Jump to content

AON

NRG Member
  • Posts

    2,580
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AON

  1. Looks very clean, a place for everything and everything in its place. 👍 I've learnt that whatever you do when cleaning up, ignore all urges to reorganize because you'll never find that special tool once moved.
  2. Good morning Rob. Air brushing is another process I've not attempted. You definitely have the talent for it. Very realistic.
  3. It has been taken apart and parts epoxied over night. Now I will need to chose a suitable colour and get a can of Acrylic spray paint. ... and I worked on my Bellerophon upper deck gunports yesterday afternoon Druxey! 🙄
  4. The complete assembly. The lower ring is not pinned to the crown of the astrolabe base part.
  5. The retention plug cover installed over the pointer and the lower swivel and upper ring assembled (and pinned with copper wire).
  6. Cover fitted. The gap will be filled with wood dough and will disappear when painted.
  7. The cavity filled with fifteen 1 cent pieces. There is a penned note on a piece of folded paper below the coins.
  8. Over the last two days I completed the clean up and dry fitting. Yesterday morning I did a test with the epoxy on two rafts to make sure it didn't dissolve the PLA/wood fibre material. Yesterday evening I glued the cover on the back and the hub or spigot back onto the face. The hub broke off in cleaning and fitting parts. As the hot printer nozzle lays and presses a layer of filament on top of a lower layer, the layer becomes a wee bit wider than one would hope for at mating surfaces, hole and hubs. So holes need to be opened up, flashes cleaned off, and hubs need similar treatment. I ended up with a slight interference fit between the pointer and hub, or so I thought, but turning the pointer might have twisted the hub a bit, weakening it. When I attempted to disassemble them the hub snapped clean off. I repaired this with a short piece of 1/4" wooden dowel and epoxy. I put a groove down the length of the dowel and filed a couple shallow notches in the hub matching hole so when the epoxy set the spigot hub to base assembly cannot spin. If I were making more of these there are a two things I'd change: Increase the fit tolerance for less cleanup and increase the embossed numbers to a bolder font. Below is the result, dry fitted, in stages.
  9. The print finished after 17 hours and 5 minutes So much for the 15hr 3min estimate. Here you see the finish front. Needs a bit of cleaning up. Dimensions are body 6" diameter x 5/8" thick and 7" tall over the crown Next is the back or rear that faced the raft and glass. As this was hidden it could not be "ironed" as the front or top face was. This will need a bit more sanding and cleaning. And that is why I print four layers instead of two. For those unfamiliar you can see the "supports" in the ballast coin cavity and on the crown. As these were steps up in the build process those layers needed supports provided under them or the machine would have been printing in mid air!
  10. Now I am anxiously awaiting it to complete the top layers and hub or spigot for the pointer. Tomorrow I will clean it up with various sand papers, and check the fit of the pointer, lower swivel and ballast back cover plate.... and the coins. I will slip a note on top of the coins for the person that some day might open it up.
  11. My print settings are mostly default. I change the wall thickness to 4 layers, and 20% infill (Grid pattern). This means the inside is not hollow nor is it solid. Saves on material, cost and time. Print temperature is 210°C, bed temperature is 60°C. I always use a build raft and reduce the margin to 10mm outside the object. I use a raft because somehow that always sticks to the bed and the object always sticks to it. If I don't use a raft a successful print is a complete gamble. Here you can see the base printed, the raft is under it, on top of the glass bed. You can also see the 20% infill. At the top is a shamrock shaped outline. It is filled with a "support" that I will remove when cleaning up. The support is what the top face prints over to close this rear access pocket. This is where the coins will go.
  12. My 3D printer is a JGAURORA A5 as seen below. If interested you can google it and see the specs for the unit. I have the option to connect it directly to my computer but I choose to use a Thumb Drive (USB Stick)
  13. I should mention the costs are for material only, not electricity nor design time. I also want to mention my adornments on the ballast face side. I added the year in Roman numerals (2022) and the dots are not braille. It is a star map of the Little Dipper with the north star and the Southern Cross and the three others used to find the south pole.
  14. I use the free Ultimaker Cura version 4.13.1 to create my g-code to print. I will post pics of the printed parts tomorrow. I am using a PLA/wood filler filament. It can be easily sanded with regular wood sand paper. Here is the data I've collected so far. PART EST`D ACT. WT. LG. COST 1. body 15h 3m ???? 127g 42.47m $3.80 2. Pointer 2h 19m 2h 41m 20g 6.6m $0.59 3. Plug 19m 22m 2g 0.79m $0.07 4. Swivel 27m 34m 4g 1.23m $0.11 5. Ring 1h 27m 1h 43m 12g 4.11m $0.37 6. Cover 1h 15m 1h 18m 8g 2.71m $0.24 Total 173g 57.91m $5.18
  15. This is my 3D model (created in Fusion 360 - free hobbist version). Front and back view. There will be six printed parts and two copper wire pins. The body, pointer, plug (on the post over the pointer), lower swivel joint, upper swivel ring, and a back ballast cover. I need the ballast cover to cover the cavity I've created to place a number of coins to create ballast weight as the 3D printed version only weighs in at about about 173 grams. My weight will be a number of 1 cent Canadian coins... not in use, not accepted as currency anymore.
  16. This figure was the basis of my model. An astrolabe retrieved from a Spanish wreck.
×
×
  • Create New...