AON
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Usually it is more difficult to decide to take something apart then it is to actually do it. It doesn't get easier over time but the time to decide gets shorter. -
Thank you Gary. This is fantastic!
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That is why I cannot find it. I do no have issue 41! Could you possibly PM me that complete article so I can add it to my collection. I originally was given a stack of different magazines and I scanned the articles that related to my build and filed them on the computer for future reference. Then I gave the magazines away to our local club members. Issue 41 was not in the stack. Your comment about David's drawing Techniques article was not lost on me. I only have part 1. Are there others and do they discuss the stern?
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Yes I can see the page number. What is the article, magazine, edition, author. Sorry but I am cuffuffulde and cannot figure it out.
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Gary what article was the page you scanned from?
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Gary Re the scan you posted I didn't see that in my pdf. I might have missed it. I will double check.
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Gary I've found the nine part series of Traditional Wooden Shipbuilding by David White to be very informative but even he doesn't seem to spend much time on the stern and quarter galleries.
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Another step closer on Thursday. Nothing done yesterday or today as I'm getting yard work done. Those doorways were awfully narrow!
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I have issue 42 (part 2) but not issue 41 (part 1). Other than a couple photos it doesn't seem to offer much guidance for the side quarter frames. Am I wrong?
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Yup. I has deleted my last paragraph to Gary about closing up the stern because I was afraid I was getting ahead of myself. I will be so happy when this part is completed acceptably.
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Thank you Gary. I thought I understood it when I drew in 2016. Six years later it seems I had to almost figure it all out again, even with my drawing, and those few by others. Now that I am half way through the side quarter framing it seems easy enough.
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three more quarter filler frames installed.
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I can't imagine how they did it either. It seems like it changes direction at every step!
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Cut, fitted and glued. Also installed one filler each side. I left lots of room for sanding.
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Started work on the side counter timbers on Saturday. Tried again yesterday. My third try today. I made the blanks deeper today so I had something to hold and pin. I also took a piece of pine 2x8 and made a support shelf to rest the timbers on. Took me until today to imagine that. I drilled and pinned these to the wing transom so I could transpose the hull outboard shape. Then I pencilled in the molded depth I will cut these shapes tomorrow to near the correct molded depth leaving something to sand.... because I enjoy sanding so much.
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I always back off the blade when I'm done so setting them flat on the table isn't an issue but while the blade is extended I lay it on its side.
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Hold on a minute! You live on a paradise island in the Caribbean and you need a get away cottage? 🤔 When are you going to post a schedule for your modeling pals to visit? Obviously we just want to see you model in person 😎
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Those joints look pretty good from the cheap seats.
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I was hoping you would have received an answer regarding the ladder/capstan issue. I believe the handles/spokes/spikes were only installed when the capstan was being used to do heavy work like raise the anchor, otherwise they'd be stowed away to create clearance for the crew to get around, eat meals and rig their hammocks for sleeping. If this is indeed the location of the capstan and the ladder (as depicted on the plans), the ladder must have been removable so the capstan could be operated, just like all the interior bulkheads (cabin walls) were removable and stowed away to create clearance for the guns to operate. They had more than enough crew to handle it, and tons of space to temporarily stow it off to the side.
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The photos are excellant. The movie was about 1 second. Is that what you intended? The pencil marks for the drop plank locations seem to look better but you best wait to hear from someone more experienced!
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I am not certain how others manage but I left my frame timber tops thicker (molded depth) than what the contract called for as 3/32" is quite delicate and I am quite clumsy. Now that I have the gunports in it was time to sand them to the proper thickness... but being a visual fellow I needed something to guide me. Now some time ago Druxey had mentioned these were 6" wide. Being so smart I looked at the contract and it read 5-1/2". Now that I am wiser I re-read the contract and discovered they range from 4-1/2" (stern timber) to 6-1/4" (beakhead) with those in between being 5-1/4" or 5-1/2"molded depth. And having some (albeit limited) experience I realise this is 0.070" to 0.0978 or a mere 1/64" difference... and no one is going to measure it on the model so I decided 3/32" nominal depth for all locations was acceptable. (why do I question him?) I cut strips of paper 3/32" (0.094 or 2.4 mm) wide. Rubber cemented them to the top of the timbers so I could see the shape and thickness. Sanded and removed the paper and residual cement. Now I will be giving everything another sanding before I complete the framing at the stern. Meanwhile (yesterday) I 3D printed my 32 Pound carronade barrel at 1:12 scale... another side project.
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I am in complete agreement with Flyer .. but then I will always chose the flying Bellerophon when offered a choice.
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