AON
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Black Oxized means they have gone thru a nitride heat treatment process. Likely surface hardened to keep their gripping edge and nicer to look at. A very good purchase. -
I've decided to follow REE'S Plate VIII as it provides more detail. (I am told REE's and STEEL's plates are identical) I'll need to turn down some 3/4" dowelling to make a 0.641 inch diameter sanding stick (including the thickness of the sand paper). This will also necessitate the sanding of a slight radius pocket in the inside of both bollard frames. Meanwhile I shaped and fitted the mating starboard hawse piece. I feel I may not post again until I have them all nearer to done as posting each step would be repetitive and might be boring. And spacer chocks continue to be installed back aft at the rate of one or two sets a day...
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Spent an hour and a bit this morning working on the rough shaping of the next hawse piece on the port side. Dry fitted it and it looks darn good to me. I want to glue and pin the bollard frames in place but need to sand a radius seat on the head of the stem post (stem and apron pieces) that the bowsprit will rest on while I have clear access. I need to determine the diameter of the bowsprit at this location. Looked in Ree's Naval Architecture Plate VIII which is a diagram of masts, yards, and the bowsprit, and it measures 3'-5". Measured (for comparison) on Ree's Plates I and IV and I get 3 ft and 2'-9". Checked NMM plan J7795 (ZAZ6781) which is a diagram of the main mast and bowsprit for a 74 gun ship and it measures 2'-9". Measured the space between bollard timbers (which is the thickness of the stem post) at the head and it measures 2'-6". Now I need to make a decision.... I need to check what size dowels I have to make a sanding stick.
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After a busy day today I managed an hour in the shop after supper and got the starboard bollard timber done and both are now dry fitted. I am quite happy with these. Marked up the hawse pieces to start shaping but thought I'd best leave any material removal until tomorrow when I am fresh.
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Starboard W2 frame installed. Port Bollard Timber dry fitted. 'nuff for today!
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Aft frames adjusted once again. Spacers continue to be installed. Work commences at the stem... Port side Frame W2 installed and Bollard Timbers being prepared.
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Was talcom powder mentioned?
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Thank you Druxey I will look at them again in the morning.
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First I need to thank all the people that suggested my frame(s) might need adjustment. It made me take a more critical look over the last little while and I found quite a few needed to go up or down a smidgen. Took quite a number of walk-aways before I committed to each one. So now it is done and the filler chocks are being made and installed near the timber heads. I needed a height gauge and stole the idea of Frankensteining one from someone else's build log (see photo below) and it works wonderfully on the outside. I find I am going to need to make something for the inside of the frames one day (soon I hope) and have been looking at the one in TFFM Volume one, and at my wood pile. I have also cut my forward cant frames # W2 and the Hawsepieces and Bollard Timbers that butt to it. They all need a little work before they get fitted. So while glued chocks are drying in place back aft I should be busy up forward.
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Good afternoon Kevin. I must say I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Watching your latest video you show that you use your caliper to scribe lines and then darken them with a pencil to highlight them. That is exactly how I have been marking the various/varying thicknesses (head and foot) on my aft cant frames! I thought I was the only one to do this.... now I am wondering if I learnt this from an earlier video of yours! Thank you for a wonderful series of how to videos.
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If I were doing it for real (full size) I'd likely use a short cutting of three strands and splice each end in normally like an eye splice. One of our local club members showed us that he makes an eye splice in his models he first makes a bevel cut in the end of his rope and glues it to the standing end, then rubbing/rolling the joint between his thumb and finger and when it drys it is a strong eye splice looking jointed rope. That might work for you. Try on a piece of scrap.
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A short splice would do it. Below are a couple plates that show a short splice or ... option B: seizing
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Found an excellent article on the internet describing how to use the draw plate to make treenails. As it is published on the WWW readily for anyone to find via Google I hope I am not breaking any rules by posting the link. https://issuu.com/msbjournal/docs/msbjournal-july-2010
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Interesting. Like anything else I imagine there'd be a point it would need to be replaced. Hope my wife doesn't read this!
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I believe the CG (centre of gravity) is low enough that this would not normally happen. So long as the men stood clear to the sides they would survive the recoil. With the camber of the deck and a calm sea everything helps the gun crew reposition the gun too early. They need to haul it back away from the gun port to have access to clean, swab, and reload. Then haul it back out to fire again in record time... back breaking work with ringing in their ears and smoke in their eyes. Then the normal condition is they would be on a tack, heeled over, and in rough seas... with someone firing back at them. Logically the breech rope is a large size to withstand the strain. The wheels are different sizes front to back to assist in range, compensate for the deck camber, and adjust the CG. This rope would be wrapped and seized until a better idea was implemented (the ring cast into the cannon to eliminate the need to seize the line)... sort of an ISO2000 concept... constant improvement.
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YES Aren't I the lucky one! Just took four frames off the port side and One is back on. Should have the others all back on tomorrow ... just in time for our meeting on Friday afternoon.
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Picked up a (ever so slightly) used draw plate from a wonderful member of our local club this morning. I am surprised by the heftiness/weight of this tiny plate and now appreciate the cost of a new plate! Just glued the last adjusted frame onto the starboard side and will start the port side later tonight.
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Thank you Richard. Reloaded the PDF's!
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- 9 pound naval cannon
- 3d cannon barrel
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They are getting affordable and print in Wood/PLA mix that is sandable and can be stained! That has got me thinking about parts for my build ... i.e. gun carriages? You need a clean stable enviroment so mine is on top of the low file cabinet in our study (fancy word for where we keep the computer). I decided on the JGAurora A5 as it has a good size heated bed and print height... good reviews and an active online forum for help.
- 125 replies
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- 1
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- 9 pound naval cannon
- 3d cannon barrel
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Done recovering from yet another eye injection, so having rested I've taken another critical look at the frames. Adjusted (lowered) the set mentioned by Paul and it made a big difference. I realized I had been focusing on the breadth placement as the top of the frames were cut a little bit longer than necessary. After measuring from the keel up to the chock split line (top of the lower futtock) it proved the frame should be dropped! So I learnt something else! Then I took this new knowledge and decided to lower two other frames a wee bit.... popped off more frames than I intended! Hope to have this back together properly with spacers by Friday for our next local club meeting.
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some updates! I purchased a 3D printer with the capability to print my cannon in one piece. I resized the insignia on my CAD model to the original proper size, converted the file to .stl, loaded it into the slicer program, loaded this "gcode" file into the printer and pushed print. (Don't I seem smart... it is all smoke and mirrors) 14 hours and 35 minutes later I had a cannon. I took it to our last club meeting and John, a fellow with years of painting model experience (with 1st place ribbons to prove it) suggested if I gave it two or three light spray paint coats of Beauty Tone Flat Black Enamel Acrylic paint it would eliminate the shininess, bring out the insignia and all my concerns would disappear. Here it is below with three light coats! 12 hour minimum drying time between coats as he recommended. I'll be taking it to our club meeting this Friday and then switching it out on by build. I've tried printing the cannon multiple times (tweaking slicer settings) at 1:64 scale for my other build (HMS Bellerophon) with no success. So I've ordered smaller extrusion nozzles (0.2 and 0.3 mm versus the 0.4 mm nominal size provided with the machine) in the hopes one will do the job at the reduced scale. They have been shipped from China. Now I wait.
- 125 replies
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- 8
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- 9 pound naval cannon
- 3d cannon barrel
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Regarding safer, easier methods of blackening metals... This is a link to the blog page of our local club website. scroll down to our 13th of January meeting and Ray describes what and how. https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com/blog Regarding fishing line for faux bolts. I do this also, using black monofilament. It comes in different diameters so you find one closest to your scale. It comes in a spool that will likely do your whole build. I did not invent this but learnt about it here on the forums. I cut off a length (about a foot), rough it up with sand paper so my yellow wood glue will hold (something to grip to), wipe the end and sides in the glue and insert the filament in the predrilled hole. Then I cut it off with scissors and let it dry. I go back and cut it flush with a scalpel. I've tried to remove a couple and it was impossible!
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LOS = Liver of Sulphur. What I have comes in small "rocks". You mix a very small amount in hot water. The water turns a shade of yellow. You drop your copper part into it and mix it around for a few seconds, take it out, rinse it off to stop the reaction and your done. The part must be cleaned in soapy water, and rinsed off, and then washed off in (rubbing) alcohol to remove all dirt, grim, oil (finger marks) first. After the cleaning you handle the part with cleaned tweezers so as not to recontaminate it. There are safer, easier, liquid products that will oxidize the copper. But the item must still be cleaned.
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I've seen some sketches showing hooks on the ends of two breech ropes engaged in the rings of eye bolts on the cheeks of the carriage. I imagine this was followed by the single line wrapped around the cascable because in my mind the thrust and impact would eventually distort and tear the ring apart. If you chose to use the hook method I would mouse the hook so it doesn't jump off.
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Mark Regarding your thought of perhaps no seizing at all.... I can tell you from my experience that seizing a line or whipping was common practice and would not be given a second thought. The thought of the sight of an unkempt ragged cut line drove my kind nuts. In my full time job as a mechanical designer I once stood at our company display booth at a technical show in Chicago and backspliced a barrier rope because the sight of it drove me nuts. I would put good money down on it. They would want everything tiddley and squared away.
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