HMS Bounty by bryanc - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:48

[bryanc]

Blue!

 

Well it was the blue after all. On reflection an all-black Bounty would have been just too unrealistic (although I have got a photo of a black Bounty)! I'm quite pleased with the decision overall.

 

As you can see there has been considerable other work done as well, although the guidance for it was taken from other forum users build logs, and not the instructions, which have reached the point where the manual editor gave up, and could no longer be bothered, in fact, even stating; "...the more laborious and delicate work has now been done, after photo 48 (out of 112!) it is a case of fashioning and fitting the parts into place... using photos, parts list and plans...". There is less than a page worth of instructions left, whilst there have been nearly 4 up to this point! Yet there is all the deck detail, not to mention masts and rigging - and sails (!) still ahead!

 

 

A case in point is the head rails, where no guidance was offered, and I think I needed it as my efforts leaves a lot to be desired. Overall however I'm not too displeased with the work thus far, a few mistakes obviously; the gun ports are far too big, I can fashion them a little smaller, but I'll wait until the cannon themselves are complete, and make my decision when I see them in situ. The brass ornamental piece on the stern facia fell off! Well, I actually pulled it off, it had become a little detached at one end, and trying to fix it revealed none of it was too secure. I don't like the idea, but I think it may have to be pinned as well as glued. The observant will notice the brass letters "B" and the "O" of "Bounty" are missing. I still have the "B", but the "O" is somewhere on the beige carpet beneath my work table! I have searched, and recovered lots of brass pins, and the like, but sadly no "O"! Hopefully it will turn up before the next hoovering takes place!

 

 

One of my criticisms of the kit has been the somewhat economic supply of materials in the kit. This is illustrated by the lack of the second, lower "rubbing lander" on the port side. I simply haven't got enough of the 2 x 2 sapelia wood left. Hopefully I'll be able to scrape something together from other bits!

 

 

Now onto another challenge; the rudder assembly, something else I've always found challenging. I've already successfully drilled the hole to accommodate the tiller shaft; hopefully the rest of the rudder will be as accommodating! Then I can get on with the more enjoyable deck furniture!

 

Bryan

Edited October 10, 2015 by bryanc

[thomaslambo]

Looking good Bryan...nice choice with the blue   

 

And my compliments on your choice of chair...if I'm not mistaken, is that a Herman Miller

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

"RUBBING BANDS"

 

It took me a few hour at looking at my AL Endeavour to know what they were talking about! Must be in the Spanish/Italian/English translation or whatever!

You have done a good job. Keep it up.

Greg

Edited October 11, 2015 by Greg the peg leg sailor

[bryanc]

Looking good Bryan...nice choice with the blue   

 

And my compliments on your choice of chair...if I'm not mistaken, is that a Herman Miller

 

Thanks Thomas, and yes the chair is a Herman Miller, the Aeron I believe; a wonderful piece of engineering. Given to me by my son when he moved to live in Bangkok!

[rcmdrvr]

I like the paint job.  What did you use for the "gold" painting on the stern.  I couldn't find a gold that worked so I turned to yellow....which I also do not like.  Might consider stripping.

[bryanc]

I like the paint job.  What did you use for the "gold" painting on the stern.  I couldn't find a gold that worked so I turned to yellow....which I also do not like.  Might consider stripping.

 

Hi Don, Thanks, and yes the "gold" painting is very effective and I've actually used in small doses elsewhere where brass was required. I don't know how easily you'd get hold of it, but its one of the Admiralty Paints range; AP9125W Gold / Brass. I got it from here

[bryanc]

Deck detail almost complete

 

Most of the "official" deck furniture and fittings are now in place, although as ever, there's lots of tidying up and touching up to be done. Several items were more difficult than anticipated, but to balance things, the items I thought would be difficult, weren't!

 

 

The wheel assembly for instance was really tricky to build, or at least to hold steady while it was glued. In contrast I was surprised how easily I managed the complicated looking steering rope assembly (which was originally very much tighter than it now is, I suppose there is some stretching takes place post assembly). The cannon were also surprisingly tricky, and the rope tackle thereof always is! After much heart searching and head scratching I've left the cannon in their original turned brass state. I'm the first to say they should be gunmetal black, but that brass finish is just too good looking!

 

 

The sliding hatch "manhole" covers were easier than anticipated, as were the main hatch "slats", considering there isn't a word of instruction (in common with almost everything on the deck). With the anchor winch I cheated a little; I didn't file and sand the round sides into flats. I know I would have been unable to resist using the Dremel to help, and that would undoubtedly have overdone things. The anchors themselves lack the instructed "brass" metalwork. I struggle with that a little, and have simply resorted to the black cartridge paper trick, which I've always thought looks really effective anyway. I've been quite creative with the anchor ropes (in more ways than one), but if it looks good, it must be good!

 

 

 

Another little bit of creativity was used below decks; in reality the anchor ropes were stored below decks either on racks or carefully hung. This was to ensure they dried properly and thus discourage rot. I elected to build racks for the ropes to be spread on. Note the two ropes both disappear into the darkness forward. In reality they were secured to the mast more often than not. Mine won't be (far too much work for something that won't even be seen. I anticipate enough problems getting the foremast to fit, much less tie things to it). There's a bit of a story regarding the rope; I elected to use ordinary household string. (The kit provided one is, I believe, much too thick, and there's not enough of it). So I carefully soaked the string in sections, in an eggcup, with a stain and water mix. When dry I was pleased to note the "string" really did look like seasoned rope. Feeling really smug I began to fit it. It was only then I realised the string had swollen and was twice its original thickness and far too thick to be of use. In the end I used the original string and dabbed it with the stain once it was in place!

 

 

Note the door to the brig at the far right ;-)

 

I am currently struggling (and I mean struggling) with the launch which sits in the middle of the deck. It really is tricky. There is a temptation (which I may yet be unable to resist) to leave it out completely, but I do think it will add a great deal. I've elected to make it complete rather than be exposed on one side like the ship itself (as per the instructions). I believe that is unnecessary and one step too far.

 

Assuming I am successful, and both launch and ships jolly boat do end up residing on the deck, then it's the masts!

 

Yet another challenge!

 

Bryan

 

[bryanc]

Boats fitted

 

As you can see I managed to get both the ships' launch and "jolly boat" fitted, and am pleased I did. Mind you the launch was virtually sculptured from filler! They have still got to be rigged completely, but at least are there.

 

 

 

Now onto the masts (and bowsprite); I must here pay thanks to others build log contributers; as builders of this kit will be aware, the instuctions here are non existant, and while the (actual size) plans are good, they are not easy to follow. However the contributions by other users are, not for the first time, helping me out enormously. Thanks to you all - especially in this case - LA Don, for those photos which explain so much.

 

Bryan

 

[Captain Al]

Your looking great Bryan.  I'm quite impressed with your creativity.  That's where the fun lies.

 

Did you just put some black paint on your 1/2 pounders and the pump handles?  I left all my brass as shiny as could be and now kind of wish I had taken the time to darken certain parts up.  But of course from the start my sole objective has been to put this thing together and make it look like a ship.

 

I notice (it may only be the angle of photography) that you put the holes for deadeye chains in the exact center of the channels.  I did the same following the plans to the letter.  I then found that being so far inboard the shrouds were probably going to rub against the rails.  So I have filled these holes (with the tips of toothpicks) and sawn and filed grooves into the edges of the channels into which the narrowest part of the chain linkage will fit.  Then I'm covering up the slots with a strip of 2mm brass.  I would have used wood strip but its easier to curve the brass and I'd already curved the corners of the channels (as perhaps you have).  I don't know if I've updated my log to show some pix of these changes.  If not, I will soon.

 

Feel free to ask about the construction of the masts as I've worked through and around the A.L. plans in conjunction with Peterson's book on rigging and McKays Anatomy book.  In conjunction with my buddy Boyd (thomaslambo) and a lot of help from Danny V., I think we've got the idea down pretty well now.

[bryanc]

Thanks Al, thats all very much appreciated.

 

Yes I do love employing the odd creative addition or amendment, as you say, thats where the fun lies. And yes, whereas I left the cannon basic brass because it looks so good (if not historically accurate!), I did touch up the 1/2 pounders with black paint, just to add a bit of interest. The pump handles to.

 

The holes in the channels for the deadeye handles are in fact off centre with an outside bias, but then again, not done too well, so your tip re. filing the odd askew holes with toothpick and redoing them may well prove useful. The groove filing will also. The whole deadeye fitting usually taxes me a little!

 

Mast construction; yes I will refer back to you if I may, as the AL plans, while good are sometimes a bit over my head. Funnily enough, I've spent several hours of headscratching today. As I said I appreciated very much LA Dons photographs and I was talking about crosstrees etc as much as anything. Of course I didn't realise he was being "creative" with his, and what I assumed was kit supplied, he'd obviously created. I couldn't understand why I couldn't find a centre crosstree for each of the three lower assemblies, I couldn't have lost all three surely? Of course I hadn't, they were never supplied, and the intention is to use a 7mm long "spreader" made from 3 x 3. I (eventually) worked this out from the plans and parts list, and later confirmed it from your photos (which I should have looked at in the first place)! Obviously it makes tying all the shrouds infinitely easier.

 

So, I've no doubt I will be getting back to you, and probably quite soon!

 

Thanks again.

 

 

[Captain Al]

LOL Bryan.  That 3rd cross tree (or lack thereof) cost me about 2 weeks and a lot of head scratching.  Once you find that little spreader piece in the parts list or on the plans it all comes very clear.  Another part of interest will be the 'cheeks.'  It seems A.L. wants you to put on two layers -- one being the inner layer called the 'cheek stiffener' and the other being the cheeks themselves.  After fiddling around with the two pieces and trying to make them look like the plans show them (with the inner one protruding out beyond the profile of the outer one) I decided to forego the inner one.  I just filed the port and starboard sides of the mast flat and put the cheeks on.  Here's a tip for what its worth.....because you'll be angling the platform supporting trees about 6 or 7 degrees, its easier to glue them on before putting the cheeks under them.  That way you can just angle the cheeks to sit flush underneath the trees.  If you put the cheeks on first you'll need to be sure that two independent pieces (each cheek) is set exactly at the same height on the mast and at exactly the same angle.  I just thought that was tougher to do than the other way around.

[bryanc]

Knightheads!?

 

Yes Al, the parts list rescued me on this occasion, confirmed by your photos. I've also now got the chocks in place (which I probably wouldn't even have noticed but for our exchange). I haven't however continued and got the cheeks positioned, because I thought I'd get the bowsprit finished and in position before continuing with the masts.

 

As I was dry fitting it immediately before gluing it in place, I realised it would foul the figurehead, not having quite enough height to clear it. A quick glance at all the other users photos I've downloaded as building aids shows no one else has included anything in that position. I then researched in "The Anatomy of..." and a knighthead assembly is clearly shown several times.

 

 

There's no mention of it in the instructions (what a surprise) and the knighthead uprights appear in the parts list but I can't find them, but I suddenly noticed they are featured in the background in one of the photos! But there's only one tiny reference to an upright on one of the plans, and nothing anywhere else! Not very helpful!

 

It’s all very odd, but I'm going to go ahead and bash it, I haven't got any choice really, but I'd be interested in others opinions / comments.

 

Bryan

 

[thomaslambo]

Hi Bryan,

 

I haven’t installed the Bowsprit knightheads yet (pre-cut parts 275) shown in picture book photo 54 (very hard to see).

 

So here's my best guess 

 

The assembly is included in what I call the “AL Summary” instructions for steps 48 – 75 (which basically says find the parts, look at the picture book/plan sheets and give it your best shot) 

 

Also, from what I can see the plan sheet appears to show the Bowsprit resting on/running through parts 275 (the parts are on laser cut sheet 22810-10).  

 

Here is the cut sheet with parts 275 near the bottom

 

 

Edited November 30, 2015 by thomaslambo

[Captain Al]

Boyd is correct.  The knightheads are on one of the laser cut sheets but are just hard to find.  As far as I can tell the bowsprit inboard half is held by these two pieces and then further back held by a hole in another part (how's that for a precise description?).  I put the bowsprit together but I've held off installing it for one big reason:  its going to make your model another foot long and that means when you are doing a lot of other things still to come you'll be turning the model around a lot.  You better either have a very large workbench or put some padding on the bowsprit tip.  So my knightheads are tucked away as well in a little baggie.  I would also suggest that you put the bowsprit on first and hold it in place somehow and then put the knightheads on.  If you notice, they do not form a complete circle surround the bowsprit (at least mine don't).  If you place them on the deck too close to each other the bowsprit won't fit through, and too far apart it will have a big gap.  If you put them on around the sprit in place you can put them snug up against the dowel.  Your problem is not as bad as the one I had which was that the inboard end didn't get into the hole straight on. That part, whatever it is, must have been put on just a degree askew.  I had to file the hole larger on the port side.

 

This may also help you.  One of the first things I did before actually starting to build was to pop all laser cut parts out and put a pieces of blue painters tape on each one and put the part number on it.  If there were multiples with the same part number I'd make sure I had them all and then wrap them in the tape and label them.  All these laser cut parts then went into a zip lock bag numbered 1-100, 101-200 etc.  It has made finding them when needed very easy.  In 2 years of working with them I only lost one.  And coincidentally I think it was one of the knightheads.  Having the other one helped me make a duplicate from the scrap sheets.  I never throw those away.

[bryanc]

Thanks so much guys!

 

Between you both you have cleared that one up, and I'm grateful. However parts 275 simply no longer exist in my box. Strangely every other part on that sheet do (many of which of course are now assembled in position), but the sheet itself has long since disintegrated and those two parts with it I assume. I do patiently number each part in pencil (where possible), and keep them safe, but those have gone to that great lost part heaven! I to keep the more useful pieces of scrap, which come in very handy!

 

I have already designed and constructed (but not yet finished off) my custom knighthead assembly, and its based on the "open ended" "The Anatomy of..." original rather than the AL (almost fully) enclosed version. I think it being so enclosed may cause real problems when it comes to finally fitting the bowsprit, whereas mine simply "rests" on the assembly and as such is much more adaptable! Photo below, but I think the assembly will actually be put further into the woodwork, nearer the prow, and I estimate it will give about 3 to 4mm clearance of the figurehead which seems about right.

 

 

Al, I do take your point re. permanently fixing the bowsprit at this stage, so I will take your advice and not fix it in position just yet, but go back to the masts. I have precious little space to work, and may well have real problems turning the thing, so will take your advice and put the bowsprit safely away until a more appropriate fitting time!

 

Thanks again guys!

 

Bryan

 

[Mirabell61]

lovely build Bryan,

 

the ship Looks great, there are so many things to discover...

 

Nils

[bryanc]

Thanks Nils, yes it's a voyage of discovery in so many ways ;-)

[cobra1951]

Hi

    You're doing a great job on your build IMHO. I am going to be starting a build of the AL Bounty myself soon and one of the questions i have before i start is having painted the keel and frames what type of glue did you use as i suspect that normal wood glue needs to be applied to bare wood to make a strong joint.

I am planing on using Titebond on most of it, but also normal pva where a bit more time is needed to adjust things, and CA on the brass parts.

cheers

[bryanc]

Hi

    You're doing a great job on your build IMHO. I am going to be starting a build of the AL Bounty myself soon and one of the questions i have before i start is having painted the keel and frames what type of glue did you use as i suspect that normal wood glue needs to be applied to bare wood to make a strong joint.

I am planing on using Titebond on most of it, but also normal pva where a bit more time is needed to adjust things, and CA on the brass parts.

cheers

 

Hi, apologies for the age its taken to reply, you'll see the reason why below. I use normal PVA almost exclusively. I had a bad experience "overdosing" on "superglue", and now use it very sparingly and only when I have to. Good luck with the build, she's a lovely model but oh those instructions, or lack of them...

[bryanc]

I'm back!

There may be one or two of you who wondered why my build log stopped so abruptly; no big mystery really, just a chain of events that meant a prolonged absence. I was obliged to move house, which took a lot longer than it should have, and then had to wait a ridiculous time for my broadband to be restored.

 

However I cannot pretend that the delay ended there. I could have restarted the build but was stricken with a sort of ship-building "block". Maybe it was because the next obvious step was the shrouds :-( and I couldn't face it. Finding myself stuck in this malaise, I decided to take the easy and "quick gratification" option; I've started another build. A kit I was given by my son at Christmas, and that has been tempting me for some time; the HMS Victory Cross Section. There is a link to that build below.

Edited February 14, 2016 by bryanc

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi Bryanc,

Just found your site, will be following with interest.

 

Regards,

 

Sam

 

[JOHN BLAKELY]

 

I have misplaced both manuals for Artesania HMS. BOUNTY. How can I get replacements?

[JOHN BLAKELY]

Trying to get replacement  both photo & instruction manuals for Artesania HMS BOUNTY.

[LyleK1]

30 minutes ago, JOHN BLAKELY said:

Trying to get replacement  both photo & instruction manuals for Artesania HMS BOUNTY.

Have you tried contacting them?

I understand they are back in business.

[TonyChap]

On 3/30/2021 at 8:54 PM, JOHN BLAKELY said:

Trying to get replacement  both photo & instruction manuals for Artesania HMS BOUNTY.

These are available for download https://artesanialatina.net/en/modelcrafts-elite/486-wooden-model-ship-kit-hms-bounty.html

[Aj73]

Hi

 

Opened up the 1:48 scale HMS Bounty and unfortunately missing the colored instruction booklet and parts list. Anyone  know how to get a copy? Before I have to contact them all the way in Spain and wait to get no reply or weeks to get one?

 

Thank you

Aj

Canada