts, and some running rigging for the yards has been placed. The masts are already glued to the interior of the hull. I made the mistake, when building the fore mast, I got carried away and placed some of the standing rigging stays. Big mistake. I later realized that stays have to be placed after the shrouds as the former go over the latter. Well... I will have to find a way to fix this, that doesn't involve redoing that work. Remember that only the masts are fixed. Yard arms are not, so if you see some misalignment there, it will be corrected with the rigging (hopefully ) Thanks for watching.
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Someone is selling it through Amazon "USED" at 1,500 bucks. Hell... Can I sell mine for half of that???
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How to sew sails on your wifes sewing machine
Ulises Victoria replied to Mirabell61's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
WOW!!! -
That's why I avoid the use of CA in my buildings, and use it only as a very last resort. Acetone works great to soften and dilute CA. Maybe that can get rid of the white thing, but also most likely will damage any finish around it. My advise is to glue bare wood to bare wood using wood glue, and then varnish all the parts a s a whole. That is, whenever possible. We are aware that any advise we give may not be feasible all the time. Hope this helps.
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I don't know who said that Ian, but it sounds to me like saying I will not drive my car because I may have an accident
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I want this kit!!!
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Have there been changes to Model Expo Support?
Ulises Victoria replied to rtropp's topic in Wood ship model kits
I ordered my Corel Vasa from ME in 2010. Further research revealed that the Corel kit was 6 cannons short compared to the real ship. I asked them by email TO BUY 6 cannons because the kit was not accurate. Never got an answer back, but the 6 cannons arrived a few days latter, free of charge. Not even shipping/handling charges. I have many more stories like this one. And the responsible for this was Frank. -
I can not see your deck, but I guess there has to be some holes for the masts, etc. I would put ammunition (small balls of lead for gunshot) through them into the already planked and sealed spaces between frames. Then pour some diluted white glue just to prevent displacement of the balls. Hope this helps. Edit: Another possibility is to use the steel balls they use in bearings. Whatever is easier for you to find.
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