Double Boat by antanasp - Master Korabel - Scale 1: 72, Russian fleet double boat 1736-1737

[antanasp]

Hello. This is my first post on MSW. Thank's for You comments, understunding and help.

The DB kit is maded in Russia by company Master Korabel(Milanija). They have a line of 7 kits and in this year will appear 2 new kits. This is the 3-rd kit that I build from this company. I dont now if show 2 other builds? If it is interesting, I can open new build logs. Now some words about the kit and content. Kit features: All hull planking and details are laser cut, the marked bevels on frame, a special hull design that compensates the material deformation, detailed photo instruction and drawings, patterns and cloth for the sail sewing and many  others. The Master Korabel make a big research work for this model. The model will be 300 mm lenght, 76 mm width and 260 mm height. And now the kit content:

Oars

Other elements

 

 

Edited July 22, 2015 by antanasp

[antanasp]

Continue:

 

This is all that are included in the kit. Sorry for my english.

 

[Ian B]

great unusual boat--- good luck with the build

[antanasp]

Thank's Ian B .

  The kit I build "as is" with now improvements. Maybe add or change a little the colors in some places. At the first removed all the hull parts from plates and marked them. Of course the building instrukcion has all plates drawings with marks, but its better for me mark byself. Kits from Master Korabel not need many instruments, but need to work slowly, precizical and as  described in manual. Very helpfull are the photomanual. The hull has very interesting construction  and the some frames contains 4 parts.

  This is the hull parts:

 

 

[thibaultron]

Nice looking boat and kit. Looking forward to your build. Is there any history on the boat? Country, year, use? Are the instructions in Russian, English, both, or other?

[antanasp]

Nice looking boat and kit. Looking forward to your build. Is there any history on the boat? Country, year, use? Are the instructions in Russian, English, both, or other?

Thank's thibaultron .

Instructions are available: photomanual - Russian and Lithuanian; instrukcions - Russian come with kit and Lithuanian, English or France are available for downloading. Later will be added Germany and Poland. Maybe more...

 

Brief historical note.

Double boat –in archive documents was named as double boat. It’s a small sail and raw war ship designed for operations in the rivers, coastal lakes and near the coast line. Double boats appeared in 30th of the XVIII century and were predecessors of gunboats, besides their principal “battling” function they also served as

advice boats and ran a mission of landing forces and transportation. Particularly outstanding event was connected with large-scale construction of such class of ships for developing the Dnepr Fleet at time of the war between Russia and Turkey in 1735—1739. The reports from Collegium Admiralties to the Senate of Sept.06, 1736 inform: “...named as double boats are made like standard boats for war ships but as compared to the last have double size”. Drawing for the new ship was made by Oberin intendant R. Broun. Based on those drawings a sample half-model was constructed which is now stored in the Central Naval Museum. Double boats under this project were lateen rigged on two masts. Artillery armament included six 2 pound falconets mounted onto wrought cradles. Double boats were aimed for support of the Russian military forces operating along the Dnepr and its coastal lake coast lines. In case of necessity theycould transport up to fifty armed people and two regimental cannons. On June 19, 1736 the Senate ordered to build 500 double boats in Bryansk dockyards. As far as the boats were constructed the same were driven down the Dnepr to the military operations area and were actively involved in operations: gunned enemy lines, transported forces.

   During navigation in 1737-1739 double boats actively participated in military operations conducted by Field Marshall Minich. On July 02, 1737 Russian forces took by storm Ochakov fortress which should become the Dnepr Fleet harbor. On Sept. 3, 1737 Naum Akimovich Senyavin was appointed as the Fleet Commander.

Toward June 1737 in Bryansk there were built 202 double boats. As early as on October 30, 1737 the Dnepr Fleet ships participated in holding off an attack of 40 thousands’ Turkish army on Ochakov supported by twelve galleys. Later double boats constantly fired on Turkish army lines near Ochakov, one of them under

the command of warrant officer Chikhachiov attacked by fire during the whole day so intensively that its falconet cradles broke to pieces. As far as summer of year 1738 near Ochakov and Kinburn there were already 254 double boats.

   Plague epidemic broken out in May 1738 overset plans of belligerent parties and on the 2nd of September the Russian army command decided to evacuate military reservations of Ochakov and Kinburn fortresses and to destroy fortification works of the same. In the middle of September the Dnepr fleet of 347 ships with Russian

army onboard arrived to Khortitsa island and the Samara river estuary. Here the ships were stationed until conclusion of peace between Turkey and Russia on September 18, 1739.

In Russia there were several occasions when similar kind of boats was constructed. Three double boats were built in 1733—1737 for the Second Kamchatka Expedition led by Vitus Bering. In Tobolsk the boat named “Tobol” was built in 1733 for the team of D. Ovtsyn lieutenant which aimed to reach the Ob river estuary and arrive to the Yenisei river estuary. In Yakutsk the boat named «Yakutsk» was constructed (it was laid down in spring of 1734 and set afloat in spring of 1735) for the team of V. Pronchischev lieutenant for study of the Lena river and preparing description of Siberia coastline up to the Yenisei estuary. In Okhotsk the boat named «Nadezhda» (set afloat in 1737) was build for the team of V. Walton lieutenant dealing with search of pathways to Japan. The first two boats were build based on the drawings sent from Saint-Petersburg, had 24 oars, the hull length of 21.48 m and the width of 5.48 m. The third one was three-masts double boat with gaff rig, had the length of 24.5 m, the width of about 6 m, the depth of hold of 1.8 m and was built by foremen Rogachov and Kuzmin A.

[thibaultron]

Thanks!

[antanasp]

In the next step I checked the hull construction. I attached all parts together and get the hull. Any glue at this step not used. All fit very well, not needed any sanding to connect parts together. The hull geometry seems are good too. I am very satisfied... And the result photos:

 

[antanasp]

SpyGlass,  I like shaped planking idea too . Next will be St.Gabriel and Jolie. Later Polock and Phoenix... But, the life is very interesting...   

[antanasp]

All are checked and let's begin. At the first glue the stand. It's very simple. But later I'll change it to something else.

 

 

Now wery important step. Some frames has engraved lines an must be very carefuly sanded. I did it, but leave about 0,1 mm not sanded. I'll do it before planking, if it will be needed. And this is the sanded frames:

 

 

[antanasp]

Now the time to begin gluing.   At first I try some frames. All go very well. And in a short time I has the result.

 

 

Next glue parts 15-1 and 15-2 together. This is the keel. It fit in the plase very well, without any sanding.

 

 

And glued top parts of the frames. It fits without any problems too.

 

 

Now the time to plase frames 2 and 3. And keel parts 15A, 15B. Later  frames 13, 14 and keel part 15C.

 

 

That's all today .

 

 

[antanasp]

Today continue working on the hull. At the first sanding the parts 16L,16R,17L,17R,18L,18R,19L and 19R. How many to sand show the laser marks on the parts. For this I use my homemade disk sander. The parts 20 and 21 not nedeed to sand. The parts 16,17 and 20 are glued at the bow, parts 18, 19 and 21 at the aft.

 

 

Then this parts is drying, I removed parts from the plate MK0201-0216. This is deck (3 parts), transom frame and some other.

The deck parts has the planking imitation. The marking is maded using laser and look good.

 

 

I not now the english name of this part .

 

 

Glued transom and main deck. The deck fits very well. I must very fine sand only in to places. Bow and aft of the deck. After 4 hours remowed clamps from the deck.

 

 

Glued bow and aft bulkheads. And at least this side  parts. This parts are glued only in 2 places. At the keel in the bow and to transom frame. To the other frames they are not glued.

 

 

So. The week is very short, but I am satisfied. The hull is partialy glued. Maybe the next week I'll do the planking...

 

 

 

[antanasp]

This week I planking the hull. At first marked all planks on the plate. It is very important to do. If I miss the left and right side, they not fit properly and the gaps will apear. And at the time used only one left and one right planks. Then glued, removed the next. But before the planking, I used the other plate and removed some parts foe the keel and transom. And glued it's in the place.

 

 

And now the first plank. I check and bend it using the hot water. And glued in the place. At the first glued the plank at the bow and middle of hull. The plank properly fixed. About one hour later glued the plank at the aft of the hull.

 

 

And the right plank.

 

 

And result.

 

 

[SGraham]

Antanasp, This seems like a high quality kit. Your photography is beautiful too. Thanks for taking the time to give us such nice and thorough pictures of your build. 

 

Steve

[antanasp]

Antanasp, This seems like a high quality kit. Your photography is beautiful too. Thanks for taking the time to give us such nice and thorough pictures of your build. 

 

Steve

 

 Thank You Steve. Yes, the quality is very hight. Guys from the Master-Korabel are the quality fanatics. I can only say, that most of the builds from Master-Korabel kits by beginners, are much better and historic more true, then many of the scratch builds... And the prices!.. There are very good...

  So. I understand that I have a big problem. I make decision to change a little some  colors of model. Some parts will be dark or black. But I forget to  paint the top parts of the frames. They are from plywood and will be visible. And the plywood look's not very well...

  Now the painting will be not easy! I use the black ink for this. It took about 4 hours, but the result is not very bad... The easy sanding delete the some small black dots from the deck.

 

 

  The other problem is horizontal playwood plank in the middle of frame top parts. I sanded it. The color now is white, not brown, but playwood after oil will be visible very well. Maybe I'll  cut a strip from one  layer of the playwood and glue on this part?..

 

[donrobinson]

Very interesting build with lots of different methods of building. I am really enjoying this build, thanks for sharing.

 Looking forward to seeing more.

 

Don

[antanasp]

Thank You Don

[SGraham]

I like the look of the black ink. That was some intricate painting. The front edge of the horizontal plank looks nice with a cap on it.

 

Steve

[antanasp]

Thank You Steve.

   Checked the hull again. Sanded  some frames and removed from plate first plank for left and right sides. They are cut using laser and the adhesion of the brown edges are very bad. Sanded the edges of the planks. Later - checking, bending and again checking. Many times. Then the plank fit properly, leave it to dry and working on the second plank. For bending I used my "water box" . I buy this mashine on Ebay auction only for 1€ plus shipping. Now I can set the temperature of the water as I want for a long time. This is very usefull toy..

  So, for the bending I use the hot water( 60 degrees of celsius) and amati bending tool. Why not only water? Because it is more easy... Amati bending tool leave the marks on the plank. So I put the plank in to the hot water for a 3 minutes and then bend, the marks after the plank is dried, disapear...   Some notes. About 90 percent of the photos are in macro... Sometimes they looks terrible, but I need to do it, because want to see my usually hardly visible bugs .

  Now the planks fits in the place very easy. I don't need to use any clamps, nails and etc.. Only my fingers. At first glued the plank at the bow, then at the middle. And the aft. One plank - 6 minutes. The checking and bending - much more time...

  Two planks is glued.

 

 

Regards, Antanas

 

[antanasp]

Hi all. The hull planking continued. The last planks from this plate. And the result.

 

 

  And the last planks. They are on the other plate. And they are wider and longer than required. The builder must to fit the planks in to the place himself. This is not very difficult. Some pieces of the sandpaper help me . And the final... Sanded the all hull using sandpaper grit 80. Finally sanding will be made later.  

 

 This photo shows difference between sanded and not sanded sides of the hull.

 

 

  Planks at the aft of the hull are cutted.

 

 

Regards, Antanas

 

 

[antanasp]

   Will continue. I thought to do or not the hull nailing. Of course this is not quite correct nailing, but better than doing nothing at all. I'll try and see what was going to be. But first I need to make wooden nails. I will tried the simple technology. The nails will be done from bamboo rods. In the Aluminum plate i make 1.0 and 0.8 mm diameter holes. Then I put the plate in a vise. Bamboo rotating rod is pushed through the hole and so I get a nail. For this I preparing as much as possible thin bamboo rods. Nails must be a 0.8 mm thick. Taking into account the scale should be about 0.4 mm, but then they just will not be visible. 0.8 will be a compromise.

   I take a bamboo rod and cut to 20 mm length tips. Then the tips split lengthwise in half. And the half again in half. Embedded in the Proxxon drill. Tapered end. Using 16,000 rpm speed.

 

 

   I try the solution. It does not go through a few steps. It should be 0.8 mm thick at once. Here's the appearance of such nails blanks. From the hull planking plate make 2 the short planks. Glue planks to a piece of plywood. And perform several experiments on nailing. Like result of the right and left. On the Left obtained using black ink soaked in nail 5 minutes. It seems to me very well, but look on the hull through brightly. Therefore, I choose the right option.

 

 

   Quickly prepare Bamboo pieces and can start the production of wooden nails. Even more nails, it turns out one problem. Bamboo should be soft. These are the only white slugs marked in red arrow. Brown slugs marked green arrow is too hard and inappropriate. But it's not a problem. Least produces half the required quantities.

 

 

Regards,  Antanas

 

[antanasp]

All strange situations with my connection to MSW are solved and I returned to my build. And so - nails. The process are simple and well known. Because the hull has only one layer of planks, I can place the nails only on the frames. Marked and drilled holes. Then glue wooden nails. Cut and sand. The final sanding will be later.
 

 

Regards,  Antanas

[cog]

Very nice work. The tree nails look very good on the model.

 

Cheers

[antanasp]

Thanks cog.

Now I want to do the planks connecting imitation. I think that the 9 meter (30') planks fully correspond to reality. After marking, ad to some places tree nails. Then I made the cuts. Not very deep. After planks sanding the cuts practically are not visible. Everything will be seen when the hull will be covered by oil.

 

 

And removed from the veneer plate keel details. They hide plywood. Affix them.

 

 

Since this is the first boat Master Korabel set, there are still minor incompleteness, or not quite logical solutions. For example the keel at the bow not have some of this parts. Also in the stern. Where fixed rudder. But this very easy to cut it from the veneer plate himself. And I did it.

 

 

Regards,  Antanas

 

 

[antanasp]

   Now he time to glue the bow and aft decks. I make a small mistake. Stringers have some small angle. It is not very good. But sandpaper help me... But in future I will have more problems with this I'll think. The decks fit very well.

 

 

  Early I was painted the planks. This planks will be placed on the stringer at the hull outside. The short planks are placed in the aft of the hull. For painting, as usually, used the black ink. Bend and glued. For this I spent a lot of time. This is not very easy. The plank are very narrow and must be placed very precise. Chm... Maybe will be good...
 

 

   Now very difficult moment... The decks color not satisfied me. They looks very bright and the shine as the sun. After covered by the oil, they will become more yellow. And it is not very good. I doubt very much, but decided to make the easy aging.
   Maybe it will be very good, but maybe very bad! I not know... There You can see the difference. In reality seems be good, but in photos...

 

 

   And the main tools used in this build. Other show later.

 

 

Regards,  Antanas

 

 

 

 

[cog]

You didn't need a lot of high tech tools to make an impressive build ... well done Antanas

[antanasp]

   I have a lot of tools, but You are right Carl. In this build i don't need most of them. Only some Proxxon drill machine.

So, continued. First sanded greetings and hatches. This very easy. And glued in to the places.

 

 

   And the veneer strip. This is material for waterway. Cut and glued. The stringer plywood edge looks terrible. Cut the two strips from veneer and glued on the edge. Now it looks better.

 

 

   Now the time to place on the deck the vertical planks for seats. But at first must attach to them the cleats. Later it will be very difficult. Sanded the planks and cleats. From the pins made the steel sticks for cleats. Blackening them using the gas torch. And attach to the plank.

 

 

Then glued both planks to the deck.

 

 

Regards,  Antanas

[antanasp]

  Beginning mounting the seats. The first seat is from one piece but have some curvature. The stringers are not strong horizontal and I have a little trouble. It solves. Glued knees.
 

 

   From steel pins made the rings. In the photo You can see original from brass and my from steel. At this time I not have the blackening liquid and must made this parts from steel. But I like the parts from steel more then from brass. For me they looks better...

 

 

    Sanded the seats and footrests. And glued the first couple in to the place. Make the simple templates from the cardboard. One for seats and one for footrests. The seat ends are cut halfway. Every couple of them need to be adapted because of differences in their lengths.
 

 

   Glued the middle seat. She are made from one part and have four knees. Continue using templates for other seats. And result.

 

 

Regards,  Antanas

 

[antanasp]

What an excellent job you are making.

 

The steel pins are very clever - my only oncern with using steel on models rather than brass or copper is that any dampness causes rust staining - but I would love to know how you made the  pins anyway !

 

Regards

Steve

 

  Thanks Steve. I use for my models not only steel pins. Nails, wire, tin and etc.. It is especially well are the nails. The technology is very simple. Initially, annealed metal using a gas burner. I use Proxxon gas burner. This is a very good tool. Continue to produce the required details. Just as a blacksmith. Only I use small tools. Then parts again annealed using a gas burner. They look very well. They do not need any chemical blackening.

 

 

   I don't have any problems with rust. After annealing of metal, details become sufficiently resistant. In the photo You can see the my post carriage model. You can see many steel parts. And after 3 years no any rust. But models must always be kept in display cases. They protect against dust and moisture. I always do it. Otherwise, kills the model himself.

 

 

Regards,  Antanas

[antanasp]

Thanks Steve.

   So, the next step. Make the stairs. Not found there must glue one part. Photo instruction also did not help. I had myself to think logically where it should be. And to the stairs add the seat.

 

   Prepared the next group of details. And not found one part needed for the transom. Hmm... Guys from Master Korabel leave the plywood opened too. So, I have material and made this part from veneer. No problems. Made and glued. Delete not needed top parts of top timbers.

 

 

   Then prepared and glued to the transom standard and seat. Also painted using the black ink the aft planksheer and glued too.

 

   And the difficult place. Must glue the detail on the transom edge to hide the plywood. It is from veneer. I'll  have to bent it at the very big angle. Of course - curved. Painted using the black ink and glued.

 

 

   Add the helmsman's feet supports.

 

 

   From the pins made the steel sticks for cleats. Blackening them using the gas torch. And attached the cleats to the aft deck.
Also made rings and this is all at this step.
 

 

Regards,  Antanas