-
Posts
393 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Senior ole salt reacted to DORIS in ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
The real RC had blue/turquoise upper part of the hull, so I used the same colour on my model:
Before painting - the base is made of pale foil strips with wooden grain:
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Got the wales on and did the deck beams. i also gave the hull a coat of sanding sealer "concocked" from thinned out Min wax polyurethane and West system 410 Microlight fairing filler. The last item was formulated for fairing stitch & glue boats. It seemed to work for models but needed a lot of stirring before applied to models. It was a guess & by god mix , much like Julia Child's recipes. Next will laying the main deck planking.
S.O.S.
PS,notice the foam holder I got from Micro mark. I still "fondle' the model though.
All water craft must be "loved " even models!
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
These little windows were tedious for me. Each one is different and all five come out for trimming and painting. I'm thinking of applying the tallow paint to the bottom just one or two thin coats for now. The rudder needs pintles and gudgeons for the hull. I might try to fabricate them my self. The plan for the rudder is kind of washed out, so I'm not sure just how the top portion looks. The gratings at this scale will have to have 1/32" holes , that's achievable but will have to figure a way to make them.
S.O.S
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from robin b in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
These little windows were tedious for me. Each one is different and all five come out for trimming and painting. I'm thinking of applying the tallow paint to the bottom just one or two thin coats for now. The rudder needs pintles and gudgeons for the hull. I might try to fabricate them my self. The plan for the rudder is kind of washed out, so I'm not sure just how the top portion looks. The gratings at this scale will have to have 1/32" holes , that's achievable but will have to figure a way to make them.
S.O.S
-
Senior ole salt reacted to ChrisLBren in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
Thanks guys - Ive attached a photo of workshop B - (which will eventually be workshop A when its remodeled next year). For now I'm using this space to saw and sand the remaining parts (which aren't many) on Confederacy - to spare the office of sawdust. My Jim Saw is still safely packed away - waiting for the next project and a proper workbench !
And I have finally settled on the next project. After going back and forth between Le Commerce (built as LOrient), the 74 Gun Ship and countless others - I have settled on Le Gros Ventre - built in 1/36 scale. I am ordering the enlarged plans.
The larger scale for a fully framed build is more approachable and not too big - the hull will be approximately 45 inches. I could also potentially rig her - I have the space. I also feel metal work (which I am a complete novice) and sculptures will be a bit easier to realize at this scale. (not too mention as I age it will be easier on my eyes - LOL).
Stay tuned for more pics as I wrap up Confederacy.
-
Senior ole salt reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
After planking the bulwarks I painted it red. The finished bulwarks were 5/32" thick. Maybe slightly thinner. Then it was time to add the caprail. It will be added in two pieces. First the main rail which is 1/16" thick. This was sanded flush both inboard and outboard. Another strip will eventually be placed outboard as a fancy molding. It is scraped like the others and is 1/6" x 1/32". But it wasnt added yet.
First I had to create the hawse hole plates....which are essentially 1/32" thick pieces with the holes ut for the hawse holes and the bowsprit. This sits flush with the top of the caprail so I had to add it first before I could add the fancy molding strip along the caprail outboard. I didnt drill the hawse holes yet. This will be done next. But the hawse plates in position makes it easy to find their locations. So that will be done in a day or two.
Lastly I added that fancy molding strip outboard for the cap rail which stands proud of the hull planking and finishes it off. This is where I am to date and after drilling the hawse holes and hole for the bowsprit I will make preparations to start planking the deck. Its getting there...
I am contemplating painting the hawse plates and the stem above the ear molding black.....along with the fashion pieces at the stern. But I have time to decide that. So I will live with it as it is shown for a while before I commit to it. Maybe after I drill and file the holes for the bowsprit and such...we shall see.
-
Senior ole salt reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
They are thinned down....thats their finished thickness. Check the plans.
See this example of a cutter stern from inboard...see how the frames are exposed? The top is the Cheerful from rogers collection and the bottom is Surly from the museum in Ontario.
Chuck
-
Senior ole salt reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Some notes about the companionway that I will be building next. It is a typical companionway. They are all similar. Some have a more sloped top. But I drafted the profile shown on the original draft which was pretty square. I am sure you could alter it to suit and it would be reasonable and OK.
But one thing I noticed that was different from contemporary models and not consistent. Some Companionways did in fact have a coaming while other did not. Some had wide coamings that stuck out as i built for the skylight. But I decided to model a coaming that way for the skylight on the assumption that some were portable and could be lifted out and replaced with a simple grating for air circulation. But the Companionway is different. My plan shows it with a thick coaming but I may model it without as in the example provided (Second drawing and photo). This way anyone building her can have more visual info and can decide which they want to choose. I guess you can say the image below still shows a coaming but it is just not wider than the companionway which I have seen in other examples. There are such a wide array of different configurations it can get confusing.
I welcome any discussions about it.
Chuck
-
Senior ole salt reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
I forgot to show the image of the Rogers model which was "zero" help. The companionway is basically shown as a giant solid red cube with smooth sides.
You can see the lower and flattter skylight though. This is at odds with the original draft. But I wonder why so little detail on that cube....
Chuck
-
Senior ole salt reacted to Chuck Seiler in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Personally, I am a 'red snob'. I seldom like the red most people use...too bright in my opinion. I like the barn red or caboose red type color for internal bulwarks and appropriate deck furniture.
I am currently experimenting with artist acrylics. Using "Windsor and Newton Galleria" paint, I mixed a large gob of crimson red and a wee dot of Mars Black...and alot of water. I am going for the consistency of olive oil for right now. I think I have the color I want.
The secret (if, in fact, this works) is to start off with the gob or red and add VERY LITTLE dots of black until you get what you want...or what I want.
Now, I will do a test paint to see what it looks like dry, on wood.
-
Senior ole salt reacted to Stuntflyer in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
When first reading chapter two I kept wondering how this was all going to come together smoothly. It's interesting to see how Chuck has put this to work in such a logical way thus making the process much easier than it looks.
Rather than cutting the stern frames individually, each frame X, Y and Z were stacked together and cut as one piece. Each of the two outer frames ZZ were stacked three together. A tiny amount of PVA was used to hold the parts together while cutting them with the jigsaw. I used Elmer's Washable School Glue to adhere the drawings to the parts. The disc sander and oscillating drum sander cleaned things up nicely afterwards. Given the accuracy of Jason's boxwood sheets and Chuck's laser cutting the fitting of the stern frames was a breeze with no sanding necessary. Frames ZZ were faired as Chuck describes in his practicum.
Though apparently simple, I found that the two stern ports were very challenging to make. They are awkward to hold and care must be taken while making adjustments to the angles. They should be positioned parallel to the waterline.
The square tuck piece was then added along with the filler pieces glued behind it. The photo shows the port side after being faired. A lot of material had to be removed in order to get a batten to run smoothly over the hull.
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
I've gotten to the stage I'd like to apply a coat of sanding sealer to the model. But I'll be darned if I want to pluck down 17 bucks for a 1qt can of commercial grade of "Sanding Sealer and use only an oz.. I hear tell one can make your own using talcum powder . I'd like to try that but use some of the cans show above. Can anyone here tell me the right proportions ? And just how good is this home made solution ?
Thanks.
Shown in the images s my lay out for cutting the gun ports. I established their location from the plans and the station marks on the model. I drilled through from the inside of the hull at the center of the proposed cut. I used a thin metal template with a hole drilled through then mounted on the hull in the exact location secured with the pin as shown. Now I can mark with an Xacto knife for the start of the cut. After the initial cut I'm thinking of plunging right into the center with a carbide burr then trim out to the xacto knofe of a small saw made from an old Xacto fine saw blade.
Thanks to those who peek in here.
SOS
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Still making progress with my lift method of the Sloop Providence.
My idea of shaping the hull using a vise block worked out OK. It's removable and capable of adding to as needed when sanding the bottom. So far only 60 grit paper has been used. I intend to use successive finer grits before applying a sealer.
Shown in the image is three cans of what I have laying around. I'm kind of favoring the Helmsman varnish diluted but maybe the shellac would be better.
I got a lot more to do and am starting to order from a supplier made items like the decking. On the way is scribbed decking but it has no simulated caulking.
Shown in one image is a template for the stern transom. ( pardon the cereal cardboard )
A couple of questions if I may:
1.. Will a coat of sealer and then a wash simulate a caulking, or seal out the wash ?
2 Should I apply the sealer to the hull before glueing in sheer mouldings channels etc. and the items like rail frames ?
3. Should I thin out the shellac before using it to seal the wood
Thanks for any replies and interest.
PS
BTW the varnish shown in the background is a marine grade. I use it on one pirogue I paddle around.
S.O.S.
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from CharlieZardoz in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
There are some things on the plan that are unclear to me . For instance the "AP" as indicated by the red arrow,as shown on the attachment . I cannot find it's designation on the profile plan shown to the right.
Any guesses as to it's meaning ?
Right now I'm only building up to the top of WL 4 A and intend to build the fwd. bulwarks and poop deck separately. Keel, cut water and stern post to be added later as well.
Thanks SOS
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from archjofo in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Got the wales on and did the deck beams. i also gave the hull a coat of sanding sealer "concocked" from thinned out Min wax polyurethane and West system 410 Microlight fairing filler. The last item was formulated for fairing stitch & glue boats. It seemed to work for models but needed a lot of stirring before applied to models. It was a guess & by god mix , much like Julia Child's recipes. Next will laying the main deck planking.
S.O.S.
PS,notice the foam holder I got from Micro mark. I still "fondle' the model though.
All water craft must be "loved " even models!
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from PriceMachine&Design in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
OK, I guess no one really knows just how this little raider appeared during the American revolution, but I assume some research was done before the building of a reproduction An architect by the name of Charles W. Wittholz designed the reproduction for the Seaport 76 foundation Newport RI.. This little vessel was the first command of John Paul Jones under the American flag and should have more recognition by kit designers and or modelers.
I was fortunate to get a beat up plans from a former Skipper of the reproduction and will attempt to dope out just what the weathered plans are telling me. Any suggestions, hints comments etc are welcome.
Here is one plan:
The plans, ( shown in the image) are photo copied to the scale 1/4+ 1' and consist of the body and line plans ( some lines missing due to time, water and who knows what.) A deck fittings plan , Mast and spars plan but no rigging and a much faded bow and jib sprit plan. The vessel represented on these plans is the FG reproduction of the actual tall ship now awaiting her fate, and, as far as I know still damaged and not repaired at a yard in RI.. My idea is to construct the model using the lift method for the hull to the deck level and build up the poop deck with side bulwarks and deck. By coincidence each lift on the plan measures exactly ½" very convenient for me as I managed to get some poplar dressed to this thickness. I plan to cut out a portion of the main deck lift to allow some visual glimpse into the lower deck level. This hollow portion will also allow a the insertion for a temporary tendon affording me to insert the tendon into a vise while carving the inverted hull. When this is done I can beam over the hollow portion and cover it with decking..... Dowels will hold the various lifts in register during the glueing process. One may even be the mast but the rake could present problems. Anyway the hole for the mast can be drilled into each lift even before the assembly is glued. Well that's the plan thus far. Mind visualizing, this works so lets see what problems it might present in reality. Thanks for any interest. S.O.S. -
Senior ole salt got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Got the wales on and did the deck beams. i also gave the hull a coat of sanding sealer "concocked" from thinned out Min wax polyurethane and West system 410 Microlight fairing filler. The last item was formulated for fairing stitch & glue boats. It seemed to work for models but needed a lot of stirring before applied to models. It was a guess & by god mix , much like Julia Child's recipes. Next will laying the main deck planking.
S.O.S.
PS,notice the foam holder I got from Micro mark. I still "fondle' the model though.
All water craft must be "loved " even models!
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Add to Post
The Providence plan calls for a wale P&S showing 2' wide the full length of the hull. To determine it's shape I pinned on a "fairing batten' "1/16" X 1/16" " in the designated area. A tweek here and there was needed to get it to look "fair". As much as a 32 of an inch made a difference in achieving a "fair" look . Once satisfied I traced this curve on to the hull using a lead pencil. Now using tracing paper on the penciled line I captured this S curve on a piece of tracing paper which was used to transfer once more on to artists WC paper. This is in the fore ground of the image. I made it ½" wide as shown and placed it on the hull to get the stern and bow cuts.
I figured if I cut this shape on a suitable piece of bass wood it would be near impossible (for me)to connect it to the hull using clamps, pins whatever. So , why not in several narrow strakes reasoning that in full size it would also impossible etc. So I borrowed stock intended for the deck which came prescribed to simulate the calking. This worked out OK for me and in the image are three of the 4 strakes to obtain the wale shape on the hull. I'm still figuring if I should apply a filler or just let the black paint do it's thing.
I still haven't applied any sanding sealer to the hull.
S.O.S
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from archjofo in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Thanks, M Taylor for the advise for a trail cutting. Shown in the image is a cutting of a gun port on a scrap bulkhead. I did use the carbide burr chucked in a Dremel for the initial start then carefully moved to the prescribed cut as related before. I finished up with a 3 cornered file and emery board.
I decided not to cut the ports now but rather later as the hull needs much handling to glue the whale, channels, moldings bow to stern and rail caps. Along with the gun ports and freeing ports in the whole main deck I feel the bulwarks P&S will be rather weak.
SOS
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from archjofo in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
I've gotten to the stage I'd like to apply a coat of sanding sealer to the model. But I'll be darned if I want to pluck down 17 bucks for a 1qt can of commercial grade of "Sanding Sealer and use only an oz.. I hear tell one can make your own using talcum powder . I'd like to try that but use some of the cans show above. Can anyone here tell me the right proportions ? And just how good is this home made solution ?
Thanks.
Shown in the images s my lay out for cutting the gun ports. I established their location from the plans and the station marks on the model. I drilled through from the inside of the hull at the center of the proposed cut. I used a thin metal template with a hole drilled through then mounted on the hull in the exact location secured with the pin as shown. Now I can mark with an Xacto knife for the start of the cut. After the initial cut I'm thinking of plunging right into the center with a carbide burr then trim out to the xacto knofe of a small saw made from an old Xacto fine saw blade.
Thanks to those who peek in here.
SOS
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Still making progress. The transom has been carved to the curve shown on the plan ( or there abouts) I carved it using a cardboard template as a guide. (see image.)
Notice in the image I first cut out for the window, before any shaping was done. The transom is carved from a scrap and provided a "handle". ( It could have been longer) This for me makes the process easier. I used gouges , rasps chisels and lots of sanding. Trial fits were frequent as well as working towards the desired thickness. The template allows me to re-establish the transom outline after sanding or whitling. After getting reasonably close to the desired shape I pinned it on the stern to get an idea how it all looked.
Glueing it on the stern resulted some "rubber band clamping anchored by my "vise block", as well as a conventional clamp.
After the glue sets up, I'll do some more shaping, filling and trimming as I deliberately made the whole thing a bit bigger.
Next comes the windows and inside "glass."
SOS
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from qwerty2008 in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Still making progress with my lift method of the Sloop Providence.
My idea of shaping the hull using a vise block worked out OK. It's removable and capable of adding to as needed when sanding the bottom. So far only 60 grit paper has been used. I intend to use successive finer grits before applying a sealer.
Shown in the image is three cans of what I have laying around. I'm kind of favoring the Helmsman varnish diluted but maybe the shellac would be better.
I got a lot more to do and am starting to order from a supplier made items like the decking. On the way is scribbed decking but it has no simulated caulking.
Shown in one image is a template for the stern transom. ( pardon the cereal cardboard )
A couple of questions if I may:
1.. Will a coat of sealer and then a wash simulate a caulking, or seal out the wash ?
2 Should I apply the sealer to the hull before glueing in sheer mouldings channels etc. and the items like rail frames ?
3. Should I thin out the shellac before using it to seal the wood
Thanks for any replies and interest.
PS
BTW the varnish shown in the background is a marine grade. I use it on one pirogue I paddle around.
S.O.S.
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from JerryTodd in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Making slow progress on my Providence as sailing my sprit rigged sharpie has more attention. However here are some images:
The cut out for the vise block . This cut out has two purposes a. the vise block( to make the carving the hull easier) and b.a kind of "look " to a limited section below the hatches which will be open or at least showing the grate and ladders to the lower deck. Planking will cover most of this cut out which will have short deck beams to support the deck planking.
(Vise block screw holes not showing but this method of attachment makes the vise block easily removable when needed.)
The deck sheer has been cut out along with the camber of the main deck.
Three lifts glued and clamped up all kept in perfect alignment with the nails as shown.
S.O.S.
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from JerryTodd in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
There are some things on the plan that are unclear to me . For instance the "AP" as indicated by the red arrow,as shown on the attachment . I cannot find it's designation on the profile plan shown to the right.
Any guesses as to it's meaning ?
Right now I'm only building up to the top of WL 4 A and intend to build the fwd. bulwarks and poop deck separately. Keel, cut water and stern post to be added later as well.
Thanks SOS
-
Senior ole salt got a reaction from hexnut in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Got the wales on and did the deck beams. i also gave the hull a coat of sanding sealer "concocked" from thinned out Min wax polyurethane and West system 410 Microlight fairing filler. The last item was formulated for fairing stitch & glue boats. It seemed to work for models but needed a lot of stirring before applied to models. It was a guess & by god mix , much like Julia Child's recipes. Next will laying the main deck planking.
S.O.S.
PS,notice the foam holder I got from Micro mark. I still "fondle' the model though.
All water craft must be "loved " even models!