Ulises Victoria
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Everything posted by Ulises Victoria
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With all due respect, Len, but I think that would be overkill when applied to scale models, don't you think? The differences in width of serving lines at 1/64 1/98 or 1/48 are just infinitesimal, IMO. Or maybe is that it's of so low importance that that's why you haven't find any references??? Anyway I would like to hear a more experienced answer.
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Kimberley: This is the second time I see you referring to the scale of you kit as 1:196. I think you mean 1:96, right? Not that it matters, but I'm beginning to think that you are building a different kit than what I thought.
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Another useful rigging tool I have been using for years, are those plastic things they use to pull dental floss through braces. They are more resistant than they look. You get them at Walmart or similar for pennies and last forever. The beauty of these is their very long and flexible stem, that allows you to use them in very tight places or to go around things.
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Help. Need 4 5mm deadeyes.
Ulises Victoria replied to Ulises Victoria's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thank you very much Martin. Indeed, Jerzy's, which were what I was looking for, are more flat and the holes are placed more far apart. Anyway, this morning I finished placing all deadeyes in my Vasa. Had to mix a few of the "regular" ones, but I hope it will go unnoticed These yours look nice, though. -
I am one of those that has modified needles to do my rigging. This way, I make the exact tool I feel I need to do certain(s) job(s). I then red-heat the rear part needle and insert it in a plastic brush handle.
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Securing Eyebolts
Ulises Victoria replied to kruginmi's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I never use the eyebolts that came in the kit, for two reasons: one they are always way too big, and two they are too smooth in the stem. I always do my eyebolts with the jig in the photo. I think it's self explanatory. I have two different wire diameters on each end of the drill handle to make at least two different sizes of eyebolts. This gives the eyebolt some mechanical grip in the stem. I use a glue called Resistol Extreme. I think it goes by other names in other countries. Maybe the photo will help to identify it. The beauty of it is that residues come off like a piece of rubber if you don't wait too long, and is the strongest glue I have tried for this kind of jobs. I've never had a problem with loosening eyebolts, or anything for that matter. Hope this helps Edit 4 years later: This glue is crap. After more than 4 years everything I glued using this glue is falling apart!!!
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I think a pencil marking jig is more accurate and less hassle to make than the string method you describe. All you have to do is cut a piece of wood and tie a pencil to it. Just my 2 cents
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Tony and jud. I did not wet the wood in this example. I have to say it was a very soft wood, the kind used in first planking jobs. For harder wood, I would let it soak in water for several minutes, how much depending on how hard the wood. Adding ammonia to the water accelerates the whole process. Steam is another way to soften the wood.
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Help. Need 4 5mm deadeyes.
Ulises Victoria replied to Ulises Victoria's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Unfortunately neither Chuck http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/ nor Classic Model http://clasicmodel.com/shop/index.php?route=common/home have deadeyes in their stock. I checked the deadeyes in my Mamoli Royal Louis (most likely my next project) and they actually look so good that I don't see the need to replace them. The blocks on the other hand, are awful. Anyway I'd like to see those deadeyes from ME if someone gets them. -
Indeed! Of course what you are seeing in the photo is an exaggerated curve, but it goes to show just how far you can go with it.
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Need help with Revell U.S.S. Constitution
Ulises Victoria replied to Kimberley's topic in Plastic model kits
Hello Kimberley. Well, the person who told you that Revell's Constitution is a good starter ship, either wanted to make that sale really bad, or had no idea what he was talking about. I have built this kit 3 times, so I know what I'm talking about. (I'm assuming it's the 1/96 scale kit?) For help with the knots in the "RIGGING" (the string part) see the answer Anja posted in your first post. If you have more specific questions, just ask. Oh, and welcome aboard. -
Hello SpencerC I don't think so, but I can not fully assure that, as I have used mine for a very short time. What I can say is that it's the best method I have found to bend planks. I suggest you buy your own. They are not that expensive. Here's a link to mine. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050QLCSI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ulises
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Ratlines....why so important.....
Ulises Victoria replied to Script's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Somehow the rigging is the aspect of building a ship that I enjoy the most, but also have to admit that tying ratlines is the part of the rigging that I enjoy the less. Anyway I wouldn't attempt to build a "ratlineless" ship. Just because I like the fully rigged, three mast ships best. As they say, to each his own and it's good that we have different tastes and opinions, otherwise life would be too boring! -
sharpening blades
Ulises Victoria replied to gulfmedic1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
As Frank said, I buy a box of 100 blades and just throw away used ones. Nothing like cutting with a new blade. As a penturner, one of my weakest spots is in sharpening my tools. Still learning that stuff. -
I'm impressed with the cleanliness (sp?... I mean very clean) of your work Jan. It's a pleasure to see your build.
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It worked!!! I am leaving this post and comments here in case someone may have use for them. This (using Photobucket [FREE]) is a waaaay faster to place your photos in a build log.
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Test. These photos may be repeated. I'm doing a test to upload photos from photobucket to here. You can add coments here... or here Comment OVER the url does not provide link to place of origin of the photo (Photobucket) Comment BELOW the url DOES provide a link to the origin of the photo (Photobucket)
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Well... I would use them to store my ropes from my ropewalk machine. BTW I own a PSI Turncrafter lathe too
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Help. Need 4 5mm deadeyes.
Ulises Victoria replied to Ulises Victoria's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
PM answered, Tom. I am really grateful. -
Hello all. While placing the deadeyes on my Vasa's shrouds, I noticed that somehow (don't ask me how) I came up short with (4) 5mm deadeyes. That wouldn't be normally a problem as I could easily borrow them from the 4 unbuilt kits I have in my stash, but these were Jerzy's deadeyes from JBModel's site. Now this wouldn't be a problem either as I could order some from him and I'm sure I would get them by the time I finish with the rest of them, but Jerzy seems to be out of business now. Chuck doesn't make deadeyes, and the other possible site (http://clasicmodel.com/shop/index.php?route=common/home) has no deadeyes at the moment. So my last resort is asking here if someone has (4) 5mm deadeyes from JBModels that can spare. I'm willing to pay whatever you ask for them. (PayPal would be great) I could use some of the "regular" deadeyes instead and they may be completely unnoticeable to the untrained eye, but since I "know" they are there and I know they look different, I rather not. Please PM me if you think you can help me. (BTW I have a shipping address in Texas) Thanks in advance.
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For this, I would very much gladly make the translation to Spanish
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Jim Byrnes Model Machines
Ulises Victoria replied to Mahuna's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you Jim. I have to say that changing the belts made a world of difference in the performing of the machine. The cracked belt made the head turn in an uneven form, and thus my ropes were coming a bit lumpy. Thanks again. Back to make ropes! -
Jim Byrnes Model Machines
Ulises Victoria replied to Mahuna's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Has anyone needed to change the belts of their Byrnes Ropewalk? Mine are developing some ugly cracks already. I ordered a new set, but have no idea how to change them, and I don't want to run the risk of damaging this expensive machine by doing something wrong. Thank you. -
Test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa551waOz5E OK. I just copied and pasted here the link that appears in the upper window in Youtube. The film is not embedded in the post, but the links takes you directly to the YouTube movie. And yes, you need to post the thread for the link to work
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CA glue extender tips question
Ulises Victoria replied to cdogg's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Yes. Acetone will dissolve all traces of dried CA. It takes sometime. So I just let my parts to be cleaned in a tightly capped glass jar when I go to sleep. Next morning they are pristine clean and I don't feel "I had to wait" any length of time.
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