AON

Cat whiskers go to a fine point. Paint brush hairs are cut blunt and thicker at the ends. Which ever is appropriate for the job at hand.

One fellow working with CA on tiny parts used cat whiskers as an applicator for tiny deposits. If you know someone with a house cat the whiskers fall off regularly and new ones grow in so if they spot them on the floor ask them to save you a few. They are quite fine and stiff!

I would never have thought to try that.

I know I'm standing back quite a distance but it looks damn good from Ontario! 🤣 Will you be using any of the techniques shown at one of te NRG Saturday Zoom workshops. They have a video on the website if you want a refresher.

Yes, that is what I am now watching. Interestingly.... I have a electric soldering gun with heat adjustment and a variety of tips, including a hot wire cutter!

... and again I am learning something new!

all gun deck beams fitted (tack glued in place) Working on the deck hook and eking (spelling?) pieces at the bow then I'll mark the centerline and carling locations, pop them off and notch them.

Obviously you meant CDO 🤪

Kevin We have a member in the MSON club with one. They used it to make their copper tiles. Would you like me to dig up the name and send you his contact info? Alan

I had a few machinist tools I used regularly in a different life. Two dial verniers, a tee micrometer depth gauge set and the spring loaded telescoping (hole) gauge set. Occassional I find a use for them in retirement.

Gun deck beams fitted and tacked in place. I used the small square to align the aft edge with the beam below so the gun deck hanging knee misses the standard orlop deck knee below. (The first beam aligns with the one below. The second and third do not. Those after do again) Telescoping gauge used to measure the gap between the orlop and gun deck beams for the height of the columns. These beams are slightly fancier, square at the top and bottom and some turning in between. Quite a bit to do before columns!

Just recovering from another eye injection, 44th to date. This one was the best reaction/experience to my recollection and so I hope it means I might be getting better as opposed to the doctor has finally got enough experience 🤣 The last thing I did on my build was add the columns under the orlop deck beams (photo below). These were not fancy, simply 9" square at the base and slightly tapered upwards, but I didn't bother with the tapering detail. (I also started fitting the gun deck beams but no photos as yet) I am now contemplating the purchase of a slightly used Soling 1 metre R/C sailboat as our club (Model Shipwrights of Niagara) has had a few members out sailing on the local recreational canal this summer and I've been out taking photos and videos of the events. I've got all my costs figured out, and my accountant is on board with the expense. I'll be test driving it on Tuesday morning. If interested you can view a 4 minute video of the club's first r/c boating event here: https://vimeo.com/957260258?share=copy

Yes I did, but your method seems so much better than what I did. I hope to remember what you've recommended for the next time!

I refer to those moments as "practicing my sailor words".

I can easily imagine your calm collected reaction when first noticing those damn lines twisted together!

"Got up the nerve" I know the feeling well.... and also the satisfaction and surprise when it actually works .

Standard knees installed yesterday. Glue cured today and I decided there is one last thing I want to do. I will drill and insert faux bolts in the knees to complete the look. Here are a couple photos. Not much to look at. Today I cut my beam stock for the gun deck the beams at the bow and stern are slightly smaller but as no one will ever measure them and one cannot physically see the difference at this scale it is not worth the effort. I will square all beams to 16" (0.25"). They should be rounded to 5" (0.078") but that cannot be seen either so it is definitely not worth the effort. I shall try to do better with my joinery on this level. I've very little Castello Boxwood left so I am now using Pau Marfim as that was what Exotic Woods in Burlington, Ontario, had in stock in 2" x 8" x 91". My 10 year old full size Canadian Tire "affordable" table saw died a few months ago so I bought a new one at RONA, an upgrade, and I like it very very much. I put the old one out on the boulevard and it was picked up by scavengers before the sun set. Cut off a 20" length from the billet. Planed it flat on four sides then sliced it down into 0.3" squares on the Byrnes table saw. I'll sand them down to 1/4" square tomorrow on the Byrnes thickness sander. And so we begin again.

Happy Canada Day everyone! I haven't posted in a bit as there are many summer events and one special project keeping me occupied or distracted. I did get all my gratings installed on the orlop deck and have been installing the standard knees on top of the beams... except the fore most three and aft most four and those adjacent the second futtock riders. Thank goodness it is all deep in the hull as the assembly isn't as pretty as I'd like but it was good practice. Possibly today or tomorrow I'll have them done. then I'll post a photo and start on the next deck.

This has become my go to reference for rigging photos! (so keep them coming please)

hope the move goes smoothly and your back to building soon

Just lovely. No other words for it. Well done! BZ

The planking of the orlop deck was flush also. The short planks were set into a rabbit or notch and they were lifted out to gain access to the hold. The only areas where the long deck planks were above the beams and fastened normally like other decks were those areas with permenant cabins or walled storage areas. The grating was to allow air circulation and minimal light into the hold.

Good idea. Sometimes the double sided tape is difficult to clean up. Thanks!

I had completed making all the Orlop deck gratings (image below). From what I could find they ran along both sides of the hull , full length, and this was called the carpenter's walk. There was also a run along the bow from port to larboard (starboard) and three central gratings. The topside of all were flush with the top of the beams. The first task was to lightly sand the top of the grating battens to be flush with the grating ledges as mine stood a bit proud. I set my sandpaper down onto the small repurposed pastry marble slab with some double sided tape to keep it secure and had at it (image below). Installing the gratings was, at first, an overwhelming challenge. The grating ledges were to be set into notches cut into the deck beams and carlings. Aligning these notches properly was impossible, and occasionally splitting the beam corners off unavoidable. To alleviate this, I simply cut (chiselled and scraped) the corner edges off of the beams and carlings that the grating ledges were to rest on, and then I sanded the underside corners of the grating ledges that were to rest on those beams and carlings (image above). Applied a little dab of white PVA glue and plopped them into place. When looking down at it you cannot tell the complete beam corner is gone, plus it will be deep enough below other decks that seeing anything will draw attention away from such a small detail. In the image above I only have the three central gratings installed. I did not install the floor, lower futtock or second futtock riders. The second futtock riders pass through the Orlop deck and up to the underside of the Gundeck clamps. In doing so, these run alongside the deck beams and pass through the gratings in those areas. That is why some beams haven't knees in between bracing them. When installing those gratings I notched them out to allow the passage of the riders. I have no intention of adding the riders... they won't be seen or missed. Once all the gratings are in I will install the Orlop standard knees above the floor beams. Then I move up to the Gundeck. I am further along than these photos suggest but still will need a couple of nice days to finish them off. Yes, I am back outside working on the ship, so nice weather is a must. Yesterday was rainy, today is a bit cruddy, and the next few are forecasted to be wet!

I think it better for ventilation and drainage open. A model of the Bellona has it open.