AON
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..... still (slowly) installing clamps. Here is a steamed 2nd or middle layer gundeck clamping strake bow piece being put into place. The mate (on the other side) already installed and clamped. seems I sometimes need one or both shoes on my wooden clamps whereas at other times I do not. I still haven't used any elastic bands on them. Very warm outside today, so I was working the dining room. I expect the weather to swing over to fall very soon. When that happens it is back to the dungeon.
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Hamilton photographer, Brantford model set Guinness World Record for deepest underwater photo shoot The June 2021 shoot was recognized by the organization earlier this year. Modelling has taken Ciara Antoski all over the world. The Brantford woman has posed everywhere from Australia to Taiwan and Switzerland to Spain. But it was a pandemic-era photo shoot with Hamilton photographer Steve Haining that not only took Antoski to the bottom of Georgian Bay (Ontario, Canada), but also launched her into the pages of the Guinness World Records. Antoski and Haining, along with master scuba diver Mareesha Kulps, hold the record for the deepest underwater model photo shoot at 6.4 metres — or 21 feet. A Guinness spokesperson confirmed to The Spectator that the record was set in June 2021 near Tobermory.
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In the old days, before CAD, when engineering drawings were by hand on a draughting (drafting) board with a Tee square, protractor, set squares, pencil and sanding board, or ink and pens on paper or velum, a draughtsman would be drawing hundreds of lines to scale a day, so he measured with the proper side of a triangular scale at the drawing scale. It saved time and was as accurate as the thickness of a pencil or pen nib allowed. Sure we had calculators. But not long before that we used slide rules. Good lord I hated those. Electronic calculators were a gift from the heavens. Time is money... why else would they invent CAD. Do you need them now? Only if you don't want to spend the time calculating equivalents.
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Installed one length of the upper of three gundeck clamps using my large wooden clamps to hold them in place while the glue sets. Found the pivoting shoes didn't work so I rushed and removed them. Clamped without elastics but need a spacer block so I used a shoe. I'll get the other long piece on the other side tomorrow and work my way through them. I decided I will install the orlop deck clamps.
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Stern counter beams done. Short stern quarter upper deck clamps steamed and clamped in place for shaping. I should have those on permanently tomorrow. Then I'll work on the gundeck clamps. I've not bothered posting photos as it isn't at all that exciting.
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I used some string to measure the length of upper deck clamp required for the curvature of the bow. Cut my length, steamed and clamped it in place to dry. Glued and clamped that on the next day. Below you see it running up to the stem post. Today I sanded the stern counter beams. A little more work to go on them before I install the upper deck clamps back there. I wasn't really happy with my work closing up the stern but after today's sanding effort I feel much better about it.
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Completed the sanding and installed an extra long length of the port or larboard side Upper Deck clamp yesterday. The contract reads that they were 4'-6" long scarphs "to be tabled into each other with hook and butt". As the actual connection will not be seen and I've yet to master such a joint I decided to give myself a break and do simple square end butt joints. The top edge of the deck clamps are about 3/8" below the gunports. I marked the upper location with a pencil to help locate them. Wood glue was applied, deck clamp put in place and holding clamps installed and left overnight to set and cure. I decided to run about 2/3rds of the length in one strip as I could just reach most of the length with my bar clamps and only needed to use three of the homemade elastic band wooden clamps through gunports. There is a short length required at the stern quarter and another at the bow. The bow piece will need to be steamed and clamped to shape. Moments ago I installed a similar long piece on the starboard side and I'll not touch this again until tomorrow. I'll work on the short pieces next, and then the Gun Deck clamps will be made in shorter lengths and clamped with the elastic band wooden clamps alone. I've still not decided if I'll bother with the Orlop deck. She is stiffening up quite nicely.
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Yup...and they either connect to the sewer, run off to the street and collect in the sewer, or a stone pit at the far end of the yard. That works wonderfully until your run off water is overflowing (ground water flood) causing the sewer system to backup because it cannot handle the volume...then you have a flood in the basement.
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All dry, water sensor/alarm installed, and a standing pipe and floor drain gasket on order from New Jersey (they don't sell these in Canada). I made a mess of the nice clean shop floor yesterday, cut and sanded my upper and gun deck clamps. Went to install them and it seems I hadn't quite done a good enough fairing job inboard at the upper deck level. So I'll be at that today.
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It is almost back to normal now. Should be 100% by tomorrow night. We've lived here over 20 years and this is the second rain storm that the sewer system couldn't handle the run off. After the first we made sure to get everything off the floor but over time the memory fades and we get lazy. Not too much lost but the perimeter drywall got a good soaking. Some boxes ruined, stuff for donation turned to garbage and one extension cord to our cycle gone kaput. Most stuff was in rubbermaid tote boxes so that was fine No tools lost but all my sawdust was caked to the floor of the shop with a trail to the drain. Three stains on the floor to deal with. I built extra shelves well off the floor yesterday for any new stuff. The fans have done a good job drying things out but the humidity has gone to my paper plans hanging in the corner. At least the model was upstairs on the dining room table so she is fine. I'll be installing a stand pipe rubber gasket in the floor drain for next time.
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Since it was raining quite alot this weekend I decided to go down to my basement shop to make the additional deck clamps. Discovered about 2 inches of water had flooded the basement coming up from the floor drain. The wife and I have been purging, cleaning, drying it all out since. Taking our first trip to the city dump tomorrow morning.
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The pieces are quite deep (long fore and aft) so once again I did them individually.Next will be sanding and filing. When this is done I will get my other deck clamps installed and then make my fore and mizzen lower masts... then the mast steps and deck beams.
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Finished the repair work and sanding. Last item before turning my thoughts completely inwards is to install the lowest transom beam, located above the wing transom and the two aft gun ports. Seems to be called the helm port transom beam. I've also been thinking about closing this log as it has grown quite large and opening a Part Two build log that will deal with my tackling the installation of the decks and onwards.... but first that last transom beam.
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Finally got back to it... working outside. Cut and installed the cills at the starboard galley door locations and the aft poop deck gun location for the carronade. Presently working on a larboard or port side and fixing an error. I accidentally cut the timber tops down at the wrong location for the carronade. Removed the centre timber stub and sarphed the outside two. Added a scarphed block to the forward timber... did likewise aft... and installed the new centre stub. I need to add the chocks, do some sanding and I can move on.
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The Foredom is like a Dremel in my mind and my Dremel is occassionally possessed by evil spirits when carving with proper carving bits. I cannot imagine the difference when using an exceptionally high speed Turbo Carver that sounds like it is designed for the job.
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Please, if you can, explain your developed technique to install the gunports quicker.
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I tried printing a flag on thin tissue paper once but didn't like the results. The ink bleeds through to the other side as expected... just the colour seemed off.
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- bellerophon
- victory models
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You can always tell a real sailor by their colorful language... You did a great job with the flag. Nice and crisp looking.
- 364 replies
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- bellerophon
- victory models
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Might I suggest... If you dilute white PVA glue in water (50/50) and brush this on the rope it will dry in the shape you set it. Don't use CA glue as eventually the rope would become brittle and fall apart. Alan
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Yes. Above the "As" line. But when going by colour one person's red can be another's orange! This is the case for my wife and I. It has to do with the number of cones in your eyes. So it is better to go a little higher then to find you were to low... but we aren't building rockets so maybe it isn't so important.
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and lastly... Most industrial heat treat companies soften their steel by cooling it very slowly, over hours of computer controlled heating temperature drops in a heat treat furnace. This forces it to cross the transformation lines higher on the curve so the material is even softer (HRC25?). This would be ideal but we hobbyists do not have the means or time to do this. From what I've learned today about home quenching in oil I would personally avoid it. Hot water should work as well but the blade is so thin that allowing to air cool shouldn't take an unreasonable amount of time.
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