AON
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Another project completed.... the Donor Wall display for the local library. Now they just need to start collecting donations so they can add plaques to the leaves.
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Yes and yes. I do not intend to handle them anymore then necessary. But damn they do look good!
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Received my swivel guns today! OMG they are tiny.... and so sweet. (3D resin printed from my CAD model .stl file by a local club member)
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Some day I will want to make one at 1:64 scale so I am all eyes
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think having your stock lay flat beats every other option
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Ropewalk: A Cordage Engineer's Journey Through History
AON replied to BenD's topic in Nautical/Naval History
It is interesting for the purist to note that none of the ropes are BLACK or WHITE. Even the 4 strand tarred rope is not BLACK. -
and the journey begins.
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As a sea cadet we said Bell-air-a-fon. But a crusty old RCN (ex RN) Commander once corrected us saying it was Bell-er-o-fon just like it is spelt. I am sure the Greeks have the proper pronunciation.
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Thank you Druxey. I believe I tapered the stem from keel to knee per the dimensions in the contract but that was some time ago so it is worth checking again.
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The Fully Framed Model (6th Rate), vol 4, pg 44 - served all over The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships (1st Rate), pg 226 - seized at the bight at the heart and another at the foreside of the hole at the in the knee and a third at half span between the other two. Historic Ship Models, pg 276 - the two parts were seized together in several places
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hmmm I'm finding the bobstay on some models has the two parts of the one line served (wrapped) so that it is essentially one line. This would mean it would clear. Anyone know more about this? I will keep looking.
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So I am merrily moving along at a snails pace cutting thin strips with my new Byrnes table saw and installing chocks between frames when Flyer posts he noticed an issue with his bobstays interfering with his figurehead in his Bellerophon kit build. The arm broke off of his and he glued it back but possibly not in the same position. Even though his figurehead is different than mine I immediately thought I might have a similar problem and I'd best check. So I installed my bowsprit and figurehead and dummied up a couple of bobstays and there it was, the lines were bent inwards at Pegasus' hooves and lower fore legs. When I get the nerve to try and clean up the horse's head I'll thin down the hooves and legs. I can possibly thin down the stem a little to help create minimal clearance.
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A few months?!? 🤣 I work at the speed of dark... very slowly. It will be many many months before I get anywhere near that point.
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- bellerophon
- victory models
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Now you've got me worried.
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Found it! Of course back then I never thought of recording the source. Once again, this likely doesn`t apply but it is interesting how simple it all was.
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George What an interesting question. I was cleaning up my computer the other day and came across an image of the Victory's chase gun ports. It likely does not apply to your build but it was a fascinating sketch. I was so glad I kept it and wondered how I might have forgotten about it. Now, do you think I could find it again? It showed the lights (windows) above the removable bench that ran across the bulkhead. The deadlight or wooden covering that raise from below the lights, between the bulkhead and the bench via lead weights, a line and pulley on each side. The bench would be removed and the deadlight raised to reveal the chase port which was locked via two sliding bolts, one to each side, like you might see on a fence gate or old pantry door. I wish it would show itself again. Alan
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Thanks for asking this question. The answer has been filed away for future use!
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Don't let the rank go to your head. We all know the spouse is the Admiral. 😇
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Good morning John D. I've looked in both The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War by James Lee (pgs 49 and 50) and Rigging Period Model Ships by Lennarth Petersson (pg 20) and both suggest the Bobstays were rigged differently than your plan. Rather than a block and tackle system they suggest a collar (strop) around the bowsprit up against cleats and utilizing a deadeye block or closed heart (before 1840) per Lee. He suggests the deadeye block was preferred. The rope feeds through the hole in the Stem and both ends are eye spliced. The other end near the bowsprit would have another matching deadeye block or closed heart. A lanyard is wrapped around through both deadeyes to haul the bobstay tight and is then secured by possibly wrapped around the lanyard loops and tied off with a couple hitches. Petersson shows a closed heart but Lee says the deadeye was preferred. And this is the problem with kit plans versus historical accuracy. If you use a block and tackle as your plan suggests, I believe the running end normally would be secured somewhere accessible to the crew and secured there as opposed to wrapping it about the tackle loops and securing with hitches. Now as the captain you get to chose what to do. No one will question you.
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You have quite a talent. If I attempted that there would be a puddle on the table top.
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- Victory Models
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During my downtime I did some research into the ship's wheel. Seems it was very much like the Victory's. A double wheel with a tall fore pedestal and a short aft pedestal. HMS Elephant plans (above) and HMS Victory wheel (below) So I drew it up to fit between my decks and forward of my mizzen mast. Assembly between decks (above) and details (below) Then I drew up some details so when I need a change I can chose to work on my fore or mizzen lower mast and trees, painting/asembling my 74 guns, or the ship's wheel. It is nice to have options.
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Thank you Druxey, Pat and Kevin.... and others for the "likes". It is encouraging to see people are interested even though I move quite slowly. As I've just completed my third day of recovery following another needle in the eye I am now allowed back in the shop to make dust. Before I do that, my plan is to pencil mark all the remaining gunports (triple checking deck heights) so I can install chocks (spacers between the frames) above and below them. When this is done the whole works should be quite stiff but I will also install a a couple cross braces athwartships on a couple top timbers for additional support. That is when I will begin sanding inside and out... unless I decide to cut out the gunports first and install the upper and lower sills. This might be the smart move as the locations will already have been marked in pencil and not sanded off only to need to be marked again. I've got time to chew on this a bit.
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Well it has taken me quite awhile but I have finally arrived to this milestone. The last two frames went in early this morning... and everything looks much better. Now to finish marking off the gun port locations, install chocks, etc., etc....
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All my staining and sealing of the library donor wall leaves is done. So I've begun the rope work, making the tree branches with 1" and 2" rope, sailmaker's and common whipping of the cut ends underway with 2 oz. waxed twine. So that is keeping me busy. I had to remove a few of my frames on my build as they weren't quite right and I felt I could do better. Presently assembling the dead flat frame. I had attended the NRG seminar on table saw safety and Kurt had showed us a simple thickness guide for the Byrnes table saw. I had also attended a virtual meeting of the Society of Model Shipwrights (UK) and John Garnish had showed us his version that employed separating the key lock from the guide adjustment locks. His guide had a wheel on it where as Kurt's had a "point" and was reversible. So I was inspired to blend the two and below is what I came up with. Kurt announced that the NRG will be selling their simplified version on their website at some time in the near future. I will be buying one to see how mine measures up.
Our Emblem ®
