AON

Made and fitted the lowest breasthook to the stempost/bow. Started with fitting a cardboard template. Traced that onto my blank and cut it on the scroll saw. Fitted again then sanded the bevel. Dry fitted in photo below.

All three lower masts are assembled less their woolding ropes. I don't know why but the mizzen was a beast to complete. They are presently stored in their stand in a box safely out of my shop. I decided to try to make a ship's wheel. Three attempts so far. All failed, but I learnt quite a bit. Refined my setup. I have a sliding top in a fixed base. My template is rubber cement glued to a thicker card that is rubber cemented to a rotating table (block of wood on a metal pin). I bevelled all the under edges of the rotating top and waxed the moving bits. The wood was PVA glued to the template. The rotating top was centred under the cutter and all was clamped in position. The sliding top was moved so the cutter was located properly, then lowered to touch, the top was rotated slowly and the cutter was lowered to remove a thin slice, then repeated. This worked well the last time. It was the wheel spokes the did me in this time. I didn't like them at all. I am rethinking that step.

Darn good start. Mine took multiple starts, stops, starts, scrap, repeat. It isn`t museum grade but I`m happy-ish with it. Seeing what you`ve done so far with your carvings has me wishing you might make me a new figurehead. But we will wait till you`ve done before it comes to that.

I'll make a note of that. Thanks

Lord knows they had lots of tar.

I don't think the canvas back in the day was painted. I could be wrong. I plan to use light khaki coloured paper, like the kind used for packing by Amazon. Dry fit and trim. Glue on one surface with white PVA so it dries clear and wrap it around with the seam facing aft. If you like add pencil dots to simulate nail heads the next day, after everything is completely dry. Should look gorgeous. If not, dabs of water will help soften the glue to remove it.

Started my third lower mizzen mast yesterday after having scrapped the first two. They will be used for something later... possibly a yard? I don't know why this mast is giving me trouble. As the diameter of this one is too small for my lathe support I have shaped it following David Antscherl's description in Volume IV pages 15-18 of The Fully Framed Model. Getting the initial tapered shape wasn't where I screwed up. It was the flat for the cheeks. I managed to get them correct yesterday. Going to work on the cheeks and trees this afternoon. I have conflicting information on this lower mast with regards to having or not having a front fish. Only one reference wants it to have the front fish. For it's size it is a made mast but without a spindle, and it will have no front fish. Once again I simplified this one by shaping one 3/8" thick square piece, knocking the four corners off and sanding round and slightly tapered. Due to the size I think I will simplify the cap tenon by offsetting a straight square. A photo will be posted when done.

This photo is from early yesterday with woolding hoops and metal hoops installed. All bolts have since been installed in the mast and the trees are assembled and installed. Today I finish installing the bolts and leather gasket on the mast cap. Then I move on to the Mizzen lower mast.

I started my second lower mast, intending it to be the mizzen but my steady only goes down to 1/2" diameter so I turned the foremast instead. I may have mentioned it is a made mast and rather then go to all the trouble I did with the lower made main mast, I decided to simplify this one. The centre is one piece instead of two. The front fish is an add on reaching down to almost the foot as it should for the time period. The side cheeks are added pieces as are the bibs. I made the mast cap and talked myself out of simplifying the angled square mast head tenon that fits into the cap. I thought of making it a straight square piece as no one will see it but me... but then I cheated on everything else. So in the first photo below you see my completed lower made main mast in the back ground. The lower foremast is in the fore ground with the front fish and side cheeks added. I hadn't removed the square stock extensions at the foot and head yet. The stock for the bibs, two pieces rubber cemented together, has the card template on it, ready to mark off and cut two at once. The next photo below shows the mast cap and the angled square mast head tenon that fits into it. The bibs are attached and upper woolding hoops have been installed. Later this week I will install the lower woolding hoops. This were made from Costello wood shavings as was done on the main mast. That is all for now.

Thanks. The steady is from Lee Valley Tools. It is quite solid with three wheels (one below and two above) and took a couple tries to figure out it was a simple scissors adjustment. Now moving it about and resetting it is quick and easy.

In this instance for the length and diameter of the part, three times.

I had a busy September; getting things ready for fall and winter, and my son's wedding. I reworked the one carving (of the two) I had done for my kayak model for scale after having attended the NRG modelling realistic water workshop. I think this link will take you there to see the before and after of it: I have installed all the deck clamps I care to, including the orlop deck, and am presently turning my lower mizzen mast. As it is not a made mast it will be a bit easier. The shot below includes the "steady" Druxey asked about quite some time ago. I did a rough major diameter turn. Marked off the upper and lower quarters and presently have the top tapered. Going to work on the lower half Tuesday. Expecting company tomorrow (Canadian Thanksgiving Day). Once I have this and the lower foremast made I will install the three mast steps and then the deck beams.

Welcome aboard. You'll not find a better forum or helpful group of people than here at the MSW. I sent you a PM (private message).

Prior to mid 1800's port was referred to as larboard.

I think she's water tight now!

Yup, sailors have been using both common whipping and sailmaker's whipping for centuries. Two quite different whipping methods. The former is quick and can slip off the end of a wet line, the latter is long lasting, so much so that it was used on the end of reef lines, two sailmaker's whippings in series. When the end of the rope wore down past the first whipping of the two in series due to it slapping against the sail the second took over until the sailmaker could take the sail down and change them all out again.

The seizing in the video above is actually called common whipping used at the end of a rope instead of a back splice, to keep it from untwisting or fraying.

Thank you "No Idea"... I usually feel as if I've no idea myself. I fully expect things to be a bit wonky. As the deck cross beams should fit into pockets in the clamp strakes (to keep them from rolling over?) I am thinking I could make adjustments with the depth of the pockets or alternately not do pockets but rather notch the end of the deck beam to sit properly (height wise) on the clamp strake. The will be a considerable amount of dry fitting involved to see this through properly. I may need a bigger scrap box. Eventually the top sides will be sanded.

Good morning Jaager Room and Space is 2'-8 1/2" Floor Timbers from 3 to C are 16" This leaves 1/4" (0.004") spaces Yes it increases as you move away from the DF to 1-3/4" spaces (0.027") and 2-3/4" (0.043") spaces No. 0-80 UNF thread has a major diameter of 0.06"

Thankyou Jaager. If you install every other frame there are gaps of more than adequate size for threaded bolts. Following the room and space per the contract does not allow an adequate gap... especially at the smallest of 1/4 inch gap (at 1:64 scale) between frames. Being a novice I didn't appreciate why modelers left every other frame out. As a matter of fact, I've learnt to appreciate more then I likely could ever remember... which means I am doomed to repeat some things. I agree with your statement regarding clamping pressure and I have been pleasantly surprised with what these simple large wooden clamps can do.

If you manage to get the camera at just the right distance, angled just so, and get the lighting just off the right amount... she looks fantastic! Don't get too close though because the fantasy is ruined. I double checked the heights off the plan, the distance below the gunport lower cill per the contract, the height needed for my 3D printed guns, and the wind direction. So it will definitely be off!

..... still (slowly) installing clamps. Here is a steamed 2nd or middle layer gundeck clamping strake bow piece being put into place. The mate (on the other side) already installed and clamped. seems I sometimes need one or both shoes on my wooden clamps whereas at other times I do not. I still haven't used any elastic bands on them. Very warm outside today, so I was working the dining room. I expect the weather to swing over to fall very soon. When that happens it is back to the dungeon.

Hamilton photographer, Brantford model set Guinness World Record for deepest underwater photo shoot The June 2021 shoot was recognized by the organization earlier this year. Modelling has taken Ciara Antoski all over the world. The Brantford woman has posed everywhere from Australia to Taiwan and Switzerland to Spain. But it was a pandemic-era photo shoot with Hamilton photographer Steve Haining that not only took Antoski to the bottom of Georgian Bay (Ontario, Canada), but also launched her into the pages of the Guinness World Records. Antoski and Haining, along with master scuba diver Mareesha Kulps, hold the record for the deepest underwater model photo shoot at 6.4 metres — or 21 feet. A Guinness spokesperson confirmed to The Spectator that the record was set in June 2021 near Tobermory.

In the old days, before CAD, when engineering drawings were by hand on a draughting (drafting) board with a Tee square, protractor, set squares, pencil and sanding board, or ink and pens on paper or velum, a draughtsman would be drawing hundreds of lines to scale a day, so he measured with the proper side of a triangular scale at the drawing scale. It saved time and was as accurate as the thickness of a pencil or pen nib allowed. Sure we had calculators. But not long before that we used slide rules. Good lord I hated those. Electronic calculators were a gift from the heavens. Time is money... why else would they invent CAD. Do you need them now? Only if you don't want to spend the time calculating equivalents.

Installed one length of the upper of three gundeck clamps using my large wooden clamps to hold them in place while the glue sets. Found the pivoting shoes didn't work so I rushed and removed them. Clamped without elastics but need a spacer block so I used a shoe. I'll get the other long piece on the other side tomorrow and work my way through them. I decided I will install the orlop deck clamps.