AON
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Ras I love the bulldog clip planking clamp! Alan -
All I can wonder is... how do you hide mistakes at that scale?
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When making my spritsail and spritsail topsail yards I was wondering somewhat the same thing. I discovered these sails were mainly used when running (wind from behind), and their existence depended on the era. My build straddled the time period of having a spritsail topsail and not having it. At first I couldn't see the use of my spritsail topsail as the spritsail would surely have stolen all the wind from it... but then when I did a mock up I realized the angle of the bowsprit allowed the spritsail topsail to be set just above the spritsail so it would catch a breeze. The martingale, dolphin striker, and bobstay was a concern for me... but when my build was first commissioned there was no dolphin striker. Then I could imagine the spritsail topsail being slipped in just above all this for a period, until they realized it just wasn't worth the effort. Progress seems to move slowly sometimes.
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sounds like a case for a need of a quantity of wood filler as I cannot imagine my cutting a straight enough line to result in a good fit
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First thing is the block seems to be installed upside down. Imagine there is a sheave in it and the rope runs from the bottom of the sheave (at the bottom of the block) where the hole is towards the top of the sheave and away towards the other block, or sheave, or whatever it may run to. This would mean your hook may be on the wrong end of the block. Having it wrap naturally may improve the way it lays and also the way it looks. Then to tame your line, you might brush it with a solution of water and white glue and then train it to lay more naturally as they always seem to have a mind of their own unless under some weight.
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I will have to go open my grandfather's tool chest and check his folding rule!
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Do you part your hair on the left, right, or centre... or comb it front to back? I believe it was the same with the rake of the mast... the master or cap'n adjusted it to how they preferred it to be.
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Okay. Was the last little bit about sun, beach, rum for me? I am happy for you. Really. No, really. Not jealous at all. On my way back downstairs and try to figure out how to deal with my leaky basement. But you enjoy your sun, beach, and rum.
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Membership expiring? How can I tell?
AON replied to Srodbro's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
You can go to the NRG website from this forum, up at the very top second drop down menu from the right is "NRG Home Page" -
Thank you for the kind words regarding my two side builds: the plank river raft and the Aleut hunting kayak. The raft was published in the last NRJ (Nautical Research Journal) and the kayak will hopefully be published in the fall issue. Well, it has been a long time but... nope, I haven't finished the darned frames. Yesterday I did complete the making and installing of the forward straight frames from the cant frames back to midships (C) FWD, approaching the dead flat. As those either side of the dead flat are a similar but thicker frame I will do them last to fill in the gap. Tomorrow I begin installing the aft half and hope to have them done by... sometime. So y'all can go back to sleep now.
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Shipman and Weflack. I agree with the free use as described. I also like Lee's but sometimes find it difficult to digest. Barkeater. Petersson is a fine book for illustrations that I seem to gravitate to myself and it makes things easier to follow. The issue is does ObviousNewbie care to rig his model in such a way.... or does he want to simply secure the yard to the mast... or both? If it is both, then I believe a pin, be it metal or wood, will do the job of securing it in place, then follow with proper rigging. If ObviousNewbie is interested in seeing illustrations by Petersson please contact me via PM. Alan
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Bonjour Francis, Vous habitez dans une des plus belles régions de France et votre modèle est assez sympa (même si la photo doit être tournée). Bien joué. Bienvenue sur le forum (google translate is a wonderful thing)
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Joachim and Bob, I've seen a number of different sketches depicting how the breeching rope was secured at the cascabel. The earlier cannons did not have the "ring" or "thimble" above the "button" or "ball". The later versions did, an improvement as the breeching rope required a more positive means of being secured. One method I've seen prior to the ring was to wrap the breeching rope around one turn starting from below. Where they cross was whipped (bound together with a smaller sacrificial line that could be cut free if required) to keep the wrap tight and not slip off. Another version was to pass the breeching rope over top and short splice a similar sized rope on either side so it passed below and trap it in the reduced neck portion of the cascable. Once the design was improved with the addition of the ring or thimble the breeching rope simply passed through it.
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I've thought about it. Even researched Youtube videos to see how to cover it in fibreglass. Then I pictured myself rolling over and the words "I've fall'n and I can't get up" came to mind. But you go for it!
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I have finally corrected a major error with this build. I kept telling people at the time I could not see the royal cypher, so I enlarged it and then painted it yellow ochre. I had printed a new one piece barrel to replace my two piece. At one of our local club meetings one member had mentioned I should paint this new barrel with several light coats of Beauty Tone Flat Black Enamel Acrylic paint.. I did this back in February 2019 and it looked great, except I still couldn't see the cypher. He suggested highlighting it and any other proud items with a light brushing of a hint of a lighter shade of black (smokey grey). I have procrastinated.... because I couldn't see it. Well I have had cataract surgery in both eyes this August and September and now... I CAN SEE IT! Today I touched up the royal cypher and other proud items, removed the old barrel (tossed it in the trash), and mounted the new barrel. Here are the results. You can see the difference.
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- 9 pound naval cannon
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Good afternoon Druxey! An article by Eric Schrade in the 2010 May/June issue of Ships in Scale, augmented with articles by David Zimmerly in the February/March and April/May 1983 issues of the Small Boat Journal. I am presently 3D printing my mounting device for the Kayak.
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Well, I just today finished my one hole 16'-9" Aleutian hunting Baidarkas (Kayak) frame build. Photo posted below for your amusement. I will be writing this one up and submitting it for publication in the Nautical Research Journal. My River Raft (above) was published in the issue that came out today. Then I'll be back full time on my Billy Ruffian.
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Are there any decent clamps?
AON replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Not to be funny... I find all clamps are very good until you need that special one... like right now. -
Good evening Simon and welcome aboard! Alan O'Neill
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You've put a lot more effort into your drawings then I have! Should be fewer surprises. BZ
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Dead flat stations
AON replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I cannot say for your build. -
Dead flat stations
AON replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
on both! -
Dead flat stations
AON replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Possibly an online search of the National Maritime Museum (NMM - RMG) in Greenwich might reveal a sloop framing drawing. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html#!cbrowse -
Dead flat stations
AON replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Don I find what Jagger describes as very interesting. He describes R+S (Room and space) to include 1/2" air gap between frames for a 70 guns ship. For my build (74 gun launched in 1786) there were 3 drawings available. 1) Body, Half Breadth and Sheer Plans, 2) Disposition of Frames, and 3) Deck Plans. The space between frames per the contract (at the keel) at dead flat was 1/4". It increased as you moved towards the stem and stern post and the frames became narrower. My #1 Plan showed 9 frames each side of dead flat up to about the 2nd water line. Nothing was shown above that. Thank goodness I had plan #2 available. Your half breadth plan shows all the station lines, one half is from the stern to dead flat and the other from the stem to dead flat. Your build is on top of the full plan. Does the other view reveal anything regarding frames at and about the dead flat station? I do not know anything about a sloop construction so cannot offer anything to help you. Possibly a search for other sloops on the forum might reveal more.
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