AON
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last images before it is painted
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Made the javelin and the cloak. The javelin head is glued to the shaft. I notched the head (a 1/8" diameter dowel) and stepped the shaft into it with glue. When dried I shaped the head with a file and sand paper, having filled the notch with glue so the dust might fill the small notch. The cloak was shaped and fitted a dozen times and is now glued and clamped. I also glued the tip of the wing back on. From a distance it all look darn good to me... though I'm not particularly thrilled with Bellerophon's or the Pegusus' head up close. Regarding painting most of the figurehead features white... it wasn't until 1814 that the Navy Board approved the use of gilding and colours for figureheads. (source: http://figureheads.ukmcs.org.uk/?p=1715)
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She has been cut free and is presently being fitted. Almost there! Once I have that done I will do a bit more sanding, add the cloak (because I'll have a better feel of the space left), re-attach the tip of the right wing that broke off, make the javelin (hole already in the hand for it) and paint it. Then it goes into storage for safe keeping. RE: Painting. Golden helmet with white plumes, and a red cloak. I understand everything else was simply painted white. Somewhat like the Atlas carving saved from the Captain's stern gallery as seen below.
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On this side of the peninsula we call that *** backwards. For a micro second I thought my horse was backwards??? I understand what your saying and have seen photos of this. Let's see how I manage.
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We had a couple of absolutely gorgeous days here in the Niagara Peninsula so I decided to take some work outside... and make another attempt at my interpretation of the original figurehead. Below are a few rough carved photos. It needs considerable cleaning up but looks good so far.
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Took another look at my Iron Bars and decided they are keepers, so I won't be replacing them. However, I did notice something missing on my mast.... the LUBBERS WOOD! These are 1-1/2" thick planks installed on top of each Cross Tree and they fit inside the Lubbers Hole in the TOP. As they will help self centre the TOP onto the TREES when it does get permanently installed I decided to add them today.
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Thanks. I'm not sure if I will redo the card stock iron bars.... I put them away so I can look at them fresh next week or so.
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... and I did complete the display case base for my kayak. I envision a carved walrus in the back left corner on some ice and one or two carved glaucious gulls flying over on the nameplate side. But that is for another day.
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I added the iron bars to the outside of the main top for the deadeye shrouds. This are blackened card stock. I added the swivel gun chocks inboard of the above and drilled the six holes for the swivel gun posts. I needed to determine the height of the swivel gun chocks. The hidden lines in the drawing tells me the radial top battens pass through it, that it is taller then them. I decided to make them the same height as the gunwale plank below the handrail stanchions. Below are a few photos. The top is not secured to the trees as a number of blocks need to be added and they might be easier to do with it separated. So I stow the mast in a rack in a box with dust protection, and the mast top clamped to a piece of wood (keeping it flat and safe) with a guard for the handrail... in a box, and then this in the box with the mast rack. It will be awhile before they are mounted so I need to keep them off to one side. Now I go back to my last few frames.
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After considerable research, finding most reference books disagree with each other and some presenting juxtaposed information within themselves, finding only one recent reference to the metal band in the NMM/RMG collection, finding no mention of swivel guns in any Bellerophon newspaper reports of the day, finding several images of different styles of swivel guns for the period in the NMM/RMG collection, finding a reference to an order to stop the practice of arming HM Ships with swivel guns a decade after 1786, and realizing copper would corrode (galvanic reaction) with the iron of the deadeye strap.... I've decided to install the wooden swivel gun chocks and add the blackened iron metal bars along the outsides as one length per side as in my mind the original as launched build would have likely had them whether they were used or not. Hope to have this done after I've finished the base for my Aleutian Hunting Kayak which I am in the middle of completing. Late last week I completed the base for my Mississippi Plank River Raft as can be seen below.
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Now I know how I might apply the name on the transom of my build (a few years from now). Thanks!
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Wish I could offer some advice about stenciling but I suppose that will be one more thing I'm about to learn.
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The late 1700's saw a lot of changes, like the woolding ropes/hoops being replaced with iron hoops, various developments in the dolphin striker. Your rudder bolt heads look wonderful... thanks go to John Cairns of our local club for having shared this method with us. Those plastic build guys can do amazing things!
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I recently had to do the same thing for my 3D program. Why can't they leave well enough alone?
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Poplar, hmm. I used it as contrast for the floor boards and double bladed paddle of my kayak.
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Sorry to hijack this build but I've one question. Why does a raft adhere when a brim or just the object doesn't?
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I am not sure how your printer feeds but I have the same issue. I level the bed 3 times after it has been allowed to warm up and soak at temperature and noticed no matter what I do the centre is perfect and the corners are tight or the corners are perfect and the centre is loose (concaved glass?). And I clean it before every use. I tried printing off centre. Tried a brim. The only thing that consistantly works for me is a raft. Also, occassionally I need to disassemble the feeder and clean the gear teeth as it gets clogged with filament and then starts skipping.
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I am not sure why, as I can see 5 people liked the last post, but I cannot open the link I get a "cannot find" message.
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I think the unusual pic without the lug dipped is because the cox'n has no crew to do it and he cannot leave the tiller unattended.
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finishing 1786 British main mast top (platform) deadeye shroud slots
AON replied to AON's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
One afternoon of searching revealed only one item with any detail. Not really a primary source as it is a model of masts and yards on a display board, dated as being displayed at an exhibition in 1938. If you zoom in on any of the three tops you can see the bar with the slotted holes through it. There is no swivel gun chock though. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/68788.html I'll keep looking. -
When I was a teen (1969-70) the lug rigged boats were set with a rope/bullseye type fitting that dropped onto a traveller hook that was raised up and down on the mast. Just a short portion protruded forward of the mast. When we tacked it was one fellows job to dip the lug to the other side of the mast. I'll see if I have any photos. I should have mentioned the traveller was a leather covered metal hoop with a hook. A halyard was used to raise/lower it. update: photos I have are too far away, or the traveller is too high (out of frame). sorry.
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finishing 1786 British main mast top (platform) deadeye shroud slots
AON replied to AON's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Notes to myself FACT: So the most convincing argument against a copper plate is the galvanic (corrosion) reaction that would occur between the iron deadeye strap in contact with the copper. OPINION: In Mr. Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships book: he may have suggested copper but failed to mentioned it would be blackened to simulate iron. OPINION: In Mr. Lees' Masting and Rigging book: The iron plate was not individual pads between the stiffening battens, but was one long plate running under the stiffening battens in the early version of the top construction (1745) , and over top in later version (1794) of top construction. Worth noting: It was not shown in the 36 gun version, but then they are shown again in figures for 1802-1815 and 1815-1833 which are not attributed to any specific size of ship. I will continue my search for any definitive primary source. I am also intrigued by the swivel gun chocks and have been looking into those.
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