AON

Completed installing the last of the side quarter filler frames. I will start sanding them to proper thickness (port/starboard) and height next week. Then I cutout the door openings in the frame and install the cills. And then finally the stern frames to close her up.

The tie or tye is the halyard that raises/lowers the lower yard. Item 1 in this image from Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld, page 310.

According to The Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War 1650-1850 by Peter Goodwin Page 179 figure 6/10 The backing piece was called the LINING. The front piece that bottomed against the lower cheek and rose to half the hawse hole and had a radius in it that the holes for the bend of the cable passing over it was called the ELM BOLSTER. The hawse hole had an oak lining in barrel stave fashion, between 8 and 12 segments. This was covered with lead or heavy gauge copper, the latter being used in the 2nd half of the 18th century (1750+), in some cases lead only.

I'll be studying these pics much more closely!

In the days of sail in the RN the crew was divided into two parts, Port or Larboard and Starboard watches. and those were split into as many as nine divisions with each division commanded by a Lieutenant. Each division (I believe) was assigned to an area of the ship. If you were on watch only a minimal number were required to man stations, the remainder carried out ship's husbandry duties (maintenance, cleaning, etc.). A great number of the crew were landsman that were only good for cleaning, polishing or hauling on lines when told to do so. If your work was completed you could rest but best not to be to obvious about it. If you weren't on watch you had leisure time or time to sleep... unless extra hands were called to duty on deck. Trimming sails wouldn't necessarily require extra hands but changing direction and resetting sails might. Battle stations was a definite all hands to duty. These situations would definitely impact your sleep time!

Very nice work! BZ

Now that is roughing it. I feel so bad for you having to survive all that sunshine and warm ocean breezes. (Had to put on my long johns, scarf, toque, winter coat, heated gloves, just to check the mail box today)

I don't know anything about scissor lifts on an aircraft carrier but in industry they can be mechanically screw jack operated, pneumatically operated or hydraulically operated with piston type cylinders. If using a cylinder the body is arranged to lift on the pull so the cylinder rod does not buckle. Would still be one massive diameter rod. Likely not air as it would be spongy. So that leaves mechanical screw or hydraulic operated cylinder. Was it a screw? If a screw was it turned by a hydraulic rotary cylinder?

I thought the model was exceptional... your base board is something to die for. BZ

Yes. And it comes in different densities too. I just got a small piece of the green stuff from a good friend in our club. Started rotary carving late yesterday. Easier but also easier to make mistakes. Like everything else it must take practice.

Welcome from down under (the lake). Looking forward to seeing your build log.

I always find moments like those to be a good time to practice all my sailor words 🙄

Started over on Tuesday by making two new side counter timbers and installing them. These are shaped properly in the upper third of their length, straight, flaring inwards, not outwards. I went downstairs early Wednesday morning with my reading glasses and noticed the small marking I had on the supports marked "o/s" indicating the line was to the outside top edge of the timber. When I installed it I wasn't wearing my reading glasses and didn't see the small "o/s". Yup...... I installed it inboard of the line. "Ping" followed by another "Ping" was the sound made as these were removed and moved over to the proper side of the line. Why is there always time to do it twice. Hold on. This is technically three times. I won't be posting more photos until I get further along with this.

Came off easier then putting it on... crying just stopped moments ago 😢 It doesn't have to be perfect.. just a bit closer to correct and then I'll be happy.

Nothing done on my build the last couple weeks. Recovery from another needle in my eye, 47th wedding anniversary, 69th birthday. But I was back at her today. Dry fitted the timbers to the roundhouse transom beam. My timbers were made taller on purpose so they could be trimmed after fitted. Learnt quite a bit so it was all worth the effort and delaying the inevitable.... then tore it all off. The next time will be better.

He does know his stuff (and then some)! 😇

That is the problem with good photos... they seem to highlight things the eye never focuses on! Having stated that, I think you did a wonderful job.

Good evening Bob, Been staring at your posting for a bit now. Don't know whether to pick like, sad or wow. I am so sorry for your loss. Four years must seem like yesterday. I wish you every success in finishing Cheryl's Niagara. Alan

Possibly maintaining one common angle to the decreasing height right angle triangles might be pleasing to the eye. Presently the angles vary which might be what is distracting to the balance. Otherwise I think it looks amazing. Well done. As for COVID. It is climbing back here in Canada... it never went away, people just decided they had enough of it and any restrictions imposed. I understand that if we'd have only kept wearing masks the damn virus would have died out as it could not have been passed on. Masks kept Covid, Influenza (the flu), and the common cold at bay... and now cases are increasing and heads are buried deep in the sand. I have always been impressed by the care people in the far east display for their neighbours. Donning a mask when having the sniffles so as not to pass on any cold. Here it seems people are more concerned for their "assumed rights" then the health of their fellow man, and politicians are more concerned with our vote then our health.

I always had to see the assembly being built, fitted together, in my minds eye before I could start a 2D drawing. I was surprised when I learnt not all people do this. We had a very talented wood carver in our office, he had won ribbons for his life like birds. I couldn't believe he could produce things so beautiful but could not envision a mechanical assembly to draw it! 3D does require a good deal of advanced planning that I still find challenging.

five counter timbers made and tapered. roundhouse transom beam marked off. all three transom beams removed now. eye needle tomorrow (ouch) morning so I'll be staying out of the dust for the rest of today and until after the weekend. when I get back at her I'll notch the roundhouse transom beam for the five counter timbers and assemble these. Then I'll mark and cut the other two transom beams and install them then I will build in all the other timbers and beams.

Gary You ask why? I ask why not? Living up to my motto I suppose: "only dead fish go with the flow!" The wing transom and deck transoms are two different radii per the plan. The horizontal distance from the foot of each counter timber (vertical beam) to the seat transom (the one below the quarter deck transom) are different from each other on the one (half) side of the ship so the lower arcs of each are different to accommodate the change. At least that is what I deduced from it all. If I sand them all together that difference wouldn't be met... or I am overthinking it all. I'll make templates to fit to my transoms, make my counter timbers, then taper them. Then remark my transoms to locate the tapered counters. Then I will remove my transoms to notch them to fit the tapered counters. In my mind it seems perfectly logical and simple but as this is my very first attempt it could be a nightmare or car crash! Stay tuned.

I made one cardboard piecemeal template for one set of timbers (photo below) Then I made the timber set, two sheets of wood stuck together with rubber cement so you cut once to get two matching sets. You apply the rubber cement to both sheets, let it dry then press them together to hold. After cutting, cleaning the cement residue with a crepe eraser, sanding and test fitting as best possible without notches, the foot of the cut timbers were bevelled at about a 5° angle (photo below). Interesting observation Druxey. You see something but it is not what you think. In reality the side counter timber tops are in the correct location. The timbers are supposed to be a straight line tilting outwards and down to what I will call the knuckle which rounds outwards (see posting #1447). In my clumsy, inattentive, and inexperienced effort of shaping these in situ the straight portion actually rounds inwards (see posting #1458). I realized this a few days ago when I had first attempted to layout the inner counter timbers and could not visualize what was wrong. The black strings made it pop for me. I was going to tear it all out and start over but decided to continue and gain more experience and will decide after I 'get her done' as they say. I imagine if torn out it will set me back a couple months. The second time is always quicker and normally better. I could possibly do a better job with the door cills too. On the other hand, everything is eventually possibly covered and might not be seen. I'll be chewing on this for a bit yet.

Now try to build it at 1:12 scale and you are one of us crazy people.

There are three transom beams in the upper half, two mentioned above for the Roundhouse and Quarter Decks, and a third at about the height of the top of the rudder. I managed to get these three temporarily installed but had to use PVA as the rubber cement would not hold up to what I did next. I tried marking the positions for the lights (windows) but was having trouble envisioning it all. To make it clear for me I tied some black waxed upholstery twine on the upper beam with a clove hitch and then to the wing transom with a simple bend as the wax seems to grip and hold it. They were equally spaced at the top beam and then again at the lower beam (needs some minor adjustments again) and now I can see it developing. Once I have it in a final position I can mark these on the beams with a pencil and then pop off the beams to cut the notches in them. Before I do that I think I will make a few cardboard templates for some of the pieces. It is hard to see the fanning of the strings in the photo but the upper (1st or Roundhouse Deck Transom) beam they are spaced at about 1/2" and the lower (3rd) beam about 5/8".