mspringer

Sorry to say that summer activities have taken a toll on shop time.  I did manage to complete one small piece of deck furniture -- the rudder trunk in the Great Cabin.
 
The kit supplies laser cut parts, some in duplicate:
 

 
Assembly of the basswood parts is fairly straightforward and the usual pre-stain, diluted Golden Oak stain, WOP and dullcoat was used .  The brass hinges were blackened with Blacken-it.
 

 
The trunk sits in the rear of the cabin tight against the stern lights:
 

 
Will be carrying out some deck finishing tests prior to laying the deck itself. 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Time for an update, as well as a few other notes on building this magnificent ship.
 

 
The bow filler blocks were a real pain to fabricate. To help get the correct contour, I photocopied the plans and cut out guides to check the shape at different levels. It really helps that Euromodel's plans are so detailed - by far the best I have ever seen. It more than makes up for the scanty instructions.
 

 
Completed bow filler block (left). The one on the right was roughly shaped with a belt sander.
 

 
I used my Proxxon MF70 mill to shape the keel so that they fit together.
 

 
Start of planking! I decided to start at the lower gun deck and go both upwards and downwards. As you can see I managed to get a really tight bend at the stern.
 

 
The bow, with the bow filler blocks installed. The plans are rather sketchy regarding how they should be placed, but it made sense to bring them up to the level of the main deck. If you do so, there will be a gap in the middle because the false keel does not rise high enough. I installed a block (arrowed) to help support the main deck which will be installed later.
 

 
I then started tracing the gunport pattern out onto some tracing paper.
 

 
Note that there are FOUR different sizes of gunports. Interestingly, none of the other build logs mention this. Pete's Interpretive Info on the Euromodel website suggests that only TWO different gunport sizes are present (14mm x 14mm, and 13mm x 13mm). The gunport sizes I measured out were:
 
14mm x 13mm <-- lower gun deck
13mm x 12mm <-- middle gun deck
11mm x 10mm <-- main deck
9mm x 9mm <-- hindcastle
 
Perhaps Pete would like to check his plans (I used Plan sheet #7) and amend his I-I accordingly?
 

 
I have now installed five planks on the lower gun deck, all without tapering. This weekend I will cut out the gunports.
 

 
I also took some measurements of the bulkheads below the lower gun deck - these will all have to be tapered.I used these measurements to calculate how wide each plank should be at each bulkhead. Disappointingly, the lower graph (a graphical representation of the shape of the plank) suggests that shaping these planks won't be so easy!

After considering several methods of creating the Great Cabin floor, I decided to use Chuck's method.  In my experience, doing so is never a bad idea!
 
The floor will be made from walnut and boxwood 3/16 x 1/32" strips.  A paper template of the area to be covered was made and a piece of 6 x 6 x 1/32" plywood was used as the base.  First, the strips were cut to approximate length and glued to the plywood base:
 

 

 
The curvature you see is created by the camera.  Next, a jig was made in order to create 3/16" strips to be cut with an Exacto blade:
 

 
The individual strips were then cut:
 

 
The strips were offset and then edge glued together to create the pattern:
 

 
The paper pattern was then used to cut and sand the floor for a tight fit.  Here's what we got:
 

 
Finally, just some overall shots.  The floor was finished with natural stain, WOP for protection and Dullcoat to give a flat finish:
 

 

 
Although most of the floor will be covered by the (open) upper decking and deck beams, I think we have a nice overall detail.  I'm pleased 
 
Will be closing the shop for the upcoming Holiday festivities (Happy Independence Day to all of my fellow Americans).  When we return, the strains of DECK PLANKING music will be heard in the Rockies.
 
Oh, we have just passed 600 hours into the build.

Thank you all very much for the comments and "likes".  As always, they give me a lot of encouragement.
 
David, I go through a lot of pins.  How does onebuild without them?
 
Mauricio, I am afraid it is only me - as I said earlier, about 3 hours a day on average.  I do tend to work fast - sometimes too fast.
 
Pete, I have been reading about Webb and of course his endowment of Webb Institute and home for retired shipwrights.  A great man and as I understand, a great school.
 
Alan, I do not make bills of materials - too tedious, error prone and not much fun.  Several years ago I acquired two slabs of Swiss pear 2" thick and 10 to 12" wide each about 6 feet long and also a slab of Castelo maybe 2" x 8" and of about the same length.  I used that plus some real Euro boxwood to build Naiad and expect it to be enough for YA.  I cut the wood down to model sizes on an as-needed basis.  This is by far the easiest and least expensive way to go even including the cost of the 14" band saw and the Hogg thickness sander.  Jeff Hayes did a BOM for Naiad Vol 1 to produce his package and I expect that was quite a task.
 
Bruce, I must agree about the American clippers.  I too admire Webb for getting strength without killing off to many forests compared to some others.  In looking at the reinforcement by the massive waterways and standing strakes along each deck I realized that having three decks, as opposed to less, also added great strength in addition to offering advantages for certain cargo needs.  I never realized McKay's problems with fire except for Challenge, but I would not be surprised if Young America also burned - disappearance without atrace with 1900 barrels of crude oil aboard.
 
Thanks again, everyone.
 
Ed

Hi Dave, Thanks and once released I'm sure you won't be disappointed.
 
I had a little more time in the shop thanks to some thunder storms! I've applied a light coat of
wipe on poly. This helps me determine high and low spots that need more sanding.
 

 

 
I will now clean up the highs and lows and then apply a last coat of poly. After that I will finish
the starboard side and then on to the second layer of planking for the wales.   

I got into a couple of those days when I just couldn't stop and completed all of the internal bulwark planking for the quarterdeck, including the transom. I also did the deck margin planks and waterways. The bulwark planking and waterways are boxwood and the deck planking is holly. I followed my usual procedure on this build with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler "treenails".
 
I'm going to do the center strip of deck planking before making a decision on how much more planking to do for gun mounting. I've narrowed it down to three choices: all of the guns on one side and none on the other; all of the guns on one side and a couple on the other side; a couple of guns on each side.
 
Bob
 

A little update time as to what's going on ........ Well ,  I finally got started on the spiling process and I must say I really like it. The only real problem I ran into was finding the right pen that writes on the clear tape. Pencil did'nt work , so I ended up using a  Sharpie ultra fine , works
fairly good ( sometimes ) . This takes a little more time to do, but the end results are worth it. Here's a couple pictures showing the first couple planks at the bow.
 

this was the first plank set on the stbd. side
 
 

I don't know if you can see the tape laying across the frames, but it's there, you can't see where I traced the shape of the plank because the first pen I used was too light. but after tracing the shape, the whole tape was transfered to the basswood sheet and cut out with a sharp blade.Then a little shaping is done  to fit.
 
 

this shows the second plank set, ships curves came in real handy for drawing out planks shape, impossible to do without them (at least for me).
Well that's it for today, hoping to get a few more done tomorrow. Thanks for looking in.
 
Frank

Well here we go again.... another UPDATE!!!!....... I think I left off showing the first two planks being set, I've made some progress since then,
the first band is finished, port and starboard.  Before I started to do the planking I had ordered some basswood sheets from National Balsa.
While waiting for it to come in,I found  a  sheet of basswood that I had purchased from Michael's. ( 1/16thx 3 x24 ), so I thought I'd get a little head start before my  main supply came in. Well my supply came in and I started up again, I had finished 3 rows before I notice that National
Balsa's 1/16th  and Michael's 1/16th were a little off, just enough to p--- you off, so out came the alcohol, the removal was easy enough, I'm glad I did it, it looks better ( to me) I think once the planking is finished and the hull is sanded some, It should look OK . Another nice thing about spiling is that there 's not much room for fillers. I've been beveling one side of each plank that butts up to the previous one so they get a nice tight fit. Following are some pictures of the progress. By the way I highly recommend the spiling method for planking. I don't know what took me so long to try it...... FEAR!!!! :D
 
 
 
 
this is the second plank being fit on the first strake
 

 
 
you could never get this shape by just bending
 

 
the following just show planking to the end of the first band
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Well that's it for now folks..... Thanks for look'n in
 
Frank
 
 

The brick platform for the stove has been completed.
 
I decided to create a base for the (individual) bricks inside the coaming.  The base is 1/32" balsa sheet, painted grey:
 

 

 
3/32 x 1/32" planks were then painted two colors and cut into 'bricks' as seen below:
 

 
The ends of the faux bricks were touched up and then laid individually:
 

 
It's not perfect,  but I'm pleased.  About 60% of the platform will be covered by the stove itself.
 
Next on the agenda is the checkerboard floor for the Great Cabin....as per Ben's 'suggestion'.  Though this may require Divine Intervention, I'll give it a shot.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 71 – Lower Deck Standing/Ceiling Strakes
 
Work continued on the remaining lower deck waterways and standing strakes.  Filling planking was also begun at the bow.  The first picture shows planking being glued on both sides – with the aid of clamps and wedges.
 

 
The second picture shows the horizontal bolts – two per frame – through the standing strake and the frames.  The standing strake is the thick member atop the waterway.
 

 
These are monofilament.  Through holes were drilled from the inside with a right angle drill.  Those through the waterway below are functional copper wire bolts with epoxy as discussed earlier.  They have not yeyt been blackened. 
 
The next picture shows further progress with the forward planking.
 
 

 
All the filling planks on this deck are  6” thick. The picture also shows planking on the port side in progress.  The glued plank is held by wedges in this case.  The next picture taken at the same time shows the space left open for the view port.
 

 
The X-marked frames will be cut out later.  Small pieces of waterway have been installed on the frames that will be left.  these will be planked up so that hanging knees can be installed on the beams at these locations,   All the small pieces will be trimmed back to the frame faces as shown at the forward end of the opening.
 
The next picture shows all the planks installed on the forward port side.
 

 
Fastenings need to be installed on all this planking – bolts for the heavy structural members and treenails for the ordinary ceiling planks. 
 
In the next picture the middle deck clamps near the stem have been dubbed off and are being checked with the ruler.
 

 
This will allow the middle deck hook to be fitted.  The will also be a breast hook between the two decks.
 
 
 Ed

A few items of progress to report on. First, I added the minimal amount of deck planking that I'm going to do in the waist. As usual on this build, the planking is holly with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler for "treenails". There is planking to frame the hatch and scuttle and to provide a base for the railings. 
 
Second, I made and installed the cap rail in the waist. This was done with boxwood strip bent to shape with a piece of half round molding glued to the outside edge and the assembly painted black. The molding extended beyond the cap rail and formed the first portion of the plank sheer molding. Third, I added the aft portion of the plank sheer molding, made from black painted half round. The forward portion won't be done until I do work on the head assemblies.
 
Next will be the hatch, barricade and ladders in the waist.
 
Bob
 
 
 

Jud, thanks for the visual of Grandad...which is what I called mine.  I got his image doing that very thing.  Grandad is also what my granddaughters call me.
 
Mark

Weight and because of that weight and the deflection forces diminishing as you go out from the center allowed for reducing the weight without hurting function. Or could be like Grandad, he liked to stand on the sunny side of the barn out of the wind and whittle a tooth pick from a much bigger piece.
jud

A minor milestone -- work on the gun deck is complete. I have made, installed and rigged the last four guns, added their deck ringbolts and made and installed the jeer capstan, the second of the three required capstans. I also tied the line for the main course tacks to their bulwark cleats.
 
The guns were done the same way as all the others (very glad to be done with them). The capstan was done in boxwood, with a pear cap The pawls (stops) were also made from boxwood, painted black and added to the deck.
 
Next up will be the deck framing for the gangboards (midship decking).
 
Bob

Finally some outside planking going on. I am starting with the easy part, the outer plank sheer and planks to the main rail. I installed the plank sheer in a couple of pieces, with a single piece wrapped around the bow. I first soaked and bent it around the bow and then glued it after it had dried in place. In these pictures the plank sheer is being glued on except the bow, which is being bent and drying.
 

 

 
At this point I realized that I had not added the back pieces for the quarter galleries, so I dug the laser cut top pieces out and made the two bottom pieces. I bevelled the edges of these to fit together at the angle of the knuckle in the transom. As I was dry fitting them, I came to the conclusion that the bulwarks were too high at the transom. I used a steel ruler to extend the tops of the solid pieces along the sides to the transom and and marked this as the top. The backs fit perfectly then, but I had to trim off some of the last bulwark pieces at the transom, which I was able to do with a razor saw and some sanding. I then just had to extend the slot for the stern bumpkins. The rear sieves are now much closer to the top rail, but looking back on the plans and pictures of the actual ship, they are just under the rail, so it is all good.
 
I needed a way to secure the gallery backs so they would be flush with the transom and stay at the right height while the glue dried, so I clamped a couple of planks to the transom that I could clamp the backs to. Here are the backs being glued in place:
 

 

 

 
The bottom pieces I just held in place while the glue tacked up.
 
Here are more planks being applied between the spar deck gun ports. This shot has almost all of the clothes pin clamps I have being utilized:
 

 
For the pieces that I need to curve around the bow, using the model itself was not satisfactory as there is no solid piece across the bow curve at this level, so the next piece I bent came out too flat in the front. I was going to make a solid block the same shape as the bow, but just happened to see a set up yesterday in Hipexec's build log (thanks Rich) that was much easier, using push pins to define the shape and hold the planks. I had some balsa sheet that I used as the base and traced the bow from the plans to it, then added push pins to hold a soaked plank:
 

 
We will see tonight how well this matches the actual bow, but it should be close.
 

I'm pulling up a chair as well.  Here are a couple of jugs of my "special" margaritas...don't worry, there is plenty to go around...
 
Mark

Wow Nenad, it looks really good.  It's been quite a journey!
 
Mark

I've got a Mamoli Constitution in the box and a Revell Constitution in the yard, that was started in the late 70's....where did the time go?  This is a great ship and you are doing her proud sir!
 
Mark

I installed the bow grate. Dam the bedspreads....full speed ahead! Don't tell my Admiral I said that.

Rich,
 
Love your bedspread work area!                Been there and done that.  The build is the important thing.  Keep up the good work and thanks for taking all the time to keep the log up to date.
 
Mark

Rich,
 
Love your bedspread work area!                Been there and done that.  The build is the important thing.  Keep up the good work and thanks for taking all the time to keep the log up to date.
 
Mark

Mark.  First off, you don't need any boxwood for the ribs, keel and other lower hull parts.  The first pieces I used were for the scroll work on the stem which was pretty far into the build.
 
I went with the Lumberyard for the boxwood.  I essentially budgeted $50, thought about what thicknesses I need and what proportion for each then ordered.  I have MOST of that wood supply left, almost barely touched it.
 
Don't worry about the boxwood right off.  Figure out a hull that interests you and start from the basics.  Plank on bulkhead is even an option.
 
Mark

I liked to play Lego with kids ... waiting for their kids to continue playing ...

Mark, your work is just incredible and very inspiring.  I also like the fact that you had said it is all primarily basswood...something that is readily available. It makes me think I might want to try this since I would have more stock at the local hobby shop if needed. Thanks for taking all the time and effort to keep such a detailed log of your build.
 
Mark Springer

Before I take a week hiatus I really felt pushed to try to get the cleats in on the forecastle.  I am sure if the ship were rigged there would be a lot more of these things around the hull but I have opted to just put 12 of them at the bow.
 
After figuring out the size I wanted to achieve I cut out a strip of wood to the rough dimensions, then used a Dremel to rough out the inverted arc on top.  I then used my razor saw to cut out the widths:
 

 
Just gluing these to the deck was asking for trouble with such a small glue area, so while I had some good flat surfaces I cut a hole for a dowel through the middle:
 

 
Now for the fun part - sanding.  Each cleat took 5-10 minutes of work to round all the corners and shape it to the desired configuration.  FIngertips are still sore from that.  I did take a sharp knife to expedite in some areas but very slow and steady.  Upon completion I checked the result against the ship and it seemed in harmony:
 

 
I arced in a line where these should reside then checked off their locations using my proportional dividers.  I glue tacked them to the deck:
 

 
Once they had dried pretty firm I drilled through the previous holes into the deck.  I followed this up with a dowel and some glue for a real solid bond.  Once that had time to dry, a light sanding to finish everything up.  Shortly after I gel coated the whole forecastle (the foremast is not fully seated in the following pics to allow it to dry).
 

 
Now when I stand off and look, that bow sure looks a whole lot better.  Still have that eking rail but that will be for another day.  Oh - I will carve a scroll piece to transition from the top rail to the gun deck rail to clean up that transition.
 

 
A good day in the shipyard!
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark