AON

Kevin I have the LV miniature chisels and use them all the time, as they are. I would not extend the handle as that changes the pivot and may damage the shank attachment. I also have the LV filter/mask and use this all the time. Being the cheap bastard I am I pop the filters out and take the vacuum to them to get a longer use of them as they ain't cheap. Can you PM me info on where you purchased the Japanese brass clamps as they look interesting. And please let me know how the LV mini scribes work for you as I've been eyeballing them for awhile but wasn't sure they were worth the expense. Thanks

Thank you for the kind words Dowmer. As I am retired now, and on a budget, I use the cheapest version of DraftSight for 2D drawings, for which I received a notice that if I did not renew for the next year I would loose out as they are no longer offering that level... I guess I am grandfathered in until they decide that no longer counts. Originally this was free. Nothing lasts forever when there is a buck to be made. For 3D modelling I use the free hobbyist version of Fusion 360.

Agreed. Or you might consider making your own scale rope.

My lower mast tribulations: I had previously made my lower main mast as per Steels, Mast Making (1794), Volume 1.1, Tables (dimensions) and plates (drawings) 2 and 3. I began creating my fore and mizzen lower masts using calculations from formulae in the same publication while referencing plates 2 and 3. This is when confusions began to arise. Some calculation did not agree with the table figures and the figures did not completely agree with the descriptions. For example, the bibs and cheeks are smaller on the drawing then as calculated. Similar dimensional differences were realized with the main top (platform). So I had to employ "artistic license" and massage the drawing so the two smaller masts didn't outshine the main mast that I'd already made. Then came the length of the front fish. Steels plates clearly show them extending below the orlop deck on the main mast, and not so clearly on the foremast for a 74 but quite clearly on a 36 gun ship, so I added it on my 74 foremast. However there doesn't seem to be a front fish on the mizzen mast. I checked other builds and most don't have this type of detail, or they show the improved shortened and narrowed paunch that came to be about a decade later. I checked my books, the Anatomy of Nelson's Ships by Longridge shows the short narrow paunch from a decade later. AOTS Belona by Lavery (figures H) shows no front fish or paunch at all. Masting and Rigging OESOW by Lee, which are observations on historic models, (section 1, Part 1, page 2) disagrees with Steels plates, stating the length of the older style front fish or paunch on the masts stopped above the upper deck. Then (page 3) states the mizzen mast was not fitted with a front fish as a permanent fitting, but did have a rubbing paunch (?). I decided to make all my lower masts similarly. My mizzen mast being so much smaller would have a less prominent front fish. I also continued my woolding hoops to just above the partners (upper deck) on the mizzen mast, not as shown in Steels. For those interested, below are my drawings for my lower foremast, mizzen mast and their tops. My drawings print on 8-1/2" x 11" (A size) sheets of paper and are at 1:64 scale. Each mast drawing is on two sheets that need to be taped together. The "splice line" is clearly identified. fore top layout.pdf mizzen top layout-Model.pdf Foremast Cheeks+Fish+Bands - sh 1 of 2.pdf Foremast Cheeks+Fish+Bands - sh 2 of 2.pdf Foremast Layout - sh 1 of 2.pdf Foremast Layout - sh 2 of 2.pdf Mizzen Mast Cheeks+Fish+Bands - sh 1 of 2.pdf Mizzen Mast Cheeks+Fish+Bands - sh 2 of 2.pdf Mizzen Mast Layout - sh 1 of 2.pdf Mizzen Mast Layout - sh 2 of 2.pdf

Tacking and Wearing A well spent 8 minutes and 54 seconds Thank you.

Very clear instructions and very realistic results. Thank you Tom.

I suppose she simply needed to pass periodic inspections during the build and so long as she was sound and not less than the specifications she was " good enough"!

I completed my mast calculations and came to the conclusion that, once again, Mr. Steel and his rules do not agree with his plates of tables and scaled diagrams. Knowing no one will be taking a measuring rule to my build the yard will likely be applying the "good enough" rule. PDFs of my calculations and a summary spreadsheet are attached for those interested. My mast, trees and tops drawings are in progress and will be posted later. AND... one of our local club members agreed to 3D Resin print my swivel guns from my model! (fingers crossed that they turn out wonderfully) Hope everyone had a safe Christmas holiday.... and have a safe New Years celebration. mast dims summary - spreadsheet.pdf Lower Mast Calculation.pdf

As I am staining the leaves for the Library display I cannot afford to stir up any sawdust from my shop so I decided to go back to my computer and work on my made fore and mizzen masts.... but before I start that I modelled my 1/2 pound (1-1/2" bore) swivel gun for my fore and main tops (platform). Originally I saw these as 16 inches long but that was from one reference, a Battlefield 18th century swivel gun manual printed in 2016. Lewis and Clark had a 1-3/4" bore 22" long barrel swivel gun in 1804. It's just that everyone I talk to suggests naval guns we scaled down in size so my 1/2 pdr would be 27 to 30 inches long following that train of thought. At 1:64 scale that makes it just under a 1/2" long! Now to see if they can be resin printed as my other cannons were done.

Year end update? My build progress to date: Only a few frames to go. If you've been following you know I've also worked on the figurehead, bowsprit, jib boom and associated yards, the rudder and the main mast and tree. But I am again distracted. I volunteered my time to make a donor wall display for our local library. They wanted something like this. But I proposed this. And I am presently sanding the leaves (yuk). The edges have been bevelled (45°). They will be stained (3 different stains for variety) and sealed. I made card stock templates to locate the hangers so they each dangle at their proper angle. 2" synthetic manila rope for the main branch, 1" for the off shoots to be spliced in. 2 ounce waxed whipping will be used for the sailmaker's whipping to finish the one base end and common whipping for everything else to keep things tiddly!

Really enjoyed watching you win that battle! Jazz... I couldn't help but focus on the birds in the background. It is -3°C here in the Niagara Falls area (-35°C a bit northwest of us - Thunderbay, Ontario, Canada) All our birds are hunkered down waiting for the sun to pop out.

a ready made rolling table! waste not, want not.

It's like building an igloo (with dirty snow)!

Good afternoon "Flyer". I am very interested in following and understanding your rigging of this ship. I appreciate your comment about the Preventer Stay rigging changing in 1793. This will be very helpful to me. I presently have one question: what do you mean by the statement of "The futtock shrouds have a strength of 1 mm"? Did you mean diameter?

I don't like to waste money replacing perfectly good filters. But the design of these pleated filters with crossing cardboard retainers makes it difficult to vacuum the filter clean even with a crevice tool. So I modified it. Removing the cardboard cross pieces and replacing with a removable thin wire screen (to assure the pleated filter doesn't fall out) increased the open area by 19% (increasing filter efficiency) and makes access for cleaning much easier. Quite an improvement if I do say so myself.

Mark, I have been faithfully following since 2019. It will be a shame to not see her completed but that does not compare to the news of your health. It is indeed terrible news, and I pray you continue find the strength to stare that bastard down and fight on. Alan

McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/number-drill-bits/

תודה על המילים החמות. אני מוצא את הפורום הזה מאוד מועיל. כל החברים מאוד נותנים! .Thank you for the kind words! I find this forum to be very helpful. All members are very giving!

Just finished cutting the last of the square frame pieces moments ago. Now to fit, and assemble, and install, and move on to .... sanding. Also got a few new items for the shop. The ceiling mounted air filtration unit has be up for a couple days and it has caught quite a bit of the mess that use to migrated throughout my basement (and probably the whole darned house). The thickness sander, table saw and accessories came in early last week. They haven't been used yet, but very soon! The fees getting them across the boarder were outrageous... more than half the costs were Canadian taxes!

Practically in my back yard. The site is next to the fire fighters training centre and the old sea cadet hall.

nice save!

Welcome to MSW Peter. If you're looking for a monthly live connection with other modellers there is the Model Shipwrights of Niagara (Niagara Region) presently conducting Zoom meetings. Next one is being held on Nov 21, at 1:30 PM.

Welcome to MSW Paul. I understand there is a great modelling club in the Hamilton area (Confederation Marine Modellers) and then ours down in the Niagara Region (Model Shipwrights of Niagara) if your looking for a monthly connection!

Welcome to MSW from near Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada. We were all new once.... and some of us still don't know what we are doing! (that would be me more than half the time)

Derek Let me know how the clean up goes on the PLA as my experience was it was difficult to sand or file. A flat blade on the soldering iron helped a bit but your supposed to use wet sand paper on it... and a good dose of elbow grease. 😉