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Posted

Started about 7 years ago  and lost confidence after completing the hull. Restarted a couple of weeks ago .

Here are some of the early build photos Have added cannons and top deck and I am proceeding with the bow and stern .After studying Chapman's Drawing I decided to reposition the Unicorn behind the Prow.. Will post some more updated photos shortly Mike 

 

 

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Posted

Mike,

 

Welcome to the Unicorn club!

 

Your planking looks very good.

 

Are you going to sand the rear most bulkhead to make it more curved. If you look at the plan view of the stern there is quite a pronounced curve. I failed to do this and then had big problems fitting the gallery pieces. It is worth considering adding a stern piece. Have a look at the discussion in landlubber mike's log.

 

Out of interest was it something on the kit that caused you to stop? I had a lengthy break in construction due to insufficient deck planking, plus only 16 wheels being supplied for the canon. :( Still - found a way through in the end. :D

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

Posted

Hi Mike,

 

I'm glad you have your build log up and running. Your work on the Unicorn's planking looks very nice indeed.

 

I second Ian's advise on the stern curvature. I glued additional thin wood sheet to the forward side of the stern bulkhead so I would have more material to file off to form the curve and not weaken the rear quarter deck bulwarks where they join the rear bulkhead.

 

I look forward to viewing your current progress

Posted (edited)

Hi Mike, great start on your Unicorn.  Ian and John have great build logs on here with a lot of information.  I started the Unicorn, which I decided to convert to her sister ship, the Lyme.  I'm taking a break from it while I get a little more experience on the Pegasus (especially since I plan on scratching a lot of the Lyme), but will turn back to it in the near future.  In any event, welcome to the club :)

 

I agree on moving the figurehead.  It's a bit tricky using the kit piece as it's fairly narrow, and I think more narrow than the stem in some areas.  I still think it can be done though.  Take a look at my log for where I originally thought I would install the figurehead (now I'm planning on using a lion as the figurehead which is what the Lyme used).

Edited by Landlubber Mike

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted

Thanks fellas for the nice comments. :) To Ian I have already fitted the rear part of the gallery and the port side gallery with no real problems .(photo coming)

I stopped because I lost confidence in my rigging of the cannons :angry:. and then had a long break before I decided to continue. To Mike I did not like the thickness of the prow so I planked it both sides to hide the Craftwood I also fitted a plank on the base of the keel. It did take a bit of fitting for the figurehead (Photo Coming) and now I have to work  out how to apply the head timbers.I just have to get my camera working.

 

Mike

Posted

Mike,

 

The Corel idea of the head works in this kit is bizarre to put it mildly. To get a better idea of how the head timbers go together I suggest having  a look at Dan Vadas' Vulture log. It gives an excellent step by step approach with some very clear photos. The start of the head works is <here> on page 63 of his log and continues to page 68.

 

Dan's log is my main "go to" being chock full of useful info. For example the latter part of the log has very detailed description of the construction of the masting and rigging. 

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

Posted

I Have to fit the other gallery and then I will be working on the prowl. I think I will fit the Bowsprit first as that seems

to be a Bit fiddly , if the head timbers are in . The supplier of my kit included helpful build notes and one was from Keith Julier

with notes and photos. and he suggested to do the Bowsprit first.

Mike

Posted

Bow and figurehead look much better than the kit approach.  Well done!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted

I do like it a lot! I take it that the kit comes with gun port hinges?

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

Posted

Thanks Mike :) I have just spent most of this afternoon studying yours and Ian's posts concerning the bowsprit position instead of building. Really like the effort

you two have put in also Johnb40. I have plans and drawings all over the place. To S  Colman no the kit did not have them but I have seen a couple of photos of the Unicorn with them added and like the look Not sure if I can fit them in. J parsley When II finish the other Gallery window I will put more pics up.

 

Mike

Posted

Mike,

 

Your repositioned figurehead is a great improvement. Excellent. Wish I had thought of doing that! :)

 

One other thing we discussed in this area is that the kit plans show two sets of gammoning on the bowsprit. Only one set is required on a ship of this size which is easier to do.

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

Posted

Hi Ian I noticed that on the Chapman drawing . It will also make it easier with the position of the figure head. Thanks for the drawings for the bow sprit :) in your

discussions with Mike

 

Mike

Posted

Mike,

 

I cut a square hole in each bulkhead with its leading edge 8mm from the front of the bulkhead. I then filed a taper on the underside of the cathead beam as per the instructions and glued it on top of the deck planking. Two issues:-

 

1) I didn't taper them enough. I used the supplied supports as guide to filing - their angle is wrong. The result is the catheads are just about horizontal rather then pointing upwards a few degrees.

2) As per the instructions I drilled 4 holes in each cathead - there should be six.

 

The whole of my Unicorn's headworks make me cringe - it was all done some years ago before I found MSW and other on line sources of ship info, :( 

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

Posted

Hi Ian , Another problem :( Did your kit come with the Catheads cut to length because I can only find 5x5 mm walnut in 40 cm lengths.

The number 54 only says 5x7 mm .I may have to check with my local hobby shop or add a couple of strips of 5x1 walnut board. Also It looks like I have to measure off the full size plan to get the right length.

 

Mike

Posted

Mike,

 

The material for the catheads was supplied in a single length of 5x5 walnut in my kit. It also had a split in it which fortunately I was able to work around. I took the length from the plan. My kit had the 1974 issue 1 plans which had no front elevation so judging the angle of the catheads was difficult. From the colour of your kit box (blue and grey) your's should have the later versions of the plans which includes a front elevation, so it should be easier to judge. BTW, my early kit box was black and grey. 

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

Posted

I have just sent you a post about your log :). I wish now that I had read it before doing the rear galley windows . I have fitted them and the side windows. :angry:. I have just destroyed the bottom decoration bits and will do a similar fitting as John did for the top on his. I think that the wooden windows of the earlier kits were wider and higher. Any way we will see what happens!!!

Mike

Posted

I tried to fit the lower decorative piece to the side windows . It ain't gonna happen :angry:. So I did an Ian Job and destroyed them to use the crown centre in a piece I have made myself. Do you think it looks right .It will be painted flat grey the same as the top with the centre piece gold and I Have put it in place temporally to give you an idea . Any thoughts.

 

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Posted

Mike,

 

Having fitted carved up lower castings on my galleries I belatedly came to the conclusion I would have been better leaving them off - as other guys have done. They simply don't fit and look clumsy. 

 

I managed to pop one of the awkward canon. To get it back I mounted the carriage on the end of a kebab stick with something like blue tack between the carriage sides. A touch of superglue on the bottom of each wheel then jiggled the carriage through the gun port. I then pressed the carriage down with a lollipop stick to get it to bond. The kebab stick and superglue could then be removed freeing up the space for the barrel to be refitted. Any marks left by the blue tack were well hidden. My big fear was that I would lose control of the carriage and it would end up sticking itself somewhere inappropriate and totally inaccessible. Fortunately I avoided that horror. :) 

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

Posted (edited)

Mike,

 

Welcome to Corel's castings of the Unicorn's rear galleries......We at club Unicorn have all been there mate. The main problem is that the angle of the stern bulkhead and the angle at where the side and rear gallery castings meet are not even close. This results in the side galleries pointing downwards at the front. I added thickness to that rear bulkhead and curved it a bit more whilst filing the angle (off vertical) to try and get the side galleries to run parallel with the planking. I got it to a compromise position which I could live with. I had to move on,or I would still be messing with it to this day.

 

I got concerned  about loose cannons when working on the gun deck. I ended up securing the guns to the deck with glue and running a 1/16" x 5/16" hard brass rod through the carriage and deck. I then used thick CA glue to secure the barrels to the carriage and then glued thin black cardboard strips over the trunnions. When all was cured I tried to move the guns with a fair bit of force and they stayed put. You can't see the rod when looking at the guns in place.

Edited by JohnB40
Posted

It looks a little out of place to me. I think it's the flat edge on top of the carving that just dose not seem right. Other than that everything else looks great. I had the same problem popping a gun on my Rattlesnake. As Ian M describes it is a little bit of keyhole surgery. Good luck.

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

Posted

Thanks for the comments I wasn't really happy :(. So I have done some modifications I deleted the metal crown and reshaped the Base which I am much more happier :). I will stain the blocks the same as the hull. Is this better? :huh: Ian when you opened up the waist what did you use to cut the deck? I have been considering your idea and will go the same way as you ,But probably no real life stove. Its a beauty. :D

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