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AON

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Everything posted by AON

  1. I am certain I have this info and can look through my files when I get home later... unless someone else answers before that.
  2. My completed working mariner's astrolabe. Painted and one coat of matte sealer. The $0.15 ballast made a huge difference!
  3. I will be using Kingart Metallic Acrylic - Bronze - paint on my astrolabe
  4. Looks very clean, a place for everything and everything in its place. 👍 I've learnt that whatever you do when cleaning up, ignore all urges to reorganize because you'll never find that special tool once moved.
  5. Good morning Rob. Air brushing is another process I've not attempted. You definitely have the talent for it. Very realistic.
  6. It has been taken apart and parts epoxied over night. Now I will need to chose a suitable colour and get a can of Acrylic spray paint. ... and I worked on my Bellerophon upper deck gunports yesterday afternoon Druxey! 🙄
  7. The complete assembly. The lower ring is not pinned to the crown of the astrolabe base part.
  8. The retention plug cover installed over the pointer and the lower swivel and upper ring assembled (and pinned with copper wire).
  9. The pointer installed over the hub
  10. Hub reinstalled over the dowel
  11. The "fix" for the broken spigot or hub.
  12. Cover fitted. The gap will be filled with wood dough and will disappear when painted.
  13. The cavity filled with fifteen 1 cent pieces. There is a penned note on a piece of folded paper below the coins.
  14. Over the last two days I completed the clean up and dry fitting. Yesterday morning I did a test with the epoxy on two rafts to make sure it didn't dissolve the PLA/wood fibre material. Yesterday evening I glued the cover on the back and the hub or spigot back onto the face. The hub broke off in cleaning and fitting parts. As the hot printer nozzle lays and presses a layer of filament on top of a lower layer, the layer becomes a wee bit wider than one would hope for at mating surfaces, hole and hubs. So holes need to be opened up, flashes cleaned off, and hubs need similar treatment. I ended up with a slight interference fit between the pointer and hub, or so I thought, but turning the pointer might have twisted the hub a bit, weakening it. When I attempted to disassemble them the hub snapped clean off. I repaired this with a short piece of 1/4" wooden dowel and epoxy. I put a groove down the length of the dowel and filed a couple shallow notches in the hub matching hole so when the epoxy set the spigot hub to base assembly cannot spin. If I were making more of these there are a two things I'd change: Increase the fit tolerance for less cleanup and increase the embossed numbers to a bolder font. Below is the result, dry fitted, in stages.
  15. Capstan certainly seems to be complicated looking beast.
  16. The print finished after 17 hours and 5 minutes So much for the 15hr 3min estimate. Here you see the finish front. Needs a bit of cleaning up. Dimensions are body 6" diameter x 5/8" thick and 7" tall over the crown Next is the back or rear that faced the raft and glass. As this was hidden it could not be "ironed" as the front or top face was. This will need a bit more sanding and cleaning. And that is why I print four layers instead of two. For those unfamiliar you can see the "supports" in the ballast coin cavity and on the crown. As these were steps up in the build process those layers needed supports provided under them or the machine would have been printing in mid air!
  17. more likely an early quadrant.
  18. Now I am anxiously awaiting it to complete the top layers and hub or spigot for the pointer. Tomorrow I will clean it up with various sand papers, and check the fit of the pointer, lower swivel and ballast back cover plate.... and the coins. I will slip a note on top of the coins for the person that some day might open it up.
  19. My print settings are mostly default. I change the wall thickness to 4 layers, and 20% infill (Grid pattern). This means the inside is not hollow nor is it solid. Saves on material, cost and time. Print temperature is 210°C, bed temperature is 60°C. I always use a build raft and reduce the margin to 10mm outside the object. I use a raft because somehow that always sticks to the bed and the object always sticks to it. If I don't use a raft a successful print is a complete gamble. Here you can see the base printed, the raft is under it, on top of the glass bed. You can also see the 20% infill. At the top is a shamrock shaped outline. It is filled with a "support" that I will remove when cleaning up. The support is what the top face prints over to close this rear access pocket. This is where the coins will go.
  20. My 3D printer is a JGAURORA A5 as seen below. If interested you can google it and see the specs for the unit. I have the option to connect it directly to my computer but I choose to use a Thumb Drive (USB Stick)
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