jhearl
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jhearl got a reaction from CaptainSteve in how to make sacks and bundles
Sacks and bales are pretty easy to make from real cloth. Bales are the easiest - fold the cloth around some suitable filler material, glue it together on the bottom of the bale, and tie some rope around it. Sacks are easily made on a sewing machine. Sew three sides with the machine, turn it inside-out, stuff the pocket with cotton puffs or rice or whatever makes sense, and sew the end shut by hand. Below are a couple of examples from boats I've built:
Hope that helps -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from thibaultron in how to make sacks and bundles
Sacks and bales are pretty easy to make from real cloth. Bales are the easiest - fold the cloth around some suitable filler material, glue it together on the bottom of the bale, and tie some rope around it. Sacks are easily made on a sewing machine. Sew three sides with the machine, turn it inside-out, stuff the pocket with cotton puffs or rice or whatever makes sense, and sew the end shut by hand. Below are a couple of examples from boats I've built:
Hope that helps -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from druxey in how to make sacks and bundles
Sacks and bales are pretty easy to make from real cloth. Bales are the easiest - fold the cloth around some suitable filler material, glue it together on the bottom of the bale, and tie some rope around it. Sacks are easily made on a sewing machine. Sew three sides with the machine, turn it inside-out, stuff the pocket with cotton puffs or rice or whatever makes sense, and sew the end shut by hand. Below are a couple of examples from boats I've built:
Hope that helps -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from thibaultron in Small Blocks 2mm
I have not seen these blocks in person so I can't say how they compare to Syren blocks, but ME is selling some nice looking ones now.
https://modelexpo-online.com/Falkonet--F20B1--Single-Block-2mm-Pear-Wood--Pack-of-10-pcs_p_1921.html
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from cristikc in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Artesania Latina #20500 - Scale 1:75 - 2nd build
You can use much the same technique with served shrouds as you do with those that aren't served. Start with a longer-than needed piece of shroud line. Put it on your serving machine and serve only the center part that will go over the mast. Then, put the shroud on the mast and temporarily make the loop (hold it with an alligator clip). Then, using your deadeye jig to hold the deadeyes the right distance apart (note - your jig needs to hold two deadeyes at once), wrap the free ends of both shroud lines around the upper deadeyes. You can then mark where you want your serving to begin and end. Then put the shroud back on the serving machine and serve the ends between the marks. Then you put the shroud back on the mast, seize the loop at the masthead and then seize the loops at the deadeyes.
Note that the serving at the deadeyes come well above them as shown in the picture below. There should be two seizings as well. In your picture, the served part of the shroud is cut way too short.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in Dremel 8050 micro
I have had an 8050 for a couple of years now (in addition to other Dremels) and generally like it, but there are a couple of things I find annoying. First, when you turn it on, it always starts at the middle speed. If you want it to be slower or faster, you have to push the up or down buttons once you've turned it on. If you're in the middle of a job and you need to turn it off briefly, you have to reset the speed again when you turn it back on.
The other annoying feature is the light. Seems like it would be a beneficial thing, but if you're holding the tool such that the light is shining in your eyes, it can make it very difficult to see what you're working on. I wound up covering the light on mine with some tape.
I've never used a Dremel tool for 3-1/2 hours continuously so I can't say whether it would work that long. When I'm done using it, it just goes back in the charger and it's always charged up next time I need it.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Captain Poison in Dremel 8050 micro
I have had an 8050 for a couple of years now (in addition to other Dremels) and generally like it, but there are a couple of things I find annoying. First, when you turn it on, it always starts at the middle speed. If you want it to be slower or faster, you have to push the up or down buttons once you've turned it on. If you're in the middle of a job and you need to turn it off briefly, you have to reset the speed again when you turn it back on.
The other annoying feature is the light. Seems like it would be a beneficial thing, but if you're holding the tool such that the light is shining in your eyes, it can make it very difficult to see what you're working on. I wound up covering the light on mine with some tape.
I've never used a Dremel tool for 3-1/2 hours continuously so I can't say whether it would work that long. When I'm done using it, it just goes back in the charger and it's always charged up next time I need it.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Oliver24 in Dremel 8050 micro
I have had an 8050 for a couple of years now (in addition to other Dremels) and generally like it, but there are a couple of things I find annoying. First, when you turn it on, it always starts at the middle speed. If you want it to be slower or faster, you have to push the up or down buttons once you've turned it on. If you're in the middle of a job and you need to turn it off briefly, you have to reset the speed again when you turn it back on.
The other annoying feature is the light. Seems like it would be a beneficial thing, but if you're holding the tool such that the light is shining in your eyes, it can make it very difficult to see what you're working on. I wound up covering the light on mine with some tape.
I've never used a Dremel tool for 3-1/2 hours continuously so I can't say whether it would work that long. When I'm done using it, it just goes back in the charger and it's always charged up next time I need it.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in Dremel 8050 micro
I have had an 8050 for a couple of years now (in addition to other Dremels) and generally like it, but there are a couple of things I find annoying. First, when you turn it on, it always starts at the middle speed. If you want it to be slower or faster, you have to push the up or down buttons once you've turned it on. If you're in the middle of a job and you need to turn it off briefly, you have to reset the speed again when you turn it back on.
The other annoying feature is the light. Seems like it would be a beneficial thing, but if you're holding the tool such that the light is shining in your eyes, it can make it very difficult to see what you're working on. I wound up covering the light on mine with some tape.
I've never used a Dremel tool for 3-1/2 hours continuously so I can't say whether it would work that long. When I'm done using it, it just goes back in the charger and it's always charged up next time I need it.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes Table Saw Tips (requested)
There was a post along these lines several years ago:
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jhearl got a reaction from Elijah in Eight Sided Drainage Mill by flying_dutchman2 - FINISHED - scale 1:15 - Achtkante Poldermolen
Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in Best glue for paper templates?
I second glue sticks. I used to use rubber cement, but it always dried out between boats and is messy to use anyway and it is expensive. Glue sticks are cheap, work very well and there's no wait time between applying the template and cutting the wood. I'd never go back to rubber cement.
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in Best glue for paper templates?
I second glue sticks. I used to use rubber cement, but it always dried out between boats and is messy to use anyway and it is expensive. Glue sticks are cheap, work very well and there's no wait time between applying the template and cutting the wood. I'd never go back to rubber cement.
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jhearl got a reaction from thibaultron in Best glue for paper templates?
I second glue sticks. I used to use rubber cement, but it always dried out between boats and is messy to use anyway and it is expensive. Glue sticks are cheap, work very well and there's no wait time between applying the template and cutting the wood. I'd never go back to rubber cement.
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in Awesome miniature tools
Another site with some pretty awesome stuff is from one of the sponsors here - Scale Hardware
https://www.modelmotorcars.com/museum/scale-hardware-model-museum/
If you're into cars, there are several other pages of models that you can get to from the top level of their site - https://www.modelmotorcars.com/
Click on the Museum button at the top of the page.
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in Awesome miniature tools
Another site with some pretty awesome stuff is from one of the sponsors here - Scale Hardware
https://www.modelmotorcars.com/museum/scale-hardware-model-museum/
If you're into cars, there are several other pages of models that you can get to from the top level of their site - https://www.modelmotorcars.com/
Click on the Museum button at the top of the page.
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jhearl got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Eight Sided Drainage Mill by flying_dutchman2 - FINISHED - scale 1:15 - Achtkante Poldermolen
Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from thibaultron in White caulking?
The Dumas Chris Craft kit included styrene strips for the caulking. See this video -
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in White caulking?
The Dumas Chris Craft kit included styrene strips for the caulking. See this video -
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jhearl got a reaction from Captain Poison in White caulking?
The Dumas Chris Craft kit included styrene strips for the caulking. See this video -
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jhearl got a reaction from grsjax in asking input on first build.....
If you decide on Latham, you might want to consider getting a copy of American Fishing Schooners by Howard Chapelle. It's a tremendous resource for these boats. https://www.amazon.com/American-Fishing-Schooners-1825-1935/dp/039303755X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537706149&sr=8-1&keywords=american+fishing+schooner
It's an expensive book, but well worth it in my opinion.
Another model to consider is Bluejacket's Smuggler. Similar boat and same scale as Latham but solid-hull construction instead of plank-on-bulkhead.
http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/smuggler.htm
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in asking input on first build.....
If you decide on Latham, you might want to consider getting a copy of American Fishing Schooners by Howard Chapelle. It's a tremendous resource for these boats. https://www.amazon.com/American-Fishing-Schooners-1825-1935/dp/039303755X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537706149&sr=8-1&keywords=american+fishing+schooner
It's an expensive book, but well worth it in my opinion.
Another model to consider is Bluejacket's Smuggler. Similar boat and same scale as Latham but solid-hull construction instead of plank-on-bulkhead.
http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/smuggler.htm
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in asking input on first build.....
If you decide on Latham, you might want to consider getting a copy of American Fishing Schooners by Howard Chapelle. It's a tremendous resource for these boats. https://www.amazon.com/American-Fishing-Schooners-1825-1935/dp/039303755X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537706149&sr=8-1&keywords=american+fishing+schooner
It's an expensive book, but well worth it in my opinion.
Another model to consider is Bluejacket's Smuggler. Similar boat and same scale as Latham but solid-hull construction instead of plank-on-bulkhead.
http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/smuggler.htm
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from tarbrush in asking input on first build.....
If you decide on Latham, you might want to consider getting a copy of American Fishing Schooners by Howard Chapelle. It's a tremendous resource for these boats. https://www.amazon.com/American-Fishing-Schooners-1825-1935/dp/039303755X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537706149&sr=8-1&keywords=american+fishing+schooner
It's an expensive book, but well worth it in my opinion.
Another model to consider is Bluejacket's Smuggler. Similar boat and same scale as Latham but solid-hull construction instead of plank-on-bulkhead.
http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/smuggler.htm
Cheers -
John
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